Jump to content

xr4tic

Kugelfischer
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    694

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by xr4tic

  1. xr4tic
    Just like the Retroject, if you've already got the manifold and whatnot in place, you're paying for convenience/looks.
  2. xr4tic
    Do you need full sequential fuel and timing? Bank fire fuel + wasted spark will run just as well. If you're tuning to the edge for a race motor, sure, go full sequential. For a street motor, not necessary (IMHO) I did see someone modify a distributor housing to act as a cam sensor, but there will always be some play in that type of assembly that kind of defeats the purpose.
  3. xr4tic
    What amp did you decide on?
  4. xr4tic
    Which Weber do you have? Looks like a 32/36 spacer. A 38 ideally needs the holes transitioned in.
  5. xr4tic
    It's a common rust area, along with the frame that extends under the floorpan. This is what I had to deal with (PO had previously did a bad patch job) I also had to replace the pedal box, it had a lot of rust holes in it. I blogged about my repair process:
  6. xr4tic
    I always thought the TBI systems were batch fire, all injectors firing at once, since you have a common plenum. If you had a dual plane manifold, then having them fire at different times would make more sense.
  7. xr4tic
    possibly the passenger door light switch wire.
  8. xr4tic
    Not sure if he ever finished it. I picked up a 2 barrel TBI unit off fleabay, but it's pretty big, might be too much for a 4 cyl.
  9. xr4tic
    I got pistons, rods, and valvetrain components from IE Normal parts like bearings, gaskets, timing chain, etc, I got from FCP and Blunt, you can shop around for this stuff. https://www.iemotorsport.com/ https://www.fcpeuro.com/ https://www.blunttech.com/ I created a list of stuff I bought for my rebuild a few years ago, gives you an idea of what you might need: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16RBgV9z5U47pUFD6k0kiMBs5vNIHgsGx2FEG62VgCo0/edit?usp=sharing
  10. xr4tic
    Does the car run rough? A too rich condition (or cylinder not firing) can actually read lean, if the fuel isn't burned, O2 isn't used up, so it reads lean. Also make sure there are no exhaust leaks ahead of the sensor. But it's most likely as Jim says, I'd check the gauge, do a free-air calibration.
  11. xr4tic
    I seriously thought about the Retroject. Pros: Bolt-on(ish) All the sensors are built in idle valve is built in Keeps the classic carb look in the engine bay Cons: Price Won't gain much HP over a normal Weber Lots of people will tell you to just do a 318 EFI, but you need to source all the parts (manifold, coolant outlet, coolant line), fab/buy an idle adapter, fab a throttle linkage solution, fab/buy a TPS adapter, and/or upgrade the TB (stock is pretty small), IMHO, I'm not crazy about the 318 EFI manifold looks either. HP should be about the same as a Weber 38, but have better drivability/cold start/MPG No matter what solution you choose, you'll still need a fuel pump, ECU, and possibly crank trigger if you want to go distributorless ignition. Personally, I wasn't concerned about the price tag, but I eventually wanted to do ITBs, so I decided it was best to just spend the money on them instead (Winter project)
  12. xr4tic
    Some details in the link below. As to the price, you're paying for convenience, it's the closest thing to bolt-on for our cars, but it still requires some modifications.
  13. xr4tic
    I had no problem getting ahold of them last week in regards to a wrong part sent (shocker?) and they called me back with an update after they received it. They have some nice stuff you can't get elsewhere, but pretty much every order I've placed with them had a wrong part in it.
  14. xr4tic
    I installed a Mr Cool 24K DIY unit late last year (Octoberish), 24x30 garage with 12' ceilings. It does work for heating, but don't expect miracles. I used a propane heater to help get the garage up to temp when outside temps where below freezing. Also, it draws a lot of electricity, expect a 3-4 KWh increase while it's heating. I haven't had a chance to try A/C yet, but they're much more efficient at cooling than heating.
  15. xr4tic
    HD Rubber mounts, we'll see how much it moves. Shifts are way shorter than I thought, should be fine. The main issue is the shift rod comes out of the trans at a slight angle, so the shifter leans to the right. I might have to get an adjustable DSSR just so I can rotate it.
  16. xr4tic
    Built an adapter for the passenger Corbeau seat finally, re-did the e-brake bringing the bolts inside the original area, and installed an AKG shifter. Almost ready to install Carpet
  17. xr4tic
    Here's a thread with some info with links to other threads with more info. Find a combo close to yours and try it out.
  18. xr4tic
    Just measured the nylon spacer, 0.127" thick, 1.12" OD, 0.54" ID
  19. xr4tic
    Oddly enough, the lower frame looks perfectly fine., and that's all I'm retaining. I was told a previous owner was an avid scuba diver, and I suspect wet gear (salt water, Florida car) soaked into the rear seat, was held in by the carpet, and rusted out the upper frame/springs. Pretty sure my seat covers are not original, they don't look like any other seat pictures I've seen.
  20. xr4tic
    I contacted Al about it, and that's basically what he said: "I would keep the nylon spacer between the end fitting and the retractor to give some clearance for the webbing. Then install them together using the long bolt on the lower B pillar anchor with the split lock washer as the final washer" The extension bar is for the belt receptacle to space it out for shorter drivers. I will probably buy a thin nylon washer to go between the belt anchor and flat washer (on the body/thread side) just to reduce friction if it needs to rotate.
  21. xr4tic
    The rear seat has been out of my car for a couple years as I've been working on the car. Every time I move it around the garage a pile of dried up horse hair falls out. Decided it was a good time to take it apart and see if I could just stuff some foam in there. It wasn't pretty, at some point in time a previous owner put some gold carpet in there (I'm assuming that it isn't factory) and the upper frame was missing several sections and had broken springs Lower frame is still solid, so I'm going to cut the springs/upper section out, glue burlap weave to the bottom frame, stuff it with 3-5" of upholstery foam, and see if it's sturdy enough for kids to sit on.
  22. xr4tic
    I bought them a couple years ago and never installed them, I'm currently waiting for my carpet set to arrive before they go in. Here's a pic I took when I pulled one out, with the spacers still on them. I can measure the bushing tomorrow
  23. xr4tic
    Interesting, I don't have those, so a PO probably had them apart previously. How much does it need to rotate though? For aftermarket belts, I'm guessing a nylon spacer on each side would probably work fine. I compared the holes in the original belts to bluedevils, and the stock belt hole is much bigger, so the original bushings wouldn't fit.
  24. xr4tic
    Pretty sure that protector/guide is part of the retractor, the retractor would also have to be designed to work at that angle. My 76 has both the retractor and end piece in the same bolt hole closest to the door, and that's probably how yours is designed. I have a set of seatbelts from Al (bluedevils), he provides a nylon spacer to go between the retractor and seatbelt end to clear the webbing. Also keep in mind that when the retractor is installed, the belt is pulled out to reach the upper pivot point, which reduces the belt thickness on the reel. The reel/seatbelt end at the floor on my 76 does not pivot, it's pinned to the body. The retractor is straight up and the end comes out at an angle.
  25. xr4tic
    Since it's basically an electric timer, I'm sure twisting it one way or the other will change the time it takes to open, and the time should be relative to the outside temperature. So much like the carb itself, it can really only be tuned for a specific temp range. Which is why I'll be dumping the carb for EFI in the future.
×
×
  • Create New...