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According to the wiring diagram for my '76, the brake fluid reservoir switch has a single blue/brown wire on one connection and 3 brown wires tied into the other. Both of those connections then run to the Pressure Balance Switch, which has two blue/brown wires on one connection and two brown wires on the other. My guess is that those connectors are for your Pressure Balance Switch. No idea what that is though, mine didn't have one installed.

Big bumper? Here's my car before the tuck:

Figured I'd throw up a post with my car status as of the end of the year, list some high-level things on my to-do list this year, and an updated "how much I've spent" listing. Wrap Up Shortly after I painted the engine bay, I cleared out the garage and pushed the '02 in, so I could work on it in the cold Michigan weather I removed the wiring harness from the engine bay (wish I had done that before painting, was easier than I thought it would be), installed the IE pivot bearing/sleeve for the booster, hooked up the brake master, and ran Andrew's cunifer brake line kit in the front. Got the car up on Quickjacks, pulled the driveshaft off, and ran the brake line to the rear T. Also test-fit Andrew's headlight covers Lowered the car back down and dropped the engine in: I then used a Harbor Freight engine bar to keep it from flopping over, and then raised it back up. Things to do for 2019 (in no particular order) Install RHD Engineering lightweight flywheel, new Sachs clutch, and Getrag 240 5-speed trans. Bleed brakes Install Speedhut Speedo + Tach in my instrument cluster with CF vinyl + Dash cover (Teaser pic for my next blog entry*) Repair passenger side floorpan + heater hole in firewall (bottom lip is rusted away) Make new engine bay wiring harness using a Delphi connector Start engine for first time Rebuild rear subframe/suspension/brakes Install Limited Slip Diff Gut trunk (what little remains of it), install 16 gallon aluminum fuel cell in stock location, run new fuel line, install EFI pump Finish interior Enjoy my '02 for the first time ever How much I've spent so far This has all the engine rebuild stuff, so I'll start with the total and then itemize below that. Previous total - $10,006 Engine rebuild - $5,027 Front Susp/Brakes/Rust Repair - $2,723 Running Total - $17,756 And I'm probably forgetting stuff. Engine Rebuild Costs: Front Suspension/Brakes/Rust Repair: *Blog entries are not guaranteed

Very nice. What radiator are you running? What microcontroller are you using?

It's personal preference. I like the IE air dam, but I also think it needs a bumper installed to complete the look. (Not an IE made air dam, but same design)

Nice choice! I have an E39 M5 as well, my dream car ever since I saw the BMW films "Star" episode. My wife has a Golf R I have a Durango SRT for a daily driver, the M5, and a bunch of project cars (the '02, Audi A4, XR4Ti, '67 Chevy II, VW MKII Jetta) The M5 doesn't get driven much though, a twin disk clutch gets old real fast in heavy traffic. I don't have a good pic of my M5, but I do have a dyno pull vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoWfaMrEeIE

If it's just the frame rail that is rotted, you can probably safely drive it. On mine, the frame rail, the floorpan, the inner rocker, and part of the firewall were gone. Pictures of mine and the repair I did: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/entry/1729-2018-catchup-2-rust-repair/

Dashtop - http://www.dashtop.com/products/dash-cover-1968-1976-bmw-2002 Got it from Auto Parts Warehouse for $100 shipped https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/interior-accessories/dash-and-dash-accessories/dash-cover/dashtop/das210415013

You have the E21 hubs? They require 57.1mm hubcentric rims, depending on which BBS rims you have, you may need an adapter. My BBS RS are from a SAAB, so I had to get some adapters for them. As for the lug nuts, I think they're standard conical type (but may differ depending on which BBS rims you have). Are you running lug bolts or studs/nuts?

Done! Dash cover on and GPS receiver hidden under the cover.

I'll let you know once I get there. Until then, I'm easily at $15K and the car is still a work in progress

Got my gauge cluster finished up. No installed pics yet, the dash is extremely cracked and I'll be putting a dash cover on it before it goes back in.

There are numerous threads about this on other forums, the thinking is that they are all made by the same company (Deka) but are labelled based on how they test after being manufactured.

When you say "off throttle" do you mean completely off throttle? If so, it's possible you're actually too rich or you have an ignition problem. If you're dumping fuel in and it doesn't ignite, then it's not consuming the oxygen, so you can show lean no matter how much fuel you're putting in. Usually it's normal to not use fuel on decel for emissions/mpg purposes (unless you have a turbo, but that's another story) If you stomp on it, accelerate, and then let off, and throw in the clutch, does it stumble and stall, or settle back to idle (clutch still pressed in) Are you injecting fuel on decel, and if so, why?

Wow, was it sitting for a while?

Got rid of the woodgrain on my instrument cluster. Sanded it off, painted it, and put on 3M di-noc carbon fiber vinyl Still working on getting the Speedhut speedo and tach in though. Looking good so far:

The 38 will bolt up to a stock manifold, just keep in mind the transition isn't ideal. Here is the size difference of a 38 hole on the stock manifold: Here it is opened up, I just tried to angle it in

My car won't see cold weather either, I'm more concerned with it sitting for 4-5 months unused. I've killed a few normal batteries in my E39 M5, but I have a bad habit of not putting a maintainer on it until after it gets really cold.

The Crank Amps is just that, amps available for cranking the engine. Everything else will run off your alternator once the engine is running, so you'll need to size an alternator that will run all your electrical needs + charge the battery. If the engine isn't running, then you look at the reserve capacity, which is 24 minutes @ a 25 amp load (per Odyssey's website for the PC680) before the battery is considered drained. I have no idea how much actual run time you will have and still be able to crank the engine, but I suspect it's considerably less than 24 minutes.

Keep us updated on how it fares through a NY winter. I was originally going to move my battery to the trunk, I've already removed the stock battery tray, but since the Lithium battery is so small and lightweight, I may go that route and just mount it in the original spot to the fender. Keep it simple and no added weight/complexity with running cables to the back.

It's only 170 CCA I'm not sure what the 680 stands for, its PCA rated at 520

How long have you had it? I've read a lot of bad reviews about Li-Ion longevity in cars.

On a related topic, are all 3 drains needed? The driver's side tube is in the way of where I want to run my wire harness and I'm thinking about removing the tube and plugging the hole.

Is there a special link for a package deal? If I price it out separately it's $1000

That pedal box isn't looking all that great either. You'll have to see how bad the rust is, if it's just that spot, you can patch it. Otherwise Walloth & Nesch makes a good replacement floor pan piece. Here's how I tackled mine: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/entry/1729-2018-catchup-2-rust-repair/ My pedal box was toast, had to find another, which I rebuilt with IE's kit, also got their gas pedal assembly that bolts to the floor.