xr4tic

After a year of procrastination and with winter around the corner, I went with the quick option - orange rustoleum. It turned out WAY brighter than whatever color orange my car is currently painted, but at least it's one color. This just needs to last until I re-spray the whole car, which won't be any time soon. You can see inside the turn signal area is the original color, which is closer. Now I just need to finish that frame rail repair.....

Was anything else replaced at the same time? If the idler arm bushings were replaced, it's possible to over tighten it if you used the factory specs.

Tanks Inc makes a nice in-tank fuel pump module: http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm Don't be afraid to get a bigger pump than you might need, excess fuel will just be returned to the tank on the return line. Just don't go crazy, 255lph should be fine and give you lots of room for future HP growth.

Any issues with Penetrol on a cylinder head with the heat?

I'm planning on one of these for when I go EFI: http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm I won't be running the stock fuel tank though, going to a fuel cell for added capacity, so you'd have to measure the depth of the stock tank to make sure it will fit (min 6", max 10.5"), but it can probably be extended past 10.5" if needed.

From an insurance perspective, think about how much it would cost to build the car you currently have if it was stolen/burned to the ground. Buying a solid car + upgrades + labor, $20k is probably reasonable.

The bolts pass through the water pump and into the block, there is no exposure to oil or water cavities. After 40+ years, oil can get into lots of strange places. Here's a good thread on the necessary WP bolts: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/181599-water-pump-bolts/

That's a lot, the set I pulled from my M10 had a variance of 3g (699 - 702 g, measured without bearings)

Are there two wires running to the pump? I only see one in the pic. You could try applying 12V directly to the pump terminals to rule out a bad wire/connector.

Wouldn't that best be done from inside the rocker? I may do that if I have to repair the outer rocker, but I plan on tackling the exterior at a later date. Main goal is to get the car back together and driving this year before winter comes. Thanks for the tips everyone.

While I don't agree with the behavior, I don't see the point in dragging this into public view when he was talking to you in private. If he's talking crap in another thread, again, no need to start another post about it, keep it in that thread and let the mods deal with it.

Struts all assembled, with IE offset rollcenter adjusters + camber plates, Bilsteins, H&R springs that came with the car, and Volvo brake conversion: Front subframe together with new idler bushings and IE poly bushings:

I'm finally ready to tackle the front floorpans, but the rot is more than just the floorpan, so I've got some questions, and any tips/tricks anyone has would be welcome. Questions (pics below) 1. The firewall is rotted above where the floorpan covers, so I have to extend the firewall down. There's a small part that appears to bend into the tire area then has a brace welded back to the floorpan. What is this for? Is it necessary? Does anyone have a pic of what an unmolested piece looks like? 2. The inner rocker has some rust in the bottom. I know this is structural, but if I cut just the lower half out and don't mess with the top part, I shouldn't have to add additional bracing, right? If it matters, there is no engine/suspension/subframe in the car, the rear tires are on the ground and the front is on jackstands up by the bumper. 3. Replacement order? I'm assuming inner rocker, then extend firewall, then fit floorpan using existing frame as a reference, then cut the frame rail out (I'm going to cut the frame rail a couple inches back of where the subframe mount ends, not replace the whole thing) 4. Best way to attach the frame rail to the floor pan? punch holes in the rail flange and plug weld or just stitch weld the sides to the pan? Same question for the floorpan to firewall and rocker. Beginner welder if it matters. 5. Best thing to spray inside the frame rail to prevent rust in the future? Here's where I'm at now: More rot: Inner rocker as well: Floorpan test fit: Piece that sticks into the wheel well: The replacement rail: Thanks!

Pretty sure those should go underneath, if a bolt breaks, nothing is stopping the strut from going up into the hood and dropping the front end to the pavement. Is the hole in the spherical bearing larger than the stock bearing? The stock system has the upper spring hat pressing against the stock bearing with a couple washers, which spaces it far enough away from contacting the mounting plate.

IE sells 57mm long studs/nuts, I picked up a set of these for my Volvo brake conversion - http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/12x57wheelstuds.html If you want a more expensive option, I run Bimmerworld studs on my E39 M5 - http://www.bimmerworld.com/Wheels-Tires/Studs-Lug-bolts/

That link redirects back to this forum post. http://www.m2bmw.net/

I had one on my E39 M5, I had a lot of issues getting the PWM to work, it basically would only run full speed, and eventually just stopped working. I've talked to other users that had the same issue.

You can find a nice running car for $10K, so if that's the price, it's a pass. Anything that has sat for that long will need a ton of work, most of the rubber items are probably dry rotted/cracked by now (fuel lines, brake lines, suspension bushings, etc, etc)

Looks like you have E21 hubs, which are hubcentric, and BSS RS rims, which are also hubcentric. Just buy the appropriate adapter for them, I got a set from Jegs for ~$10.

Mine is rotted in the same place, although not as far up, but also all the way under the floor pan. My plan is to just replace the section aft of the subframe mount by drilling out the spot welds in the inner fender and cutting it out, then weld in a replacement section (I bought a used framerail already) But I also have no engine, subframe, or floor pans in my car, so some of the pre-work is already done.

I like that look, can you take a pic with the lights on?

I was thinking about doing this, but with rectangular lights. I couldn't find any that fit the dimensions of the openings though.

Looks like you have the shifter platform all the way down on the slot instead of all the way up. Try loosening the arm on both ends and see if you can push the shift platform up further.

Hit up @Sharktrainer, he has a 4-barrel Holley on his M10

Need more info. What's rubbing and where? Pics would probably help.