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About this blog

I am starting to install a Holley Sniper EFI on my 2002,  if it proves to be interesting, I will post it here. 

Entries in this blog

Now for a nice tune.

So I ran some errands this morning.  I decided to put on the data logger and here is what I got.  You can download the sniper EFI tool (windows only) at the following link. The timing should be accurate to within a degree or so.  I am running a 123 so I can change the advance and vac curves.   This is all I know, I need to learn from here.      https://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_sniper1.1.3installer.zip         Regards             sniper_0003.dl

Dudeland

Dudeland

It Works? !!!!

So it is in and works.   But I can't tell how well it works because the Linx cable linkage that I modified sucks.  The gas pedal is more like an on-off switch, very sticky.  I haven't drifted the car so much in my life.  Genuinely entertaining, but quite harry at the same time, especially in downtown traffic.    So I am in the midst of getting some bits made so I can use my sweet sweet heim joints.   I am copying what Australian Vespa Guy did with an L bracket thing mounted to the brake booster.   I have attached the first start video, but the linkage sticks, so the TPS hangs at 1% about half of the time (no closed loop learning), so setting the idle is useless until I straighten out the linkage.    Kind regards and thank you all for your support.  Much more to come.    First Start.m4v                  

Dudeland

Dudeland

Repent and Ye will be saved

Ok, so I put in an MSD 6A a while ago, I was in a bit of hurry with the intent of coming back later and tidying it up after I knew that it would work.   So now is the time I fixed it up.   Here is what I pulled out of it.   I know I am not the only one to have done something to come back and fix up later... but still what a pile of shit job I did.   Everything is now soldered, shrink wrapped, taped and zip tied.    I am off to finish the wiring today, purge the fuel lines to get the residue of rubber out of them from putting the ends  Perhaps the first start today although I have a meeting that I can't avoid that will eat up some time.   Also, I took the opportunity to remove the wiring for the smog stuff.                 

Dudeland

Dudeland

Progress

The fuel pump is in and wired, 02 sensor is installed. Coolant system buttoned up.    Return line completed.  I have a -6 header fitting, but no space on the fuel pickup to put it, so I plumbed in the return to the breather pipe that the California cars have in the tank.   Not a permanent solution (I promise).   I am taking it first thing to my fabricator to install the 02 bung properly, and I will have him put in the -6 header when I am at it.  And have him check everything over to make sure it is safe.    Wires are through the firewall, and it seems like a spaghetti monster has exploded under the dash.   I cleaned up the smog stuff, but am hesitant to take it all off, just in case there is something crucial there. I will have to read through the posts for de-smogging.   I will likely clean up the wires going to the MSD, as I was using the original coil wire (sans resistor).    I got the wrong sensor adaptor for the carb, so will have to make due and get a -6 to -6 male to accommodate the fuel pressure sensor.    The carb is just sitting there.  I need different bolts, as the plate kit came with SAE instead of metric screws to go into the intake.   The linkage is looking super easy to fabricate, with a couple of heim joints and threaded rod,  so I don't think I will need the Linx wire linkage.   So getting closer, perhaps I test fire by the weekend   Enjoy                          

Dudeland

Dudeland

How much pressure am I under!!!???

