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xr4tic

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Everything posted by xr4tic

  1. xr4tic
    What is that bracket used on? My 76 didn't have it. Should be easy enough to drill and tap the holes for it though.
  2. xr4tic
    You can tuck them in, plenty of info on how to do that if you search, I like the big bumpers on the later cars. I went for the extreme tuck: Lots of cutting involved though.
  3. xr4tic
    No pics, but got a lot done this weekend. Hella Supertones mounted/wired (LOUD) Headlight wiring finished Wiper assembly reinstalled (was coated in orange overspray) Hood catch rod cleaned up/reinstalled (also coated in orange overspray) Heater box reinstalled Dash back in Slowly getting there, nice to get some garage space back too.
  4. xr4tic
    I was going to do a trunk mount, then thought about under the seat, then decided if I was going with a small battery, why not just put it in the stock location? 3 lbs, 1/4 the size, and I don't have to run cables throughout the car (long cable runs are not ideal for a smaller/lower cranking amp battery) EFI and a turbo are in my future plans, so now I have lots of room for tubing
  5. xr4tic
    I was concerned I might not fit in them and didn't want to spend full price to find out, I'm 6' 6" with a 38 waist. I found some old A4s off craigslist for $125, so took a chance. I made an adapter out of angle iron (welding required) to fit the seats to the stock sliders. They ended up being slightly lower and farther back, both good things for me. Fit was fine for me, so I'll run these for a while and then probably upgrade to a newer/nicer set once the rest of the car is sorted out.
  6. xr4tic
    The frame rail is a common rust point on '02s, so that doesn't look so bad. Mine was pretty bad as well and the PO did a bad patch job on the floorpan. I fixed it all myself (with lots of questions asked to the FAQ) If the shock towers are good and the rockers are good, then I think you have a very saveable car. I bought all my panels from W&N, same stuff as RD except cheaper (no VAT) and shipping was very quick.
  7. xr4tic
    Took care of some overspray behind the grill (using sem-flat black spray paint) and installed the IE headlight bucket kit (no pics) Wasn't entirely pleased with the IE kit, according to the instructions, each adjuster was missing a washer (shows 3 per adjuster, only came with 2), and the the bucket mounting nut/washer combo was too small - I put all 4 on and was able to pull the bucket off the nose. I had to buy washers for the adjusters and use the original nuts for the mounting studs. On a positive note, just about done with the electrical harness/fuse box: Headlight/foglight/cooling fan relays will be hidden under ADAMS Autosport headlight covers fuse box to be relocated inside: Not quite plug and play but not as awful as I thought. The real trick will be mounting/hiding everything under the dash.
  8. xr4tic
    If you know your tank is clean, then you can probably just run the in-tank filter, but...... My stock tank must be pretty nasty, because the filter I have attached to the fuel line coming through the firewall is constantly dirty. If I didn't have a see-through filter there, I'd never have known that. To the OP: If your fuel bypass isn't 100% hooked up the way it should be from the factory, then either cap it/ditch it or hook it up as intended. It looks like you have 2 ports unhooked in your pic.
  9. xr4tic
    Pretty cool, nice job. I logged into Facebook for the first time in several months (years?) just to vote.
  10. xr4tic
    Maybe talk to IE first before you start swapping the master cylinder. I wouldn't plug the lines, a 2-into-1 T would probably be best. Is there a lot of meat left on the pads? Could still have air trapped in the lines, what's your bleeding method? I didn't bench bleed my new master, used a pressure bleeder, no issues.
  11. xr4tic
    I'm happy with mine, I have the BL-5000SLX-AC-110 It's not high enough to drop the engine and subframe together (that needs a LOT of space) but I can move around comfortably under the car and turn sideways. They say portable, I say "portable" They are pretty heavy, but have little tiny wheels on one end so you can move them around that way. The picture on the box shows some guy just walking around with a pair under his arms, I'm not doing that.
