2002Scoob

Solex
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About 2002Scoob

  • Birthday 04/22/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Freiburg, Germany
  • Interests Old slow cars, New Fast cars, Old Fast Cars, Mountain bikes, Traveling, Camping, Roadtrips, Beer, Wine, Coffee, Food.

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  1. I wouldn't be concerned about the gasket surfaces... that's not of issue. That deviation isn't much...I'd personally be tempted to throw a pair of wrenches on either side of the throttle shafts, and give them a light torquing to see if I could get better alignment. I had to do this on mine, but mine are 40-50 year old Italians with the brass/bronze(?) throttle shafts, whereas the newer ones like yours are steel and less flexible. If you're doing outside of the car, It helps to have a set of soft jaws you can clamp the carb-body in, put wrenches on either end of the shafts, roll them open, so you're not going to be bottoming out anything when ya start pulling, and then torque in the direction that'll yield a closer alignment. As with anything, start light and with small adjustments, and gradually apply torque. Don't go full ham! But... as others have said, you've paid for a product with the expectation it should function properly, so your best path might be to have the vendor correct the issue. And, the steel shafts might also dictate that twisting isn't a viable option.
  2. 2002Scoob

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    I think I'll re-read the tuning books and see what I can find :)
  3. 2002Scoob

    Steering idle arm tightness

    Wait for a few more people to chime in first... Don't go completely off my word! Haha. But yah, I remember feeling a bit sketchy about applying 58 ft lbs to that nut, and the drag from it feeling pretty heavy in-hand to pull it side-to-side. Maybe I also fubbed something, but more than a year on, and it handles and drives great. There's allot of load going through that assembly, especially with low-speed maneuvers, so I'm not surprised that you want it pretty torqued.
  4. 2002Scoob

    Steering idle arm tightness

    I replaced mine with new when I rebuilt my subframe, and I vaguely remember the steering arm being pretty stiff to move once torqued down.... But once assembled and being driven by a gear-reduced steering box, it feels just fine.
  5. 2002Scoob

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    I've got the float-height set to spec... The time I spent spent tweaking the two to be matched and dialed was ridiculous, so even if I don't remember what i set it at, it should be good. I'd assume a higher float equals richer overall, and lower is leaner? Tweaking this, if an intelligent path to go down, would be an easy experiment. But I'm a bit hesitant. how much is too much, or enough with such things? half mm, 1mm, .1mm? I've got a full metric drill-bit set I typically use that is scaled in tenths of a mm. -J
  6. 2002Scoob

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    ^^^ This is the area that I have the most suspicions about... Pump jets, and bleed/spill valves. Depending on the application of throttle and where, Things can get kinda rich (10.5-11.5) or pretty lean (15-16) on quicker throttle openings. I need to do some attentive driving to the what and where, so I can come back with relevant information.  What's people's thoughts on the above? What are others running as a pump jet/spill valve combo? I'm currently running #40 Pump Jets, paired with #70 Spill Valves.
  7. 2002Scoob

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    Eh.... I'm a glutton for pain and experiences. It's not of huge consequence.... And I want to be able to drive my little car guilt free for a long time. Or at least something old with allot character, and i'd like it to be an 02. And financially/space wise I can only afford one vehicle at at time. I've been mulling it over for a while now, and feel I could do it without any real serious modification to the body or frame. Plus, the motor that's in there is a whole lot of fancy stuff, but not the original block... so It doesn't necessarily need to live with the car. I have the numbers matching block in the basement that I've thought to slowly build back up into something special in my living room for decoration, haha. -New subframe, modified and beefed up to accept a motor. -Tube or Alloy front suspension arms -02 Underground rear end/Diff -Big-ol-brakes -Electric motor in the ballpark of 200hp/300ftlbs torque -Replace the tank/spare tire well with a battery tray, and a few extra under the rear-seats perhaps... -Melt tires, make smiles, help save the planet. Simple-ish? But that's for another thread... :)
  8. 2002Scoob

