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Swiss 2002Tii

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About Swiss 2002Tii

  • Birthday 07/03/1958

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  1. I had my '72 Inka Tii at our local Sunday Morning Oldtimer Meeting last week. The Funmobile met his brother! The weather was great, and perhaps as many as a 1,000 Oldtimers overflowed the grounds into three surrounding parking areas! This was later, when things were thinning out. That's a nice Derby NK1800 in the foreground. I had heard about this car from my sometimes mechanic. He did most of the work putting this one together mechanically, but the paint, carpet, and (leather!!) interior went out to specialist shops, and no expense was spared! Even the door cards are leather. I must apologize in advance, as I forgot to shoot the VIN plate. Hopefully I will get a chance to drive the car in coming weeks, and will follow up. The paint is superb, as he had the color coat sanded, and then clear-coated. All of the brightwork is either new or re-chromed. I knew you would want to see the carbs, so I did a couple of close-ups. I'll try to get more info on any special cam or carb setup. My friend said it took him forever to polish that Heidegger valve cover. This is really a gorgeous car, and pretty peppy from what my friend tells me. He is currently giving the same treatment to a Turbo for the same owner!
  2. Installed Harry's improved door brake on the driver's side. Adjusted the window travel. Out with the old: In with the new: Works just dandy!
  3. I recently bought a new one from BTS for considerably less than rogerstii: https://www.bts-autoteile.de/index.php/de/shop/1502-2002-turbo2013-04-23-12-02-57/kraftstoffanlage-tank2013-04-23-12-02-572013-04-23-12-02-57_/results,11-20 You can use Google Chrome to translate the whole web page.
  4. Looks like quite a find! Drive the heck out of it, and enjoy the forum. Welcome!
  5. Did we answer you question? Wes Ingram does a good job, and the turn-around can be quick if he has several pumps in hand, as he likes to do them in batches. Results were good, but no meaningful test curves.
  6. It's too bad that Kugelfischer never set out a standard test in their manual, else we could chase rebuilders to follow it. I spent a lot of money to get a pump reconditioned, shipped, import duties paid, etc. It added at least $500 to the cost compared to getting it done in the US (that's just the price of entry for living in a country like a National Park). The result was good, as it has performed very well, but I sure would have liked to have had an output curve as Ted has shared in the past. I went ahead and ordered the kit ($100, free shipping, even to Switzerland, what a deal!) I'm looking forward to taking that rascal apart and seeing how the innards play together.
  7. Ted might not agree that "it's as simple as that", but as Paul says, and per Wes Ingram, the pump is on one hand bullet-proof, on the other like a Swiss watch. They take them apart, clean them, blast the exterior surfaces,and anodize the hardware, but they don't really touch the innards. They measure fuel output for each of four throttle positions @ x,xxx RPMs over fixed periods of time (or revolutions) and adjust the verboten screw for fuel flow. But there is just one screw, and four throttle positions, so the adjustment is set for a "range" of output. Perhaps a shop like Precision(?) actually does a more detailed test of fuel flow at multiple fixed RPMs over time at each of the four throttle positions to better document the flow over the arc of different throttle/load/RPM situations, but unless they mill the cone to get a specific response at different throttle settings, "it is what it is". It would be worth it (to me) to pay a shop to confirm that if they would. I tried four - two in Europe and two in the US; none would. I am a guppy in this big Sea of Kugelfisch, but logic tells me that if the pump is clean and the suction valves are clean, the pump can be relied upon to perform as designed. Therefore, one of the big determinants would be that the injectors are opening within a tight tolerance of their intended setting of 35 bar (~500PSI). It would be worth it (to me) to pay a shop to confirm that output over load/RPM vs Time, but most of them don't do it. They (mostly) all do test and adjust the injectors, and I think that is key, and relatively cheap. Last year was a litany of catastrophic failure modes that I blamed on the pump, but in retrospect, I have to chalk most of it up to me using too thin a wire on the fuel pump (thereby starving the pump of current when it warmed up and lost efficiency), and a couple of other things that confused the failure mode. By the time I figured all of that out, my new, calibrated pump was in place, and it was relatively easy and predictable to set up. I now have a spare (my old, used) pump on my shelf, and I am tempted to order one of these gasket kits, dust off Rob Siegel's "What I Learned Pulling the Head Off the Kugelfischer Pump" article and give it a go. I think it would be an educational experience, but I'll wait for the winter non-driving season!.
  8. Geee-ee! That's a handsome stable of horses ya got there, Barney!
  9. Terrific cut-away drawing of the system Jim! That's a good placement idea. I am going to add a pressure gauge sensor; this is a good location. And it looks like you polished the top of the tuna can? Nice!
  10. Hi Roman, That pump will require barbs at both ends. You want something with nipples (8mm inlet , 6mm output), and it helps if they include the electrical hardware, as you may have an old connector that is hard to mate up to. Search on BMW p/n 16121107414 and you'll find plenty. The Bosch pump is the "real deal" https://www.mister-auto.ch/fr/pompe-a-carburant/bosch/0-580-464-070/#product-item-characteristics, but I think these other pumps are also good. (I get EU sources because my IP address is here, but you'll likely get domestic hits.) They mostly have 3 bar output, or 42PSI. That Summit pump at 30PSI would work, but it's operating at the top of its output, and if they are 10% off their spec, you're under pressurized. I have tested my spare pumps by shooting some WD-40 into them and letting them spin very briefly just to confirm they were not frozen. You could use kerosene or turpentine if you wanted to verify the flow rate. I think it's supposed to be just under 1 liter (85ml?) in 30 seconds. These pumps have a smaller diameter compared to the original, so you will need a piece of 1/8" rubber to wrap around it. I have used rubber placemats, and most recently a section of heavy sound isolation material from a sound-proofing project. I have my pressure gauge installed between the filter next to the radiator and the input to the Kugelfischer Pump dual banjo fitting. (The gauge is face down in this picture.) Here are a couple of good guides from a great Tii blog: Fuel Filter Upgrade 2002Tii.pdfFuel Pump Installation.pdfFuel Pump Restoration.pdf
  11. Sorry Roman, not to hijack your thread, but you raise a good question on different configurations! Nope, no inlet port on my air intake, just the breather hose! and here you can see the line from filler to floor outlet.
  12. Displays voltage too. https://www.banggood.com/12V-4_2A-Dual-USB-Charger-Socket-Voltage-Voltmeter-Led-Light-For-Car-Motorcycle-p-1174437.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
  13. Paul, was that line from the catch can to air intake a later mod for emissions? I don't have that on my EU '72 Tii, just a line from the filler neck to the trunk floor. The PO for mine also ordered the FSO (Fuel Smell Option). Working on that in a separate thread! 😋
  14. You don't want to cap that off, it connects the throttle body to the breather hose between the motor and the brake booster. If disconnected, you'll have all sorts of rough running devilry (ask me how I know). Somebody more expert than me could comment, but note that this bib sits behind the butterfly, so vacuum from there is likely helping to pull fuel in during cold start among other things, and it will cause a vacuum leak if left open on both the bib and the hose. The breather hose also has a plastic nipple inserted into it. https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/motorteile-kuehlung/bmw-1502-2002-turbo/katalogbild-11-24.html https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/breather-hose-for-2002-tii-11-24-02.html Perhaps your hose to the TB is missing, so this connection does not appear obvious. It's hard to see with the runners in place. A looong pair of hemostats is helpful for making this hose connection. And make the hose connection long enough to put some positive pressure between the two, as it can pop off unnoticed (again, ask me how I know!).


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