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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

xr4tic

Kugelfischer
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About xr4tic

  1. That Retroject looks cool, but at $520 (todays currency exchange rate) it's pretty expensive, and you still need all the EFI stuff to go with it. David's TBI project looks more promising, used throttle bodies are plentiful in the junkyard and cheap.
  2. As far as I know, this is a 38/38 thread, and I'd like to keep it that way if possible, lots of good info in here that mostly applies to the 38.
  3. lol, this thread was started 6 years ago. Anyways, maybe try his website? http://www.classicdaily.net/product/5-speed-bracket-for-2002/
  4. In addition to rebuilding the carb, I also installed an electric fuel pump and regulator. The Weber carbs are picky when it comes to fuel pressure and the mechanical pump was providing too much pressure. I started a post about trying to use a regulator with a mechanical pump, and it just wasn't feasible without having to run fuel hose all over the engine bay. It also details some of the part I bought Carb reinstalled with fuel pump block off plate and new inline filter (Mr. Gasket universal filter) The fuel pump block off is Empi 31-3011 as used on air-cooled VWs. You can find them all over ebay for cheap, or pay more for the same item from a BMW aftermarket supplier You can also see the cooling system is finished and electric fan wired up with a coolant temp switch in the coolant housing. The heater core lines are just plugged at this time because the heater box hasn't been put back in. Fan relay and distribution block - https://www.bluesea.com/products/5045/ST_Blade_Compact_Fuse_Blocks_-_4_Circuits Holley 12-804 Fuel Regulator installed: I wanted to mount a fuel pressure gauge, but had issues finding a good one. The oil filled ones weren't accurate unless you vented them every time you wanted to check them and they could only be mounted with the vent straight up. The non-oil gauge just bounced too much. I ended up adding a fuel schrader valve so I could hook up a typical fuel pressure gauge tester: http://www.dieselorings.com/schrader-valve-fuel-injection-rated-1-8-mnpt.html Fuel pump in trunk, Carter P60504 inline pump, includes a filter. I replaced the leaky Ansa center resonator with another Ansa (non-sport) While I was at it, pulled the rear bumper off in prep for a tuck: And pulled the diamond plate out of the trunk to see how bad it was: Yep, it's bad: While I was doing the cooling system, I got rid off the overspray in the headlight area and painted the grill. Also mounted some new Hella lights - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G72SKQ/ And also painted the wiper motor cover and arms to get rid of the orange overspray: No pictures, but replaced a leaky rear wheel brake cylinder and installed a new ST front sway bar to match the rear ST bar. I thought the one I had was stock, turns out it was an old ST bar, but was a bit rusty and the bushings were shot. Head Lights $70.00 Front Swaybar $165.00 rear wheel cylinder $20.00 fuel pump $39.00 fuel hose $21.00 regulator $30.00 block off plate $14.00 fuel filter $10.00 schrader valve $15.00 Center Exhaust Pipe $70.00 Temp Switch $20.00 Power Distribution Block $25.00 Running Total $9,566.00
  5. There are two types, mine is the later type with the plastic valve inside. There is a good rebuild article here: I cleaned up the housing and top by soaking it in a 50/50 mix of white vinegar/water mix, just be careful if you have put any of the steel components in the mix, the vinegar will eat them up.
  6. Alternatives: Use the stock flywheel as-is: 16-17lbs JB Aluminum Flywheel - 8 lbs - $500 (free shipping) IE offers a lightening service - 12-13lbs - $200 + 2-way shipping Find a local machine shop that can lighten yours - 12-13lbs? I called a local place and their shop rate is $75/hour, I'm guessing 1-2 hours to lighten and balance?
  7. Now that winter is over and the weather is nice again, it's time to do some more work on the '02. But first, I'm long overdue for a catch-up post, so here it is. With all the cooling hoses off, I pulled the heater box out. The fan didn't work and the heater valve cable was broke. Pulled the box: The heater valve and broken cable: Inside of the old valve: Lots of WD-40 to break free up the lever/cable clamp: I used the rebuild kit from Blunt for the Heater Valve, bought a new fan motor off Amazon, and a new Bowden cable from Rogers tii I needed a solution to mount the old fan to the new motor, this is what I came up with: I bought some aluminum collars off Amazon and brazed them to the fan. Be very careful, too much heat will warp the fan. I spent a lot of time getting it straight again. Collars: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063KT4LW Cleaned up the overspray on the cover and gave it a fresh coat of paint: I took the heater core to a radiator shop, they cleaned it and checked it for leaks, didn't even charge me. The heater box is all assembled and ready to go back in. Unfortunately, I discovered the source of the water leak in my car: The bottom lip is almost completely rusted away. I'm not sure if I should just cover it up with an epoxy paint and seal it real good, or have a new piece welded in. I'll save that decision for later. While the heater core was out, I figured I might as well clean up the wiper box, it had lots of overspray on it too: I got another intake manifold, but didn't like the carb spacer the PO had used, it looks like it was for a 32/36, so I bought a 1/4" thick phenolic sheet and made my own Who says adults can't play with crayons? Made a rubbing of the bottom of the carb Used my dremel to cut out the spacer, here compared to what was on there: Overlay comparison: The intake holes had to be opened up: Fresh coat of cast aluminum engine paint and mounted: Can't put the old carb on it without a rebuild, right? So apart it comes, crud inside: Crud in the filter: Had to make my own gaskets: And that's where I'll leave it. More to post for the catch up later. Updated numbers: Heater valve repair $92.00 Blower Motor $70.00 Collar $8.00 Bowden Cable $45.00 intake manifold $100.00 Phenolic $13.00 Carb Rebuild Kit $100.00 Weber Jets $50.00 Running Total $9,067.00
  8. Bumping this up because I'm considering getting one. Curious if anyone is running one yet.
  9. I haven't tried that one, I'll have to look into it. I'm running the EL-13 as posted in an old thread - https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/85984-signal-flasher-upgrade-easy-to-do-what-a-difference/ It doesn't like LEDs in both front and rear though, fast flashing, so I still have normal bulbs in the front.
  10. Judging by the pics of the engine bay, even if you're not doing a color change, it would still be worth dropping the engine and painting the engine bay, I see a lot of rust and different colors in there already.
  11. Just to add though, if you run the resistor across the LED, if the LED dies, the self check feature will not work, the resistor will still put load on the circuit. You're better off getting a flasher made for LEDs.
  12. Black goes with anything I guess. As for ease of paint, I would say spray-bombing an engine bay black is far easier to do yourself than trying to color match it to the body, unless you have the proper paint gun and equipment. The best would be to drop the engine now and have everything prepped/painted one color, but if you're doing it in two steps, black works.
  13. I doubt that is a sensor, it only has 2 wires on it and the case isn't grounded in any way. If there is no vacuum line running to it, then it's doing nothing and you can safely unplug/remove it.
  14. I like the lower trim delete, and you can't go wrong with orange. But really, it's up to you what you want to do. If you do decide to change the color, you can always paint the engine bay black later. I'll most likely paint my engine bay black over the winter, then take care of the body work afterwards. Here's my Inka orange with lower trim delete (badly done by the PO unfortunately)