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About 2002Scoob

  • Birthday 04/22/1985

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  1. By Alameda? That's more of what I was thinking. Used to live on SB St. :) Hope ya find it!
  2. Is that photo on Santa Barbara St? Edit.. prolly not. but looked familiar. old stomping grounds
  3. Just bumpin' this one up outa curiosity what happened, and what the solution was. Also because merely mentioning the user 'Furry Camel aka 'Buzz Bomb' in my previous post elicited multiple "F*&k You" blah blah blahs, my 10mm wrench is bigger than yours" attitude in my inbox. Pure professionalism from this guy. To think he's allowed to represent a respectable company like Ireland Engineering. If it were mine I'd be either be putting this little dog on a leash, or sending him to the pound.
  4. I've got vintage Thule square-bar gutter-mounts I picked up for 30 euro on Flea-bay, gussied them up, and I use a modern tray-style Thule rack that mounts grabs the downtube, but keeps the wheels on. Works fantastic, but there's a fair bit of aerodynamic drag when in-use, but not terrible. I actually drove the car to work today with my Scalpel Si, because I'm hoping to sell it this evening. I'll snap a photo if ya haven't seen my setup already.
  5. Back to the HG... if it’s final torque procedure is not an overall value, but an angle measurement, do you still need to retorque? I thought not? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Very odd. But if ya did find some some sort of blockage in the oil gallery, while running a flex brush down it might clear it, I’d be hella paranoid whatever you dislodged (a bit of shop rag, or sludge from the machine-shop?) is just going to clog up the pickup to your oil pump, or worse. Definitely think about flushing your motor of oil after, and run it thru a fine mesh filter to catch and identity what it was. If you clear something out that allows the head to drain, but can’t recover anything out the pan, perhaps contemplate taking the pan off. If it is smutz from the machine shop, perhaps think about the possibility other areas of the block could be equally smutz’d. Like the longitudinal oil gallery/branches running to the main bearings, which could be disastrous. Did you do the assembly yourself? Run brushes in and thru everything, and blast out with compressed air? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Threw in the re-man’d alternator I picked up that had been sitting on a shop shelf for 15 years. I’m gunna guess when they rebuilt it they didn’t bother to replace the bushings, because they crumbled like grandma’s oatmeal cookies. Thankfully had the poly bushings from my old alternator I had replaced a few years back. Good as new! Also found this in my shakedown run... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/210830-changing-m10-cams/#comments
  9. That's a no-go, compadre. The tool you need compresses the valve springs all at once to unload the rockers, allowing you to remove the rocker-shafts, valve retainers, etc. There's some other ways around it, I forget who recommended it in the past, but It's been mentioned you can turn the cam over, and as valves are opened, wrap shop towels around the heads to stick them open, essentially serving the same purpose. I get a little sketched out that you could maybe bend a valve, but maybe not? (others chime in, por-favor). But at that point, you're still going to need a way to compress the valve springs again to disengage the retainers and drop the valves.
  10. I would recommend that when the FAQ is down, to go out to your car and try and fix as many things as possible that you're unsure of how to fix, so you have a reason to post when it comes back up :)
  11. I'm curious for info on this. I'm going out on a limb from your post in the other thread, that you got a motor which was run-in on a dyno/test stand, and the valves were adjusted before shipping out. it was installed, ran 1000 miles, and you went to check your valve lash and found this? No one else fuddled with the drivertrain in-between? On a side note, this settles the debate of 'do valves rotate when running'. Look at how evenly/concentric that stem is beaten in!
  12. here in Germany, the sites been down/inactive for the last 24-36h . Looks like it's back up and running!
  13. Oooooof. No bueno, sorry to see that. Maybe it's just me, but I'd be checking valve clearances in a shorter interval than 1000 miles on a fresh engine, but that's an assembly error if I've ever seen one. As for what's needed.... The head is going to need to come off, and you'll need a new valve. Judging by how mushroomed out that stem is, it's going to be a fun job. And yah, likely new valve, guide, retainers. etc. Maybe replace the rocker, too? If that was getting wrapped on enough to do that sorta' work the the valve, I'd be a little concerned about percussive stress fractures from the hard impacts. But maybe it's fine. -J Mildly remembers an inappropriate level of smack talk from user 'furry Camel' under various SN's.
  14. That's classic Renthal. Check out their line of MTB Push-On Grips. They're what the doc. ordered. https://www.renthal.com/cycle/grips/push-on
  15. Yup. Most slip-on style MTB grips work fantastic, I've found. I've run a few different options, but love your choice of the Vans Waffle!

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