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xr4tic

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Everything posted by xr4tic

  1. xr4tic
    The W&N pieces are not an exact fit, you will find they line up in one spot, but not another. Pretty sure I test-fit mine at least twenty times and came out with a different result every time. Trim it the best you can and you might need a hammer to bend some of the pieces to match up, I found the tunnel area to be the most difficult, presumably because the W&N piece is for auto and manuals, and they have different size tunnels. A copper backing plate help immensely to fill in large gaps. here's my before/after pics:
  2. xr4tic
    Made my Ant-Gravity battery tray. All angle steel, pretty sure it weighs more than the battery. I did screw up though, put the hold down bar directly over the Reset button, nothing a hole can't fix, and a pen. Now just waiting for the paint to dry before I install it.
  3. xr4tic
    What's your budget? Expected downtime? Care about originality? If you answer: not unlimited, low, and not really, then I suggest finding another head, (E21 works if you have flat top pistons), having it rebuilt, then swapping it out. If you're not rebuilding the bottom end for higher compression, then there's no point in going crazy with the head, but plan on replacing almost everything - springs/rockers/eccentrics/shafts/etc (peace of mind is worth it) When I had mine rebuilt, the machinist noted the valves were quite worn, so I had to buy new ones, the IE stainless valves were cheaper than stock replacements (same size). Also added the single spring HD valves and chromoly retainers (cheap insurance) Alternatively, find a good used head, plop it on, and rebuild the original.
  4. xr4tic
    Keep in mind the adapter will raise the sensor up quite a bit. If it's one of those huge VDO sensors, it might interfere with the distributor and you'll need one of those 90 degree banjo bolt adapters. My Speedhut sensor, with adapter (M12 x 1.5), I wish it wasn't so tall, but plenty of room. The speedhut coolant sensor adapter (no pic) I used was M14 x 1.5 and I was able to use an NPT tap to make the sensor flush with the adapter.
  5. xr4tic
    I pulled the trigger on a set of these. FWIW, there are quite a few places that sell aluminum (or wood) door cards for about the same price, but none of them are powdercoated, so that's a big advantage. I'm planning on running them as-is until I get the rest of the car sorted out, then I'll probably cover them up.
  6. xr4tic
    My Audi A4 1.8T had sodium filled valves from the factory (exhaust side) I say had because when I went to bigger valves, I went with SS valves....or maybe it was inconel, I don't remember, was a long time ago. Definitely not sodium filled though. If price is no object, or it's a couple bucks more, go for it, but IMHO, they're not necessary at all.
  7. xr4tic
    Agreed, I don't see the point in using all the EDIS equipment if the EFI unit can handle it. I'm leaning towards a microsquirt and having the VR sensor run directly to it and letting it fire the coils (wasted spark, probably LS coils which are cheap/plentiful)
  8. xr4tic
    Looks like an inductive wheel, triggered by magnets. I can't tell how many magnets are in it, but I'm guessing just 4?
  9. xr4tic
    Assuming your charging system is in good condition, you don't need to do anything special to run a Li ION battery. Just make sure it's not putting out too much voltage. You'll need a special charger for maintenance/out of the vehicle, I bought the one recommended by the battery company (Anti-Gravity) https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-926-LITHIUM-Automatic-Phosphate/dp/B00EUF6UM8 I figure if I do have an issue and have to talk to them, I can show that I'm using their recommended charger.
  10. xr4tic
  11. xr4tic
    Ignorance is bliss, don't pull the sprocket off unless you're willing to swap the cam (the broken part), which requires pulling the head.
  12. xr4tic
    Started working on the wiring to relocate the fuse box inside
  13. xr4tic
    Lots of info here: I bought an AntiGravity ATX-12-HD and will be mounting it in the stock location - weighs 3 lbs, is 1/3rd the size of the original battery, and I won't have to mess with running thicker cables through the car.
  14. xr4tic
    Maybe it has the wrong pulley? If it's a larger pulley, it will spin slower. If it's new and under warranty, you could try and get a replacement, or just learn to blip the throttle on warm starts.
  15. xr4tic
    Not sure yet, I'm still working on re-wiring the engine bay. @NYNick is running this battery and seems to like it, so I pulled the trigger on it. The PC680 referenced earlier in this thread only has 170 CCA and I think there are a few running that battery.
  16. xr4tic
    I just got my AG battery, 3 lbs. I already had removed the original tray because I was going to mount in the trunk, but that doesn't make sense with a 3 lb battery, the long cables would weigh more than that. I'll mount it close to the stock location Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  17. xr4tic
    The reason the bolt heads should be on the guibo and the nuts on the flange, is when you tighten a nut/bolt assembly, you are supposed to hold the bolt head still and tighten the nut. If you tighten whatever end that touches the guibo, you risk rotating the metal insert and putting strain on it.
  18. xr4tic
    Definitely sketchy, is that fiberglass on the inner fender? My frame rail was bad as well, including sections of the inner rocker, the floorpan, and firewall below the pedal box. I've got pics in my blog of replacing it all.
  19. xr4tic
    I didn't bench bleed. My brake system was empty (replaced master cylinder + all new Cunifer lines + stainless lines + Volvo calipers + new clutch master/slave), I used the Motive bleeder and had the system bleed in ~15 minutes. Rock solid pedal.
  20. xr4tic
    Can you post your jet settings? I have this exact same combo.
  21. xr4tic
    If you have square taillights, this is what I did:
  22. xr4tic
    As an FYI, The XR700 comes with an optical trigger wheel setup for the distributor to replace the original points setup. The ignition box isn't much good without it.
  23. xr4tic
    I think NYNick has this one: https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/restart-oem/atx12-hd-rs/ I'm looking at this one for a little bit more: https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/restart-oem/atx20-rs/ I removed my battery tray when I was stripping my engine bay with the intention of putting a battery in the trunk. Now I'm thinking I'll just mount one of these batteries in the stock location and not bother with running cables all through the car. Looks like Pegasus Racing has them cheaper: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=ANTIGRESTART
  24. xr4tic
    Any updates on how your lithium is holding up so far?
  25. xr4tic
    As always, personal preference. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/227424-should-i-do-the-ie-air-dam/
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