xr4tic

Let me know if you want some measurements/pictures, mine is sitting in the basement. The manifold is ~4 5/8" center to center, with a slight angle. I asked him if it handled boost, he didn't answer. He did say it *should* clear the booster. It's about 12" overall length. I suspect worst case is that one of the trumpets will hit, but I'll find out (eventually) Getting an air filter on it will probably be the hard part.

Yep, I was real close to buying a Webcon. The big plus (for me) was that I had a Weber 38 already and it would have been a straight bolt on. No messing with adapter plates and trying to figure out a throttle linkage. The EFI stuff you were going to need for almost anything else anyways (besides a Sniper) At the time, the exchange rate wasn't that great, so for a little more money, I just bought the Racehead ITB kit instead. ITBs are what I really wanted anyways, it's just a bigger hassle to install. I've been procrastinating on installing it, but it looks real nice sitting on my shelf. My Weber is now pouring fuel out the accel pump after sitting all winter, so now seems like a good time.

I was referring more to the base and size of the throttle bores, since the 2bbl units were made for V8s. You're not going to get a good transition from the TBI bores to a stock 2 barrel manifold. A one barrel would probably transition nicely, but ugh, one barrel lol.

I've been seeing this thread pop up in my emails and now I'm also curious, what is your goal? You originally stated stealth EFI, have you seen the Webcon Retroject? https://www.webcon.co.uk/products/15299-retroject-3838-throttle-body/ It's not the cheapest way for stealth EFI, but also not the most expensive. Someone at one point in time was trying to adapt an old GM TBI unit to a stock manifold, that would be the cheap way to go. I picked up a 2 barrel GM TBI unit to mock it up, but it's way too big, probably much like the Sniper 2 barrel setup. The one barrel GM units would probably work better since they had them on 4 cylinder engines, but going from a 2 barrel carb to a one barrel TBI unit just didn't appeal to me.

Stainless is really hard to work with. I had a bad experience with a pre-bent brake line stainless kit and swore it off after that. It doesn't bend easily and because it's so hard, it caused sealing issues with the flares. Functionally, unnecessary for fuel delivery and expensive. But if you want to brag to your friends, go for it.

I like the nickel copper stuff, internet opinion consensus indicates it's better than aluminum, for whatever that's worth. For the tube fittings, I used Swagelok stainless fittings. I bought them from here for $9 each 5 years ago, and they're still the same price SS-600-6-6AN Swagelok Tube Fitting, Union, 3/8 in. Tube OD x 3/8 in. AN Tube Flare SURPLUSVALVESFITTINGS.COM Surplus SS-600-6-6AN Swagelok Tube Fitting, Union, 3/8 in. Tube OD x 3/8 in. AN Tube Flare. The Best Prices and Quick Delivery!

Nope, I barely have the time to work on my own cars, let alone stuff for other people. I feel with modern lithium-ion batteries, remote mounting batteries is a thing of the past. They're lightweight, a fraction of the size of a normal battery, and no drawbacks of remote mounting (heavy cable runs, voltage drop, possibilities of shorting out, etc) To each their own, I'm merely showing an alternative that people might not have thought of.

I made it out of angle steel.

You say you want to make room, how much do you need? A small battery in the engine compartment works just as well and you don't need to run big heavy cables through your cabin.

It's certainly an option, but not one I am interested in. It's not water resistant at all, I don't see a single seal on it anywhere. The Bussman has a seal on the lid (and certainly no vent holes to let dust/water in) and each individual wire has a seal where it enters the bottom (standard automotive stuff)

My car is wired up and running, but not finished. I haven't touched it all winter, something else is taking up all my time: Here's how it was 2 years ago: Littelfuse HWB18 - 3 relays/fuses, (two for lights, one for fogs (future use)) plus another fuse/relay for the electric fan Hidden behind the headlight, there will be a cover over this area Here's how it is now after I got the interior in it last year: I made a spreadsheet that mapped old wire colors to new wire colors (for a 76) and how I layed the Bussman out. BMW 2002 Wiring - Google Sheets DOCS.GOOGLE.COM Sheet1 Orig. color,New Color,Gauge,18,14,12 1,Right Running Light,Gray/White,White,18,Black,Tach,Starter 2,Left Running Light,Gray/Yellow,Yellow,18,Red,Cooling Fan Relay Power (Ignition),Wiper,Fuse Box/Ignition... Some random thoughts/recommendations/things I screwed up, in no particular order. 1. One nice thing about this is that it removes the ignition switch as a current source for all power, now it's handled by 2 relays. 2. I wired from the outside to inside. Don't do that. It's part of the reason I now have a huge bundle of wires under the dash, plus the crimps make for a bulkier harness. 3. I put in delphi connectors between the fuse box and wiring harness. Also, don't do that. It makes for a bulkier bundle of wires under the dash. The thought was I could pull the harness out of the car in the future by unplugging the fuse box and pulling the connectors through the firewall, but that probably will never happen. If it did, I would look into DEUTSCH HD30 style bulkhead connectors (The Delphi bulkhead connector was too big/awkward to get it to fit) 4. The Bussman is too big to fit under the dash panels with the cover on. You might be able to not use the cover and have it butt up against the under panel. I may end up having the cover jut out from the dash panels (that I don't even have) 5. Have a fully assembled interior before deciding what to do. I had the dash/console/steering column out when I came up with my plan. Things got tight quick once everything was installed. 6. In hindsight, I wish I would have put it in the glove box, but I already had the wires crimped together before I realized it, now it won't reach. 7. When I add EFI, I will need another fuse/relay box, which will most likely end up in the glove box. 8. I may just leave it as it sits now until I do my ITB/EFI upgrade, and then extend the fuse box to the glove compartment with the EFI stuff. 9. The original headlight wiring had all power provided by the light switch, I tried to use just 2 relays but have the power provided by the battery, but either my schematic didn't work or I wired it wrong (when I turn on the highs, the highs turn on, but when I turn them off, they don't turn off, the relay is staying energized somehow) or maybe it's a bad relay. 3 relays would work for sure, but it seems like 2 should be doable. I know Andrew mentioned a Miata battery under the rear seat, but I still think this is the best solution:

