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  1. Steve, No help on the Behr start date. The car has the Mark IV Custom John E. Mitchell Co. unit. It was installed in 3/71 as a $450 add on by the dealer - German Motors inc. of West Palm Beach. The car was produced on 12/28/70. As always, thanks for helping to fill in some of the gaps.
  2. OP - curious as to your air cleaner setup. Just wondering if the stock snorkel bringing in fresh air would help at idle? On a side note - your posts reference to a pusher fan in front of the radiator got me looking at the dealer installed setup on my father’s original owner ‘71. It appears it did not have a fan installed but I remember it always blew pretty cold air. We did have occasional overheating issues but that was regardless of AC. Now I wonder did the early dealer kits not use a fan or did the installer skip it.
  3. Did you have an oil pressure gauge installed? I’m guessing that the excessive clearance would show up as pretty low oil pressure. Good luck.
  4. This. Use the flywheel marks instead of the pulley. Top pulley is from a ‘70 m10, bottom from a 74. Note the keyways are lined up. The red marks are where the pulleys are notched. This picture shows where the early pulley marks are located when the cam, flywheel and later pulley are all in agreement on a ‘74 (about 5 o’clock). I wanted to use the earlier pulley to keep my AC.
  5. Try soaking the piston in thinner or hose it down throughly with solvent to see if the ball breaks free. You really shouldn’t need to take the piston apart.
  6. It was hard to tell from your video if the play was in the rotor fit or the shaft. Did you check for play without the rotor? I believe there were several different rotors used in these cars and the rotors were not all interchangeable. I’d have a hard time justifying the cost of a 123, particularly for an automatic. You might want to consider one of the IE mechanical units https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/tii-mechanical-advance-distributor-with-electronic-ignitor/
  7. You will need a plastic trim tool or paint sticks to help you poke the gasket edge into the grove. I found it helpful to use painters tape every few inches to help hold the seal in place and in the proper orientation. Leave the tape in place until you have the window back in to hold the seal or you may be starting all over again.
  8. Welcome to the O2 community. Here is a link to a place in Asheville that has made up some hydraulic lines for me in the past. https://www.crossco.com/locations/hose-and-fittings-stores/ Good luck
  9. You did take them for a drive I hope? If not they are probably available for a nice Sunday drive tomorrow. 👍
  10. You refer to your choke as “mechanical” but do you actually mean manual? All three choke types are mechanical to some extent. What is the choke plate position when the engine stalls? A choke that stays closed when the engine is warm will cause a flooding stall and prevent the engine from restarting until the excess fuel is cleared. Next time you start your engine leave the air cleaner off the carb until the engine is warm and you are sure the choke is open.
  11. Looks like your car has had a guibo let go at some point. Unfortunately it’s pretty involved to replace the selector housing. To keep you going while you are justifying the 5 speed you might try tapping the current seal further back inside the housing and add a new seal on top of it. I understand that there is room in the housing for up to three seals stacked. You might be able to build up the missing chunk with some JB Weld for additional support. I’m currently getting by on this type of arrangement. Yours actually looks a little better than where I started.
  12. Are you using an oversized aluminum radiator available from IE or WN? If so try searching with “IE radiator clearance” or “WN radiator” and you will find this is a common problem that can sometimes be alleviated by using the adjustment available in the entire driveline. There’s about 3/8” that you can gain by pushing the diff. to the rear which allows the trans. mount and pass. engine mount to follow. This will likely square up your engine and fan to the radiator and create additional clearance. You are correct that the curved piece is used to limit forward movement of the engine.
  13. Since you are new and have not finalized a deal it would be a good time to research the usual 2002 rust areas and have another look before committing. Our cars are somewhat rust prone and replacing body parts is expensive in labor and shipping. If the roof looks bad then the peddle box, drivers frame rail, lower front apron, rockers, rear wheelhouses, spare tire well, gas tank/right rear quarter area ... are all suspect. Hopefully not in this case but worth a hard look before settling on a price. Good luck. Sam
  14. Thought about drilling holes parallel to the bushing in the urethane mounts to add a little give? Just seems more like the molded in voids in the original mounts instead of solid material. Maybe go only part way through and offset like the originals. Crazy?
  15. Is anyone else having trouble playing these videos or is it just me on my iPad?
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