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About xr4tic

  • Birthday November 6

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Detroit, MI

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  1. Headlight Upgrade Options

    I bought these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G72SKQ/ They're Hella e-codes and the price was right. The engine blew shortly after install, so no review yet. Looks good in my driveway though lol.
  2. I have a 15 gal RCI unit that I plan on putting in the same spot as the factory tank because I want to keep the center exhaust, it should fit if I mount it sideways. I'll most likely use a tanks inc TBI fuel pump module - http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm My trunk floor is pretty much non-existent and the PO rigged up some aluminum to hold in the stock tank: The one thing I haven't figured out yet is how to keep the stock fuel filler.
  3. This one? It's for a water-activated choke, runs from the block to the carb to the intake manifold. If you don't have a water choke, you can buy a plug for it - PN 11111254189
  4. If the aluminum is the heat shield, does the foam actually provide any heat insulation or is it mainly for sound?
  5. Rear Disc Brake Conversion

    While I would normally agree, the calipers being on the bottom really bug me. I know it's fully functional, but it just doesn't look right to me.
  6. not sure if a Holley 350 is the same as a 2300, here's an adapter if it is: https://www.lceperformance.com/Adapter-Holley-350-to-Weber-Manifold-Adapter-Kit-p/1033012.htm if it bolts up, it looks like it will work, the only potential problem I see is timing control. The instructions only show timing control hookups using an MSD "mag" distributor and all the threads on the Holley forum asking about Pertronix with timing control are met with a response of "buy a Holley dual sync distributor" There's also a few threads with getting it to work in a non-timing control manner with a Pertronix and people frying the ECU, so beware.
  7. you'd need an adapter for sure and might have to worry about hood clearance if the adapter + TB unit is a lot taller than a weber. It specifies a 58.5psi fuel pressure requirement (built in FPR), so you'll need a high pressure pump and return line
  8. There's also Retroject, an EFI throttle body that is bolt on for a 38/38 - http://www.webcon.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=15299 Not cheap though. Not sure why you're deadset against Megasquirt, it's more than capable of handling the basic EFI needs that you're looking for (batch fire + coil trigger with stock distributor). Haltech or similar EFI units would be overkill My plan, for right now anyways, is to try adapting an old GM 2-barrel TBI unit to a 2-barrel manifold and controlling it with a MS, either as a fuel-only unit and using 123tune distributor or have it trigger the coil as well for adjustable timing. This will keep the factory looks but be fully adjustable. Eventually I'd probably swap to a distributor-less wasted spark setup, something the MS can handle easily. I could care less about resale value, I'm building the car that I want.
  9. Michigan member roll call

    There's a few of us in the Metro Detroit area, checkout the Midwest regional forum for a couple of threads.
  10. Crankfire trigger wheel size

    Lots of factors. What teeth count? What sensor? More teeth would need a larger wheel to ensure sensor readability. I don't think you can go too big, but you can be too small. diyautotune offers 36-1 trigger wheels from 4" up to 8", so I think you'll be fine with anything in between - https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/sensors-data-logging/trigger-wheels/
  11. I installed a Crane XR3000 electronic ignition on mine. You don't need a ballast wire on the coil with it and can run a lower resistance coil, something I don't think the Pertronix can do. I didn't get a lot of miles on it though before the head cracked so I can't really give a review on it. I also bought a 123tune distributor as part of the group buy, but it's still in the box. And then as part of my engine rebuild, I bought an 02again crank trigger assembly so I can go Megasquirt eventually. If I collect enough parts before the engine and car are ready, I may go straight to the MS.
  12. Before making plans on rings and bearings, buy or borrow some measurement tools and check your bores. You may find pistons are necessary, which will change your plans. If the bores are good, check the crank journals. Your machine shop guy is just feeding you BMW stereotypes. Parts for the M10 are plentiful and not that expensive. I bought a lot of stuff from https://www.fcpeuro.com/ Gasket sets, bearings, rockers, etc, etc. Rings were out of stock at the time, but then I found I had to buy new pistons, so it didn't matter. Between FCP, Blunt, and IE, you should be able to get every part you need.
  13. Coolant on top of intake valves?

    You probably should have done a compression test and/or leakdown test prior to pulling the head. It might be worth slapping the head back on with the old gasket and doing a leakdown test.
  14. The nuts and bolts of it...

    Hopefully this link works: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1zsmGYgjvtMfggDdh75q2BPH58ij2Woc_nkpp_o0kWKc/edit?usp=sharing I can't guarantee it's 100% accurate or applies to all years, but it's a good start.
  15. The nuts and bolts of it...

    I made a google spreadsheet of all the bolts and nuts I recently bought for my engine rebuild on my 76 from Belmetric, based off my research on realoem and comparing to the bolts I removed. I'll post it up later tonight when I get home.