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D.martijn

Solex
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About D.martijn

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  1. Any more pictures on replacing the inner A pillar panel? Looks great!
  2. Floors look pretty solid to me, is he just going to use sections of the new panels or weld them in completely?
  3. You might need to replace the starter if it's not turning over properly. Other than that, the list you described seems ok. Might want to add diff and transmission fluid too. Check rubber bushes etc.. Proficiat met je nieuwe aanwinst! :)
  4. Thanks for the pictures. Looks like I might have to make some patch panels on my own when replacing the out arches.
  5. Any pictures of the WN inner wheel well panels? are they really that bad quality? Great work so far!
  6. Looks amazing! Very nice work. May I ask what brand of tape you used for the wiring loom?
  7. D.martijn

    It Begins

    Floor looks very nice! Even around those holes! Looks like a solid car, great work.
  8. Yes, but if I can find a new rotor cheap enough, why go through the hassle of cleaning/resurfacing the rotor? I went to my local electric refurbishment center and they told me they solder/apply new cupper/silver on the commutator but it's almost the same price as a new rotor. You can still get the separate diode assembly (1 121 099 007) but not the one that's in the body itself. Although the same guy here locally told he these never seem to go bad. I'll still try to measure these out though. I've since yesterday found a Bosch rotor in Germany with the number the guy from Bosch gave me so I might pick that one up. And yes I do understand that they will have used those parts on other alternators too but when I search the for the stator number that he gave me I can't find it back on their online catalogue, so how does one know it that is the right number/that stator actually exists...
  9. After being finally done with welding on the E30, I got started with blasting the in and outtakes of the cylinder head. Pressing rubber tubes into the valve guide made sure these wouldn't get damaged. I also tape the whole head in duct tape to protect it from glass beads entering the oil/coolant passages. I will still clean the head with some water to be 100% sure there aren't any beads left inside.
  10. Hello guys, I started gathering some new parts so I can rebuild my alternator, I already disassembled it completely and as suspected the stator is burned. Since then I started looking after a replacement stator via the diagrams on Realoem and using the BMW part no on the Bosch catalogue to get the Bosch part no. I have a 0 120 400 752 (45A) Bosch alternator. Bosch numbers via BMW part no: Rotor: 1 124 034 016 (or 1 124 034 380) Stator: 1 125 045 010 (or 1 124 229 025) If I search for this rotor some sites state that this is a 35A? I also contacted Bosch and they send me a diagram (see attached pdf) with all the spare parts for my alternator but it the numbers are different.? Rotor: 1 124 034 381 (Same site as the other rotor says this is 45A) Stator: 1 125 045 026 If I now put those Bosch numbers in Realoem they tell me that it's for a 2.5CS-3.0CSL and 2500-3.3Li... Already bought a NOS 1 124 229 025 stator on Ebay for only 3€ (I was the only one bidding) +10€ shipping which is pretty cheap as these seem to go for 50-80€. I Would also like to buy a new rotor for my alternator as it's pretty rusty and has quite a bit of wear on the commutator. I'm now questioning if I should stick with the Bosch numbers from BMW or the numbers that the guy from Bosch gave me.? Hoping this is somewhat clear? New Bosch stator (Same OD, thickness, windings as the old one) Old one Alternator number 0 120 400 752.pdf
  11. Yesterday I picked up the engine, cylinder head, flywheel and some other engine parts from out local machinist. He pressure tested the cylinder head, resurfaced it together with the chain cover and gave it a clean.The engine got first measured up, which told us that one piston had worn down the cylinder over the first oversize.He bored the engine to the 2nd oversize after I found some new Mahle pistons, gave it a hone + new freeze plugs and wash. The engine didn't have to be resurfaced as it was still good. The flywheel also got ground down so we have a nice flat surface for the new clutch disc. I still need to get new bearings for the crankshaft and connecting rods before I can start putting it back together. I'll go with Kolbenschmidt bearings as I can't seem to find the Glyco's. For now I put some more oil on the freshly cleaned and machined surfaces so they won't rust.
  12. Ah, ok. I get it now, thanks for clearing that up!
  13. You could be right. I havent checked that one out yet! I'll have a look today Now that you say this, I remember him making a thread about these, but isn't he using a E12/E21 LSD diff? So these are the cv for the early 02s if I understand correctly?
  14. Hey guys, I'm selling a few spare parts here locally, when going through these parts I noticed a different type of cv joint than the ones on my 02. My car came with the regular flat ones, not these stepped cv joints. I got these from a family member and if I recall correctly he had a 1802? Could someone give me some info about when each joint was used?
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