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Markster

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by Markster

  1. Bad valve guides? I got a bad set and my machinist caught the error in time. They were tapered on the id. really interesting thanks for sharing mark z
  2. Ok I now have an idle of 1000 and 17.5 inches on the vacuum by going a bit further on the ignition advance. I also do not get a feeling that she’s pre-ignition at high speed low or high revs. Plugs are also way better. Compression is also great at 165-170 I think 2.5 degree on the IE 292 cam is where it will stay. thanks @John76 that little bit of timing advance got me some more vacuum. IMG_6149.mov IMG_6148.mov
  3. And furthermore what I think is detonation at the high end I asked Chat to tell me how that might feel - as I do not hear pinging - ... But I do feel less power at 75 and even a bit of vibration. So I will go back to 1.5 degree advance on the cam and re time it and see what that feels like. I thought the machinist took off 70 thousandths. Detonation, also known as engine knocking, can be felt and heard in different ways. Here are some common ways you may feel or perceive detonation: Engine Vibrations: Detonation can cause noticeable vibrations throughout the engine and sometimes even the entire vehicle. You may feel these vibrations as roughness or shaking during acceleration or while driving under load. Loss of Power: If detonation occurs, you may experience a significant loss of engine power. The engine may feel sluggish and less responsive, especially during acceleration or when climbing hills. Engine Overheating: Detonation can contribute to increased engine temperatures. If you notice that your engine is running hotter than usual, it could be a sign of detonation occurring. Poor Acceleration: Detonation can negatively impact acceleration performance. You may find that your vehicle struggles to accelerate smoothly or feels slower than usual when you press on the gas pedal. Unusual Exhaust Noise: While detonation is primarily heard as a knocking or pinging sound, in some cases, you may also notice changes in the exhaust note. It can sound abnormal, with a metallic or rattling quality. It's important to note that detonation should be taken seriously as it can lead to engine damage if left unaddressed. If you suspect detonation or experience any of these symptoms, it's recommended to have your engine checked by a qualified mechanic. They can diagnose the issue and take appropriate measures to prevent further damage, which may include adjusting the valve timing or addressing other potential causes of detonation, such as incorrect fuel octane rating, carbon buildup, or inadequate engine cooling.
  4. OK I used AI to get me some answers. @chatgpt. This seems legit to me. Especially the last paragraph - hahah. I assure you all that is probably the best advice! But this is really fun. Adjusting the valve timing by 1.5 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) and 2.5 degrees BTDC can have noticeable effects on engine performance, although the specific impact may vary depending on various factors, including the engine design, load conditions, and other engine parameters. Here's a general comparison of the two scenarios: 1.5 Degrees BTDC: Improved Low-End Power: Advancing the valve timing by 1.5 degrees BTDC can enhance low-end power and torque, making the engine more responsive at lower RPMs. Potential for Reduced High-End Power: While low-end power improves, advancing the timing by 1.5 degrees BTDC may cause a slight reduction in high-end power. This is because advancing the timing too much can lead to less time for the combustion process at higher RPMs. 2.5 Degrees BTDC: Further Low-End Power Improvement: Advancing the valve timing by an additional 1 degree (compared to 1.5 degrees BTDC) can offer further gains in low-end power and torque, enhancing acceleration and responsiveness. Increased Risk of Detonation: Advancing the timing by 2.5 degrees BTDC increases the risk of detonation or engine knocking. Detonation occurs when the air-fuel mixture ignites prematurely, leading to potential engine damage if left unaddressed. It's important to monitor the engine for signs of knocking and adjust the timing accordingly. It's worth noting that the optimal valve timing setting depends on several factors, and it's recommended to consult with a qualified mechanic or an engine tuner who can analyze the specific characteristics of your engine, consider your driving requirements, and fine-tune the valve timing accordingly.
  5. Hi John! Absolutely. I plan to try what you suggested. I just want to button up the valve timing project as well. I believe I have tried to further advance the ignition timing but found the engine ran poorly. I failed to monitor the vacuum at that point. I will let you know.
  6. Will do when I return home. Curious though how would a 2.5 degree advance manifest vs a 1.5 degree advance? (Valve timing) she may be bogged down at 75 mph@2.5 advanced on the ie gear. I can’t really tell. If I go to 1.5 advance again do I have it right that I will get more torque on low and perhaps fix the boggles at 85 mph? Valve timing gurus please comment?
