Jump to content

Swiss 2002Tii

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

373 Excellent

1 Follower

About Swiss 2002Tii

  • Birthday 07/03/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array
  • Interests Array

Recent Profile Visitors

2,893 profile views
  1. Thanks dlacey. Unfortunately, the PO cut the line in the middle when he pulled the pump. With that link I was able to get the part on the W&N site: https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/hose-for-520i-from-10-1975-up-you-need-1-for-1-car-11-055-12.html Ouch, with shipping that's an $80 part for me. I have a length of hard(ish) plastic hose; I think I will compare it for suitability. Coincidentally, I just clicked on the image of a pretty Atlantik(?) 02, and it turned out to be your Tii. As much as I love my iconic Inka, I think Atlantik and NachtBlau are fantastic colors for the 02 and E9 chassis. Pretty car, and those front quarter bumpers are too cool!😍
  2. conkitchen had this photo on his cool thread yesterday: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/259437-if-you-dont-know-what-this-is-you-should/ It reminded me that I need an oil line for my spare KF pump. I've searched threads and parts explosions on the RealOEM site, but I find no reference to part numbers for this oil line. It appears to be made of some special material, can anybody shed some light on this? Source for that hose material? Suitable equivalent? Where it appears in drawings?
  3. I swapped out a leaking warm-up regulator (Open Heart Surgery thread), which required draining the coolant. I had ordered these drain valves some time ago, and since I had it open, I installed this Fumoto drain valve on the radiator. I have these installed on the oil pan drains as well. I have the smaller M14 version that would fit the drain plug on the engine block, but the block's shape prevents using this rather large-bodied valve. As a clean-and-tidy tip, I used small, but strong neodymium magnets to hold sheets of plastic in place to guide the water over the frame under the radiator, and away from the subframe at the rear by the engine block drain. Spills were minimal, and cleanup was a lot easier.
  4. So, coming back to this leaking WUR, the epoxy held through the driving season last Summer/Fall. I noticed in late Fall that I was getting coolant spotting on the hoses and assemblies surrounding the warm-up regulator. No noticeable loss of coolant, so it was really a pin-hole leak. Hard to imagine, as big as these holes are. I had a chance to pull the WUR last weekend, and sure enough, the epoxy slipped off entirely in one piece. This WUR was from the KF Pump I sourced last year and sent to Wes Ingram for testing. Fortunately I have my original KF Pump and WUR. A few months ago I took the WUR into the kitchen (nobody home 😉) and tested the piston travel when heated. It only travelled about 7mm, so I adjusted it for 10mm travel. So what to do with the leaking WUR? I had originally thought to make a cap for the bottom to make the epoxy hold better. I think it was Ted Einspritz that suggested having the aluminum body welded, but it seems so fragile to me, I hesitate to do that. I re-thought the cap, and rather than using foil from a wine bottle, I thought that the bottom of a beer can had the right curve radius, and might work. I have POR-15 epoxy this time around, so I'm thinking that this could work for a longer-term solution. Since I have no time pressure, before I glom epoxy all over it again, I might try to find a specialist welder here in CH and send them photos to see if they could weld the aluminum. I saw something a while ago about low-temp aluminum welding - any experience folks?
  5. Caught up on some long-planned maintenance. Replaced the brake fluid, bled the brakes using a vacuum pump. I found that it was difficult to get a good pull with the vacuum pump, so I pulled the bleeder valves and wrapped them with Teflon tape for a better seal, and done! While I had the tail end up in the air, I decided to change the diff oil.
  6. Thanks Steve, you've answered a couple of niggling questions I had. I was told that the motor was rebuilt back in the '80's, the head might have been changed at that time. My block was well-worn; I don't know the spec numbers, but I must be on third oversize pistons at 90.15, up from the previous 89.97: My cleaned up E12 head: This "72 squarie" Is actually a nice 30-minute drive from my home. Under different circumstances, I would roll over there in my Tii just to tweak them, and put eyes on the motor number. Unfortunately, Switzerland just surpassed Italy for CV-19 cases on a per capita basis. If you folks are not aware of the situation in Italy, it is tragic, approaching 400 deaths per day, hospitals are overwhelmed. We are a week or two behind them, and folks are just now waking up to the situation. We are tucked in for the next few weeks, working from home. Stay well, all!
  7. My '72 Tii was manufactured on 4th May 1972. It is 11 units older than this one, so it must have been within a day.. Mine has the notch, no snorkel, and aluminum runners. My relay mount up front looks like it might be from the later chassis configuration (I don't have an explanation or history). Mine has a 72 E12 head, but it has the blocked hole for the fuel pump.
  8. !! I hadn't noticed! I assumed it was a German sale. I doubt this would pass MOT in my town. They have a specialist for each car type; he would spot these discrepancies. I am surprised this is for sale in CH! That VIN swap could get you a lot of trouble.
  9. Here's a puzzle, this Tii is claimed to be 11 production units younger than my '72 Tii, and seems to have started life as a "roundie": https://www.autoscout24.ch/de/d/bmw-2002-limousine-oldtimer?utm_campaign=lower_funnel_ch_de&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=criteo&vehid=7429725 My theory: Late in the production cycle in '75-76 BMW produced 1502 models that were a cost-reduced version. They can be picked up relatively cheaply in the EU. Based on the many non-Tii discrepancies in this chassis (e.g, square tail lights, late-model nose, snorkle, missing cut to view the timing ball, etc...) It looks like someone might have taken the Tii motor (and VIN plate?) from the earlier rusty Tii and installed them in a later car. Theories?
  10. The housing itself is identical for both plastic face and faux wood. You need either these plastic rings or the faux wood piece on the outside face to hold the glass, and the metal ring secures it from the inside. You can see how reflective the plastic surface can be with some polish and elbow grease. With dido rings
  11. Before you fit it back together, some polishing compound and a Dremel tool can raise a great shine on that heavily oxidized black plastic housing.
  12. And... Tii Tuning Tips.pdf Tii Tuning Article a.pdf Tii Tuning Article b.pdf Tii Pump and Dist Curves.pdf
  13. I'd say that blog could inspire a lot of future ITB projects!
  14. My pleasure! I find cameras often have difficulty capturing Turkis. It's highly variable depending on camera, light, clouds, etc. Wow! I just took a closer look at the engine build on your Bristol... A Tii/Alpina/M3 hybrid? WOW again! Do I see individual throttle bodies hiding under that Alpina air box? And modern individual coils from an S14 or later powering the plugs? Man, please let us know what this M10 puts out on a dyno when you're ready. The Bristol paint is looking great!
  15. What a great pair! Keep on keepin' on! Bristol... my first and one of my favorite colors!

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.