AceAndrew

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About AceAndrew

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  1. Yep. I ditched the tiny nut for something easier to grab with a wrench. Found the longer nut as shown in the linked picture. As another stud option, once you drill/punch out the old one you can just buy some small bolts of the right size and weld them in the backside. If you look closely, you can see the welded allen-head cap screw welded on the right bucket.
  2. Yes, you get larger bearings and brakes. No, not worth the investment in your case (unless we are talking a couple hundred bucks "i.e. a steal").
  3. Loosely fit from the front to back, then go in and tighten up the bolts in reverse (back working to front). Also plan on a couple adjustment periods as everything settles into place.
  4. As mentioned the M10 is pretty buzzy. Alternator bushings can go bad and do weird things to bolts, if it get's bad enough. Headers, sure. Fuel pump, that would be a first for me. Driver's side motor-mount arm giving way is not fun. Additionally, the driveline can also be a big source of vibration. I wouldn't unduly stress in regards to the urethane mounts, they are 80a durometer (not too aggressive) and are not bolt-through. Zinz is right though, a general inspection "nut-and-bolt" while you are under the car is never a bad idea. What is is that you are experiencing, exactly? Or is this just a general inquiry? Are we talking about
  5. Well, there's the reasonable explanation that someone may have stepped on the brake pedal while the caliper was dangling. This could have hyper-extended the pistons a tad (with no rotor to stop them). Solution there is to simply bleed your front caliper to relieve the pressure (spreading the pistons back to their normal position). Then get everything tightened down before bleeding again. Or, as you say, a kink possibly occurred.
  6. By some weird chance did you keep the hardlines and caliper connected (just zip tied up in the fender well) while you did the strut assembly swap?
  7. I am in! Thank you for doing this again. Tired of using the "universal" fender covers that don't work well at all on a 2002.
  8. Grab a set of measuring calipers and get the measurement of a lobe's base circle (smallest OD) and then measure the tall side (largest OD). Subtract the smaller number from the larger and you've got your cam lift. That will give you a step in the right direction (short of Toby's suggestion of looking for a grind number on the nose).
  9. Toby, I'm working on an ignition-only wasted-spark setup (kind of like the microsquirt) except utilizing the stock M20 60-2 wheel and be blue-tooth friendly. It will be ready this summer. Should be a neat solution for those so "carb inclined". Or be like Tony and boost the bejeebus out of it!
  10. I'm rooting for you Jake. Hope all is well.
  11. Ogryry, 1) A no-cut M20 swap has been done by the illustrious Tom Jones up at Casey Motorsports. I know he ran an electric water pump at the nose, and an M20-specific Getrag 245 trans to avoid dicing up the trans tunnel. 2) Camperman has a great blog where he slid an aluminum radiator underneath the top tray. Looks factory from the top. He also ran that Getrag 245. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/150-triple-weber-28l-m20/ 3) I'm working on a similar solution as camperman, but where the top tray will be removable for ease of servicing the radiator down the road. Unfortunately it looks like a number of photo links are no longer valid. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/116731-m20-triple-weber-build-x2/?do=findComment&comment=1092451 Hope that points you in the right direction.
  12. See, this is where you will be fine (and receive big man-bear hugs from Toby). Earlier in the thread there was the feeling that you might be one of those fellows who claim "I do things perfectly the first time. Don't question my expertise." It will be exciting to see what you come up with.
  13. Very cool, good luck! Here's some inspiration for that "tech friendly" period interior...
  14. Have a friend who has gone through a couple. "Bear" in mind some of the original size bearings are not available anywhere new. MM will resize the OD in the casting to accept an available bearing. There are a couple other bits that I don't recall at the moment. Why not call and ask? I'm sure they'd provide some general explanations (just maybe not proprietary details).