halboyles

I managed to snag one yesterday but it appears they are out of stock and out of the sale.😪

Verified to work on a 2002! (Not my pic, came from MaxJax site)

Yes! Almost everything on the left side of that diagram is for the mechanical clutch used on very early '02s and all 1600s. The next page or so in the parts manual should be for the hydraulic system parts.

Sorry, but I misspoke, as that one sold a while back. But, to make things better, here is a pic of what happens to DCOE trumpets when you total a CSL at Laguna Seca!

I have a 45 DCOE 16 with a broken top that came off of a 3.0 CSL racer. Let me get some pics.

I am in the process of having a number of these professinally rebuilt. This batch should be available in about two weeks.

I don't have any real world measurements of the front to rear bias. But, since you aren't changing any of the hydraulics (just spacing the calipers apart), I would say there is probably no change. I certainly haven't noticed any change after installing either the tii strut spacer kit we sell or the vented disk system for the standard 2002 strut we make. The vented rotors definitely eliminate any hot brake fade and I've never experienced any warpage.

I believe you need this one: 51145480178

I make this entire linkage system including the throttle levers for the 2002ti and NK Solexs. PM if interested. Here's some pics of the Solex version.

The other route for tii struts is to use early e21 hubs with the vented rotors that goes with them. It is a bolt-on solution,

I designed it with 3D Builder, the 3D maker software that comes with Windows 10. The file format only opens in software that "slices" 3D models for printing. It can be printed it on any 3D printer. PM me with your address and I'll send you a few to share with friends. With this wedge in place and the clip held firmly against the booster fork, you can easily just push the clip down onto the pin, Takes minutes.

Way too much work! Get yourself a wedgie and eliminate all of the bitchiness! The Wedgie-Clip Spreader.stl

This is exactly the purpose of the little wedge and it is designed to open the clip wider than any screwdriver can since the tip of the screwdriver will interfere with the large receiving opening for the pin. The wedge is split to go around the receiving hole. The plastic wedge makes it just as easy on the car as on the bench.

I was just putting together a short installation tips doc on this and here is what I came up with. The clevis pin is originally inserted as in your first pic. It makes it much easier to get the clip on with the pin inserted from that side. But I first insert the pin from the other side though to get the fork orientated on the hole. Sometimes a slight nudge of the brake pedal by a helper assists in getting the pin aligned. If you are having a difficult time inserting the pin from that side, try prying the fork toward the engine slightly to provide more space. Use needle nose pliers to hold and insert the pin. Once the pin is inserted, use a screwdriver to hold it in the hole. Inserting the pin as in your first pic allows you to use the side of the booster bracket as leverage. Because that clip is so stiff, I created a small wedge that pries open the front of the clevis pin. This means you only have to overcome the inner tensioner part of the clip when pushing it on. Once you have the pin clipped in, you just push the spreader off of it. It made the process less of a bitch. I'm attaching the stl file for the wedge for those with 3D printers but would be happy to mail one out to anyone that needs one. Pics attached. Clevis Pin Opener.stl

I did post one on the FAQ some time ago but sold it last year. I do still have two Quaife pumpkins for the e36 that would also work. They are both new, unregistered. PM if interested.