xr4tic

Kugelfischer
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About xr4tic

  • Birthday November 6

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Detroit, MI

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  1. Coolant on top of intake valves?

    How much coolant did you use? Any white exhaust smoke while it was running? It's possible the manifold is cracked and on engine shutdown the built up pressure is spraying coolant out into the valves, and leaking past the rings into the crankcase. It should be easy enough to pressure test the manifold though.
  2. Maybe? You'd need to take a lot of measurements. The E30 Megan's require TIG welding (not MIG) the new strut tube in place of the stock tube, so if the diameter isn't exactly right to fit into the spindle, it won't be trustworthy, and may require adapting E30 front spindles onto your car (good luck with that) If you can get them super super cheap, you could check them out, and if they don't work either sell them or buy an E30. Otherwise, probably a pass.
  3. Oil Pump Question

    The Febi chain I bought was the right P/N but had the wrong chain in the box. The only way you'll know if you got the right one is to check it with the pump gear and see if it looks right or not.
  4. Oil Pump Question

    If you're replacing the oil pump chain as well, buy a factory BMW one. A lot of the aftermarket chains are wrong (thicker) as pointed out in this thread: When I put a new chain on mine, I had to remove the shim between the oil pump and block because it was so much tighter.
  5. The nipple coming out of the block just above the starter is for a water choke, if you're manual or electric, you can block it off - PN 11111254189 The stock manifold has the other end for the hose, but your Cannon intake may not have one.
  6. Giveaway - 2 Pint Glasses, 2 Mugs

    Strange, it's working now though. Thanks
  7. Giveaway - 2 Pint Glasses, 2 Mugs

    Says "You cannot participate!" I had no issues entering the others.
  8. Starter recommendations

    I installed an M3 starter - SR440X Smaller, lighter, and more powerful than stock. Also consider an alternator upgrade while you have everything apart, I installed a 79 320i 65amp alternator, bolts right up and gets rid of the voltage regulator on the fender.
  9. Michigan friends

    Nice, I may hit you up in the spring for some body work. I'm going to try and tackle the engine bay, floor pans, and trunk myself, but the exterior is probably best left to someone who actually knows how to weld.
  10. Engine Rebuild Progress

    The alternator bracket was cleaned and sandblasted (quickly). I was going to paint it black, but then I saw someone else post a picture with the brackets gold zinc plated and it looked fantastic, so I'm going to see if I can get that done. It's a brand new IE header, it's on their special page, significantly cheaper than the uncoated mild steel shorty header - http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/02shortstainless.html I just have it bolted on with two nuts to test for fitment. It looks like I have to clearance the bottom of the flange because there is a slight step where the head meets the block (block sticks out) and the flange barely hits it. Should be quick work with my bench grinder to make it fit.
  11. grinding the boss

    I've been using Permatex High-Tack on all my paper gaskets with no ill effects. Keeps them in place and doesn't dry up like silicone.
  12. Engine Rebuild Progress

    My engine is slowly coming together, here's how it sits right now: And here's how the engine bay sits (taken before the snow fell this winter): Anyways, onto the important stuff. Engine Highlights: 9.5:1 CR forged pistons 144mm H-Beam Rods 284 Cam HD Valve Springs + Retainers Stock size stainless valves (originals were worn/bent) Full head rebuild with new stock components Stainless Shorty Header + Downpipe (IE) Windage Tray Lightweight flywheel Single link timing chain setup (stock was dual) 123Tune bluetooth distributor 02again Crank Pulley Weber 38/38 (carryover from old engine) The full list is extensive and I'm at ~$5000 so far including machining and spare engine cost. I'll throw the parts list into a google sheet to share in a future post. Before I get into the pics, I'll make a few comments on some of my decisions Forged pistons - pretty much your only option if you want higher compression with an E21 head, lighter than stock Longer rods - stock rods are pretty strong, but the weakness seems to be the rod bolts. These rods come with ARP bolts and give you the benefit of a better rod/stroke ratio. Do some googling to read up on the benefits, there are lots. Only doable with custom pistons, also lighter 284 cam - bought it from a FAQ member before I found out how involved a cam swap is on our cars. In hindsight, a 292 would probably be a better choice, but I'll give this one a shot Stainless shorty header + downpipe - I *really* wanted to get the IE tri-Y header but couldn't justify the cost. IE had these on sale, a great bang-for-the-buck compared to mild steel headers Windage tray - Free HP? I don't see a downside and it's cheap. Lightweight flywheel - I've put LW flywheels on several cars, a must-have IMHO Single-link timing chain - my stock dual link gears were worn, a single link setup is cheaper, should have less drag, and several racers convert to this setup. I've never heard of anyone going the other way. 123Tune dist - bought through the group buy before I started my rebuild, with Megasquirt potentially in my future, this may not last long 02again crank pulley - lighter than stock and one step closer to being ready for Megasquirt Weight comparisons, per cylinder stock vs. forged pistons: 547g - 439g stock vs. new piston pins: 137g - 102g stock vs new rods: 701g - 584g total stock vs. new: 1375g - 1125g (18% lighter) stock crank pulley vs 02again: 1750g - 1150g (approx, I wrote the numbers down somewhere and can't find them) (35% lighter) stock flywheel vs RHD - 17lbs vs 7 lbs (59% lighter) How much HP will it make? No idea, should be way better than my old engine with 80% cylinder leakage though Flywheel: Piston: Rod: Engine block painted + freeze plugs installed Gapping rings: Piston assembly area, ring filer clamped to bench, various measurements/notes written on paper Pistons in, front cover on Good time to realize you have a snapped off bolt still in the block, extraction set from the local parts store actually worked, just need to use real drill bits. Test fitting the head and realized I didn't get the tensioner in place, had to buy a new front cover gasket Test fitting windage tray What's more fun than lining up a cork oil pan gasket? Lining up TWO cork oil pan gaskets! Short block ready for the head assembly I painted the front upper and lower covers, oil filter housing, and dist. housing. The head was cleaned up by the machine shop and the water pump wasn't that old, so I just cleaned it up a bit. More to come (eventually)
  13. Define "Higher HP motor" I'm rebuilding my motor now, I did some searching but had a tough time finding reliable HP numbers for "streetable" builds. Expect 130-150HP, depending on budget. The costs go way up if you're looking for more and streetability is iffy. If you want more than that and still be streetable, consider a turbo and EFI. You could probably slap a turbo and EFI on your current engine and be close to 200HP and be way ahead in the budget compared to a normal rebuild My build is 9.5:1 CR, longer rods, lightweight flywheel, headers, Weber 38, and 123tune ignition. No idea what it will produce, but should be significantly more than the original engine that had 80% cylinder leakage.
  14. Boost delete

    When my booster failed, I had looked into the boosterless option. Massive also offers something for the E30, which may fit our cars as well: http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-systems.php?p=brake-booster-delete Ultimately, I decided it was best/safest to just replace mine with a working used unit.
  15. I put an ebay Honda-style aluminum radiator in mine. Even with an electric fan attached to the front of it, I'm able to get it in and out, although it's TIGHT. It definitely needs to be just the right angle to make it slide in.