  7. I have given it a go on the ie adjustable cam gear. It took about an hour to install. 1.5 degree was good so I decided to tear it apart and try 2.5. Hard to decide if it is better than 2.5. if I understand it the 2.5 degrees advance vs the 1.5 degrees advance is better power in the higher revs. That seems to be my case too. I am satisfied w 2.5 degrees settling the rough idle, poor vacuum, fouled plugs are things of the past I hope. vacuum has improved and with the correct gauge tyvm @Son of Marty though not has high as I would like. Plugs look a lot less fouled. Idle is way better @950 vs 1100. 123 ignition “tuning” I adjust to 6-7 degrees b4 tdc. Need to set the timing w my timing light and do a final tune on the carb and not rely on 123. Wifey calls and I had to stop the fun! one casualty in this project (swapped the cam position for two test runs) was a m6x1 on the timing cover came out w some thread from the head. I ordered a TimeSert to fix that. @dieschleifrally???? Fix that m6 or just go for it? IMG_6122.mov IMG_6123.mov
  8. OK - From a guy in the vacuum business (industrial vacuum) this is all pretty enlightening!). My gauge arrives tomorrow! Got me a Lisle. 25 bucks on Amazon. I think what we are going to see is my valve timing the issue! Can't wait. I think this thread is a good one for folks to learn from!
  9. I can do this tonight. I think I am pretty much here but wont hurt to re-do it. but what about that vacuum gauge behavior?
  10. this is a 38/38 jetted from IE. I did set it up - had to advance the idle screw about a half turn - so that butterfly is slightly open on idle. Otherwise the idle is too low to run. 950 rpm is where I ended up. idle mixture are set at 3 turns. I can turn them down to 1.5 and see little change -
  11. hi Dono - the vacuum in the video is fluctuating rapidly between 18 and 9 inhg. One thought is the conductance of my connection - @john76 suggests if I decrease my diameter tube and perhaps lengthen it I would in see less fluctuation. - reasonable suggestion. would probably slow the rapid switching back and forth - but would be masking it. Another thought is I am reading only the last cylinder - so move my diagnostic port to center - OK that seems reasonable too.
  12. Thanks. I have moved to “using vacuum gauge to diagnose problems” let’s continue there.
  13. John! That’s helpful. I moved this question to a new thread. It’s called “using vacuum gauge to diagnose problems” let’s continue there! Thanks again!
  14. Hello all. A member suggested I move my question here. I have a Frankenstein engine that I am the doctor of. It is a m10 with 1mm over maxsil pistons, a Weber 38/38. A 292 cam from IE. A rebuilt and refaced head. A header/exhaust from W&N. 123 ignition. what is wrong with my Engine is it runs really rough at idle. Plenty of power. Lots of smell of fuel in exhaust. Ignition timing is advanced to max. No pings at all. Compression is ok at 150. Leak down test was difficult to perform because the engine wanted to turn but I got very strong results in each cylinder about three months ago. when she’s warm she idles but it is rough. so…. The “doc” says oh it’s the mechanical valve timing because you milled the head. (I have not the head dimension but I recall the machinist saying ah don’t worry about it. I think it is at least .035 and probably more. I do not recall him decking the block. so. I have an adjustable cam gear I might try. Before I do that I figured let me look at vacuum w my trusty vacuum brake bleeder tool. I disconnected the vacuum booster line and plugged my gauge in there. I am using a Pierce manifold if that helps. Frankenstein is mostly a one year old guy. So no prior working DNA. 😀 IMG_6072.mov And yikes. What do you guys see? Is this solved by advancing the cam w the IE adjustable cam? I could give it a go before the Brisbane meet this weekend. IMG_6072.mov
  15. Oh heck let’s add to the mix. It’s an ie 292 cam. Bought it back in 2015.
  16. Ok enough screwing around. I need some help.
  17. Ok I am getting ready to put in the adjustable cam gear from Irelang Engineering. That’s not a typo either. so one last check I did was vacuum at idle hot. I was looking for the vacuum gage to confirm my suspicions. I hooked up to the booster. 123 distributor. head milled not sure how much! 292 cam, 38/38 Weber. IMG_6072.mov Is my cam timing the issue? Crazy.
  18. Thanks John! It’s from Speedhut. And yes there is a constant on 12 v, a dash 12 v and the ground. I went w the LED backlight. A couple hours more (console installation) cluster reinstall and I should make it to cars and coffee this weekend. I am playing w different led lights for the cluster to match the clock and console gauges. Almost there. Maybe tomorrow.
  19. I don’t know what to call it but hey I like it. The leather on the outside was my son’s idea. runs off the battery (bypassed the kill switch) and it has a cool button to press and the hands spin around to correct the time. Gotta mount that somewhere. Glovebox maybe. puncturing my new dash was the most nerve racking part. I used a hot metal object because there is no metal back there. Went well. A bit stinky w searing vinyl. But good. Big 2.5 inch washer in back behind dash for rigidity. I drilled it for the wires to come through. Tube is 60 mm long. Had to add this video. IMG_5733.MOV
  20. Here is a test fit before I drill the dash. 😳 I’m gonna sleep on it. I think it’s great but I still need to sleep on it.
  21. I have max-sill pistons too. What rings did you use? Do the have Teflon on the skirts? Mine do. Just curious about the rings u chose. ?
  22. Indeed. I am familiar with labyrinth seals. I am the Jamoke that cut the rings too. It was my first m10 rebuild.
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