2002Scoob

Solex
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About 2002Scoob

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Freiburg, Germany
  • Interests Old slow cars, New Fast cars, Old Fast Cars, Mountain bikes, Traveling, Camping, Roadtrips, Beer, Wine, Coffee, Food.

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  1. Man... It's got me way down. Not gunna lie. It sucks even more that I had to move recently and get a new apartment, and the best option living wise, unfortunately wasn't the best option car-wise. So now Brunhilde lives in an underground carpark a few blocks away that I rent separately. I go visit her on occasion, bringing her small luxuries to help both of us through the winter. Things like water-free car-wash treatments, i went and vacuumed her carpets for her the other week....and brought her an incontinence tray to go under the rear diff/transmission drain plugs to save her some dignity of staining the concrete of her temporary home till I can find her a more suitable workshop in the spring. I won't even think about that winter is prime-time for wrenching... and I'm not allowed to do that in this space. I'd love to be pulling the rear subframe off and sending it for stripping and epoxy paint to match the front end, and get those stiff poly-mounts in there that I've been waiting to install. Would also give me a great excuse to spend money I don't have on an LSD... so maybe it's all for the better?
  2. 2002Scoob

    Piston to Valve Clearance

    100% clay it! And maybe even start thinking about an adjustable cam gear. My head was just short of final thickness, with a schrick 292, Mahle 9.5pistons, and thicker head gasket. In order to get proper clearance it took machining the faces of the exhaust valves and advancing the cam timing to compensate for the reduced head thickness. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 2002Scoob

    1 Series-2002, discuss.

    Blech. No-me-gusta. The proportions are all wrong. What they shoulda done is a body-graft of a 2002 onto a 1 series chassis, that way you've got the look, but modern running gear, power, and geometry.
  4. 2002Scoob

    My baby loves being rich.

    Granted I'm carb'd DCOE, but Brunhilde also idles best at around 12.5ish, any leaner and it roughens up and affects the idle transition.
  5. but experience is priceless... You hit the nail on the head. Do as much as possible yourself. Therefore, perhaps 'Time Spent=Money Saved' is a better analogy? I'm not paying myself, so I work on my car/hobbies in my 'free time'. If I put a typical shop-rate to my time spent, the value I'd have to put on the car would be laughable. And if I'd paid someone to do it for me, I'm not convinced the outcome would have been any better, with the caveat that my pockets would now be empty.
  6. Man... Really? What a bummer. It of course is the internet, so you should always err on the side of caution, but a quick look at post-count, post content, and reputation should tell you a lot. Ask questions, ask for photos, and do your research for values and negotiate accordingly. There's a sucker born every minute, don't be one of them. I've put a lot of trust in people to follow through on sales and haven't been disappointed yet, and people have done the same with me. I've even had people ship me rare euro parts for me to ferry back to the US on personal trips purely on the basis of trust. And I've operated in this way towards many on this board out of the same regard and never had an issue. Karma is everything, but the days of leaving your front door unlocked are over, so do your homework and be mindful of the people you do business with!
  7. 2002Scoob

    Bike rack advice

    Thanks!! Yah, that was from a few years back. Having a roof-rack is prime, and yep, I use mine allot. Good for hauling giant metal boxes full of wine, pipe, and and the Thule tray fits pretty much everything bike-wise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. 2002Scoob

    Bike rack advice

    If you look around the interwebs, you might find a set of vintage Thule gutter-mounts. I picked a set up, with cross-bars, for 30 euro. And me, being me, restored the shit outa' em. For the rack, I just got whatever Thule's modern tray-style mount is and bought that. Looks great, works great. Win-Win.
  9. I stopped counting a while ago, but I'd wager im in 18-20k total with the price of the car... 10k car ~6k Motor/drivetrain ~1k Wheels/Tires ~2k Suspension/brakes/Hardware ~1.5k Interior/Stereo ~1.5k body/rust repair And hundreds of personal hours in labor (other than machine work) because I'm a stubborn/frugal/inquisitive SOB who insists on doing as much as possible, myself. Still on the list is a 5-speed and refurbishment of the rear subframe + a LSD, then I'd consider the car pretty much completed. Unfortunately, I have decided to go another route, and either sell/trade the car to start a retro-electric conversion of another 02, Citroen DS, or something else. I unfortunately can only afford one project at a time. So, if Brunhilde gets converted i'm looking at another ~3.5k Electric Motor ~7k Batteries ~2.5k Misc. controllers and electronics.. ~XXX for reinforced suspension components/driveline/Brakes to handle the extra weight/power/speed/torque that'll be on hand. And if ya want photos- https://www.jeffjuarezdesign.com/brunhilde-1/
  10. Perhaps a few photos of the area of issue would also help in the diagnosis, but I think you're on the right track!
  11. and while you're in there, also replace your oil pump chain/cog, remove and inspect the oil-pump itself and replace. Replace your aging water pump... contemplate DCOE's.... but if you're going to go DCOE's, you likely want a bigger cam... and if you need a bigger cam, that means you gotta pull the head.... and if you pull the head.... Anybody remember that 'If you give a Mouse a Cookie' Book?
  12. You're opening a giant can of worms if you need to remove the lower cover as well, as you have to pull the forward crank pulley and oil pan, and there's a mess of other things to consider at that point. It's also the point at which you might be better off pulling the motor entirely. But if the motor is in good health and you're going that route, might as well pull the motor to check and replace your upper and lower timing cogs, tensioners/guides, and timing chain. If it's never been rebuilt... it's worth considering! #scope-creep.
  13. Front upper timing cover leaks are pretty common, and are usually due to a few things. 1, the cover was not machined at the same height as the head, and your leak is coming from between the valve-cover gasket due to a physical step between the height of the head and the front cover being different, then leaking down. 2. The upper timing cover was installed improperly. There is a proper sequence to tightening the bolts in order to achieve a tight fit in the lower corner. 3. The upper timing cover was installed without a dab of RTV silicone in the lower corners, which can also cause a small leak. You can carefully remove the upper timing cover and inspect, just be careful not to damage the forward portion of the headgasket when doing so. No need to remove the radiator, but removing the upper radiator hose in front of the cover that goes to the thermostat might make it easier. if you've got some flexy-joints to your ratchets, or your hands are good in small places, you might be fine. There are two paper seals that go between the forward face of the head and the front cover. You might be able to get away a garage-fix without them with a light smear of RTV, light torque, let set up, then clamp it down in the proper sequence. Experts out there, did I miss anything?
  14. As a data-point, I'm pretty sure I'm only running around 2psi on my DCOE's. How are you measuring float-height? Brass or Plastic? Hopefully with the gasket and the cover being held vertical as to not compress the needle valve.
  15. My guess is sticking float/needle valve, or your fuel pressure gauge isn't as accurate as you think.