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xr4tic

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Everything posted by xr4tic

  1. xr4tic
    Is it on the right way? I noticed on mine that the two sides were different, the steering box side had the bolt hole lower, so you couldn't slide it on if the bolt was in, it's supposed to line up with the groove. The steering column side had the bolt higher so you could slide and adjust the shaft with the bolt in.
  2. xr4tic
    In the seller's defense, I can see why he only wants to sell locally. Less risk of a scam, less time involved, and just plain easier. I've put cars for sale on CL before, you get bombarded with emails/texts from scammers and some of them sound legit, so that could be the reason why he's short/non-communicative. If you have his #, call him, offer him a $50 deposit for better shots of the rockers/trunk area/rear strut towers, with the condition that deposit is to be refunded if they're rusty. If he flakes out, then you're only out $50 as opposed to a plane ticket. However, based on your other posts, if you're doing an engine swap anyways, then buy the best car you can, stick or auto, it won't be staying in the car.
  3. xr4tic
    An air/electric ratchet doesn't have the torque of an impact wrench, so you can use it for general disassembly/assembly I find myself using normal ratchets most of the time, especially if it's just one or two bolts I'm working on. If I have a bunch of them to do, I'll grab the electric ratchet and buzz them on/off way faster.
  4. xr4tic
    I really liked your fuel cell conversion. It's on my to-do list. Did you ever get it hooked up to the stock filler?
  5. xr4tic
    That sounds like what I have on my 76 2002, I just trimmed them slightly with a pair of snips to fit the larger Volvo calipers for my big brake conversion. Another early/late difference? I suspect the "E21 shields" are the same as late '02 shields.
  6. xr4tic
    I had the same issue on mine. I measured one of the ports and bought some large brass NTP fittings to try and replace them, only to find out the connections are not the same size in the manifold, so I scrapped that idea and just picked up another used manifold. While you have it apart, you will want to check out the rest of your ports, my water diverter (part coming off the head) was corroded through as well as the port on the back of the head.
  7. xr4tic
    Yes, that's the point. Most electric fans are sold as a puller - mounted behind the radiator and pull air through the radiator. If you mount it on the front of the radiator, it will still pull, so you have to flip the blades to make it push the air through. If you buy a fan that is configured to push, you won't have to do anything.
  8. xr4tic
    it's a mount for a fuel return regulator/check valve that was used on later year 02s (mine is a 76)
  9. xr4tic
    I may have to get one of these. I currently have the Craftsman ratchet, it's handy, but uses the large 19.2V C3 battery back and requires an adapter to put a normal 3/8 socket on, and the adapter keeps falling out.
  10. xr4tic
    I could have just reversed the polarity and spun it backwards, but it's easy to flip the fan and it keeps the wire colors correct (black is still ground instead of being power)
  11. xr4tic
    Do you mean where the oil filter screws on? It's the one that came with my engine, guessing they're the same
  12. xr4tic
    Early 90's VW Corrado G60, the 4-cyl supercharged version. https://jalopnik.com/not-new-review-the-volkswagen-corrado-g60-is-flawed-bu-1794316760
  13. xr4tic
    I daily drove my E39 M5 in Michigan winters (before kids), good set of snow tires does wonders, got lots of thumbs ups too. Now I daily a Durango SRT, which is basically the opposite of everything you're looking for, but it's more family friendly.
  14. xr4tic
    Not without cutting/destroying the tube
  15. xr4tic
    Is it the 2K Chassis Black paint or something else?
  16. xr4tic
    "Needs the right guy" I'm the right guy, but it's in the wrong location.
  17. xr4tic
    Not entirely true. The spare motor I bought had e12 domed pistons and an e21 head. It had been rebuilt (poorly) at some point in time. It can work, but it's not recommended.
  18. xr4tic
    you bought an 02 that had been sitting for a while, then parked it for a while yourself? The engine isn't where you want to start. Get it running the best you can and just drive it. I'm sure you will find all sorts of things that need to be taken care of, plus it will give you a better indication of what kind of engine build to go with. If you drive it and think that another 20-30HP is all you need, then you can focus on rebuilding your engine or you may think it's woefully under powered and decide an engine swap is in order.
  19. xr4tic
    My goal for the weekend was to get the rebuilt motor into the car. Got all the brake related stuff in, steering column back in the car, just needed to remove the driveshaft and run the new brake line through the tunnel to the rear T: First time use of the Quick Jack, not sure how I lived without this before now: Engine is in!
  20. xr4tic
    I wouldn't sweat the 4-bolt flange, especially if you already have all the parts. If you were putting out a ton of HP, then maybe it would be a concern, or if you didn't have any of the parts and had a choice, then sure, go for the 3-bolt.
  21. xr4tic
    My recommendation would be to start with a mostly stock M20 6-cyl, see how you like it. If you want more, you can build another on the side while you're out enjoying your car. As for trans, I came across this: https://www.importperformancetrans.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=5412 I think that's the trans used behind the M20 in the E28/E30. No experience with that vendor though.
  22. xr4tic
    I would request a new one. While it may be fine now, it could potentially wear out faster. And if it does fail, they will likely not honor the warranty because it's external damage.
  23. xr4tic
    Do not worry about what other people want for wheels, pick what YOU like. This is your car, not theirs. If you want to rock Ronal Teddy Bear rims, then do it. Set aside a couple hours and go through the stance thread - https://www.bmw2002faq.com/index.php?/forums/topic/71097-the-stance-thread/ That will give you a good idea of what will fit and how it will look. 7" rims will fit in the front and 8" in the rear, but offset is critical. I will say I'm a big fan of BBS RS rims (mine are 15x7)
  24. xr4tic
    Anyone have some pictures that point out all these areas to spray into? I just replaced the drivers side frame rail, floor pan, and a chunk of the inner rocker. I bought some Fluid Film to spray in there, but would really like to know other areas I can spray.
  25. xr4tic
    I'm with Toby, if the smoke isn't that bad, and the car is new to you, just drive it. I'm sure you will find other things that need to be taken care of and dumping all your budget into the engine won't necessarily make for a better driving car. That being said, it's still worth doing a compression and leak down test, you can rent the necessary tools from most auto parts stores for free, but you'll need an air compressor for the leak down tester. If the compression and/or leak down tests prove good, or even mediocre, you can try some of the seafoam/steam clean options. I know a few guys that swear by Marvel mystery oil, little into each cylinder, down the carb, and the rest into the oil ~500 miles before an oil change.
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