What did you do to your 2002 today !

[TE2002]

1 hour ago, IanIreland said:

 

Looks great What did you use?

Ian

 

Used a generic Clear gloss spray varnish from my hardware. Happy with the results, last time I gave the knob a finish I used linseed oil which lasted a few years. 

[Markster]

Hi all.  This clutch has barely 1000 miles on it.  One friend seems to think it is Herpes.  Hi trust this community will have a more helpful range of speculation.  Any comments on this clutch appearance and what would cause this?  The red stuff on the pressure plate and the flywheel near the mounting holes you see is loctite and yes I used to much.  I may have used too much spline grease too.   The clutch worked fine - I am disassembling the engine for other reasons.  My gut tells me it is contamination from either grease or loctite?   Or Herpes of course...who knows where the previous owner had been...

[flagoworld]

10 minutes ago, Markster said:

Hi all.  This clutch has barely 1000 miles on it.  One friend seems to think it is Herpes.  Hi trust this community will have a more helpful range of speculation.  Any comments on this clutch appearance and what would cause this?  The red stuff on the pressure plate and the flywheel near the mounting holes you see is loctite and yes I used to much.  I may have used too much spline grease too.   The clutch worked fine - I am disassembling the engine for other reasons.  My gut tells me it is contamination from either grease or loctite?   Or Herpes of course...who knows where the previous owner had been...

 

 

This belongs its own topic, but I’d say the flywheel was not properly resurfaced and had some high points that rubbed harder, building up excessive heat in those areas.

 

The pressure plate could have also come from the factory faulty and uneven if not the flywheel... I have had that happen before on a different car.

 

I don’t think it was a problem with the clutch not retracting fully as you can see a ring around the clutch plate and flywheel where it looks like uneven pressure was made.

Edited June 2, 2020 by flagoworld

[offsubject]

Noticed a fuel leak in my 32/36, so rebuilt it - now its nice and dry.  After discovering the leak, I chalked up a flat spot I had noticed in my acceleration around 3.5/4k to the unmetered fuel getting into the engine, but it remained in my test drive after refitting the rebuilt carb.  Upon closer inspection, the secondary in my 32/36 was not opening under full throttle, hence the plateau in acceleration.  The throttle rod looked like it had been mangled by a PO, so into the vise it went for some "persuasion" back to an angle which would allow full opening of the secondary. Still have fueling issues though - I had noticed that the primary throttle was a little wide when rebuilding, worried it might be idling on the first progression circuit, as I can't seem to get the car in a happy place. Ugh.

Edited June 2, 2020 by offsubject

[kbmb02]

Found these lightweight connecting rods during an M10 engine tear-down...

 

[fastricky]

Fixed the horn pin on the steering wheel. Had to MacGyver a solution to keep the pin assembly in place as I'm using a Turbo wheel and it looks like the pin assembly on it was also creatively installed. Overall went well but reinstalling the top and bottom column surrounds is one mega PITA.

Edited June 2, 2020 by fastricky

[jp5Touring]

Had a lot of noise in the front end. I found the driver side gland nut had worked itself loose at some point,passenger side all good,wtf.

Nut tighten all good ?

[John_in_VA]

On 5/29/2020 at 8:07 PM, borgpj said:

Finished and installed my cup-holder.  Fits over the e-brake. E-brake still works.  Finally have a civilized car!

 

 

 

Your shift knob is oriented 180° off!

[offsubject]

On 6/2/2020 at 11:51 AM, offsubject said:

Noticed a fuel leak in my 32/36, so rebuilt it - now its nice and dry.  After discovering the leak, I chalked up a flat spot I had noticed in my acceleration around 3.5/4k to the unmetered fuel getting into the engine, but it remained in my test drive after refitting the rebuilt carb.  Upon closer inspection, the secondary in my 32/36 was not opening under full throttle, hence the plateau in acceleration.  The throttle rod looked like it had been mangled by a PO, so into the vise it went for some "persuasion" back to an angle which would allow full opening of the secondary. Still have fueling issues though - I had noticed that the primary throttle was a little wide when rebuilding, worried it might be idling on the first progression circuit, as I can't seem to get the car in a happy place. Ugh.

So after my unsatisfactory carb rebuild and throttle rod adjustment (after which I was still having fueling issues with the secondary) I ordered a bunch of new jets and a new power pump and pulled out the instructions on best lean idle settings for the 32/36.  Set idle speed and mixture screws back to Weber spec, and then waited for the parts to arrive.

 

Parts came in today, and I replaced the power pump and re-jettet the carb to the specs laid out in C.D.Eisels 32/36 tuning FAQ entry. The secondary jet was only a 140, which I stepped up to 170.  I moved from a 50 to a 55 on the secondary idle jet, and replaced both of the air correctors.  I also blocked off the secondary enrichment circuit, as they described in the FAQ article.  Just came back from a test drive, and BAM! Worked like a charm - pulls smooth from primary and into secondary engagement, no stumbles, coughs, or backfires. 

[D.martijn]

Some of you might remember I made new wiring clips for the engine compartment a while ago by hand.

I used 0.8mm sheet metal on those.

 

However, thinking about it, they are pretty stiff to bend. so I decided to try and make a small die after the good succes of my rain tray/gutter die.

I first started but measuring an original clip and modeling as close as possible in solidworks. After bumping onto a couple of videos on Youtube about 3D printed dies, this looked like the perfect test piece.

 

First mold printed, I later on changed the design to center the sheet metal strip.

 

 

 

I'm not sure how many clips I've made but the dies held up fine

 

And a little video of it in action (click on the image)

 

If you would be interested in a set of these, feel free to message me! I have plenty of material left to make some more.

[cdbeemin]

Well, who knew working from home would require so much work? Finally got some time for the 02 and took care of a couple of things on the motor. Pulled the linkage and welded up the little spring fob beneath the throttle body. It was roughly half sawed through and now it is nice and strong.  Also bench tested my 2 used starters, both work nicely. So, I connected a starter to the motor and spun it up to get the oil moving. After a very short while I had oil dripping onto various spots on the cam! So excited. Lastly, rebuilt the tranny linkage. ...what I needed to be doing was sanding...

[7502]

I gave my car some exercise today. Drove 173 miles, mostly in the wet. No phone, no tools just pure driving pleasure.  Car ran like a top, stayed in the fast lane most of the time on I5. Calculations show 28.5 mpg.  Only issue is a slight weeping from oil cap but I can live w/ that.

 

Nothing better than to enter a garage a couple hours after parking the car when it's nice and warm from the car plus a nice aroma.

 

 

Still have a slight oil leak on the cap even after an extra gasket. Maybe I have high blowby.

 

Edited June 7, 2020 by 7502
pics

[kbmb02]

Did some preliminary set-up and measuring of beehive valve springs and lightweight stainless steel valves.

 (close, but still a thing or two to work out). -KB

 

 

[FunElan]

Ran into the National Guard today

[2002#3]

New car cover.  For interior/dust/dirt only.  Fits quite well, I must say. 

 

California Car Cover  

8781YS 1974 BMW 2002TII CUSTOM CVR