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    Oh man, thanks for all the great replies. I've been on Vacation in Rome the last week and haven't been active. I might revisit this... I've gotten the Idle to lean-up a bit by tweaking the adjustment screws, and have between a 12.8-13.5 AFR. That's with 55 F9's. That of course is dependent on a handful of variables like engine and atmospheric temperatures. I feel that so much is dependent upon everything be up-to-temp and adjusted for temp. I have suspicions of the throttle linkage expanding/twisting/relaxing that leads to super rich, low RPM idle at startup/cold temps. If I wanted to devote even more time to this setup, I'd look at making my own throttle linkage with more stable metals to help negate this. More on that later... In the past when I was first trying to nail down jetting, I think I had tried to go one-step smaller, and while I got it to idle fine, it went super lean on the progressions. My DCOE's have 3 progression holes, and I can't say that I feel any separation, but i could see where more, and smaller holes could make for a smoother, leaner curve. ^^^ This is the area that I have the most suspicions about... Pump jets, and bleed/spill valves. Depending on the application of throttle and where, Things can get kinda rich (10.5-11.5) or pretty lean (15-16) on quicker throttle openings. I need to do some attentive driving to the what and where, so I can come back with relevant information. --All in all, the carbs do work fantastically, as long as you understand that they're 50-60 year-old Italian mechanical technology. Meaning, fussy but fantastic, like all good things Italian. I love how my car drives, I'd just like it to be more efficient/consistent. I'm going to enjoy them for this driving season, and look into where I go from there. Maybe sell them for a set of Jenevy DCOE's, or start looking to sell the motor complete to do an electric conversion. Very much on the fence.
  9. Nah, I ditched mine. I don't drive the car in below-freezing weather, but still haven't had any trouble starting it when it is. S14 starter motor fixed all that. Cranks like a beast. I have thought about running one of those dremel-style flexy cables from the idle speed control screw, through the firewall, and to one of the little nobs that does nothing on either side of the instrument cluster.... that way I could just give it a turn when warming up to bring the idle speed up, and then back down again when it's warm.
  10. It's not that my car won't idle that low.... it just doesn't like it, or I haven't found a tune that made it like it... haha. When I first start my car cold, it's probably lobbing about at 4-600 until it warms up. Like @andrej, it'll do it and won't stall, but it's not necessarily happy, and requires a blip of the throttle to pull away. I could drop my idle when warm to probably 7-8, but I bet from cold It'll require constant throttle input to stay lit till it warms up a bit. I also have Polyurethane motor mounts, (I know, I know...) So a low idle causes rattles and shakes that aren't present when she's buzzing happily at 850-900.
  11. 2002Scoob

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    That’s what I had for vacuum advance, but my overall timing was more than it shoulda been in the first place... so the added advance was likely adding to the issue. Currently, it’s far less advanced at the moment, but I’d have to go pull the map from the car to tell you. I’m already up at my apartment with too many stairs and no elevator... so I can give actual curve tomorrow, haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 2002Scoob

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    Manifold. It's pulling from a T-barb I machined from brass and spliced into the vacuum hose going to the brake-booster, so behind the throttle-plates. The curve i used was pulled from... I think a map I saw in an thread post from Zinz. I just plopped it in and expected it to work like an ignoramoose.
  13. 2002Scoob

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    Well, I've got a 123 dizzy, so that option is there, and I do have it plumbed for vacuum advance and it works, I just haven't gotten it to work well. It was the root cause of a low RPM stumble when pulling away, and was effectively adding too much advance. With winter approaching I took that part of the map out cuz I didn't have the time to figure it out properly. Another thing I'd like the tuner to look into it's usefulness.
  14. 2002Scoob

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    Forever coming with good info, @TobyB Going to process it a bit... and think of how best to angle my next and last jetting approach with these 32's. I think I could afford one more small eurocarb order of under 30, or appx 1/2 tank of gas... as I think some better economy will save me at last that headed there, or more. Once I make it to Bavaria, in go 34's, as that's what I'd like him to tune with. The head is pretty much at minimum, and I think the max allowed machining is .5mm, and I vaguely remember my head basically being there, so 128.5ish?.. but it's got the .3mm thicker gasket in there... so ballpark it's got .2mm less height overall...ish. So by your math it's mayby only up a few tenths then overall. Never got it CC'd or did any crazy valve-work. Just hardened seats and exhaust valves are shaved down for more clearance, I forget how much. Again, great info! Danke :)
  15. 2002Scoob

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    'nuther data-point... Last weekend drove back-roads to Strasbourg on a sunday and back, with a full bike on the roof (shitty aero) and hitting all back-roads that are a mix of start-stop, 40-150kph and ringing her out most of the way. That took pretty much a full-tank, and was about 230k round-trip. Those Bavarian girls sure know how to drink!