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  1. I'm mid-heater-box rebuild. Hate it! Must be an attitude thing, it's not really harder than other tasks. I guess. maybe.
  2. Thanks, Mike. A feature, I love it! At least one's from a '76. Since BMW thought a little bit of flow is a good idea, I'm going with it too, without looking inside again to see if there's a little hole. No deed to provoke some other leakage...
  3. Has anyone done a pressure test of just the brass heater valve (air pressurize one end ~15 PSI with the other end underwater)? I've got several candidate valves for my car, all of which I disassembled and cleaned carefully (along with new o-rings), and all of which have a wee bit of leakage at the outlet, both before and after disassembly. But nothing leaking out of the control stem, thank goodness! I think it will be a small enough amount of water flow that it won't be noticed in practice. I assume this isn't a "feature" of the valve design, and that if air leaks, so will water and antifreeze. Comments? thanks.
  4. think knob-headed bolt with nut on the inside
  5. I recently went thru this with my '69. In the end, I gave up on releasing the glass from the rubber seal and have no idea what sort of uber glue was used to hold the glass in. It simply wouldn't budge with as manly a force as I thought prudent. My original plan was to put new rubber channels in but that didn't happen. My metal was pretty clean and I couldn't see signs of rust inside the channels, but I suspect some rust in between was part of the problem. The rubber was pretty stiff too. You're past that point, and the metal looks a bit crusty. I'd go the distance and strip/derust/repaint the metal channel and get new rubber "U" inserts. I can't imagine any strong adhesive will be needed, perhaps some silicone caulk which would help the glass insertion problem (again, guessing the glass won't just slide in between the two sides of the rubber "U" channel)
  6. https://www.dapperlighting.com/collections/7/products/oe7 headlights with a built in fan!
  7. yeah, # 10 holds down the spare tire #11 looks like half of the grip for a German army weapon (bad joke) #12 holds up the brake stuff in the engine compartment p/n 34331112906
  8. Looks good! Note that there are good and bad zip ties out there. The stuff that's freighted into the harbor won't take much UV light before crumbling to little bits. Now if we could just find a new replacement heater core for about $30! I just pressure tested and "restored" one to install, but it's at least 45 years old.
  9. I sell this kit on Ebay for $79.99 https://www.ebay.com/itm/293650483609 For FAQ'ers, it's available until 12/1 for $65.00 including shipping. please PM if interested There is more info and photos in the ebay listing but here's a description: BMW 2002 Automatic Trunk Lid Opener with LED Trunk Lighting Your 2002 or 1600-2 came from the factory with two different keys - one for the trunk lid and one for the doors and ignition. Trunks keys seem to get lost. So, many owners just leave the trunk unlocked. Not a good idea if you carry valuables in the trunk. This kit lets you remotely open your 2002's trunk lid electrically and remotely. The LED light built into the opener adds another feature never included in the 2002 - you can actually see in your trunk in the dark. Also included is a "trunk-open" pin switch that can be used with a car alarm system, a mounting hole for a miniature switch, and a mounting hole for a standard DIN relay with tab. Use of these is optional but they're included to provide flexibility for the enthusiast who wants to use them. Finally, the kit includes a glow-in-the-dark emergency escape handle as seen on all US cars since 2002. Never get locked in your trunk. You will need to provide the electrical hookup to a source of switched power to activate the opener and light, but everything else is included. - Works on Roundie or Square Tail Light Cars, all years and models, (except touring) - Easy installation with simple tools that you probably already have - NO modification to the car's sheet metal - Is easily removable in case you want to revert to stock - Uses BMW OEM parts where possible - used parts reconditioned and tested How does it work ? An additional method of opening the trunk is created, by the addition of a motorized actuator which works alongside the original trunk latch on the back wall of the trunk. Nothing is changed on the trunk lid, your trunk latch’s adjustment is not affected by this kit. There is no change to your trunk lock. There is also no modification of the latch mechanism, except the new spring and the optional little hole that you drill to install the Emergency Escape Handle (optional, it is not necessary to install the handle). The custom powder coated steel bracket which holds this mechanism mounts using the original bolts that mount the trunk latch mechanism. No need to drill holes in your car’s body. The motorized actuator and power cable are BMW parts used on later \models. They are used parts, Reconditioned, and tested. Other items are all new. You will re-use your current latch and latch mounting bolts. What’s included? Everything that you need to install on your stock car except for the electrical parts needed to activate it (switch, fuse, etc). You will have to decide how to provide power to it and provide the necessary electrical parts to do so.
  10. 26 mph? Hmmm, it might be good for us high altitude folks, think pressurized cabin. Arduino PWM speed controller here we go... I do wonder what back pressure the heater core might create.
  11. Yeah, I saw that. If the blue book had specs for the heater system's flow, we could work this out...
  12. The SPAL fan is an intriguing idea. - It's ready to mount in place of the broken UV-baked plastic frame which used to support the old fan by just drilling a few holes - It includes blades - It's cheaper than the Bosch replacement motor - It's advertised to be totally waterproof, which the Bosch really isn't - with the right mounting hardware, you'll be able to replace it from the outside if there is a next time. - Since this type of fan works w. speed controllers, you could do an variable fan speed setup and eliminate the big resistor from the heater box. No idea about noise, except that at 300 CFM one might expect more noise than with the original fan. Presumably, it won't blow holes in the heater box or blow up the plastic vent piping. The SPAL fan is probably designed to drive into less back pressure (think that's the right term) than in this situation, 300 CFM may be an unrealistic expectation also. Originality? not so much. Slightly different topic- For those wanting to use the replacement Bosch motor, find the previous post which uses a plastic fan from Grainger for $6.00 or so.
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