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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  


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About AceAndrew

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  • Website URL http://aceandrew7.deviantart.com/

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  • Gender Male
  • Location SouthernCalifornia
  1. Oh man, they look good. I'm definitely going to grab a set!
  2. Kevin, They are a PITA. If the subframe is in the car, I'd recommend trying a big C-clamp or a rif of the bushing installation tool found mentioned often here on the FAQ and R3V (rod, washers, nuts). If the subframe is out of the car, you can jerry-rig it in a press. Took me three minutes that way.
  3. Just bumping this up. Still after more broken carbs.
  4. Yep, open up a tiny bit as needed. An interesting note, the fixed plates fit cleanly over the old OEM 2002 strut mounts (and you'll note they fit perfectly in the holes on the body). Several years ago BMW superseded the 2002 strut mount with the E21 strut mount. They are very very close, but as you found, the hole spacing is not identical.
  5. Standard Volvo calipers will not, IE filled/repositioned Volvo calipers will. I highly suggest against "slotting" volvo calipers. Have seen too many instances of them coming loose. If you go that route, then make inspecting them a part of your regular maintenance routine.
  6. New control arms are not available right now. They have not been available for a couple months. BMW has an ETA, but it's hazy at best. I've seen eta's pushed back 3-4 times (till they are made again or marked NLA).
  7. I concur.
  8. Jordon, my suggestion would be to take the pieces (and the pictures of Bruce's bumper) to a local well-regarding hotrod/fab shop and see what they say. I know Bruce had a friend of his do the bumpers. The cost wasn't cheap, but the results spoke for themselves. http://iemotorsport.com/gallery/v/car-of-month/October+2013+-+Bruce+Carr+-+1969+2002/
  9. I was working with the gentleman for a while before he dropped off the radar. I got the picture someone above him put the kibash on the effort.
  10. No, they match the steering wheel. If anything looks out of place, it is the shift knob.
  11. The problem was that by angling them, I would have been unnecessarily introducing some real compromises to avoid a perceived compromise. In order to set manifold high enough to clear the booster at 0-5 degrees I would have gone from a smooth arcing intake charge with two soft bends, to a series of three sharp angle changes (including an odd inverted one). CFD showed this screwed things up quite a bit, including but not limited to, robbing a decent amount of potential power. If I tried to address that mess by softening the angles then I ran back into booster (including tii) clearance issues. No offence taken at all.----- Continuing to develop the DCOE system, namely the linkage. The “Easy Way Out” would be to hook a cable directly to the lever arm on the carb. The problem with this is streetability. Such a small radius would mean that a very small amount of pedal travel would have a very big effect on throttle angle. Basically, the engine would behave like an on-off switch. Fine for a race car, not so much on a street car. I drove an M10 running dual carbs setup this way once, and grew sick of it after five minutes on the street. So as I briefly showed in the last post, I began to mock-up a top-mount linkage that incorporated a lever arm, 3/8” rod, and a cable-receiver arm. Then another problem arose, the lever arm crashes into the balancer screw at about ¾ throttle! Going to see if I can switch to mounting the rod to the lever arm on the opposite side (and machine the node jutting off the carb body). If that doesn’t work, I will make a longer lever arm. At that point, I pulled the engine back out for the last time prior to paint. With the help of my youngest (and his toy train) we pulled out the last remaining bits from the engine bay. Now I tackled the interior sound proofing via the dry-ice method. Didn’t go over great as the kids wanted to play inside! The rest will come out in round two. The great news is that there was no serious rust/rot on the floor panels! Next up I’ll be taking out the headliner, removing the suspension, and get the shell up on some dollies (courtesy of Eric).
  12. My two cents, take it as you will. Ditch the lower trim, it doesn't look good. If you are worried about dings in the garage, get some magnetic "Door Shox" or something. If you are doing a bare metal respray, remove the engine and do the color change. If you aren't "going all the way" and keeping the engine in, don't do the color change (don't even bother on the bare metal bit either). 2002's look best in bright colors, not boring colors.
  13. Here's my original setup from four years ago. The V.2 features a bluetooth-enabled equalizer connected to a compact amp, 4 speakers, and a hidden Amp/mini-sub underneath the seat (all Clarion).
  14. McMaster sells shocks that rated for various lengths/pressures. I ordered a few options and ditched the idea shortly thereafter since my radiator setup would interfere. There's no reason it couldn't work. Just bear in mind, the higher the pressure, the more force you'll have to use to push it down.
  15. I DD'd a 38/38 with a canon on a stock engine for three years (approx. 50k). It was dialed in and never gave me a problem. Prior to that I ran a 32/36 for a year, wasn't nearly as fun. But yeah... don't plan on the electric choke being functional.