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About xr4tic

  • Birthday November 6

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  1. Any idea how many gallons you needed? Did you use the Sound Control or the Heat Insulation or both? The Heat Insulation is the one with ceramic in it.
  2. It says Made FOR America, not Made IN America. Made in Taiwan/China, which is why they're cheap.
  3. What are your plans for HP/Torque and how will you drive it? Drag racing with hard launches? Sure, go for it. Or better yet slap in a Ford 9" (somewhat kidding) For street use it seems to be serious overkill.
  4. Wiring is all hooked up, but I need to rethink my plan of trying to tuck this under the dash. Think it's going to end up in the center console area. Fuel system all done and wired up. Car fires right up. More details here:
  5. Nice, what's your setup? Were the dyno runs on different days? That would certainly explain it, really should be back-to-back runs.
  6. Is it as simple as flipping the mounts or does other work have to be done? Is it actually worth doing?
  7. It's not pictured, but I have two pieces of hose that run from the hard lines to the bulkhead fittings. I contemplated running it like the factory, where the hard line ends by the drivers side wheel well and then the rubber tube runs across, over the diff, and into the trunk on the pass side, but decided to just run that portion inside. This tubing is thicker and I have two of them, and didn't want to have to deal with the possibility of it getting close to any moving parts. I also thought about running the hard line across to the pass side, but it wasn't going to happen without dropping the subframe.
  8. I procrastinated a bit (shocker), 2 months later, finally got this done. 25' was plenty of line if you run it to where the stock line ends. I think I had ~7' left over after running both supply and return. I bought 15' of Aeroquip socketless hose, used pretty much all of it. I still need to add some more tubing clamps, but the hard part is done. Front section with one of the Swagelok fittings installed Where the front of the line starts Running to the regulator Along the original route: Over the subframe, you can see the bulkhead fittings through the trunk floor (upper right) In hindsight, the supply fitting (leftmost) is too close to the support rail. My 90 degree AN fitting just hit it. Another pic going over the subframe, I made them different lengths on purpose, but should have had the longer one on the outside. Trunk (large nylon washers on the bulkhead fittings) Aeroquip push-lock hose assembly, use lots of oil.
  9. is the rotor fully seated on the hub? I thought the hubs had to be clearanced for the rotors, maybe it's hanging up or offset a bit? Should be easy to diagnose by taking the wheel off, bolting the rotor tight to the hub, and rotating it.
  10. Last I checked, lead acid batteries can explode too. We should just go back to hand cranks on cars. Or maybe some people like putting new technology on old cars?
  11. Thanks, it's a complete re-wire of the engine bay, with a new fuse box located inside. It's almost done, just need to make some time to finish it up.
  12. This 480: https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/restart-oem/atx12-hd-rs/ I got one in mine, and since it's so light and small, I put it in the stock location:
  13. Are they going to do the glove compartment door as well? I put a cover on my dash, but the glove compartment door is way off color, and I suspect it would look awful next to new vinyl.
  14. To stir it up some more, I'm regretting not going that route over rebuilding my M10 Maybe on the next 2002......
  15. I also suspect it's because the dies don't close together parallel, they close as an angle, which pushes the metal out. I also also suspect that the AWG dies on these are the same exact ones as the metric dies, just with AWG numbers painted on them.

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