AceAndrew

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About AceAndrew

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  • Website URL https://adamsautosport.com

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  • Gender Male
  • Location SouthernCalifornia

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  1. AceAndrew

    Spend my money ... please (Power, Tranny)

    Seth, A lot of your questions should now be answered via ride alongs. There's isn't a good way to describe things further due to relative experiences/desire differences. 230whp is at the limit of what the chassis "likes", go more than that and you start to inherently chop/cut/fabricate at an exponential rate. Also, the 230whp mark is the highest "street-friendly" spec for the M20, you can always go with lesser-tuned variation. As for weight/dynamics, cumulative weight needs to be considered, turbo systems, center of gravity, etc.... it all is worth considering. I personally prefer the liner torque curve (while still being "zippy") of this combo versus that of the naturally aspirated S14/F20/M42 4-cylinder options. I also prefer it to how most "boosted" options feel. BUT! that is all personal obviously so please take it as an opinion, there are no "facts" here. Radu's car is what I was picturing..... this is not the full 2.9L spec.
  2. AceAndrew

    Spend my money ... please (Power, Tranny)

    Oof, there are a million options. You've done a good job on nailing down what you are after. I would highly HIGHLY suggest you bum rides off of anyone you can. 2002 guys (especially 2002 hotrod guys keen to show off the results of their choices) would be happy to take you for a drive. My opinion below is based on the following: 1) your "gold standard" involves a peppy straight-six linear torque curve. 1b) engine longevity/simplicity (no turbo plumbing) 2) to keep some semblance of a vintage BMW lineage and driving characteristics 3) automatic compatibility Motor: 6-cylinder M20B29 "ultimate street stroker" spec. This is the motor I spent a couple years developing for exactly the purpose you give. As a plus, the weight penalty is very small given the fact it's a 6-cylinder. https://adamsautosport.com/information/tutorials/bmw-m20-ultimate-street-stroker-engine-checklist/ Intake Options: Injected: RHD Individual Throttle Bodies Carbed: Triple Webers budget: just keep the stock intake (-30hp) https://www.instagram.com/p/Bp2QIj2Hg8y/ Horsepower: 230hp at the wheels on 91 octane and will last 150k-200k miles. Automatic Transmission: Multiple options for that engine. Easiest option: the automatic found in the standard E30 325i. However the bolt pattern on the motor block is compatible with later model BMW's like the E90-chassis, I don't know what would be involved but you could hypothetically run an automatic from one of them. Rear Subframe/Diff: Use the medium-case differential conversion subframe offered by 2002 Underground ------------------------- All in all, this is a path that is pretty well documented and pretty straight forward. To be blunt, it's the path I've chosen after driving all sorts of restomodded 2002's (S14, M42, M20, F20, etc.) Hope that helps get some creative juices flowing. In my opinion, 2002's were made to be hotrodded.
  3. AceAndrew

    Hood rod and wiper arms

    Hey Steve, that information was relayed to me by Peter Sliskovich (aka father CoupeKing). He said he found this out many years ago as a part of his tear-down/restorations but can't recall the exact situation. For my part, I know that nickel plating tends to not be as robust as zinc, and therefor wears faster. This stands to reason given the ends appear to wear faster than the center rod. Here's a very small taste of the mass of parts that are stored around. IMG_5775 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr IMG_5656 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr
  4. AceAndrew

