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Swiss 2002Tii

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Swiss 2002Tii last won the day on September 20 2018

Swiss 2002Tii had the most liked content!

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About Swiss 2002Tii

  • Birthday 07/03/1958

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Switzerland
  • Interests
    BMW 2002s, hiking, target shooting

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  1. Dion, I had exactly this problem recently. My car was bogging down on start from stop in 1st gear, sluggish in 2nd gear until it had some revs. Then days later I noticed that I had a few drops of gas on the ground behind my rear passenger wheel. Years ago I installed a high flow fuel filter between the fuel tank and the pump, as the pump has no input filter. I recently had other issues that seemed fuel related, but again proved Mike S.'s father-in-law's maxim to be correct: 90% of your fuel problems are in your ignition. As part of that T-shooting, I pulled the paper filter insert and replaced it with high-flow mesh filter. That fuel filter has a single barb on the 12mm fitting, so it turned out that the hose was snug, but not perfect, so the slight leak was letting air into the fuel line. I pulled the filter and added a layer of heat shrink over the barb, problem solved. Now pulling strong in 1st and 2nd gears. I add my most recent 123ignition curve FYI. Timing Curve 10.2019 FAQ.xlsx (Filter insert is actually shown reversed from correct installation.)
  2. Thanks Saaron, I looked, but did not scroll far enough. @Steve, if you'd like to move this to Off-Topic?
  3. Definitely big enough to be a deer. We have Roebuck and Hirsch (small deer-sized Elk) in our neighborhood. Small bone was cut with a saw, so scavenged somewhere.
  4. Not '02 related, I thought we had an "Off Topic" folder, but this tops the "weird factor" for anything I've ever found in an old car! Anyway, I started losing coolant on my 2005 530i. I looked under the hood and I could see a puddle of coolant in the pan. I could also see a clump of yellow "something", that I assumed was a piece of foam that was meant to separate hoses, but had fallen out. Today I got the car up on jacks and dropped the pan. Luckily, it seems that it is just a leaking O-ring on the temp sensor. When I dropped the pan, this yellow thing rolled out. I picked it up and it looked like a piece of hard plastic with many points and surfaces. Again, I thought it must separate hoses in close proximity. Then I looked at it closer... It's a vertebrae and another cut bone from sumthin'! I'm guessing a marten (European weasel known for gnawing on car electrics) had a taste for roasted bone marrow and left it in his favorite car engine compartment for a quick convection oven warm-up, but my coolant leak ruined his dinner. Ed, you've carved up your fair share of game, want to give a guess?
  5. Hi #3, There is a trick to saving inputs, it gave me fits too. See my attached write-up. Tom 123ignition setup Tom.docx
  6. I moved the flare nuts from the puller to the holder for quick use. I originally had to grind about 1mm from the edge of the flare nuts to get them to fit through the pulley holes. I put it through the holes and rotate it slightly to get the flare nuts to grab the edge of the holes. Having a slot for them to slide and lock to grab the edge would be an improvement, and make keeping the puller in position much easier. Another mod to be done!
  7. Success! After making a copy of Paul's handy-dandy pulley-pinning tool (works like a champ). I put everything back together. Set TDC, reset 123ignition dizzy @TDC, made sure the button in the cap was fully extended, aligned the KF pulley for TDC, adjusted the valves since I had the cover off. New NGK BP6ES plugs installed. The FunMobile fired right up! Nice steady cold idle. Many thanks to all for your guidance. What was it all about? Maybe thermal failure of my 123 dizzy or coil originally, then fouled plugs once I got my spark back? I think I'll keep my timing gun and mech dizzy in the trunk for a while!🙄 My M6 studs for the valve cover are a bit beat up. The studs are about 2" long with 3/4"of threads on each end, blank in the middle. W&N has a straight threaded rod as a replacement. I could make those from threaded rod I already have. Are these hardened steel, harder than I would find at the hardware store? Question: Does anybody have a source for the original studs with blank centers?
