AceAndrew

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About AceAndrew

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  • Website URL http://aceandrew7.deviantart.com/

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  • Location SouthernCalifornia
  1. I remember talking about it on here a while ago. Never saw that picture though! Was that picture taken after it was pulled out but before it was revamped? It was the pet project of a couple of the race mechanics at Tom Milner's PTG the first time around. The current "homage liveried" version was with the Rahal guys. Mike got some good shots from it's first PTG revamp. http://www.stanceworks.com/2013/07/the-car-that-started-it-all-the-bmw-1602/
  2. Paul, that is one of the coolest 02's I've seen in a while. Interesting to note the embossed front trim and red tailights, while the interior has the non-chrome dash. 1) You can email BMW Classic in regards to the car's sale history. Though "options" will not be recorded. 2) If you are in Texas, reach out to Terry Sayther. He would love this story and be able to point out any neat quirks and answer any questions you have. Welcome to the FAQ!
  3. Alan, I enjoy the 2002 community a lot BECAUSE of the very accommodating nature of it's enthusiasts. The overwhelming majority of us are able to enjoy each other's cars/choices without casting disdain or judgement. I would be shocked if you would EVER receive negative feedback from a 2002 guy. "Is it a real Alpina?" is a mind-numbing question you will only get from someone who doesn't know 2002's very well. Historically speaking, very few early "Alpina" cars have any documentation you would expect (plaques, factory records, etc.). A set of shocks/springs from them could constitute for having the badge put in place. If you are building the car for yourself, and are transparent in regards to your actions, then I see no problems.
  4. Good morning Harold, When I was working at IE, I learned the hard way not to use UPS for international shipping (at the expense of several frustrated clients in a short window). So in short, it is by no means a solely W&N affair. The only suggestion I have is try to insist they use a different carrier with your orders and complain (loudly) about the cost. If enough fellows do this, W&N will change tact in short order.
  5. electrical and ignition

    Welcome to the FAQ BOB. Given that this thread is four years old, it would be neat to see some pictures of your Custom Autosound" in your 2002. Your opinion seems to run contrary to a number of other vintage forum members.
  6. Put the plate on top of the strut mount.
  7. I have a very similar setup going into mine. Very clean and functional. Nobody really needs a head unit anymore. I've played around with the retrosound head unit but can't get over that it looks pretty cheesy.
  8. It's pretty simple, the red 50k Tii was an "honest" car with lots of attributes in its favor (roundie, bumpers, obvious care taken). The quality of the car spoke for itself. The car in your link is a "dishonest" car with none of those attributes. The superlative-filled description does not match the photos.
  9. I have a used un-cut set from my car. The "chrome" needs to be refinished. Also have a set of Dave's wooden panels. Need to clean them up and inspect for any damage before listing them. Only reason I'm selling is that BMW finally did a run of the early black panels ... a year after I placed the order.
  10. 1) Rotors: You are going to want E21 Vented Rotors (from the 1977 E21 320i, or all production year E21 323i or 320/6). As you mentioned, IE or others will supply. There is no real difference in quality between currently available rotors. 2) E12 rotors are literally Tii calipers with spacers between the caliper halves. You can try to use Tii calipers as cores, it's a bit of a crap shoot, but odds are in your favor that it would work. There have been a newer production run on the Tii calipers, but they will always hold value. Personally, I'd hang onto them and pay the core charge. 3) Your Tii brake master cylinder will be just fine. If you have a standard 02 BMC, then consider swapping. Difference between the E12 BMC and Tii BMC is that the Tii version integrates a residual pressure valve for the rear line.
  11. I will emphasize this. Flare nut wrenches are worth splurging on. I have used Harbor Frieght, Craftsman, whatever-that-cheap-amazon-brand-was, all of them were frustratingly bad. Their poor tolerances offered only as much grip on the nut as your typical open ended wrench. Other than that, everyone's just about nailed it. Hope you get it worked out. If the worst happens, let me know if you end up needing some new hardlines.
  12. Given that it is a 1976 (and you want to use it in California), based on it's potential value versus repair costs.,.... I'd say it would not be a financially sound decision. That being said, if it has sentimental value or you want to learn to do bodywork, then there's something to be gained.
  13. That is a very good deal, those look great. Below is my opinion on the average pricing for E21 seats. Obviously there will be outliers, but hopefully it helps give you a decent picture. $275-$600 used "core" seats. Includes tears, etc. Bolster foam issues being nearer the bottom. $600-$800 moderately used "driver" seats (no tears, seam splits) $950-$2000 Newly professionally reupholstered (higher end for leather, etc.)
  14. This thread is a perfect response to your question.
  15. Yes to your question regarding if you had the desirable bumpers. No to your question if people shorten them or not.