halboyles

I agree with this. It also sounds like something is loose and rattling. Downpipe and muffler are good places to start tightening things up. I'd also check fan/belt/alternator for noise.

I've got NOS Quaifes and e36 versions. PM sent.

Here's a good start by Tom Laudeman: http://laudeman.com/bmw_wiper.html

I've got some of these. Let me get some pics.

Speak of the devil, W&N now has this reducer! It is NLA otherwise. https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/reducer-36-22-mm-for-all-models-and-years-of-production-you-need-1-for-1-car-11-10-05.html

The drive pinion inside the transmission can be changed because they do loose teeth. They are made of a hard plastic I think. They may still be available though some sites show them as back-ordered---part # 23221200416. You might find someone on the FAQ who has a spare. You should also renew the O-ring on the housing while you are at it--- part #07119904964. If you can't find the o-ring, I have a few and would be happy to send you one.

http://www.heretical.com/miscellx/sodslaws.html

Sei il benvenuto Congratulazioni per il tuo 1600ti! (Hope that is close. I used Google translator!) Here is my '71 1600.

An original 1600ti brochure shows the air box as having angled tubes going to the Solex carburettors and the snorkels being identical, that is, not the mirror images as in the 2002ti. The straight tubes to the carbs as in the above pics is typical of the NK ti air boxes not the later ti models.

@\\\Mink just pointed out that his '72 has the same style needle but with no cross hairs, no plastic cover and a solid brass disk at the center. A little research shows that this would be on models '71 through '73. One 2.72 speedometer I have is the same version as his and the needle is the same length/shape as the cross hair one. The center disk is solid brass and the needle has extensions on the back to grab the brass disk. This replacement needle/procedure should work the same on both versions of the non-silver dollar speedometer.

For a long time I had a number of speedometers laying around with broken needles. But one day, being a man of action, I decided somebody needed to do something about it. However, after waiting a couple of years with no one volunteering to do something about it, I realized I would have to do something about it. So, I did. And I then created a new way to replace the old needle. The result is a replacement needle that can be easily and quickly installed by anyone of even the feeblest of mechanical skills. I had these commercially produced using the same materials and processes as the third brake light surrounds I am currently offering on the FAQ. You can see the specifications here: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/238253-hella-high-center-brake-light/?tab=comments#comment-1323295 The cost is $6.50 each or two for $12 shipped. I also had some tachometer needles made for folks who need or want both. Same pricing schedule. halboylesjr at gmail (Send as “Friend” or pay the PayPal man his 3.1% more). Please include your mailing address in PP or a PM. (I am also posting the needles without the procedure in the Parts for Sale forum) Most folks attempt to repair the old broken needle with a patch. My process replaces the entire old needle and would even work if you clumsily snapped off the parts as in the example below. This needle will work for '71 to '76 gauges. The '71 to '73 gauges have a solid brass disk instead of the version shown below but the procedure is pretty much the same. For either version of these gauges installation couldn’t be simpler. But there are some cautions. The late crosshair speedometer needle appears to have been molded into the center brass rotating disk on the unit. The bottom of the needle has two plastic posts that traverse the black plastic cover and the brass disk to hold the needle, black plastic disk and what seems to be a brass counterweight all together. If you try to remove the old needle entirely, you will destroy the posts and have to hold it all together to try to glue it back up again. Observe the resultant destruction in the pic below. And, just in case the question comes up, this speedo was worked on by a very close friend with uh, umm, feeble mechanical skills. Instead of wreaking such havoc, you can file down what remains of the old needle to make a flat surface for the new needle to adhere to. Then glue the new needle on top of the remnants of the old needle. The entire process only takes about 15 minutes and you get to retain your original speedo instead of trying to source a replacement one. For this process, I used some masking tape on both sides of the old needle to protect the plastic disk and to aid as an indicator for depth. You will need to hold the spindle rod behind the rotating disks with narrow needle nose pliers or a hemostat from your last hernia operation. If you file the white plastic needle remnant almost flush with the black plastic disk, you won’t break the posts’ anchoring layer of the needle and you should end up with a nice flat surface for gluing. The masking tape helps achieve this flat, uniform surface. Once you’ve removed most of the needle remnants by filing, use your favorite flavor of glue to adhere the new needle. The remaining white plastic and masking tape on its sides serve as a nifty guide for alignment. The masking tape also helps keep glue off of the black plastic disk. Note that the needle extends past the black plastic disk by about 3 mm on the top so you might want to mark that measurement on the top of the needle before positioning it. Use a marker that can be removed after gluing. To keep the needle from engaging the stop during placement and setting, I propped up the housing on the right side while holding the spindle stationary with the clamp. Before reinstalling the speedometer, it would be judicious to troubleshoot and remedy the problem that caused the broken needle in the first place. Troubleshooting this speedo problem is covered in many good posts on the FAQ. These new needles aren’t near as fragile as the 40-year old ones on our ‘02s. So, in installation and use there is much less chance of breakage.

The problem of scarcity isn't just one of the durability of the part. Many parts become unusable because of environmental exposure. Many are permanently lost to the crusher. And there are many many more that will never be produced again by BMW or the aftermarket vendors. So the correct answer to your question is to keep everything from a parts car you can reasonably store.

I have these. I'll PM you.