Ok so in light of the fact that fuel pressure is very, very important to fuel injection operating correctly.  I decided to get a digital fuel pressure gauge for the car.  With old gas tanks, and aftermarket parts and fuel system, you really don't know how the car is going to react.  Rather than guessing what it is, or if something is going wrong, I can take fuel pressure out of the pool of questions.   I also wanted to see the change in fuel pressure under different driving conditions.    Worst case scenario, I replace my existing oil pressure gauge with this one, as it matches my current AEM afr gauge.     The Sniper EFI allows you to manually correct for actual fuel pressure in the software.  So it can factor in pressure that may be slightly higher or lower than the desired fuel pressure of 59-60 PSI.  The -6 to -6 fitting will also help because the existing -6 coming from my tank will be too short, as I realized only later that the fuel inlets will be facing forward.    If this thing does work then I will likely replace the pump with a returnless in tank unit when I get my gas tank re-done.  At some point in the tank's history, the bottom was dented in, not enough to really worry about, but it still needs to be addressed.      So this morning while I was having my coffee I came up with this from Summit.    AER-FBM2183 FITTING Ready to Ship $9.99 1 $9.99  (-6 an to -6 an with a 1/8 NPT hole for fuel pressure sensor) AVM-30-4401 FLUID PRESSURE GAUGE OIL/WATER Ready to Ship $195.79 1 $195.79 (fuel pressure gauge, although it says oil/water) SUM-220687 -06 90 HOSE END SWIVEL Ready to Ship $12.59 1 $12.59 (swivel fitting for fuel) SUM-220688 6AN 120 DEGREE HOSE END Ready to Ship $15.29 1 $15.29 (swivel fitting for fuel) SUM-220690 6AN HOSE END STRAIGHT Ready to Ship $4.49 1 $4.49 (swivel fitting for fuel) SUM-220691 6AN 150 DEGREE HOSE END Ready to Ship $15.29 1 $15.29 (swivel fitting for fuel)    Express shipping to Canada hurt a little  ($40 vs 18) and brokerage was higher by about $15,         

Dudeland

Dudeland

Intake back and a bit of a mock up

So I got my intake back... in one day.  I think he is getting a little excited to see this thing going.  Some more picks.  I thought that there may be an interference problem with the coolant pipe that comes out by the carb, but it is on an angle and will not interfere with the TPS sensor on the EFI.      I realized after the mock-up that the fuel inlets will have to be around the front since the throttle lever needs to hang over the side to work.  This is something I needed to commit to right up front because the flange and adapter are offset.  I tried flipping it around and nothing lined up.   Perhaps I could mod the throttle lever to work on the other side, but I feel that the lever rotation towards the firewall will make it easier to put together a linkage.  Also If it ends up not working, It will be saleable.    I had to order a new water diverter, I could feel the pitting on the inside of the pipes, so it is just a matter of time before it pushes through all the way, and I have a leak.      I also ordered a linkage kit for a Link manifold.  I thought it was the most flexible option I have at this point, although I am not willing to let go my beautiful heim jointed linkage just yet. (silky smooth)    I had the port on the intake drilled and tapped for the 3/8 npt coolant sensor, It should be ok, but I will double check.   I could be wrong, but it looks like a standard GM unit.  I had the other vacuum ports for the emission hoses welded shut as well.   I had the intake ports matched to the head. I had read that had helped.  Also, I ordered a 1 1/4" flex-hone, to help smooth out the casting in the intake.  I am not taking it down all the way to a polish, but just smooth it out a bit.    Now back to the stupid heater box.  So dam fiddly, I will be glad once it is in.  Every time I think I have all the cracks fixed, I find more.  It should be in by Monday... make that Thursday or whenever...  The weather is gorgeous here in Vancouver, and I will be spending as much time as I can with my family.     .            

Dudeland

Dudeland

Unboxing and anticipated problems, but nothing big.

So I quickly realized that the adapter for the Holley to Weber is for an approximately 36MM bore,  the Sniper is 40mm bore, no biggie, I have to get the intake off and hogged out, so I will get my guy to make it bigger at the same time.  I am pulling off the intake tonight (hopefully) to get my guy to work on it tomorrow.    The height seems ok, the EFI with the adapter is about 10CM to the air cleaner mounting surface, I measured the Weber to be a bit over 11CM, If I were to include the adapter I use, it would add about another CM on top of that because my adapter sits proud of the lip of my 32/36.  So air cleaner clearance seems ok.    So it is kinda like putting a 40x40 DGV Weber carb... The question will still remain if it will flow properly at idle. Because the Sniper is synchronous and the 32/36 is progressive, It will be that more fun to tune.    Here are some measurements of the height of the sniper vs a regular 32/36.   Enjoy,  I will post some pre and post pics of the intake.     

