Jump to content

D.martijn

Solex
  • Content Count

    438
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4
  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

404 Excellent

3 Followers

About D.martijn

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array

Recent Profile Visitors

2,952 profile views
  1. A little bit further from where I live an (I think) older gentleman also has an unimog. Bright orange, I once saw him driving it down the road, too cool! 🤩
  2. I got a message from a friend that he needed a tap and die for his E30, I told him to come to our workshop when I was done with working. While waiting for him to arrive, I test fitted the new fender a little more, very pleased! It would have been a shame trying to adjust the reproduction ones as these are pretty much spot on. (time wise) I decided to also clamp the inner support piece, to check fitment of the mounting holes Nice and flush with the doors
  3. Yes! Only a couple km from München we first thought about making a weekend out of it and also visiting the BMW museum but it's still closed because of covid..
  4. Found some NOS fenders in Germany (where esle right.. ) After 1660km of driving we arrived back home with our find. The guy selling these was a real enthusiast, he even works together with Schnitzer to make replica E9 race cars, He even invited us to come to the Nürburgring when they have a test day in the future lol. He also has this.. not registered since 1980!! I gave one panel a very quick test fit and am very pleased! We definitely made the right call to buy some original sheet metal
  5. Before going ahead and removing the old door skins on the doors, we wanted to fit the fenders. However, we bought some repro's at the start of our restoration but as most of you know, the quality of these it pretty poor. So we set out to find some reasonably priced genuine fenders. Took some searching but I was able to source two NOS fenders, from an old production run. After 1660km of driving we arrived back home with our find. The guy selling these as a real enthusiast, he even worked together with Schnitzer to make replica E9 race cars He also has this.. not registered since 1980!! I gave one panel a very quick test fit and am very pleased! We definitely made the right call to buy some original sheet metal
  6. Finally got the rain scuttle welded in. We first spot-welded the newly made firewall isolation clips into their place. I got the old ones of by using the power file which made quick and easy work of this. Glad I remade these in the correct gauge/thickness. Also test fitted an old rubberdrain hose to check the oval hole that needed to be remade in the middle. On to the next job!
  7. Finally got the rain scuttle spot-welded in. We first spot-welded the newly made firewall isolation clips into their place. I got the old ones of by using the power file which made quick and easy work of this. Glad I remade these in the correct gauge/thickness. Also test fitted an old rubberdrain hose to check the oval hole that needed to be remade in the middle. On to the next job!
  8. This week I received the reproduction doorskins from Jaymic in th UK. Very pleased with the result, however the pocket for the door handle could have been formed a little bit better. I'm not sure if I'll leave it like this or cut out the original section from the old skins, any suggestions/input? I also planished the rain tray a little more, added the original wiring clips back. (After talking to a 02 owner in Belgium, he send me pictures of his rain tray and on this the same clips are used like I'm making at the moment.) On mine they are a little narrower + longer. First I spot welded the speed nuts plates on the back, these are used to fix the hinge plate for the throttle on the carb. Carefully removed the paint and added some weld thru primer where the clips need to be spotwelded On the back side of the rain tray (the side facing the firewall) there is some small step between the original piece and the repair panel I welded in. This is mainly because of the thickness of the plates. However, I remembered taking of the original sound deadning and turns out it'll cover this step. It's hard to see on photo though I also prepared the underside of the hood latch panel with weld through primer where I need to spotweld the panels together.
  9. This week I received the reproduction doorskins from Jaymic in th UK. Very pleased with the result, however the pocket for the door handle could have been formed a little bit better. I'm not sure if I'll leave it like this or cut out the original section from the old skins, any suggestions/input? I also planished the rain tray a little more, added the original wiring clips back. (After talking to a 02 owner in Belgium, he send me pictures of his rain tray and on this the same clips are used like I'm making at the moment.) On mine they are a little narrower + longer. First I spot welded the speed nuts plates on the back, these are used to fix the hinge plate for the throttle on the carb. Carefully removed the paint and added some weld thru primer where the clips need to be spotwelded On the back side of the rain tray (the side facing the firewall) there is some small step between the original piece and the repair panel I welded in. This is mainly because of the thickness of the plates. However, I remembered taking of the original sound deadning and turns out it'll cover this step. It's hard to see on photo though I also prepared the underside of the hood latch panel with weld through primer where I need to spotweld the panels together.
  10. I know this will sound random, but I managed to find (to me at least) most accurate picture of the splatter finish. On this photo stock website..... if only there was a way to contact this person and ask how he managed to get this finish. lol https://nl.123rf.com/photo_80091499_black-texture-paint-rough-grunge-seamless-background-abstract-black-background-texture.html
  11. I'm currently also in the process (for a while now) trying to figure out the best way to achieve this finish. I got my hinges already put in black satin paint. I tried using some kind of "sand" paint, which makes up for the smaller spots/drops I just need to find a way to get consistent small, shinier dots/splatters on top of this coat. I've tried a paint brush and flicking it but I get some bigger splatters that are too big.
  12. In preparation to welding in the repaired rain tray, we decided to sandblast the underside of the window sill & the hood latch panel. I just need to replace the old isolation pad clips with some new ones I made up. I am now selling these as well if you're interested. A wile back I made some new shims for the steering box, while going through the blue books again, I noticed that the bearings need a specific friction. I converted the numbers and it should have 0,1 - 0,24Nm of friction. I decided to look for a small torque screwdriver, after telling a co worker. He pointed out we had one at work! Interval of 0,05Nm, should be accurate enough for the steering box. I also ordered new full door skins from Jaymic, I'm curious on how they will look/fitt. Pictures looked promising!
  13. Last weekend I finished up the new isolation pad clips for the engine bay, only think left was making the chamfered corners I printed a little jig to get a nice consistent 45° chamfer, I went back to work and used he disc sander I've made some then enough claps so it you also need some, send me a pm! In preparation to welding in the repaired raintray, we decided to sandblast the underside of the window sill & the hood latch panel. Turned out great A wile back I made some new shims for the steering box, while going through the blue books again, I noticed that the bearing need a specific friction. I converted the numbers and it should have 0,1 - 0,24Nm of friction. I decided to get a small torque screwdriver, after telling a co worker. He pointed out we had one at work! Interval of 0,05Nm, should be accurate enough for the steering box. I also ordered new full door skins from Jaymic, I'm curious on how they will look/fitt. Pictures looked promising!
  14. My local replating company told me the bolts can be rusty, greasy etc. only paint needs to be remove prior to replating them. I guess they strip them with some sort of acid..
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.