  8. Stephers izz da winnah! Put an impact wrench on that nut and it spun right off! In the absence of the correct tool, I went down several suggested paths... I was going to sneak this hard, strong coat hanger cut down to fit the keyway, but once the pulley is seated, there is no gap. I also thought along the lines of irdave. "Is it possible to stick you finger into one of the holes where the injector line comes out and 'lock' the crank with your finger (or anything small and soft enough) and unscrew the nut? Although I don't know if that would work, I was prepared to take the back end off of the pump to lock it while I turned the nut. In the end, the right tool did the trick in two seconds! (Even at an extreme angle - I didn't have to pull my radiator! Yeah! And irdave, a friend of mine says: "Sometimes Life just brings you what you need!"... The local tool supply had an unbelievable offer on a STACK of DeWalt tools that lock together on a rolling trolley - Impact wrench, drill, hammer drill, and that grinder I've been hankerin' for. I just bought a small farm in Portugal that needs a lot of work, so now I am armed and dangerous! Thanks All for all of your help. Like I said, I just slid into second base, I still have to get home! I will try to start the car tomorrow, now that I can re-seat my pulley. I believe the consensus that this is electrical may be right. That's next. Linkage is good, and correctly aligned to answer another question. If the gods smile on me, it will simply be fouled plugs! Geez! Time to clean up the bench!🙄😄
  9. Excellent idea Ray, and I had a middle-of-the-night thought that my one-and-only woodruff key might be sitting in the belt recess, just waiting to drop into the engine! (if it hasn't already!)
  10. 😀😄 Brilliant advice on every level! I do try not to get frustrated... it's just another problem to solve... If I didn't like doing it, I wouldn't own or work on a 48-year-old car!
  11. No Loctite on the nut, and as the shaft started to turn with the nut, hopefully not a lot of torque on it. No impact tools like that in my arsenal, but I might be able to borrow one. Not my daily driver, so I can organize tools. With the radiator removed, it looks like I might have almost a straight shot with an impact driver. I "need" an impact driver anyway, so...
  12. Good advice Andrew, but then I can't bump the motor with the starter while holding the wrench. I will cover the battery during this exercise! It's either going to work after a bump, or not at all.
  13. Well, irdave (and others) was right on... the NGK BP5ES plugs were well and truly fouled. I replaced these with new NGK BP6ES. I wanted to start from the beginning in terms of setup, so I pulled the valve cover to verify true TDC on the timing chain as well as the crank pulley. And yep, yesterday I had installed the KF pulley 180 degrees out using only the pulley mark for reference. Lesson learned! I pulled the pulley using my home-made puller. And then, just as I thought I was sliding safe into second base, comes the aggravating part.... I popped the pulley to realign for TDC. I had everything set up, rotated the pump to line up the woodruff key, and slipped the pulley back on, TDC lined up nicely. As I tightened down on the pulley nut I expected the pulley to want to rotate; I had a 1/4"extension in the hole to stop the rotation, but, no rotation. The woodruff key must have pushed rearwards when I slipped the pulley on. I now have the pulley nut somewhat tight, but the pump shaft is rotating with it as I try to remove the nut. GRRRR! I don't have enough room to tap a screw extractor in to bite the steel in the small hole in the pump shaft. I tried wedging against the bit while turning the nut, but I don't get any "bite" on the hard shaft steel. So, dead in the water until I have the energy to open the cooling system and pull my radiator! GRRRR! Before I do that, I'm thinking I will try to put the wrench on the nut and bump the engine rotation a bit to see if it will work itself off. I have to ensure fingers are clear, and no accidental touches on the battery! Suggestions welcome!
  14. I'll double-check today, but I pulled nice, clean mocha-brown NGK BP5ES plugs when I adjusted valves a few weeks ago. I did pull a plug during the spark search, and it was not fouled. I thought about that yesterday, but ran out of time. I'll check that today. I will go over the ignition system again, as I agree that it is really exceptional for the KF to just stop working in an instant like that. Now that I have time and the proper tools, I can give it a thorough check. On the fuel delivery, I have pulled #3, and #1 as well, and no fuel is coming through the delivery valve, so it seems a systemic problem. Has anybody observed how much fuel actually comes through the delivery valve after a few engine cycles? Thinking about it, if the fuel line is "full", the amount of fuel being pushed towards the injector for any given stroke must be pretty small. On the other hand, if the flow is tiny, it would take many cycles of the motor to "fill" those lines. That has not been my experience when breaking the fuel system. I have my original KF pump on hand. (I bought a pump and had it shipped to Wes along with replacement injectors for cleaning/calibration, so I have a second full set, known good, albeit not cleaned and tested.) I will go through the same exercise of pulling and cleaning the delivery valves, suction valves, and ports, then install it (depending on ignition tests). Looking everything over, it looks like I can do this (dismount the WUR) without breaking the cooling system.
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