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About halboyles

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  • Location KC
  • Interests Embracing imperfection

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  1. halboyles

    WTB Speedometer Housing

    PM sent.
  2. Like any coating job, the hardest part of DIY'ing an old gas tank is the prep work. There are lots of folk remedies for removing the rust inside (shaking with bolts, chains, rocks inside, attaching it to a cement mixer,... I've tried most). Then you have to etch it with phosphoric acid or the like. And it has to be perfectly clean and dry before applying any coating. Finally you have to make sure that the coating is completely cured before filling with gas. Mess up any of these and you end up with a coating that looks like @BarrettN's tank. So, after that week's of work, you end up taking it to a professional anyway. A new OEM tank sells for over a grand. A couple of hundred to have it sealed at a reputable shop that does it everyday seems like chump change.
  3. halboyles

    Radiator swap opinions

    I thought that seemed very cheap for a ti/tii water divider. That is actually the number for the Euro 318/20 carburettor version I think. It has a coolant hose outlet to feed the intake manifold. The ti/tii version doesn't have that outlet and cost significantly more: https://parts.bmwofstratham.com/p/BMW__2002tii/DIVIDER/43731955/11531255158.html If you aren't doing sidedrafts/fi that is a cheap upgrade/substitute for the stock '02 divider.
  4. halboyles

    Radiator swap opinions

    Can you post a link to this divider. Can't seem to find it. Thanks
  5. You'll definitely need to get all of that failed sealant out of there. It is rather inexpensive to have a competent radiator shop clean it and professionally seal it. Be aware that if the joints between the halves are rusted, they probably won't even attempt to repair it.
  6. halboyles

    Diff ID

    Look on the driver's side of the diff for markings that indicate the ratio and perhaps an "S" denoting an LSD. The "S" might also be on the passenger side. The one with the smooth back cover is an early '02 while the one on the bottom has a back cover from an e21. Forgot to add pics of some examples of ratios/LSD lettering. The last pic is of an e21 with a white painted "S" that is barely visible. There might also be a tag on the e21 with the ratio and an "S".
  7. halboyles

    Cable ties

    Works well doesn't turn gooey and rather inexpensive: https://www.ebay.com/p/3x-tesa-Motor-Vehicle-Fabric-Tape-With-Fleece-51608-25mm-X-25-M-Adhesive/1162039677?iid=252032122342&chn=ps
  8. halboyles

    Rear Subframe support Bracket ?

    According to the Blue Book the same part number fits all models and years. So you should be good. You might check under the rear seat to verify that there is a captive nut on the floor pan for the M10 bolt that holds the front of the thrust rod.
  9. halboyles

    Rear Subframe support Bracket ?

    This is the part number and it is still available: 33333428125 I am surprised that Blunt doesn't carry it. Here is the listing at W&N for the OEM part: https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/rod-33-18-12.html
  10. No, they are still available for about $45. I am sure Blunt would have them but here is another listing. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-push-rod-33333428125
  11. They actually fit a number of the older bimmers. We used to fit them on all the '02 track cars we built.
  12. You have to drill an extra hole in the floor for the second bolt. You'd have to have a car that was pushed pretty hard to need these.
  13. Must. Not. Do. Yo mama joke. Must not.........
  14. Here's one: https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/push-rod-motorsport-reinforced-33-18-12.html