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2002Scoob last won the day on June 29

2002Scoob had the most liked content!

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About 2002Scoob

  • Birthday 04/22/1985

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  • Location
    Freiburg, Germany
  • Interests
    Old slow cars, New Fast cars, Old Fast Cars, Mountain bikes, Traveling, Camping, Roadtrips, Beer, Wine, Coffee, Food.

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  1. If your tensioner was in backwards, that means the valve in it was too, which theoretically could mean your tensioner could have progressively just sucked itself back into the bore and your timing chain was completely loose for a time. If you haven't torn it apart already, it might be worth it to do a quick compression test, and turn over the engine by hand with the plugs out to see if you feel any resistance to make sure you didn't have any valve contact from throttle-lift/over run, meaning your pistons catching up with your exhaust valves. -says the guy who had the piston catch his valves once, but not due to a tensioner. What I can't speak to experience, is if without any chain tension, would an M10 be able to skip a tooth? Print out the Bluebook download that was provided and use that, don't go paying money for one. I used it almost exclusively (supplemented by a Haynes) when I rebuilt mine.
  2. Theoretically worse than that... If you've reached plastic deformation, it's going to be more willing to continue to stretch, potentially requiring more turns and making it harder to reach it's final torque because of it.... Potentially stretching the the hardware beyond elastic deformation and closer to failure, as Jimk refers to, reducing it's ability to maintain the clamping force needed to seal. Theoretically speaking, of course. *I'm no engineer/physicist. But I watch a lotta youtube on such things, haha. As a semi-paranoid person, I'd be tempted to just buy a few new bolts now, as it's much cheaper than having to replace ALL the bolts in the future if you have HG issues.
  3. Just wonderin'.... If you've already 'stretched' the bolts to plastic deformation, (i.e., they're now a tad longer and have internal strain?), to remove them and then go back in and torque a now longer bolt, you're inducing even more stretch than the first pass to reach the same torque... Plus the angle you'll add after that. Ergo, aren't you playing with fire to reuse them? I guess it all depends on how hot the flame.
  4. Caution... What one calls a transition jet, another calls an idle jet. And while a pump jet will help fill a hole on on fast throttle inputs, it won't save ya if your other jetting isn't right. Pump-jet is the one under the taller cylindrical brass cover with the flathead slot, forward of the 'transition' cover which has your progression holes. It's got a long and a short skinny section with a fat section in the middle with a flat. And the Flat faces forward. Don't forget the little alloy washers! I bought those in bulk, so every jet has it's own now so I don't have to fiddle trying to get a razor-blade behind it to wiggle 'em off.
  5. Meh, ya did well! Saw this one when it came out. Also cool to put a face/personality to a name.
  6. I wish. That, dear sir, is a dip. If that were a hole, then what I have would be the Verdon Gorge How Steven Describes it, and displays in his vid is pretty well aligned with the issues I've had getting. We also have very similar motors. 'built' 9.5:1 compression, and @Stevenc22, don't you also have a 292?' Uh huh. Sounds bout right! Yup. I feelz, your feelz.
  7. Yup. I bought a little run-about electric car here in Germany, and Brunhilde has only moved once since. (also the reason I haven't been posting or on the forums much...) I thought I had things pretty good from my most recent bouts of experimentation, but when I did drive it last, that damn 'hole' is still very much a thing, and it's just what you're experiencing. You're welcome to digg up my last thread and try some of my experiments... It's only been a few months but I can't even remember where I left off. There's something about 34 chokes in 40DCOE's that is a PITA to tune reasonably lean, reliable, and consistent with 34's and F16's. It opens up all sorts of issues I never had with the 32's, cept they didn't have much power up the RPM range. It's tempting to just go back to 'em and live with that my 02 will never really be a screamer. Till it's electric. Edit- Here ya go, that was my last effort-
  8. That van I found was quite the Unicorn.... Never to be seen again. I'm thinking it had to have been a pretty well done VW conversion back in the 70's-80's that had been loved to a nice patina. Cuz it was convincing....
  9. Don't get rid of it. like ya said, you'll regret it. If you've got a 2002 these days thats in OK condition, you're the proud owner of an appreciating asset. That's rare in today's world. So even if ya park it in the barn till you're in a better financial situation, it's not gunna hurt. As for rebuilding, as others have mentioned it depends on exactly what the issue is. Could be quick and easy, could be more indepth. But it's an M10.... they're pretty basic. As data-point, here in Germany I started with a tii bottom-end that the PO had started rebuilding but never finished. Bought it for like 5-600 euro, i think? I had that block and pistons checked, honed, line-bored, and the crank checked as well by a master machinist outside of town. At the same time, he reworked the head was previously rebuilt (poorly, by a POS mechanic....) with 8 new valves and HD valve springs, with some tricky machine work for piston clearance, and did a skim-pass all for 1100 euro. After that, it's just your time, and embracing the level of scope-creep ya wanna throw into new parts and fancy bits. You could get a runner with a LOT less money than I ended up tossing at mine, but in all honesty... I threw allot of bells and whistles at my build and it still wasn't too bad. ^^^ The lesson I learned above... skip the mechanic if you're on a budget, and go strait to the machine shop that mechanic is going to outsource the job to anyway, and do the assembly yourself. It'll save ya a ton of money. I went from a dead car, to being up and running in less than a month. And at the same time managed to strip the entire subframe assembly, have it all epoxy coated, and did a nut-bolt restoration to the whole front end 'while I was in there'. Another deciding factor is if your block is numbers matching, and if it's been bored over. Mine was matching but never bored, so that was also part of the decision to find a junker motor I could do whatever I wanted with and keep the #'s matching block in storage to preserve the value of the vehicle. Lots of ways this could go, but avoid getting rid of it if you don't need to.
  10. AMSOIL 20w50 synthetic here. I digg it. Nothing to back that claim other than my car hasn't melted down. Less than 7k km's on the motor, and callin' BS on anybody who says their M10 doesn't consume oil. haha. Also had good success (meaning, didn't have a failure because of it) with running Castrol Classic 20w50 dyno, too.
  11. Oh, don't worry. It's coming eventually. I think first will be wheels and tires. The plan is to put a mini over-land style roof basket on there, with a fork-mount bike tray so I can get to far flung (with in 70km) destinations to go shred
  12. Got Brunhilde an all electric little brother
  13. ?! I didn't even realise that was a thing. The things you learn Oh Germany. You baffle me again. Being able to stop in a more controlled, shorter distance is illegal.
  14. I've had good experiences with EBC Red stuff for the street/spirited mountain driving for the last several years, and have had them on other, much more aggressive cars before Brunhilde. But It doesnt appear that they do a red-stuff compound for our cars anymore....
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