Jump to content

AceAndrew

Editor
  • Content Count

    3,463
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8
  • Feedback

    100%

Community Reputation

1,209 Excellent

About AceAndrew

Contact Methods

  • Website URL Array

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Given you already are running the IE swaybars…….. the IE stg.2 springs are a fair amount stiffer than the bavauto springs. For autocross, try putting the rear bar at it's least stiff setting, and the front at it's most stiff setting (if you are experimenting).
  2. I wrote this for first timers a while ago.... https://adamsautosport.com/bmw-m10-cylinder-head-rebuild-introduction/
  3. Can you elaborate? Tii rotors are 256mmX13mm
  4. Yes, it is an Ireland manifold. No, it is not a IE/Redline linkage. Here is another recent client build..... IE manifold (port matched), Adams Fuel Rail and Cold Start Block Off's, 40's, Longer velocity stacks, custom filters, Pierce linkage, etc. It's easy to get carried away, haha.
  5. I use a Lokar cable to connect a good rod linkage to the pedal box. It needs support arms at the pedal box and up at the carb for the cable sheath. IMG-2156 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr
  6. I've been really busy with life the past few months. In the middle of an internship that may be a career move, building satellites! Have some very patient people waiting on me to finish a few projects. New parts are in production. Hood Latch rod restoration finished. I found stainless split pins from McMaster that were a nice alternative to the factory pins. McMaster #91610A510. Funny little thing I never knew were the differences in the cable mount. There is an early and late style. Early style has a normal bolt with a folded-over retainer. Late style used a bolt with a round head with a chunk missing. Early: Late: Roll Pins All together. I know the bar is "correct" in blue zinc with nickel-plated ends, but the yellow-zinc is oh so nice. Wiper Arms: The wiper arms were polished to a satin finish and then clear coated. The threaded ends checked out great (thankfully). Fresh plated hardware (though the nuts need chroming), fresh nozzles, and fresh wipers rounded things out. I am rebuilding the wiper motor right now. Fuel Tank: Restored the factory fuel tank. It was in great shape thankfully. Started by cleaning the inside thoroughly, great news that no coatings were needed. Next was stripping off all the old paint. Painted the bottom portion with a brush and the heavy-duty epoxy primer (as used on the undercarriage). Shot the top of the tank with the same stuff, just in a paint gun. Then sprayed the bottom with Wurth Schutz. New drain plug (M10x1.0) hardware from Belmetric (#DP10X1.0AHYLW) The top was painted satin black, and one more thing done! "STEALTH FUEL PUMP RECIPE: Parts: -Late E30 325i Carrier and fuel-level sender -Early E30 (or similar) low-pressure pre-pump Since I'm going carbs, this setup is also compatible with a standard carb'd M10. I've seen a number of variances surrounding this setup but this one is ideal for this car. No external fuel pumps, no drilling/mounting, OEM parts, not too shabby. In addition, the early 12 gallon tank is roughly 8" deep, this pump (with filter) ends up right there at 8". No cutting and lengthening needed (and the fuel sender will still read accurately). This same setup (with a return nozzle (early E30 carrier) and a high-pressure pump) is the one "6goesinto2" brings up and is pretty common for 318i-injection-swappers as well. The low-pressure pump options: 1) "E21/E30 low-pressure in tank pump" aka the Vega pump for E28 guys. There are a lot of part numbers, including... Airtex #E8187H and Spectra #SP1159. This pump is rated for 3.5-6psi roughly, so it's plenty for a carbed car. 2) The dark horse, from Volvo. This one also has a lot of part numbers, but #23430100 works. It's claimed to have the same pump rating, but I still need to verify. It fits the E30 carrier much better than the other pump, but that's splitting hairs. Terminal wires need to be changed to match the pump. And there we have it, a stealth electric fuel pump! Thank you to those on the FAQ who have brought up this setup in the past. Radiator (FINAL DESIGN): So finally the radiator specs were finalized and I called Patrick up at Midnight Motorsports for help. He said to send over the (US-made) core and he'd tack on the end-tanks and pipes. He'd then send it down for me to test fit, and then I'd send it back up to him to finish it up. It's great to have something Patrick's made on the car, he's been one of my favorite 02 people since forever. His gratuitous speed holes were icing on the cake. FYI: He's made a template of this radiator, so it is possible to make more of this design if someone wishes. Here's the test fit.
  7. Hi Rop, It's no different than any other 2002. If you use the search function, you will find a lot of helpful information. Here's the search results using google, https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=bmw2002faq+removing+a+hood&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 Congratulations on the Baur and welcome to the FAQ! I was one of a couple guys working on this car for the past couple months, you may find some helpful reference photos. http://www.coupeking.com/current-projects/bmw-2002-baur/
  8. Yessir, the 2002 case/housing is identical (save for stamping numbers) to the early (>09/79) E21 housings. The variables being everything else. The axles are also left over from the 2002 (again, up to 09/79).
  9. These are well known (measured a couple sets myself) to have relatively high diameter variances. If your machinist bore out all the holes to one size, then you will have a number of different piston/bore clearance numbers. However, this should have been apparent within a reasonably short time of being rebuilt. I like the rod end bushings theory.
  10. Probably the only time I'll ever get to correct Preyupy... so here goes. E21's had the 4-bolt case up to the 09/1979 crossover.
  11. Ooohh…. nice. You have what I refer to as an "early 71". There were quite a few changes in mid-71, so take that into account when troubleshooting issues. The repaint presents very well. Your car would have run silver-dollar gauges (looks like you've got one left) And welcome! We generally like to teach a man to fish around here, as you've undoubtedly picked up on. Where are you located, and what are your plans with the car?
  12. I'm on the fence. I like the black-painted wheel wells, but the colored wells look great as well. Another option is tinting the schutz with bodycolor... here's an example https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/116731-m20-triple-weber-build-x2/?&page=12#comments
  13. With that early linkage, your shift lever is also going to be early-style and will not fit with the late model linkage (the bottom width is thinner). This means you will need a late model lever as well. This linkage was never installed by BMW in '76. The PO changed the transmission and linkage/lever to an early one (not for any design advantage, the original trans probably kicked the bucket and he had an early one laying around). In this case you should be irritated with the PO, not IE. As Mikey said, changing out out the transmission's selector shaft seal is probably also a good idea.
  14. Simple wave washer will do fine. Wouldn't run without a washer there.
  15. Sync-link can be bought from Redline (owned by worldpac). Redline is also the US importer of Weber carbs. Therefore, your shop can get the sync-link the next day, just like webers…. if they know the redline part number. edit: and today is the fourth.... so don't get your hopes up that something ordered today to be there in the morning. edit 2: WP/Redline's part number is actually also just "sync-link".


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.