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xr4tic

Kugelfischer
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About xr4tic

  • Birthday November 6

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  1. I'm still working on re-wiring the car, so it will be a bit before I can even test it out. Plenty of room for a charge pipe though, ~6" of space between it and the alternator.
  2. I got the 480CA version, they also offer 680CA and 900CA versions. They're bigger/slightly costlier, but cheaper/smaller than getting 2 batteries.
  3. The W&N pieces are not an exact fit, you will find they line up in one spot, but not another. Pretty sure I test-fit mine at least twenty times and came out with a different result every time. Trim it the best you can and you might need a hammer to bend some of the pieces to match up, I found the tunnel area to be the most difficult, presumably because the W&N piece is for auto and manuals, and they have different size tunnels. A copper backing plate help immensely to fill in large gaps. here's my before/after pics:
  4. Made my Ant-Gravity battery tray. All angle steel, pretty sure it weighs more than the battery. I did screw up though, put the hold down bar directly over the Reset button, nothing a hole can't fix, and a pen. Now just waiting for the paint to dry before I install it.
  5. What's your budget? Expected downtime? Care about originality? If you answer: not unlimited, low, and not really, then I suggest finding another head, (E21 works if you have flat top pistons), having it rebuilt, then swapping it out. If you're not rebuilding the bottom end for higher compression, then there's no point in going crazy with the head, but plan on replacing almost everything - springs/rockers/eccentrics/shafts/etc (peace of mind is worth it) When I had mine rebuilt, the machinist noted the valves were quite worn, so I had to buy new ones, the IE stainless valves were cheaper than stock replacements (same size). Also added the single spring HD valves and chromoly retainers (cheap insurance) Alternatively, find a good used head, plop it on, and rebuild the original.
  6. Keep in mind the adapter will raise the sensor up quite a bit. If it's one of those huge VDO sensors, it might interfere with the distributor and you'll need one of those 90 degree banjo bolt adapters. My Speedhut sensor, with adapter (M12 x 1.5), I wish it wasn't so tall, but plenty of room. The speedhut coolant sensor adapter (no pic) I used was M14 x 1.5 and I was able to use an NPT tap to make the sensor flush with the adapter.
  7. I pulled the trigger on a set of these. FWIW, there are quite a few places that sell aluminum (or wood) door cards for about the same price, but none of them are powdercoated, so that's a big advantage. I'm planning on running them as-is until I get the rest of the car sorted out, then I'll probably cover them up.
  8. My Audi A4 1.8T had sodium filled valves from the factory (exhaust side) I say had because when I went to bigger valves, I went with SS valves....or maybe it was inconel, I don't remember, was a long time ago. Definitely not sodium filled though. If price is no object, or it's a couple bucks more, go for it, but IMHO, they're not necessary at all.
  9. Agreed, I don't see the point in using all the EDIS equipment if the EFI unit can handle it. I'm leaning towards a microsquirt and having the VR sensor run directly to it and letting it fire the coils (wasted spark, probably LS coils which are cheap/plentiful)
  10. Looks like an inductive wheel, triggered by magnets. I can't tell how many magnets are in it, but I'm guessing just 4?
  11. Assuming your charging system is in good condition, you don't need to do anything special to run a Li ION battery. Just make sure it's not putting out too much voltage. You'll need a special charger for maintenance/out of the vehicle, I bought the one recommended by the battery company (Anti-Gravity) https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-926-LITHIUM-Automatic-Phosphate/dp/B00EUF6UM8 I figure if I do have an issue and have to talk to them, I can show that I'm using their recommended charger.
  12. Ignorance is bliss, don't pull the sprocket off unless you're willing to swap the cam (the broken part), which requires pulling the head.
  13. Started working on the wiring to relocate the fuse box inside
  14. Lots of info here: I bought an AntiGravity ATX-12-HD and will be mounting it in the stock location - weighs 3 lbs, is 1/3rd the size of the original battery, and I won't have to mess with running thicker cables through the car.


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