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xr4tic

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by xr4tic

  1. xr4tic
    What I think is happening, is you push the "Submit Reply" button and it goes through, but it doesn't look like it does, so you hit the button again, and it gives you the 60 second warning. You hit it after 60 seconds, it doesn't look like it goes through, and the cycle repeats. The site was pretty much down for me all day so I didn't get a chance to see if the double post issue is still happening.
  2. xr4tic
    Worked on the new fuel tank install, I still need to cut out a lot of the rusty remains of the old trunk, reinforce it, and then weld in tubes to the tank frame. Frame almost done Just laying in place: Test fit, gas fill tube to the left. Aftermarket gas fill door fits almost perfectly:
  3. xr4tic
    Getting "Something went wrong, please try again" page occasionally. Also, when replying, I get "New posts within a short time frame are limited. Please wait 60 seconds before submitting" Also also, seeing this under everyone's name: [[Template clubsenhancements/front/clubs/postClubIcons is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
  4. xr4tic
    Getting "Something went wrong, please try again" page occasionally. Also, when posting, I get "New posts within a short time frame are limited. Please wait 60 seconds before submitting" Also also, seeing this under everyone's name: [[Template clubsenhancements/front/clubs/postClubIcons is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
  5. xr4tic
    Getting "Something went wrong, please try again" page occasionally. Also, when posting, I get a "Please wait 60 seconds before posting" timer Also also, seeing this under everyone's name: [[Template clubsenhancements/front/clubs/postClubIcons is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
  6. xr4tic
    Double post, appears the system is still glitched
  7. xr4tic
    There are a few threads about larger valves not being worth it because of valve shrouding, although I'm sure you could fix that with even more head work ($$$). I had to buy new valves for my head and went with stock size (E21 head), the cost increase wasn't worth it for me.
  8. xr4tic
    Extremely tempting, sounds like a good deal for someone.
  9. xr4tic
    I'd be curious how well it fits a W&N replacement floor pan. The stock frame rail wasn't an exact match to that either, wonder if it's worse or better?
  10. xr4tic
    Looking at the pic again, it does kind of look like that, the guibo looks straight between top flange bolt and driveshaft bolt. One of the issues I'm fighting with my 5 speed swap is the output shaft angle, the trans needs to go up, but there's just no room. I have brand new IE HD motor mounts, and I think they may have raised the engine a bit. I'm hoping they'll eventually settle, they have 0 miles on them right now.
  11. xr4tic
    Sort of, it depends on the size of the garage and the garage door height/installation. If it's a standard 7 foot door, you may not have that full 10' unless you put in the appropriate tracks and garage opener. 10' will fit a standard lift but may not let you put a taller car all the way up. I'm building a new house/new garage and am going through this, it will have a 12' ceiling, jackshaft opener, 8' door, and high-lift track so I can actually open/close the door with a lift with no interference. I needed special trusses to get that extra headroom with our city build codes (15' max garage height) BUT, if you meet all those requirements, and have the room side to side, get a real lift, you won't regret it.
  12. xr4tic
    First question: is this a totally stock setup or is this a 5 speed conversion? (apologies if I missed a post with that info) 2nd question: Is the nose of the driveshaft hitting the output shaft of the trans? IE, is the guibo not thick enough? I realize you got it from a reputable vendor, but I doubt they check every single part in every box of their warehouse, so it is possible you got the wrong part. If you push on the rear diff and it pushes the engine/trans forward, it makes me wonder if this is the case.
  13. xr4tic
    I like it, a lot of the fuddy-duddies here probably won't StAnCe4LiFe Yo
  14. xr4tic
    I like my quick jack. The maxjax is nicer, but also takes up more room on the sides and for storage, and I have limited work space as it is.
  15. xr4tic
    It's not the dizzy that drives the tach, it's the flyback voltage generated when the coil triggers. Doesn't matter how you trigger the coil, as long as it's one trigger per firing (MSD does multiple sparks, requiring an adapter) Tune123 doesn't have points, tach works just fine.
  16. xr4tic
    Doesn't it just use a normal single coil? Connect the tach to the negative terminal of the ignition coil like it should be.
  17. xr4tic
    I had a kerosene torpedo tube heater, didn't care for the smell/fumes. I now have a propane heater, both a torpedo style and a convection tower style. The tower works great for heating up the garage and doesn't require electricity. The torpedo is more for outdoor work if I want to direct heat towards me/where I'm working, downside is it requires a cord. My new garage (house build in progress) will have a mini-split setup, for cooling and heating.
  18. xr4tic
    Nice, got a list of things you've done to reduce weight?
  19. xr4tic
    Depends on the piston material. Forged pistons usually run a bigger clearance than cast and the alloy used on the forged pistons can have a big effect as well.
  20. xr4tic
    You need to re-use that part, hopefully you installed it. There's a spec distance it needs to be from the mount, it's a travel limiter
  21. xr4tic
    A quick google search says the Sp marking is for minimum skirt clearance, so I'm guessing it requires a 90.015 bore. But definitely check with Mahle to make sure.
  22. xr4tic
    There should be a paper gasket on both sides of the spacer.
  23. xr4tic
    Finally got around to getting mine mounted. Just temporary, I'm going to paint the vinyl on the upper strip and armrest, as well as the bright green clips. I used 3M spray adhesive to glue the vinyl to the metal top strip and then cut it flush so it looks a little nicer. Fit is pretty good, I had to re-adjust the chrome piece on the upper strip so I could slide the door card over to the right to get the holes to line up better. Also had to grind the holes for the armrest slightly, contacted the seller who said that I probably got a prototype piece and offered to ship me new ones, so it's good he stands behind his product. I decided to just spend the 5 minutes with a grinder to get it to fit. Overall, I'm happy with it.
  24. xr4tic
    Is the SEM Plastic Adhesion Promoter OK for Vinyl?
  25. xr4tic
    The gasket oval has a bigger end and smaller end for use with the 32/36, looks to me like they installed it backwards. As you found out, as long as the throttle blades aren't hitting, it will run just fine. You may leave some HP behind, but if you don't want to pull the intake manifold, then there's not much you can do. I have a Weber 38 and decided to opened mine up:
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