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Swiss 2002Tii

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About Swiss 2002Tii

  • Birthday 07/03/1958

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  1. 5mm aluminum rod, a vice or clamp, and a pair of channel locks 4mm drill bit [don't ask about the grease! (gone)] 289mm & 85mm can be measured without a jig; scribe the center of the ball front and back. Anyway, it's a starting point. WUR tool is about 17mm. A piece of ~1mm sheet steel or a putty knife works fine.
  2. Count me in too! I use the push button because my later model relay (E28?) runs too long and floods my car.
  3. New Old Stock (12.94) VDO fuel sending unit for sale. Includes rubber O-ring gasket. This is the single-contact version with no contact for the low fuel warning (piggy-backs on the e-brake light). The length from mount to screen is 8 inches or 200mm. Why sell? Too short for my fuel tank, never installed. This is the difference between this new US version 46 liter tank), and the longer EU version (51 liter tank): The resistance for the US unit is 72.4 Ohms on Empty (float at bottom) The resistance at full was about 5 Ohms for both units The longer EU unit has 77 Ohms of resistance on Empty. I was fighting a heavy gas smell in the trunk. My sending unit appeared to be for a standard model 2002, and was all goobered with silicon seal, so I thought to replace it with the correct original equipment. I bought a replacement from BTS in Germany. With the Customs clearance and duty into Switzerland, it was too much hassle, they wouldn't take the return. In retrospect, I jumped the gun. I should have removed and inspected mine first. Upon removal, it turns out the biggest problem with mine was not the pinched-off fuel fitting (that was easy to seal off with epoxy and heat shrink)), the rubber gasket was completely disintegrated. Fortunately, my tank is much cleaner than that mess would suggest! I paid €200 (US$220) for the unit, would appreciate a reasonable offer. Shipping to US is about $20.
  4. Hi Teelinger, lesson learned from Ted Einspritz; I used 2.5sq.mm here in Europe. The closest suitable gauge in the AWG countries would be 14 AWG. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-d_731.html I used something like 18 AWG when I first wired a similar RF relay in line with my fuel pump. That set me on a 6-month "sojourn of discovery"... learned a lot about KF pump setup, maintenance, etc, but ultimately, it was the wire... upgraded that to 2.5sq.mm and the catastrophic failure after 30 minutes of running went away. If you look at the standard wire from the connector up under the dash against the firewall, I think you'll find it's between 16AWG and 18AWG; should be thicker for the current draw on the fuel pump. The pump motor loses efficiency as it heats up, so the current draw is higher after 30 minutes or so.. Easy wire to replace. It runs along the edge of the seat or under the sill trim, up and over the rear wheel housing into the trunk. I replaced it all the way from the fuel pump to the fuse block. I have the relay, etc., but I haven't re-installed it yet. You can set it up so that the fuel pump wire supplies both power to the RF relay and the power relay, but next time I will use a green "ON" feed for the RF Relay and run my fuel pump wire through relay. Just makes for slightly simpler circuit. I will install under the dash instead of under the trunk floor panel to access the +12V "ON". Different RF relay, but same idea. You could use the first diagram to switch a second power relay, the second diagram can be used to switch the pump circuit, but I would be careful about current draw, and thicker wires seating properly. (BTW, it's GND, not "-12V") It's pretty cool being able to turn your fuel pump on and off with the key fob when you're trouble-shooting other areas.
  5. Good idea, but best to use this to drive a proper relay (coil), as it isn't designed to carry the current needed by the fuel pump motor. The fuel pump wire gauge is (if correct) too big to fit the small wire mounts. Too thin wire to the fuel pump motor will cause current starvation once it warms up (ask me how I know).
  6. Beautiful work! '68 1600 in Bristol was my 2nd car, first Bimmer, made an impression that never wavered!
  7. Doh! Too late to edit! Not a mixed metaphor, but close! 😉
  8. Good luck with that AFR! I just installed an AEM analog gauge and it works great - very responsive.
  9. It might have been this pulley that 2k2tii had machined. Beautiul bit of machining. I don't know if he has any more. As dlacey says, you can make a short pulley with parts from the hardware store.
  10. As the Tii guppy in the tank, I would defer to Paul and Ted Einspritz on KF adjustments, but my understanding is that the v-screw affects the mixture throughout the whole range of rpms, so if you really cannot lean out your mixture at any point, it could be suspect. Otherwise, if you can adjust the mixture screw in the tuna can and get a reasonable mixture from partly open throttle around 12-13.x AFR to 13.x-14.x @ WOT, you're in the ballpark.
  11. In my case, yes. Idle runs high at start and slowly drops over about 5-6 minutes. My warm idle is currently a little high at 1100 rpm because I (purposely) set the D-cam in the tuna can to be about 1mm right of the locating pin hole. I had been running rich earlier, and wanted to lean it out and start over. As a result, my idle is a bit high and the idle screw is off of the D-cam. It runs OK through most of the rpm range at AFR 12-13, and goes a bit lean at WOT. My Innovate LM-2 went belly up, so I put tuning on hold. Since then, I’ve installed AEM gauges in the console, and I’m back in business. After pulling the Bosch O2 sensor, I found it was pretty heavily sooted over from very rich running with the original KF pump. I plan to blow it clear and give it (the LM-2) another try with the exhaust mount. I’m just waiting until I have the time to pull the WUR, re-mount my repaired throttle body mounting bracket, etc., and realign everything in one session!
  12. This is my old KF pump. I had issues with this one, and never could get it set up properly, but I cannot lay it specifically on the v-screw: This is my replacement KF pump after rebuilding and calibration: You can see that the v-screw is not threaded out nearly as much. @ 6mm, the gap with WUR dead cold is greater than the spec of 2.4mm, but it's the same as the one I removed. My warm-up seems normal. I have to take my WUR out to fix a leak and do other things. I'll address that gap when I do everything else. This replacement was dead-easy to set up for a consistent AFR compared to the original pump.
  13. Thanks again Paul! I save everything I think will be useful to a Word doc on the topic so I don't have to spend hours searching to find it again. I had saved your photo as a jpeg.
  14. The hole diameter for the clock should fit the clock pretty snugly. I have mine set in place without the mounting bracket, which is somewhat difficult to reach, although it is possible from below, and more easily through the glove box. There is sheet metal behind that the mounting bracket seats against, but i think you could carefully make the cut without disturbing anything. Access for the cable harness is easy from the instrument cluster. Power for the clock comes from the back of the instrument cluster. You don't have to use that cable access hole; you can slip it along behind the dash cover. There are two sets of 3-pin points. One is for the tacho, the other is for the clock. The 3-pin connectors are slightly different, as you can see. Do you have one on your harness? On my Tii, the clock power was originally split off from the tacho. This will work, if you cannot find the other 3-pin connector. I separated the two, and made separate harnesses for the tacho and clock. Tsingtao_1903 helped me with the other connector, and he designed a 3-D model that you could take to a 3-D print shop and have one made. I suggest that they use vinyl, as the typical 3-D print plastic is too brittle. 3-pin connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3025966 The clock normally has a black plastic barrel as a spacer for mounting it on the dash. I see on Tsingtao's 3-D site that he also designed a 3-D model for the shroud and both types of 3-pin connectors. Way to go, Trieu! Make sure to test your clock with +12V before completing the mounting process. If it doesn't reset the servo and start ticking, inspect this point and see if the contact has opened. If it is opened, you can use a small amount of solder to reconnect it. Let me know if you need other photo for reference, I have more. Clock (25) marked.pdf

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