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xr4tic

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Everything posted by xr4tic

  1. xr4tic
    I've got $5K into my M10 rebuild, without the 5-speed swap cost. I regret not going F20. Here's my M10 cost breakdown, nothing super fancy here: I'll have another $1K into it for EFI, planning for turbo later. And for everyone saying "just turbo the M10", afaik, there is no readily available turbo kit, so there will be fab work involved with that with an EFI conversion needed first.
  2. xr4tic
    I just took a look at mine, car sitting on the ground, the ends are parallel with the frame, and the middle/front is angled down. The other thing to watch out for is the metal washers on the end links, I had to grind mine down on the sides so they wouldn't hit the sides of the control arm.
  3. xr4tic
    Not a chance. I don't remember the exact details, but the stock mounts would have to be cut out of the car, some new mounts welded in, and I think even some cutting/welding on the wrx seat mounts. I ended up going with a set of Corbeau seats I picked up off of CL cheap.
  4. xr4tic
    Interesting, is the car slammed to the ground or something? I can't imagine someone angling them unless they had severely altered the ride height. Or maybe to clear some small rims? IDK.
  5. xr4tic
    It worked just fine 45 years ago lol. But if you really want to DD an '02, that's fine, but I highly recommend a cheap 4x4 pickup with a working heater for those winter months.
  6. xr4tic
    I will add to this: Buy the best car you can afford, $10K-$15K is probably about right, just don't expect a "perfect" car, these are 45+ year old cars and are bound to have small issues no matter the price. I went the cheap route, paid $4k for mine, lots of rust, didn't run, and I've put at least $20k into it (lots of mods), and it's still not on the road (really close though, although I'm sure I said that last year too)
  7. xr4tic
    For some reason, it won't let me select 2 pictures in a response? This is just angle iron welded up, was able to use 4 gauge wire for the starter/ground, 8 gauge for the alt/main power. If you did a remote mount, you need to double that gauge.
  8. xr4tic
    To update this thread, I did the Li-ION battery as @NYNick did My homemade mount weighs more than the battery.
  9. xr4tic
    The W&N floor pan isn't a perfect fit to the original frame rail either, but mine was closer than yours. That bump at the rear of the pan is supposed to line up with the end of the frame rail flange, it also looks like the frame rail flange is overlapping the round drain plug area, so make sure that isn't pushing the pan up. Maybe you can slide the pan further back and see if it matches up better?
  10. xr4tic
    Easy, E39 M5, because I already have one.
  11. xr4tic
    Any idea how many gallons you needed? Did you use the Sound Control or the Heat Insulation or both? The Heat Insulation is the one with ceramic in it.
  12. xr4tic
    It says Made FOR America, not Made IN America. Made in Taiwan/China, which is why they're cheap.
  13. xr4tic
    What are your plans for HP/Torque and how will you drive it? Drag racing with hard launches? Sure, go for it. Or better yet slap in a Ford 9" (somewhat kidding) For street use it seems to be serious overkill.
  14. xr4tic
    Wiring is all hooked up, but I need to rethink my plan of trying to tuck this under the dash. Think it's going to end up in the center console area. Fuel system all done and wired up. Car fires right up. More details here:
  15. xr4tic
    Nice, what's your setup? Were the dyno runs on different days? That would certainly explain it, really should be back-to-back runs.
  16. xr4tic
    is the rotor fully seated on the hub? I thought the hubs had to be clearanced for the rotors, maybe it's hanging up or offset a bit? Should be easy to diagnose by taking the wheel off, bolting the rotor tight to the hub, and rotating it.
  17. xr4tic
    Last I checked, lead acid batteries can explode too. We should just go back to hand cranks on cars. Or maybe some people like putting new technology on old cars?
  18. xr4tic
    Thanks, it's a complete re-wire of the engine bay, with a new fuse box located inside. It's almost done, just need to make some time to finish it up.
  19. xr4tic
    This 480: https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/restart-oem/atx12-hd-rs/ I got one in mine, and since it's so light and small, I put it in the stock location:
  20. xr4tic
    Are they going to do the glove compartment door as well? I put a cover on my dash, but the glove compartment door is way off color, and I suspect it would look awful next to new vinyl.
  21. xr4tic
    To stir it up some more, I'm regretting not going that route over rebuilding my M10 Maybe on the next 2002......
  22. xr4tic
    I've been eyeing the RHD setup: https://racehead.com.au/product/bmw-m10-complete-itb-kit-includes-gloss-carbon-air-box/ My concern is it hitting my non-ti booster, pretty sure it wouldn't clear at all.
  23. xr4tic
    if you had the yellow dashed line fresh air entry, wouldn't the other VC port just suck that air straight back out without pulling anything from the crankcase?
  24. xr4tic
    Nice, how much does one box weigh?
  25. xr4tic
    I would say weld it up with a one piece flange, grind it flat if needed, and then cut the flange between each runner. Also make sure the bolt holes are big enough to allow for some expansion. I had a cast log manifold on my Audi and it kept bowing out from the middle, I had to surface it every time I pulled it off. Making cuts between the runners helped.
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