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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  


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About xr4tic

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  1. 89.97 pistons would technically be 4th overbore, stock pistons are 88.97. Still safe though. Europeans specify overboring in 0.25mm increments, Americans use 0.010" increments. Very close, but can't be interchanged.
  2. Would this still be necessary with new springs? I've got a set of IE HD springs on order for my head rebuild.
  3. It's hard to tell from the pics, but are the dents on #2 and #3 pistons blackened, like maybe it's been hitting for a while? #4 looks the worst and I'm guessing bad enough to bend the valve causing the loss of compression. Did you verify the timing marks before pulling the head? I'm wondering if it skipped a tooth, which would have retarded the cam, holding the exhaust valve open later as the piston was coming up. Unfortunately, I think the only way to know what the clearances were when the engine was built, would be to use clay to check interference on assembly. And after seeing this, I'll definitely be doing that on my motor rebuild. On your rebuild, if there isn't enough clearance, you can get a custom made thicker head gasket (IE has this on their site) or have the pistons cut for clearance. Since you already have marked up pistons, I would do the latter just to clean them up.
  4. Given the interest and the huge list of people that want these, it would be nice to find a local source if possible. Anyone willing to try to get some sets made?
  5. Machine costs add up fast. If you're planning on just using this as a temp and rebuilding your original motor later, I would skip the machine shop, pick up some measurement tools (I picked up a micrometer set and dial bore gauge off Amazon for $150) and make sure everything is in spec. Then clean it up, new seals, and put it together. That was my plan for the temp motor I bought, only to find out it had been over-bored incorrectly, so now I'm just rebuilding the original motor. More time consuming, but cheaper in the long run.
  6. I think you're seriously under-estimating the cost of a 180hp NA M10 build. Have you considered a M42 swap with turbo? Factory EFI and you can probably find a canned tune for the turbo. Would make 200hp easy and be very streetable.
  7. Are you sure it's broken and not a 2-piece? My 76 is like the pics '76mintgrun'02 posted. It has a small stub that comes out of the block and then has a short hose with 2 hose clamps that hold the pieces together (the hose clamps may not be factory) If the top isn't held with a bracket, it would be very easy to pull the tube out of the hose.
  8. Can you clarify this? Are you basically saying to measure the ridge? I mic'd the areas above and below the ring wear area, where the crosshatch is still there, and both areas are still .0018" bigger than what it should be, based on the 89.510mm 2nd rebore spec. I'm thinking this thing was just bored wrong and it's not worth slapping together. Probably best to bite the bullet and just rebuild the original bottom end.
  9. Thanks guys. The hemi head sounds cool, but probably way more than I want to spend, even when rebuilding my original motor. Another question! I want to balance the rods and pistons myself, not because I think the motor needs it, but for the experience of doing it. 3 of my pistons are within 0.4 grams, the 4th piston is 4 grams heavier. Where's the best place to remove material? I see 4 pads around the skirt or should I just do it under the dome? The rods are within 3g total weight, but I'll have to make a jig to balance them properly.
  10. Domestic engines and old-school rebuilders usually talk in standard measurements, where the steps are .010 .020 .030 Are they saying you need .030 because that is what it will take to clean the bore up or because they're just assuming .030 is one of piston increments available to us? The only problem with this is the 4 week lead time. Unless you've got some units sitting on the shelf ready to go, I could certainly use some E21 pistons at the moment.
  11. The bulbs themselves are plug and play. Like previously mention, you may need to upgrade your flasher. Or you can do like I did, and modify it to make it even better.
  12. Thanks Toby, I'm hoping the bump in compression ratio will offset the funky quench area. Since this head was notched to clear the E12 piston, is it considered "ruined" if I want to re-use this head later on with my original block with the proper pistons?
  13. What's the going rate for a kidney nowadays? I will say that S2000 swap is looking better and better.
  14. The head on my original engine is cracked, the rings were shot (80% leakage and 90-100psi compression), and I wasn't planning on spending money for a proper engine rebuild this soon, the car has so many other issues that need to be fixed first. So I picked up another engine with the thought of de-glazing the cylinders and putting new rings/bearings/gaskets in it and use it as a temp motor until I'm ready to either rebuild my original block or do an engine swap (depending on how it performs) It's a 76 block with E21 head (same as what I had) but on disassembly, several red flags popped up. The pistons were piano tops and it was bored out +0.50mm The #2 rod was backwards The rod nuts were backwards There was a groove in the #1 rod bearings, found a corresponding nick/gouge on the crank These are easily solvable: From what I've read, the piano tops work with an E21 head if they are clearanced right, mine has clearance, but I suspect there was some light contact so I will open it up more. The rod can be flipped, same as the nuts I should be able to sand down the nick/gouge (remember, this is a temp motor, and the machine shop wanted $120+ to fix the one journal) I should also mention this isn't the first motor I've rebuilt, but it is the first that I'm re-using parts. In the past I bought new stuff, dropped it off to the machine shop for checking/machining, and then I assembled it all. Anyways, on to the questions: 1. I'm trying to calculate the wear on the bore, but I don't know what the starting value should be. Based on this post - It gives 3 different measurements for the pistons (A, B, and C) and 4 different measurements for the bore. It also states a "Max permissible total wear clearance piston to cylinder"...but it's a range (0.10mm to 0.15mm). how can you have a max, but it be a range? My pistons are stamped 89.47 (3.5224") and measured within 0.0001" of that. I measured the bores at 3.5260" - 3.5263" (89.56 - 89.57mm) I think I'm in that range, but I'd like to know how far off I am. My interpretation of the chart is that it depends if your piston is stamped with + - W or S, but mine just has an R on it (KS logo on them) 2. What's the max amount of crank wear before you have to grind it? Rod journals are spec'd at 1.8898 and I measured 1.8886 - 1.8888 = Max 0.0012 under Main journals are spec'd at 2.1654 and I measured 2.1639 - 2.1642 = Max 0.0015 under 3. What's the part number for the piston pin snap rings? On removal, one of mine flung off into the dark recesses of the garage. Realoem says 07119934460, but FCP says that part doesn't fit my 76 2002. I suspect FCP is wrong, but confirmation would be nice. 4. What's the best way to clean the combustion chambers? Lots of carbon in there. I bought a gallon of Chem-Dip for the pistons, it seems to be working good, should work on the valves too. 5. I'll probably take the head apart too, install new guide seals and install an IE 284 cam. Does it need oversize eccentrics? How do I know if the head has been shaved? 6. On my shopping list, I have the following items: Main Bearings Rod Bearings Gasket Set Piston Rings Piston Pin Snap Rings Rockers What am I missing? Is a timing chain necessary? Oil pump chain? I have a brand new water pump and thermostat on my old motor I will transfer over. The Head/Main/Rod bolts are all reusable, right? Any brands I should get and/or avoid? FCP has the following: Victor-Reinz makes and upper and lower gasket set, Goetze Rings, KS bearings Just a few questions lol. I'm sure I'll think of some more later.
  15. Bench bleeding is just looping the outlets back into the reservoir and pumping it. No reason you can't do that in the car. You'll need to bleed it again once you hook the brake lines up anyways. As for reverse bleeding, I don't see a reason it wouldn't work, a lot of clutch master/slave cylinders are bled that way. But it's easy enough for 2 people to bleed the brakes, just need 1 person to work the pedal while the other opens/closes the bleeders.