  12. xr4tic
    The downside of E85 is that it uses 50% more than regular fuel, so your injectors have to be bigger and your fuel tank capacity essentially shrinks. The stock 12 gallon tank would essentially be 8 gallons. You would also have to tune the car twice, once for each gas type, if you plan on switching back and forth. I would love to see an E85 vs gas dyno comparison though. What compression ratio do you have and what is your boost PSI target?
  13. xr4tic
    Mine arrived the other day, but I haven't had a chance to try and mount one of them yet. Maybe this weekend.
  14. xr4tic
    2.0 is the way to go. You would lose HP because of compression ratio with the flat tops, but you would lose more HP by going to a smaller motor. Plus 8:1 is a good turbo compression ratio. Where are you located? I have a used set of flat tops from my motor, no idea of condition, you can have for the cost of shipping. I also have some used piano tops, but it would require boring the block and a matching head.
  15. xr4tic
    What about the glove box? Does it come with a matching piece for that?
  16. xr4tic
    I probably should have done it, but given my success rate on the other 7, I'm kind of glad I didn't.
  17. xr4tic
    Thanks, maybe beer was the missing ingredient. That and Permatex. They're easy to change....once the manifolds have been removed.
  18. xr4tic
    Fired up the new rebuilt engine for the first time (only took a year), good oil pressure, couple of quick throttle blips sounded good, only ran for maybe a minute. Temp gauge never moved. I was pretty stoked until I checked for leaks and realized the freeze plugs were weeping. Every. Single. One. I'm really not sure how I screwed it up? I tapped them in from the outside edge and they were flush with the bevel in the block. I don't remember if I put them in dry, I think I used Permatex High Tack (it's been over a year) Bad batch? These are the plugs: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-engine-expansion-plug-11111717939 I didn't replace the one in the back, covered by the trans, so hopefully dodged a bullet there. Any tricks/tips to do it better?
  19. xr4tic
    Parked 30 years? Indoor or outdoor? The patina on the hood says "outdoors" That's a lot of moisture hitting the bottom of that car. Almost guaranteed that something is rotten. On the plus side, these cars are very saveable with some metal work know-how. Unless it's some limited-edition-super-rare car, I'd say $1K - $2K. it will nickel and dime you well over $10K on just the mechanicals (ask me how I know)
  20. xr4tic
    A rough wiring diagram of your power wires might help. The ground spot will be OK, as long as there is sufficient metal to metal contact. You would have to either remove metal from both sides of the bolt hole on the brace and the shock tower, or you could take the nut off, expose the metal on the back side, and put the nut back on. You would then have to coat it with paint or undercoating to prevent it from rusting. I wouldn't run the alternator through the fuse, ideally it should go right to the battery. The bolt holding the fuse holder looks reeeeeal close to the power wire too.
  21. xr4tic
    It's the IE billet pedal, it does take a bit of work to get it in though, the base runs up against the curve for the trans tunnel. A hammer helped flatten the area out a bit, and I used the bench grinder to round the base of the pedal a bit to fit better. Also had to shim it with washers to keep it flat. Nice and smooth if you get it aligned right though.
  22. xr4tic
    This is a hard question to answer if you don't list your requirements. Do you HAVE to have full sequential fuel and ignition? Is price no object? Personally, I'm looking at the MicroSquirt. Cheap, already built, small, has a real connector, will handle all my requirements, and if you decide you need more, you can get the MS3 and use it as an expansion box. It can also do baro correction Sure, you're not going to get full sequential fuel/spark out of it, but do you really NEED that? If you're not tuning on a per-cylinder basis, and don't have individual EGT sensors setup, then I will argue that you don't. Someone mentioned AEM, they used to have a horrible reputation, maybe it's better now, but I would not buy one.
  23. xr4tic
    The battery is mainly for starting the engine, after that, it's on the alternator to provide power for running everything, including the stereo. Even a full size battery will have issues if your alternator isn't up to the task.
  24. xr4tic
    I'm still working on re-wiring the car, so it will be a bit before I can even test it out. Plenty of room for a charge pipe though, ~6" of space between it and the alternator.
  25. xr4tic
    I got the 480CA version, they also offer 680CA and 900CA versions. They're bigger/slightly costlier, but cheaper/smaller than getting 2 batteries.
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