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About 2002Scoob

  • Birthday 04/22/1985

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  1. Something to note, the boot/ center console lip is trapezoidal shaped. So if you happened to install the short side on the long side, and the long side on the short side, this could result.
  2. Heh. I was actually cleaning my car the other day and was marveling at how terrible of a molded rubber part my original boot was. Maybe they're still using the same tooling as back then, and it's only gotten worse?
  3. I think my next car is a Cinqicento, or an Ami 8.... No way those hunk-a-junk eco-blahs are getting uber expensive anytime soon. And they're so cool.
  4. Bold statement, I challenge you to stick with it, 'cuz they're probably one of the best suppliers and carry good quality parts for fair prices IMHO. I put money on that you'll be back.... they always come back. :P Seems a bit brash over a relatively inexpensive rubber part. But as Steve recommends, you should try out their customer service first. They're super friendly, and on the side of their consumer. I've bought thousands of euro worth of kit from them, and haven't been disappointed yet. The few mix-ups have been quickly and honestly rectified.
  5. New sender? If so, they’ve got a wire clip-thing that holds the float in position during shipping. You’ve gotta remove it. And, just a theory, but I’m pretty sure gasoline doesn’t conduct electricity like water does. By putting your original in a pail of water to test could likely be giving you a false reading. -been wrong before. And has also installed a sender without removing said clip. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787] time is universal, metric or imperial. I guess there was no way to equate time to the length of a reigning King’s thumb or foot back in the day... But I share your same method for working under my car. I’ll put only the front up on jack stands to work under the motor, because the backs can be locked by either putting in gear + e-brake. Never put jack stands only under the rear, get the whole car up in the air if you have to, because there’s no really secure way to lock the fronts without something applying the brakes. Also, when you put the car up on 4 stands, as Dave recommends, do the front first, then the back, and bring it back down in the reverse order so you have braked wheels on the ground first. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Yep, there was a thread not long ago. Don't feel like searching. Most would agree sway bars, I think. -J (has done everything but swaybars... DAMN YOU TUV!!!!)
  8. Slavs, you're on a roll with the opinion posts! I'd bet my BBS RS's with Ti hardware are lighter than my 13x6.5 Mini-lights. More traction, less un-sprung weight, tighter handling, steezy looks :) Somebody must be energized by @AceAndrew 's 'unpopular opinion thread, haha.
  9. Looks good to me! Fill up the trunk with spares and tools and go for it!
  10. Rad, thanks I’d probably look to rebuild my retractors and just install new webbing. Mine is getting a bit frayed/old. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I already live in Germany... Would you care to share your supplier to order a set here? I'd love some Yellow to match my MOMO.
  12. When I got my car, the distributor housing seal was a leaky mess, and the single-most largest contributor to engine-bay oil contamination. I'm gunna bet that coulda' been your culprit. If just tightening things down doesn't do it, replacing the seal is a 5-10 minute job.
  13. I saw an Audi A4 or A6 in a much darker, solid tone grey yesterday that had me lusting to paint my car.... Would look sooo classy.
  14. Yep, just did a search. It works, but not as well. Because the grey is so simple, I think it needs to be offset with the chrome front end. Black grills just don't do it.
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