    M20 Triple weber build x2

    Final Fab Day 12.1.18 This past Saturday I rolled the chassis closer to the welder and the last of the fabrication was finished. Namely, bolts were welded into the floor. They will act as studs for what will be the fuel/brake hardline retainer tabs. I’m using retainer tabs found on E30's/E28's for a clean setup. A couple wayward screw holes were welded closed, and the old speaker holes on the rear seat support were patched. IMG_5332 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr IMG_5336 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr In the engine bay, I bent up a little extra reinforcement bar and welded it into place. IMG_5334 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr With that done, I used a brush and some Wurth Seam Sealer to close up the floor drain holes. Also brushed the inner front fenders, rear inner fender wells, and a couple other spots. IMG_5394 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr IMG_5356 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr Undercoating 12.5.18: I've been getting geared up for the colored part of the undercoating process for a while! It's the first chance at seeing some color on the car! So off to the store I went with a piece of Taiga sheet metal from a parts car. Between the sample and Taiga color code (072) the paint shop was able to mix up 2 quarts for the project. This whole experiment was a bit of a fun learning experience for me, I haven’t done any colored processes before and was a little nervous at the thought of a worst case scenario that included all $350 worth of supplies in the trash. The idea of coloring the undercoating itself is pretty straight forward. With the undercoat colored all the way through (rather than just paint over top of the coating), future chips/gouges are less likely to stand-out. Masked off the car with some riveting Spanish newspaper. IMG_5397 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr Stoneguard IMG_5393 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr Paint! (mixed 4:1:1 w/ hardener and reducer) IMG_5403 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr The lab station IMG_5409 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr All mixed up! The batches were done 2 quarts at a time. IMG_5408 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr And ACTION! There was a little learning curve, the gun didn’t want to cooperate at first as the mixture was a little too thick. Once that was corrected by a little dilution, everything went great. In total the undercarriage received two-to-three-ish coats. All in, six bottles of Stoneguard were used and around a quart and a half of paint. A little color peeking through, this was a pretty involved little session, so no photos were taken of the actual work being done. IMG_5410 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr I did a little touch up this morning and pulled off the masking tape! It feels fantastic to finally have some color on the car! IMG_9405 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr IMG_9400 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr IMG_9402 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr
  5. AceAndrew

    Hood rod and wiper arms

    Also note, the hood rod jogged ends (S bendy pieces) were NOT cad plated, but rather they were nickle plated. It had a slightly-yellowish tinge that some have mistook for yellow zinc/cad.
  6. Shims will only need to be changed if you are using a different pumpkin and/or gear set. You should be fine.
  7. It is likely a reference number to the inner pinion spacer thickness. Usually you will find a few more similar marks on the pinion when you disassemble everything for a rebuild.
  8. Well, if you started getting carried away the 2002 has historically been very competitive in FSP. As for swaybars, while you'll see an improvement using ST swaybars, you might consider jumping to the IE swaybars. Definitely a step above in terms of performance. You would be hard pressed to find a modern 2002 vintage race car or nationally competitive autocross 02 NOT running them. I also echo the sentiment about needing a proper seat. You probably noticed the need immediately, haha. Reinforcing trailing arms can be done down the road, but also consider the following (there's more, but these are the basics for someone having fun in their 2002): 1) Reinforcing the driver-side motor mount arm of the subframe (this was colorfully discussed here recently) 2) Seam weld the front control arms
  9. AceAndrew

    Vapor Blasting Resource

    FYI, I’m building a vapor blaster right now and will be offering the service for SoCal people.
  10. AceAndrew

    IT'S HERE! - 2019 BMW 2002 Calendar

    Thanks for putting this together again. I'll be getting one.
  11. AceAndrew

    Dreaded front subframe crack....

    I think if you ran a flanged lock-nut and get some locking engagement you would be fine. Using an E12 mount would be ideal. --- Also, if someone wants to go boxed, just be sure to wheedle in there to clean out that area regularly. I disassembled a subframe a couple years ago that had boxed reinforcement, even with drain holes at the bottom, there was a lot of moist road gunk in there that proliferated a bit of rust. Nothing regular maintenance wouldn't have solved.
  12. AceAndrew

    Dreaded front subframe crack....

    Different strokes, different folks. I prefer the "lay flat/double-up" method while using the E12 rubber round mount (longer threaded stud, full nut engagement). Simple, effective. While the boxing method is technically stronger, the "lay flat/double" method is plenty strong for the application.
  13. AceAndrew

    Dreaded front subframe crack....

    I think the other Andrew has a spare subframe and could weld in a reinforcement quick. @02tradition
  14. Hey Guys Just a heads up, if anyone is interested in a kit, now is a good time to get an order in. I'll be doing a number of sets over the next couple weeks.