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D.martijn

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About D.martijn

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  1. More rust repairs! Overall the floor pan is in pretty good shape. However a couple flanges for the floor plug have some heavy pitting and some parts are rusted away. Cut out the rust, make a patch panel and weld it in! Adding the little cut out for the plug and voila! Couple other spots that needed repairing. Top middle and bottom left part were replaced.
  2. Small update on the Touring, some more rust repairs! (what else!?) Overall the floor pan is in pretty good shape. However a couple flanges for the floor plug have some heavy pitting and some parts are rusted away. Nothing too serious though. Cut out the rust, make a patch panel and weld it in! Adding the little cut out for the plug and voila! We bought some correct floor plugs with the square indentation from a member on the forum, @jmbeatt2 Couple other spots that needed repairing. Top middle and bottom left part were replaced. And a hole was added in the W&N panel I previously welded in While my brother made these patch panels, I finished the inside of the firewall by smoothing out some left over welds. I also made a die to punch the indentation for the rain tray, this is just a rest piece as I still need to tweak it a little. But overall it looks promising!
  3. Hey man, Thanks you for you comment! Still got a long road a head before I even think about starting the build up again. I would think some 2part epoxy would be a better choice for this? Thanks, you too!
  4. I plan on doing the same thing on mine.. I also have some heavy pitting at the folded over lip 😐
  5. Turned the Touring onto it's side to have easier acces when grinding some of the remaining welds flush. On to the next welding job !
  6. Todat we flipped the Touring on it's side, to clean up the welds on underside of the floor and add a couple stitch welds where needed. My brother cleaned some of the remaining welds in the rear wheel wells I had already cleaned up a couple of them but not all on the passenger side floor. And the drivers side, while it was on it's side, I also made a little patch for the small hole I kept blowing through when welding in the new floor pan. Pretty happy on how these came out on the underside And cleaned up. I decided to also remove the paint from the W&N panel since it's not the best Couple of stitch welds on the front of the chassis rails And finished result!
  7. That does make me feel a bit better 😅 I mean, the hinge point of the strut is waaay further down so I don't think the 3mm difference on either side will be a big problem.. And thanks. I can't say it enough but I love that spotwelder. Best purchase I've made as of yet!
  8. Since wire EDMing the strut plates plates, we were now able to measure the distance between the two struts. We also decided to measure from the struts to the rear axle points and everything matches from left to right. The only measurement that seems to be off a bit it the width between the struts. They should be 99.6cm but ours measure 99.0cm? Not sure why this is measurement is off We decided to test fit the nose panel and the panel lines up nicely with the inner fenders. Any thoughts? This will probably result in some more camber right? However, since the nose panel matches up very nice with the inner fender, we went ahead and welded the reinforcemtn panel back in. I first plugwelded it from the holes we drilled to remove the old spot welds. After we grinded the plugwelds flush, we used the spot welder to add some more spot welds + this will make it all nice and OEM. Very happy with the results
  9. Another update on the Touring (finally) Couple of weekends ago, we spotwelded the left brake line bracket back into it's place. I also went a head and added some spotweld to the other one on the right side of the car. Just so it will all look equal once painted. Since wire EDMing the plates, we were now able to measure the distance between the two struts. We also decided to measure from the struts to the rear axle points and everything matches from left to right. The only measurement that seems to be off a bit it the width between the struts. They should be 99.6cm but ours measure 99.0cm? Not sure why this is measurement is off, we test fitted the nose panel and the panel lines up nicely with the inner fender. Before welding in the we also measured the distance between the rear axle and the front subframe and the diagonal lenghts are all the same. So we went ahead and welded in the left strut reinforcement panel I first plugwelded it from the holes we drilled to remove the old spot welds. After we grinded the plugwelds flush, we used the spot welded to add some more spot welds + this will make it all nice and OEM. We also added some on the right reinforcement panel since we had already weld this in before purchasing the spotwelder. Very happy with the results We also got ourselves a 3D printer, as some plastic parts are NLA. We might print a couple. I've had a first try at printing the front seat rails caps, turned out pretty good. (I got the .stl files from @PaulTWinterton)
  10. I've used the same type of nuts on my E30, I was able to get them off pretty easily when I needed to remove the exhaust again. However 16$ for 10 is pretty expensive! I think I paid 20 for 100 at a specialized hardware shop! Might be a good idea to also replace the studs themselves, I was able to back them out with the regular nuts tightened against each other.
  11. Haha there is plenty of other sophisticated machinery at the shop I have plans for some other parts as well. It takes a bit of time to figure out how to run/adjust the wire and ram EDM but once you have it up an running it's a cool process for sure! Thank you! I try my best
  12. Small update, have been mainly designing/making a couple of parts. First of were some new doorcard panels. These are still test pieces, a couple of holes need to be readjusted before making a couple. I might try and sell some as well if there is interest. As well as the hatch/boot trim panel for the Touring Next up were some simple steel plates. Before welding in the left strut support piece we wanted to measure the distance between the two and also front to rear. Last week, I made a couple of plates that fit inside of the hole for the strut. I made these with our wire edm machine at work. The hole in the center is for using some wire and a plumb bob. While the machine was running, I decided to try and make some new hinges for our Gold sunroof, starting with measuring the original hinges and drawing them up in CAD. I'll mill the steps and wire EDM the countour, for the plastic guide pieces I might make a small mold to pour resin. And this weekend, I decided test making some steering box shims. These are made out of some stainless steel shims stock. Again, using the wire EDM to cut these out.
  13. I work at a machining shop, primarily working on plastic injection moulds but we make all sorts of parts for other sectors (mfg, medical, space..) as well. I have acces to pretty much every machine. Although have little experience on a lathe. I used our wire EDM to cut these shims out of inox shim stock. First I drilled start holes for the wire to pass through the cut the holes and contour further by clamping several sheets of shim stock between sacrificial plates of regular sheet metal.
  14. Hey guys, I was wondering if there is any interest in new steering box shims as it very common for these to become rusty. I'm able to make these from stainless steel shim stock, whatever thickness up to 0,02mm. However, I was wondering what thicknesses are requested. If I recall correctly BMW has 0,1 - 0,12 - 0,15 and 0,3mm thick shims. Any other thickness that's nessecary? As a test I cut some 0,3 - 0,15 - 0,1 - 0,05 and 0,02mm shims today.
  15. The original hinges are made of some kind of pot metal. I'm planning on making these out of some aluminum. It should be possible to print the guide plates but I'm not sure it a printer can get the small details right like the little ridge in the center of the guide piece. Yes, there are two kinds of hinges, a "normal" one and one with a section removed. Will be making both pieces. Yeah, it's very nice being able to use these machines after hours (5axis mill, wire edm, sinker edm, lathe, CMM....) I have a couple of other parts in mind as well.. 🙂


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