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Swiss 2002Tii

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About Swiss 2002Tii

  • Birthday 07/03/1958

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  1. Worth a watch: Most likely this gear has a worn spot...Funkylaneo shows you how to remove it. Order it here... https://www.odometergears.com/products/BMW/2002+Series+68-76/23
  2. BMW Kugelfischer pump_guide_v1.pdf Particularly on a Tii, it is important for the accelerator linkages to be tight. These ball-cup sockets can be replaced and that will tighten up your linkages. This makes a big difference in your idle and running being consistent. Old: New: You can find these from suppliers of parts for BMW, Alfa Romeo, Lancia, I think also VW, so it should be possible with a little research. The two short ones should be set to around 85mm, and the long one to 289mm. Operate the vertical throttle lever coming from your gas pedal and make sure nothing is binding, causing it to hang up. Same for the vertical intermediate throttle lever under the throttle body. there are a lot of hoses in that area that it can catch on. Since your car is cycling high-low at idle, you might be running lean. One experience I had was this little hose that tees off of the breather between the motor and air filter and connects to the throttle body popped off and made me crazy trying to find the cause. It's hard to see when the runners are in place. Above photos from a great resource: http://www.my2002tii.com/spring_2005/tiihoses.htm Here's a collection of info I collected when I was trouble-shooting my fuel system issues. My problem turned out to be that I used too thin wire to power the fuel pump. It starved the pump motor of current when it warmed up. Fuel System Trouble-Shooting.docx
  3. Oven cleaner works well to clean, brighten the surface. spray on, wait, and wipe off before it bubbles. Then treat with Penetrol per Ed Zinz.
  4. Many thanks Conserv for looking into this in detail. For sure, a third hand would be helpful for accurate measureents and photos. Having the 5" for comparison is very helpful. Conclusion seems to be a continued search for a second 5Jx13 is in the cards! I'm really motivated to put my hubcaps on for a classic look!
  5. Here is where the inch was added on mine. Looks to me like they made the offset way too deep. I will pull one out and make some measurements. Thanks for the wheel geometry lesson. Never looked into it before!
  6. I'm not 100% sure of the geometry, but I think had they not added the 1" and made that innermost well deeper, then the contact point would be at the second fold, not the innermost. Do you recall where yours made contact?
  7. Interesting... How much did you have to take off, approximately? To me, it looks like I would have to go through the wall of the wheel. Just did the full exposé in this thread...
  8. Again, apologies WPGB, but most likely this thread will surface for wheel topic searches, so it's probably useful content.... Conserv, to your question, I had a set of 4.5Jx13s extended towards the inside of the well as below: They turned out beautifully, and I was delighted, as I had sourced and cleaned up some really decent hubcaps. But then I tried to back out of the garage.... couldn't budge. Thought I had something in the way, thought I had mis-adjusted my emergency brake, checked everything. Tried again and got a nasty scraping feeling. It felt like it was being held at the front, so I threw my jack under the car and tried to spin a wheel... nuthin'! I pulled the front wheels and discovered that the wheel was binding against the caliper bolts. You can see how deep into the well that these scratches are. I started shimming... one washer, three washers, still binding. I added a nut that took me out to two cms; As you can see, I am running standard Tii hub and calipers. I thought about some judicious grinding, but I would be taking the caps of off of the hex screws in the calipers. I laid a straight edge across the wheel and measured from center and judged the contact point in the well. As far as I could reasonably measure, I would need something like 6 cms stand-off from the hub plate to clear the caliper! You can see how differently the alloy spoke wheel is shaped on the inside facing the caliper/hub. It's a much wider, rounded interior surface. So the theory is that if I extend a 5Jx13 by a half inch, I'll be good, and have the advantage that the fellow modifying the wheels will have a Tii on hand to test them on before we get too far down that road!
  9. Correct. Originally fitted on Ti and Tii models. I had a set of 4.5Jx13 wheels extended by 1", but the interior well is too deep, so they bind on the Tii calipers. It would take a huge extender to make them fit, so not practical. I have one 5jx13, looking for a second so I can extend them 1/2" to fit my 185 tires (and hubcaps).
  10. Thanks Nick, I just need one. I had 4.5J's extended an inch to 5.5", but the fronts bind on the bigger Tii calipers. I have one 5J, looking for a second 5J to extend 1/2" for the fronts. Mike's comment about Opel wheels is likely the solution! (and I wouldn't have to arrange an int'l shipment)
  11. Is there a 5th 5Jx13 steelie you could part with? Ironically enough, need one to complete my hubcap retrofit! 😉
  12. Just need one to complete my steelie hubcap set! Will pay for shipment to Germany or Holland. PN: 36111106610
  13. My high school '68 1600-2 was Bristol too. Love it!
  14. I think that's from the BMW Art Car designed by Salvador Dali... probably worth big bucks!
  15. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=coolnvintage&qpvt=coolnvintage&view=detail&mid=03569DDF5E8A10EB543C03569DDF5E8A10EB543C&rvsmid=FAF16F996B7E6AC8CE70FAF16F996B7E6AC8CE70&FORM=VDQVAP 'nuff said...

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