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About 2002Scoob

  • Birthday 04/22/1985

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  1. While borescopes are indeed pretty cool. I could have that engine down to a bare block in the time it takes ya to drive to Walmart Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. True, but that's work that's done on a work bench. You're thinking of the tool used to compress the valve-springs to remove the cam. There's little to no need to do any disassembly of the cam/rockers with the head attached to the block, and in your case where the motor is seized anyway, just crack that puppy in half and see what's going on inside!
  3. With that much air volume, I'm wondering if it's as much the tires pushing, as it is the motor sucking itself forward. It's for sure one fancy-pants air-pump.
  4. The master-tinkerer has been rendered tinkerless!
  5. It's not that weird. Anything on the drivers-side is more likely to see more use, thus more wear. A short-armed, friend-less, and tragically single previous owner probably fiddled with his wing mirror regularly, and the passenger side never saw the same amount of fiddlin'. Mine are both surprisingly tight...
  6. That intake tube could swallow a soccer ball...
  7. Ahhh yah! You're right, now I remember. That's one of the first things I had to do when I got my car, was replace the dist. housing seal and that little washer-piece-and was the source of most of my oil on the back of the motor. It's a metal cylinder with a little rubber flange dealie inside, yah?
  8. I wouldn't jump to HG so quickly. The distributor housings are pretty common leak points, and there's a bolt back there that requires a special crush washer you shouldn't reuse (but can...unless it leaks when you do). Oil can also get blown down the length of the motor from wind/ the radiator fan and pool in the back, so it could be coming from a poorly sealed, or failing seal on your upper timing cover. Mine weeps a bit from the breather-hose on the valve-cover, even with a tight-fitting silicone hose. Spray it all down with brake-cleaner to get everything bone-dry, drive it around the block, and see what looks wet.
  9. This. This is all I needed today. Now I go home and sleep happy. It's also 9:17am in Germany and I just go to work.
  10. Here's my little shit-show from a few years back building mine from a barn-find Tii motor that someone started building and failed, and I bought for cheap. Came out pretty darn well for never having built one, although I have a background in design-engineering. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/201612-jeffs-random-motor-rebuild-disassemblyassembly-questions-thread/#comments Don't be too intimidated. If you understand manuals, ask enough questions, understand lefty-loosy-righty-tighty, and speak torque-wrench... It's really not hard. I Nut-and-Bolt rebuilt my entire front end, and built a motor in a matter of a few months after work in my free-time. It's a 45 year-old glorified air-pump after all.
  11. You just went from 'scope creep' to 'Scope Leap' with that one. 😆 Poor guy just wanted to put in a distributor and found a broken timing sprocket flange, and now we're advocating tearing into the bottom end too? "Top 10 Things in DIY Head Rebuild" - Do the rest of the motor too while you're in there. 😂
  12. TUV Approved :) No sag. Dug this up from when I put 'em in.
  13. Check the wear-pattern on the pads, first... But depending on the condition of your current rockers, it's best-practice to replace rocker arms when installing a new camshaft, as you're introducing an un-even wear-pattern to the new cam that can cause it to wear faster/unevenly. Best to start off with freshies.
  14. When I was researching using ‘em, the only cautionary notes I could find was to not over-torque, as they could deform the shafts and cause the rockers to bind or wear unevenly. A task probably best left to the competent machinist you choose. He’ll be able to measure the inner diameter, and set up your initial spacing of .3-.4mm between the rocker and the locks. But again. They’re unnecessary on a street car and a 292. Which runs outa steam at or below 6500. But it’s fun knowing you’ve got just a little unnecessary race bling under your valve cover, whether you need it or not. Even if you’re the only one who sees or knows it’s there -oh, and do leave your eccentrics loose when installing the head, dry fit with a pre-compressed headgasket, clay your pistons for clearance, and set your valve-lash only once the head is fully torqued. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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