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D.martijn

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D.martijn last won the day on November 6

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  1. i'm pretty sure these are available again from BMW or W&N
  2. I've noticed with the latest update of the forum, that it's no longer possible to use this method of inserting pictures on a post; [url=https://flic.kr/p/2k3VbeS][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50572479508_5242a32d4a_b.jpg[/img][/url] I'm using Flickr to host my pictures and it was extremally easy to just copy the provided link from flickr and copy it into my post. I now have to click on the insert image button for each image.. Could this be fixed? Thank you!
  3. Small update, I was able to find an original BMW front nose panel in Germany. The seller told me it had been laying in his fathers attic for 30+ years. Since the corona pandemic it's pretty hard to travel + it was over 9hours driving to the location, a bit far. After asking for extra pictures, we came to an agreement and the panel got shipped to my door. The back side has some paint on it, the front has overspray but still has the black coating from factory. Very happy with my purchase, I couldn't wait and test fitted the panel with the fender and the (still original) door that's fitted on the Touring. The back side where the panel gets welded on to the car was taped before painting, thus leaving bare metal, hence the rust. It's only surface rust so no big deal. This folded edge is also a lot cleaner than the old reproduction nose we currently have And a test fit on the car, the cross member fit's nicely against the frame rails. The other nose had a +5mm gap! Test fitting a fender. Crazy how much better it fits! With the other nose, the fender sticked out a good 5mm or so.. The gap is a little bit on the bigger side, but the nose panel wasn't fully seated against the egde of the inner fender. I'm sure we'll get if nice and even once it's getting mounted for good.
  4. Small update, I was able to find an original BMW front nose panel in Germany. The seller told me it had been laying in his fathers attic for 30+ years. Since the corona pandemic it's pretty hard to travel + it was over 9hours driving to the location, a bit far. After asking for extra pictures, we came to an agreement and the panel got shipped to my door. The back side has some paint on it, the front has overspray but still has the black coating from factory. Very happy with my purchase, I couldn't wait and test fitted the panel with the fender and the (still original) door that's fitted on the Touring. The back side where the panel gets welded on to the car was taped before painting, thus leaving bare metal, hence the rust. It's only surface rust so no big deal. This folded edge is also a lot cleaner than the old reproduction nose we currently have And a test fit on the car, the cross member fit's nicely against the frame rails. The other nose had a +5mm gap! Test fitting a fender. Crazy how much better it fits! With the other nose, the fender sticked out a good 5mm or so.. The gap is a little bit on the bigger side, but the nose panel wasn't fully seated against the egde of the inner fender. I'm sure we'll get if nice and even once it's getting mounted for good.
  5. After adjusting the lip on the doorskin, we test fitted the skins again onto the frame. The lower and upper section are pretty good, although in the middle we get some weird bump/tin canning when clamped on to the frame. My brother went to a local friend/body shop/classic porsche restoration shop to ask for some input. The owner told us it should be possible to remove the tin canning so there's that. However, just a couple of days ago, MVP announced that they'll also release doorskins for the 2002 in a month or two. Not sure if we should try and get doorskins from them or use what we currently have..
  6. After fitting the new doorskin on the repaired frame, we noticed the upper curve, where the belt line trim sits. Was a bit weak compared to the rear quarter panel. We decided to try and make it a bit more pronounced. My brother found a random paint can with the correct radius, a trip to the local steel yard and we get some tube in the same diameter (75mm). We supported the doorskin on some angle iron and cut two slots in the angle iron so the creas in the door skin sits on the lip of the angle iron. By using some clamps, we tightened the tube little by little untilt he radius was correct. No the new doorskin sits also a lot better against the door frame. Next up is welding in the door hinge panel and repairing two small spots. We might also try to transfer the door handle pocket over from old skin to the new as it could have been pressed a little better..
  7. Got the new lower section of the door frame welded in. The new flange got clamped against some box section, so we were sure it's flush with the existing frame. Clamping it down pretty tight also made sure the gap stayed nice and consistent. Fully welded And grinded smooth, minimal filler will be needed! The window frame brackets got spot welded again showing the before and after New drain hole, we drilled them a little closer to the edge. But not completely as we plan on running a bead of sealant in the corner of the frame and skin
  8. Got the new lower section welded in. The new flange got clamped against some box section, so we were sure it's flush with the existing frame. Clamping it down pretty tight also made sure the gap stayed nice and consistent. Fully welded And grinded smooth, minimal filler will be needed! The window frame brackets got spot welded again showing the before and after New drain hole, we drilled them a little closer to the edge. But not completely as we plan on running a bead of sealant in the corner of the frame and skin
  9. Thank you! I just used a caliper to measure some basic dimensions to get the overall shape close enough. I then model the sheet and base the dies from that model. It's a pretty basic Ender 3 pro
  10. Started on repairing my door frame I printed a couple dies to remake the corner pieces of the door frame Basic shape was there but some adjustment was needed A little bit of work with the hammer and chisel.. Welded! And finished Next up was removing the lower flange of the door frame. I got new plates bend up at a local fab shop Ready to weld in!
  11. Finally some more progress! The corner on the other side of the door was in pretty good shape. only the little triangle was a bit thin. So we removed this inner section and were able to keep the original pressed shape We were able to adjust the shape of the pressed sheet a little bit more with the use of a hammer and chisel. After some adjustment on the radius it was close to be welded in Clamped onto place Welded in And finished Next up was removing the lower flange of the door frame. I got new plates bend up at a local fab shop (I also asked some info from this guy when I made the dies to press in the indentation in the rain tray panel) Ready to weld in!
  12. Not wanting to hijack your thread, but if you are in need of the guide plates that sit under the aluminium rails, I still have a few in stock
  13. It's been a while but we started on repairing the drivers side door frame. I first made a small "panel" for the corner, I think this is originally only braced to the door frame but I decided to use the spot welder. After this, we cut out some rot on the flange that sits a cross both sides of the door frame and where the door skin is spotwelded onto The repair patch came from an other door we had cut up as a test.. After making sure the flange was nice and straight, we also welded it onto the door frame. (I didn't take any pictures of this) There was also a spot on the front side of the door, where the flange was mangled a little, this got cut out and some new metal got welded in. I also tried modeling the corner section of the door. After this, I modeled two molds to try and press the shape in some 0,8mm steel. The molds were 3D printed, after work I cut a small sheet and tried pressing. Turned out pretty ok. I will have to adjust the shape a bit with hammer & dolly but for the most part the shape it there.
  14. I mean the section where the top of the fenders get welded /lead seamed onto the nose, sticks out significantly. This is with the nose panel seated against the flange of the inner fenders. Thanks for the help so far guys!
  15. Yes, it did have an accident in the past. But we were able to straighten everything out. Going of from the Schutz I also assumed it probably is original. About the braces, I was talking about these sections, on the pictures you can also see these in place on my old reproduction nose. I didn't know original noses also had these. (problem with this nose is that it's seems like it's too short (at the corners where the fenders are welded to it) And there is 5mm gap between the lower support in the middle and the underside of the frame rails where they are welded to each other. I'm not sure how to correct this, without having to remove this support and weld it up higher. The fenders I got are old stock pieces, brand new. They had an old BMW sticker on them, so they are still good quality
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