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Mike G

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  1. Have you taken off the valve cover to have a look?
  2. NMNA but might be worth a look if you’re local https://salem.craigslist.org/pts/d/independence-bwm-parts-car/6923090674.html
  3. Yes, on the outside of the box is an arm that links the rod to the vertical throttle rod on the firewall. Loosen the bolt, adjust the arm to where you want and tighten.
  4. What about rotating the rod down, would that move the bearing out?
  5. Would moving the pedal mount forwards eliminate the gap between the bearing and pedal?
  6. If you use the fixed camber plates you won’t need longer studs. I’m using them with a brace and have plenty of thread, the longer threads go up.
  7. The aluminum spacer was meant to raise the front of the vehicle to get the bumper to the required height. Most people remove it to lower the front for appearances. Early cars didn’t have that spacer. The fixed camber plate from IE adds 5/8’ of camber to improve handling. You’ll need to knock the studs out of your new strut bearings to install the camber plates. I don’t think you’ll be able to reinstall the aluminum spacer with your new strut bearings as the studs don’t look long enough. Id install the camber plates, leave out the aluminum spacers. If the nose looks lower than the rear go to a thinner spring pad in the back. They have dots to determine thickness, less dots are thinner so if you a two dot go to a one dot, etc.
  8. Kooglewerks has a slick tool to aid installation http://www.kooglewerks.com/products/bmw-2002-drip-rail-molding-installation-tool
  9. Based on your name I’m assuming this is in a tii? Did you use the taller 323 throw out bearing when you did the swap?
  10. I’ve copied this from c.d.iesel from an early thread. Redline MTL is also highly recommended. "Drain & refill with Dexron ATF (at any gas station) it is high detergent & will clean the sludge on the slider hubs & internals parts.." drain refill, drive 100, drain refill, drive 100, drain refill . buy a pressure brake bleeder to flush the clutch and brake fluids completely - you might find that all your gear crunching was caused by just nasty hydraulic fluid. Brakes and clutch always work better after flushing - once a year! and when everything is normal - still give the gearbox a break! shift slowly and feeel the lever into the next gear, especially until the oil and metals have warmed up.
  11. 1st is hard to get into from neutral while stopped or are you trying to downshift into 1st? What oil are you using.
  12. Metric mechanic rebuilds them with a tapered roller bearing if you have $4200 burning a hole in your pocket http://metricmechanic.com/transmissions/
  13. Have you eliminated other issues like shift linkage and platform?
  14. Replaced the brake light switch. That little guy kept me off the road for a week.
  15. The drop sway bar is fine. What transmission are you planning to use with the m20? That’ll determine how much you have to massage the transmission tunnel and if carpet will fit.

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