What did you do to your 2002 today !

[MattL]

On 4/25/2020 at 10:04 AM, Highnote1 said:

I think....all welding complete! Full rocker and lower quarter on one side. Front of rocker only on drivers side. If you have not bought one of these cheap Bluetooth cameras that hook up to your phone and give you glimpses in tiny places do it! Kept me from replacing things that were not rusted out. 

Now THAT is a reason to pop the bubbly or uncork the Pappy! Congrats!

[7502]

Pulled my 123 Switched distributor and reinstalled at a different orientation so I could look into the Switch window to see what program it was set on. Got tired of having to use a camera to take a picture through the window.  Now all I need are some reading glasses to look in the hole. Been using it for a couple years but finally decided to make my life easier and get it set in correctly. Was relieved it fired right back up with a minimum of fiddling. Currently set to Program 2:  30 BTDC at 2400 rpm.

 

Incidentally I've always wondered what program from the spec sheet would provide the best overall performance. Can't really say but I've tried a few of them and seem to always like the one it's currently set at.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 26, 2020 by 7502
space between pics

[BarneyT]

Completed break system/ driveshaft / exhaust / shifter box taking it off the rack To move it inside for final Assembly...

[M3M3]

On 4/25/2020 at 5:23 PM, 2002#3 said:

I found a used hub with nice square-top splines and rusted useless lug bolts.  Today, I drove out the bolts, cleaned the hub, and installed the bolts from the worn out hub (pointed spines) I am discarding.  $40 (used) vs. $300-$560 (new).

 

Larry

 

 

 

 

just a thought....wheel studs are not forever.  they fatigue over time.  unless i knew the provenance of the old onese, i would not have reused old studs.  new ones are not expensive.   sucks when a wheel falls off..?

[M3M3]

On 4/25/2020 at 12:08 AM, kbmb02 said:

 

Looks great.

 

(forgive my note below ... I loathe the appearance of being a know-it-all, but I believe this matters ...)

 

From here, it looks like the large, convex washer you have at the ‘back’ end of the radius rods (on the back side of the control arm) is the washer which belongs on the front of the radius rod, behind the large bushing which fits through the subframe (up by the tow hooks). The washer as it sits probably doesn’t hurt anything, but if you swapped and put the small washer up front, that small washer may allow more deflection of the forward bushing than you want (sorry ... not very clear). -KB

dang...good eye!

 

do i also detect that the left side engine mount on subframe was not reinforced in the process?

[tomphot]

8 minutes ago, mlytle said:

dang...good eye!

 

do i also detect that the left side engine mount on subframe was not reinforced in the process?

Washers changed.  There was tiny hairline crack on that mount that I had reinforced.  What else should be done?

[PaulTWinterton]

1 hour ago, tomphot said:

What else should be done?

 

I was scrutinizing your subframe looking for something I'd do.  Couldn't find anything.  Sure is pretty.  It did make me think of the install though.  The factory put a dob of yellow paint on the bolts to the frame rails.  All I could think of.

 

There's just a hint of the yellow left on mine. 

[jerryasi]

I only wish I was at the "hint of yellow stage" Looking for a bodyman . . . might just be me. Could buy a mig and sell it in month. Just need to weld the core support in and get the doors, hood and trunk lid gapped. BarneyT project looks very good, wish my project was that advanced.

[2002#3]

Marshall, 

Thanks for the suggestion.  I assumed lug bolts are tightened and loosened so very many times, nice looking ones would be sufficient to last many more times.  However, at $6 each and being easy to find, new ones will be inexpensive insurance.  Will do.

Larry

[tomphot]

45 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

I was scrutinizing your subframe looking for something I'd do.  Couldn't find anything.  Sure is pretty.  It did make me think of the install though.  The factory put a dob of yellow paint on the bolts to the frame rails.  All I could think of.

 

There's just a hint of the yellow left on mine. 

All new bolts so lost the yellow - I need to look at the originals to see if anything was left!

[M3M3]

2 hours ago, tomphot said:

Washers changed.  There was tiny hairline crack on that mount that I had reinforced.  What else should be done?

Either boxing in the ear or doubling up the metal on the mounting face are the standard methods.  Can't see either in the limited pic.  If a crack was just welded, that is not reinforcement of this known failure area.  Got a better pic of the work that was done?

[PaulTWinterton]

1 hour ago, tomphot said:

to see if anything was left!

 

I did mean fresh paint once it's assembled.   ?

[tomphot]

17 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

 

There's just a hint of the yellow left on mine. 

Here are the ones I replaced. 
 

[IanIreland]

Started stripping the car interior to get ready for gearbox conversion to manual and floor pans replacement. Assessing the landscape under those carpets.... afraid to look ?

Edited April 27, 2020 by IanIreland

[jp5Touring]

Just little stuff.  New OEM  radiator cap, Brake booster check valve and hose.  Redid the interior handbrake with the upgrade bolt kit.