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gordon415

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About gordon415

  • Birthday July 2

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  1. Yes, leave it in place. No need to take it out to install the headliner. I took mine out merely to repair a corner that broke off and remove pieces of the previous headliner that were still stuck to it (and I wanted to see what was underneath). When stuffing the headliner edge between the board and the body, you may need to cut slits in the headliner edge That is getting glued so you can push it between the clips. Otherwise it will bunch up. Hope that makes sense. I already reinstalled my glass so I can’t show you pictures. Also, a word of advice, make sure you do not get any glue on the front of the board when gluing and clipping the headliner with binder clips. Otherwise you’ll get little divots in the otherwise smooth appearance in your headliner. Ask me how I know haha. That rough, uneven edge on the bottom right of your board will be visible when you install the new headliner. If that bothers you, you may want to attempt to repair it. Not sure how, but I’m sure someone on here has done that before.
  2. I just did this last week when I replaced my headliner. I removed the board without taking the clips off the board and without the tool. Squeeze the end of the clip with needle nose pliers and gently pull the board away from the body of the car. I just put my hand between the board and the car body while squeezing the clip ends with needle nose pliers and it worked fine. Do this for each one and you’ll eventually have the board off the car with the clips still in place on the board. Installation includes lining each clip tip to their respective holes in the body, then start pushing the board in until each clip has popped into place. You may need to use your pliers to adjust the clips on the backside of the hole if they do not pop in. To answer your other question, yes, the headliner needs to be glued to this board and not to the car body (only sunroof cars glue directly to the window). If you haven’t already, check out Clay’s guide in the articles section for thorough instructions with pictures (and read the comments for additional tips, like using 3M headliner glue ... works great and takes less time). Good luck!
  3. I bought mine from Blunt because they had a decent Black Friday sale and have been all around a great parts resource over the years. I think Blunt and 02bumpers.com sell the exact same bumpers. I saw 02bumbers.com products in real life a few years back and I they look identical to what I got from Blunttech. I don't know that for sure, though.
  4. I had the same issue in my 1971 (built November 1970) and there was no sound proofing on the tunnel. My seats did have a rather strong lean, though. I wasn't sure if the seats were worn out and crooked or if the mounts on the body were bent. The metal piece in your picture that is cutting into your tunnel tore my carpet, and then it eventually broke off completely. I solved the problem by getting Recaros. They are slightly angled, too, which makes me think the seat mounts are indeed a bit crooked.
  5. That’s disappointing, but definitely good to know. I’ll add a leakdown test to my list to get done, or use it as an excuse to buy more tools. Are you doing anything to address your engine’s blow by?
  6. UPDATE: Replacing the rotor and cap, and placing a simple air breather filter on the end of the valve cover (instead of the catch can) seemed to alleviate the problem for the last seven months. Daily during the first month or so after the initial problem, I would take the rotor cap and check for oil buildup, wipe away any oil that might be there, cross my fingers, and drive again. As time went on, there was less and less oil and then I eventually stopped checking it. Everything was running great until the end of January when I was driving home at night on the freeway when the rotor cap and the rotor itself both popped off. Luckily, the rotor got lodged between the distributor and the valve cover and did not fall into a lane of traffic never to be seen again. There was not a lot of oil in the distributor like the first time, but there was some. The rotor popped off a couple more times since then, so it's going in for service. I do not think a blocked breather on the valve cover is the problem (at least this time). I replaced the dirty air filter breather with another but that didn't help. Tried a few variations but no luck (catch can again but less than a foot away from the valve cover, new Weber filter with attachment for the valve cover tube). Compression test came back good, but that was the first time I've done one of those so I may try it again. Also going to try some Marvel Mystery Oil in my next oil change. The old Bosch and points went back in yesterday. I also put in a new Weber 32/36 with C.D.'s jetting prescription and she drove beautifully today...probably because of the tuning. And soon my anxiety that she's going to stall out in traffic will begin to go away again.
  7. YOM. Was a bit of a pain in the ass to get them, but worth it.
  8. Those are nice! I really like silver with black centers.
  9. The clips in the picture are for the cardboard piece that you don’t have, so you won’t need those. Not sure about your other questions but am also interested in finding out about the need for extra stitching. I still need to install my headliner, too. I also deleted a non-factory sunroof. What a pain, but totally worth it!
  10. I have the factory one that doesn’t resemble the original. I’ll try greasing it. That’s a good idea. Thank you. I had the aftermarket brakes from the FAQ member prior to installing the factory versions, but they did not fit correctly and caused the door to make contact with the hood when opened. I didn’t realize it until after it ruined the trim on the door. Ugh. I was super disappointed.
  11. Ever since I put in new version of the factory door brakes the passenger side has been a bit sticky and takes some force to close if the door has been opened all the way. See video below. I’m worried this is putting strain on the door brake mount, which I know have a tendency to break. I looked in the forums but didn’t see anything like this problem. The driver’s side opened and closes smoothly, so I don’t think this is normal. And it’s been 6-9 months since they were installed and it hasn’t gotten any smoother. Anyone have any ideas? IMG_0157.MOV
  12. Thanks for passing along the recommendation. I need to take my glass out to install a new headliner and I think I might just replace the windshield rather than reinstalling the old one with it's 40+ years of chips and pits.
  13. Ahh ok. I'll give that a try next time. Hopefully that will reduce the number of swear words coming out of my mouth. Thank you!
  14. Apologize for side tracking a bit but I have a Dremel question...what's the best way to install the cut off wheel on the little silver post? Every time I put one on I either break the wheel by tightening the screw too much, or - if I don't over tighten - the wheel doesn't stay secure and just spins around instead of staying in place and cutting. I always feel stupid and get the angle grinder out instead and cause more damage. Is there a trick to it?
  15. Sounds good. I'll send you a PM when I get home later today.


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