I haven't driven the car much, it's still a work in progress, so I don't have any driving impressions other than it worked just fine when I drove it around the block a couple times this year. I had to get new flywheel to crank bolts, the original ones were either too short or too long (it's been a while) and I think the bolts are different depending on which flywheel you currently have (215 vs 228) I think I just got some ARP bolts, but again, it's been a while.

What are those and what was the fix for your driveshaft alignment? I think I'm going to have the same issue, I feel like the engine sits higher with new mounts and I can't raise the rear of the trans any higher.

This is the thread I was thinking of, but it was for an M42 using a Getrag 240 for an M10 that already had a mechanical speedo. So basically, you need a M10 Getrag 240 that has a mechanical speedo in order to have a mechanical speedo lol. To make things worse, if you already have a 240 installed w/o a speedo, you would need to make a new trans mount if you got a 240 with a speedo (mechanical speedo 240 is a single mount vs. dual mount with the elec speedo 240) If you're deadset on stock looks, the Speedhut Speedbox is the way to go, otherwise a GPS 3 3/8" speedo is cheaper but requires more work to install (but way cheaper/easier than finding/installing a mech speedo 240)

Someone had posted a how-to, but you're basically canibalizing another trans to swap the cases, not exactly a DIY for most. Speedhut sells GPS speedometers that fit into our clusters with some modifications, you can even customize them the face to match the stock crosshairs. I didn't though, I like the black look (used their tach as well)

Absolutely, especially at idle. If the spark is retarded, the mixture won't fully ignite leading to a rich condition.

Kind of like the early bumpers.

I like big bumpers and I can not lie.... As long as they're tucked properly.

yes, you'll want the trumpets, they smooth the airflow into the throttle bodies, without them it can cause turbulence and hurt performance. They also usually require a minimum distance between the opening and the filter, at least an inch, but more is better. So if the trumpets are an inch off the backplate, you'll need a minimum of a 2" deep filter (inside depth)

I've got scribbles/notes jotted down on various pieces of paper strewn about. I'll see what I can gather up.

I made it, welded up some angle iron and bolted it in. The tray weighs more than the battery lol. Aluminum would have been better, but I haven't attempted to weld that yet.

So I'll chime in with what I've done. First, don't put the battery in the trunk. What exactly are you trying to solve for? Space? The easy solution is a Lithium battery, weighs 7 lbs, super small, and you won't have to worry about voltage drop with too small wires. Second, think about the fuse box you want and where you want to put it. Mine is going under the dash somewhere, but in hindsight, I should have put it by the glove box (or in it) I went this route: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/ Third, I highly recommend using relays to stop running high current through the ignition and light switches. Not sure about your 69, but my 76 had two ignition circuits (green wire + purple wire) coming off the ignition switch, I made those trigger a relay, then had all the circuits run through the relay. So inside, I have 4 relays: 2 for ignition circuits, one for fuel pump, one for horn. For the lights, I have a two relays hidden behind the headlight to run them plus a 3rd relay for an electric cooling fan. These are close to the battery, so the headlights get full power. For wiring, I have 4 AWG to the starter + engine ground + body ground 8 AWG to the alternator + running inside to a separate 4 fuse distribution block that feeds the main fuse block (12 AWG) I bought 11 color packs of 12/14/18 AWG TXL wire from WireBarn: Wire Barn Color Pack 12AWG You'll need to make yourself a wiring diagram, figure out where to use each color and size. I pulled the original engine bay harness into the interior, ran all new wires into the engine bay, then spliced things in to the fuse box I made. Pics:

How easy will it be to change a fuse if you pop one?

Try Magnecor, pretty sure they can make just about anything, you'll need to know the length you want though - https://magnecorusa.com/custom/ Taylor makes a universal LS set, you have to crimp them though - https://www.taylorvertex.com/spark-plugs/ls-wires/ Use normal plugs, might be able to gap them a bit bigger.

I've got a 240 as well, no problems yet. There are 2 different versions, one with a single trans mount, one with a dual. Your trans crossmember will need to be made accordingly. I had a dual mount version but only had room to install one mount because the IE downpipe was in the way of the other. You'll have to cut the stock brackets off. I had to clearance a few spots with a hammer (around the slave cylinder) and then do some pushing using a crowbar to get a little extra clearance here and there. Also I highly recommend attaching the reverse switch wires before it's all the way up. I didn't, and currently don't have reverse lights because the only way to attach them without dropping the trans would be to drill a large hole in the trans tunnel to gain access. My homemade crossmember bolted through the floorpan, I'll redo this eventually with something easier to remove.