Dudeland

Dudeland

Temp Gauge location

In an attempt to expedite the changeover to the Sniper, I want to pre-drill a fitting.  Can anybody add to what is mentioned in the forums?.  I am thinking in the housing going into the head...... Is everybody ok with that?  or do we have hose people as well?     I would love to know.     

Dudeland

Dudeland

Tech Boner, 77 pages of math that will manage my car.

I am a big data entrepreneur in real life, so this has got me thinking about the data coming from the engine and how its interpretation results in the adjustment to the air valve and the injectors.    I have read the manual.  The first time I was was completely sober, along with the second and third time... the fourth time... not so much.  It seemed to sink in the fourth time around a lot more.  The way that this system allegedly manufactures the digital version of real-life parts of a carburated system is fascinating, like a choke, accelerator pump, the prime you get when you set the choke. It is also interesting how it accommodates physical anomalies in the engine as it warms.   I haven't quite got my head around the learning algorithm, and how it can be dialed in, overlays etc...  I think I may need to dust off a big Bordeau that I have been holding onto for the past 15 years and load up on a nice rib steak from my favourite meat shop (no offence to the vegans of which there are a lot in Vancouver) and settle in. I am about to re-do my heater box, and since the cooling system is open, I think I will drill and tap the housing.  The cooling sensor that comes with it is 3/8 NPT, with adapters to 1/2 inch if needed.   A long time ago I got the 11mm manifold bots from Ireland engineering, which I will use when I reinstall the manifold and the coolant diverter.    Pictures to come, but much more likely a video, I have felt that the GoPro in my house has been underutilized.  Sniper 2BBL EFI Manual.pdf

Dudeland

Dudeland

F'it

So I finally stopped navel gazing and ordered the gear up to install a Holley Sniper 2BBL EFI system.   The parts list is below.  
HLY-558-443 HARNESS USB/CAN SNIPER TBI $49.95
SNE-550-849 2 BBL EFI THROTTLE BODY $849.95
SUM-230615 S.S. HOSE -6 15FT $57.99
SUM-251000 FUEL PUMP EXTERNAL $119.99 (ordered this as the Holley unit seems to fail quickly in some cases)
SUM-251010 FUEL PUMP MOUNTING KIT 1 $7.99
VPE-16612 -6AN TO 10MM X 1.0 METRIC STR  $11.90   Also ordered a Holley 350 (same base plate as the Holley EFI)  to Webber adapter.  Anticipating that I may want to go EFI I have installed the following already  1) AEM wideband 02 sensor 2) Electric fuel pump with a Painless Performance relay harness 3) Inertia safety cutoff switch (cuts off the fuel pump in an accident) 4) 90A alternator 5) Ireland engineering  radiator  (to make sure that everything is cool) 6)-6 braided fuel line from the tank into the car (pre-pump, post tank) 7) All (I think) of the maintenance stuff and while you are at it stuff.    Things I will need to do other than the obvious.  1) I will likely have to take off the intake.  It has to be "hogged out" to make the intake opening compatible with the EFI unit.   2) I will port match the intake to the head and maybe smooth out the inside a bit.   I had read that the two inner runners shouldn't be touched, and just do the outside two runners as this will help even out the flow.  3) I will also modify the bit where the upper rad hose goes into the motor to accept a standard temperature sensor so the EFI can be appropriately tuned.  4) I may have to get a -6 inlet put in the gas tank as a return as the one for the evap tank (my car is a 1975 Cali spec) is rather small and may cause fuel backpressure issues if the return line is restricted.  5) I will have to figure out the pedal linkage, this is easy stuff,  my fabricator guy, and I can figure a solution out I am sure.                     

Dudeland

Dudeland