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MattL

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Everything posted by MattL

  1. Tilting the motor was definitely required for mine. (Along with removing the dizzy cap, which I know you've already done.) Even then, though, it didn't just slide in, and my frustration was along the same lines as yours: "Where the $&% is it hitting!?!?" It took a lot of incremental adjustments to the angle and elevation of the transmission as I inched it forward towards the flywheel. And plenty of wiggling. Big +1 on the guide bolts, too.
  2. The system says you’re not able to receive messages. I’ll try again later.
  3. Recently installed a Kooglewerks skid plate. Not because I’m super worried about my oil pan, but because I was sure it would look cool. And guess what: it does. I dig it. Also: the control arm brace that came with it seemed like a good idea after my Danjer extended arms install. Mostly the cool-looks, though. Shallow reasons are still reasons. I also recently (finally) got my “emissions” DHLA 40H’s on and balanced. (Hal Boyles’ linkage is awesome. Very slick.) Still quite a bit of burping the dragon to do, especially since I think I may have plumbed in my brand new electric pump wrong somehow. Or my filter king. Or my fuel pressure gauge. The filter king bowl never fills more than halfway, and the pressure never shows more than 2 psi. Adjusting the fk screw doesn’t seem to do anything. It drives and makes a beautiful sound, but it’s tough to keep from going lean pretty much anywhere in the rev range. I got some new jets (a small assortment I’ve read are appropriate for the emissions carbs), but I’m not going to change any out until I figure out the pressure. In the meantime, I can live with some pops and flames.
  4. I'll take the gas pedal, if still available. PM on the way.
  5. The Champion aluminum 3-row radiator I got is too thick to fit into my engine bay. It's about 2.5" deep at the tank. I need something around 2.25" or less, ideally. Looking to upgrade to something with more cooling power than stock. Does anybody have an aluminum 2-row radiator, or a metal E21 radiator? Willing to buy or to trade the aluminum 3-row, if you have the room.
  6. It looks unlikely that the 3-row will fit, especially considering jimk's point re belt-changing. I can exchange it for a 1-row version, but I'm wondering if that's even worth considering. I'll be installing a SPAL 12" pusher fan along with the radiator, but I definitely don't want to push my luck. The stock radiator is a 2-core, right? I guess without knowing the actual capacity of the single-core aluminum unit, it's hard to know how it would stack up.
  7. For anyone looking into the Champion radiators, the 3-row version is 2.5” deep, measured across the top tank. The core itself sits about 1/8” shy of that mark. I’m hoping I can loosen the various mounts and nudge the motor/driveline back enough to clear, but right now it hits the pulley, even with the fan removed. (I had watched Spurious’ awesome videos re his 2-row, but as those weren’t in stock I took a gamble on the 3.)
  8. That’s probably where things are headed.
  9. Noted. I’ll be careful. But to paraphrase Ivan Drago: “If it dies, it dies.”
  10. That is a very cool wheel. If I could justify replacing my 320is wheel, I'd be all over this.
  11. Good to know, Toby, thanks. I'll get the parts launcher prepped in case my grind+epoxy effort is too abominable for use. Honored to be immortalized in your footer, by the way. I been gettin' real smart.
  12. Thanks, guys! I’ll get out the grinder and pick up some marine weld. If a new divider is needed, at least I will have done everything possible to make this one work. By the way, Hal: your shipment arrived safe and sound, with all pieces nicely packed up. Thank you. I can’t wait to get everything installed. I’ll let you know how it goes.
  13. Does anybody have a magical corrosion tonic recipe that might clean this divider up? I’m about to start my dual DHLA install, and that open sender port in particular looks pretty gnarly. Would love to not have to seek out (and shell out for) a new divider.
  14. I finally got enough time in the garage to tear out the original carpet in my 76 and install the carpet set I purchased from Esty. Holy cow, what an improvement. Esty's product is beautifully made, and installation was straight-forward with her helpful instructions. Thanks, Esty! Before: After: For reference, this is the blue w/blue trim set Esty posted for sale here:
  15. Steve - First off, it was great meeting you a couple weeks back in New Hope. Your car is a gem! I have H&R springs and Koni Yellows on my 76. You're welcome to take it for a drive and test out the ride, if you can wait a few weeks for me to get the seats back in. (I'm installing an Esty carpet kit and a couple other things at the moment.) Just send me a message. I, too, have larger sways installed (STs), and the setup feels pretty great to me, if a little harsh in the back. I have the Konis set at the mid-point, and next time I have the rears out I think I'll probably dial them a bit softer. I have 14" wheels, but here's how it sits:
  16. Hi Steve. I took the dark blue vinyl seats out of my 76 a couple years back, and ended up giving them to Chris Isaacson in Philadelphia about a year ago. The driver seat vinyl had a hole in it, courtesy of my 6-year-old's shoe. The passenger seat, though, was in very good condition. Do you know Chris/Stone02? (Let me know if not, and I'll put you in touch.) He might still have the seats. BTW - I am almost ready to install the RetroSound unit I bought from you a while back. I've been looking forward to it for a long time.
  17. Thanks, Syd. The wheels have "Superlite" center caps, but the rim says they were made by Two Gates in the UK.
  18. I'm in the Philly area (Collingswood, NJ), and I have a 4-speed just removed from my car for a 5-speed swap. It's a 242 (the kind that uses a bolt-on slave cylinder) rather than a 232. It shifts well through all gears, but it has a wobble at the input shaft that (I think) suggests that an input shaft bearing replacement is probably in its future. I think that's also why it has a noticeable rattle in neutral. Let me know if you're interested.
  19. A few days late to post, but last week I picked up my 76 with a newly-rebuilt-and-installed (with Blunt's awesome kit) Getrag 245 in it. After two false starts of hauling faulty transmissions in and out of the underside of the car, I wasn't looking forward to crawling back under there. I said "F*#& this!", swallowed my pride, and hired a good local shop to do the work. For anyone in the Philly area, I highly recommend J&J Motors in Bryn Mawr. Jay knows his stuff, is honest, and has a longstanding collab with a local Getrag guru for internal transmission stuff. He also typically has an eclectic assortment in-shop at any given time. When I first pulled up, there was a Camry, a Lambo, an E30, a VW bus, and a Delorean in the lot, and a couple air-cooled 911s on lifts inside. I also had Jay install my sexy new Danjer extended control arms. I'll need to do a little fender massaging to get rid of some rubbing under load, but the handling is terrific. I'm now finally getting around to replacing the original carpet with Esty's beautiful kit.
  20. Thanks for the input, guys. I’m firmly in the “don’t spend more time under the car than I have to” camp, so I ordered a pair of moog units from blunt earlier this evening.
  21. I just ordered a pair of Danjer's extended control arms. Is replacing the ball joints a must-do while I'm in there? I don't think they've been replaced before.
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