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vacca rabite

Solex
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About vacca rabite

  • Birthday June 13

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  1. What I should have done is set the posts up, drive a car between them, mock the arms to make sure the reach okay and mark my garage there for the posts. 2002 has long doors so I suspect issues either way. With my 914 (and the 2002 once I can get it up here) pushing into final position isn't an issue. Even the WRX can get pushed the last few inches no problem. The 4Runner and I have to climb out the back. lol. Amusingly my daughters 04 Highlander I can actually open the door wide enough to shimmy out (but its tight). My plan is to use 2 of the rear anchors as the new front points and the drill and set 3 new anchors for the back That will give me about 5 inches more per side - and thats all the difference in the world. AND, if I need to move it in a little for something small (like the trailer) I can.
  2. I've had my lift installed for a few months now (4? wow!) and here are my thoughts now that I have used it on several different cars. 1) the instructions have you space the posts too close together. I have my posts spaced for a mid-size sedan as per the instructions. While I have used it in this position to lift everything from my m416 trailer to my 4runner, the posts are too close. Eventually I need to get more anchors and drill new holes to space the lift out a bit more. So far only the m416 trailer is "right" at the current spacing. Everything else (including my 914) needs to be pushed into final position or you can't get out of the car due to the posts blocking the doors. 2) This lift, for me, would be perfect with another 6 inches of lift. Which you can get with the lift spacers that come with the lift. But when you use those you can't get the lifting arms under lower cars (like my 914). I removed the garage door motor in my shop and that extra lift would make working with a rolling stool a no-ducking deal. Right now I need to work slightly stooped on my stool. I could find a rolling stool that gets me a little lower, and that is likely what I will do. 3) They make a version of this same lift with more holes for the safety pins. DO NOT GET IT. you will not use those other lift heights. And, frankly if you do need another pin location, drill it yourself. The other lift is several hundred dollars more, and not worth it IMHO. And speaking of pins, on mine I had to slightly grind the upper pin holes to get the safety pin in on one side. This was a 15 minute job with a die grinder, no big deal. Just a minor frustration. For me, the 2 safety pins are at shoulder height and belly button height. 4) I want to get longer hydraulic lines for the motor and mount it to one of the posts. I'm not crazy about the remote motor, but I totally get why they did it that way as it makes the whole thing more portable. The valving in the pump could also be bigger. The lift goes up slow and goes down even slower. Glacially slow on the way down. And speaking of the motor, it needs to be on its own circuit. If there is any other load on the line it will sometimes trip the breaker on startup. I already can't imagine continuing to work on cars without a lift. Seriously its that much better.Even little stuff like tire changes and oil changes get done on the lift now, and I find myself annoyed if a restoration project is on the lift when I need to do an oil change or other maintenance on any of the other cars in my fleet. I've used quick jacks, mid rise and low rise scissor jacks, etc. This is better. Its not as good as a full size 2 post asymmetric lift, but my shop can't support one of those (and they are EXPENSIVE). Zach
  3. 4 Post lifts are designed to be up in the air all of the time. 2 post lifts are designed to be in the air fore the duration of the work you are doing. For the most part I think it does not matter. But there are times when a 2 post lift will be come unstable much faster then a 4 post lift. Like if you tap the lift post with your car while parking under it. Or an earthquake. 4 posts bolted to the floor are stronger then 2 posts. That said, I've known people that have parked and worked under 2 post lifts for years. Zach
  4. I love my MaxJax, though at the moment it’s not holding old German iron. It’s being a workstation for a camp trailer I’m making.
  5. I've been running a PC925 Odessey in my 914 for a few years. It has tons of cranking power, but does not seem to have the AH of reserve to keep up with the car if I'm running with the lights and wipers on. I'm actually strongly considering moving away from the Lithium batteries and going back to lead acid for their reserve power. And I do occasionally worry about coming home to a smouldring heap of a garage due to the battery going up one day. But at this point with all the lithium batteries in devices and toys, I just don't know if I should worry about it and just up my insurance. Zach
  6. I was considering putting caps on my car. I have a few sets of wheels for the 2002 but the caps look good on the car. maybe I'm weird. Zach
  7. Did you run your high pressure line through the cabin like the stock line or run it under the car. I’m thinking of using nickel-cooper tubing and routing it under the floor pan instead of through the cabin. zach
  8. I see no reason why that would not work, but I think an IAC would probably work better and be somewhat easier to implement. Reason being is that the butterflies in the TB are large flaps, and you only want them cracked at startup, where as that IAC will have a small valve and you have many more degrees of freedom moving it to get a smooth idle and strong cold starting. But so long as your stepper motor can accurately move at very small increments, should work fine. You would have to engineer a way that operating the throttle while the "choke" was working would not strip it out or push it out of calibration, but I have to think that is a also a solvable problem (though the industry solution to this problem was the IAC valve. 🙂 ) Zach
  9. Trying to wrap my head around this. What would be the benefit? Just want to try something new (I totally get that!)? Loosing idle control could end up being a serious issue for you. I know I tried and tried to get my 914 to run without idle control, and either had a car that would not start when cold, or would have a monstrous idle when warm. Gave in and got the IAC in. If you have any access to a mill or did some creative welding I bet you could make a 12mm (or thinner) base plate with two bungs to allow air in to each throttle body from your existing 4 wire IAC. From there it would be a simple Y to join a pair of hoses to the port on IAC. You would need a stand alone IAC valve, if you are currently using the plunger type. VW has a 2 wire stand alone unit I have used, but its on the large side. I'm currently using a Hyundai 3 wire unit and a 3D printed plate that allows some hoses to be run. Pretty simple. Plus the Hyundai valve is only $11 off Amazon. Of course you could just get a slightly larger throttle body that would allow you to tap or weld some bungs in. Either way, the IAC is a solvable issue. Zach
  10. That’s really cool. I live how you can look at logs and see what your engine wants. Have you had the car on a dyno? Would be interesting to see before and after pulls to see what the new larger injectors get you (after tuning) Zach
  11. So I bought a MaxJax from Best Buy Automotive Equipment on Black Friday for just under $1800 shipped with liftgate to my home. My garage did not have the ceiling to support a larger lift. I have not gotten it yet, and THOUGHT I had posted here about it in case someone else wanted in on the deal. I guess my post was lost into the ether... :-/ I'm super excited about it! Though my 914 gets first crack on the lift as I need to do some sprucing up before I take it to Amelia Island in March, the 2002 restoration is going to be dragged home at some point this winter or spring and hopefully I'll be able to get the doors off, stip the car down and really make some progress on my restoration efforts. Zach
  12. Keep in mind the brine MD (and most of the MidA states) now use is worse then salt, and it stays on the roadway for weeks after. As soon as they spray for the first storm, keep your 2002 off the roads until the spring rains wash that crap away. The brine will weep and wick into every seam in the car and start rusting happily away - out of sight until the rust is so bad that the rot is a hole and compromising the panel. A good friend of mine had a really nice 914 that he loved driving daily around Baltimore where he worked and York PA where he lived. The car lasted 2 years before a more or less rust free car had bubbles forming around every leading edge and seam. Seriously heart breaking. Zach
  13. I’m friends with the son of the prior owner of my home. He said the slab on the original side of my garage is 8-10 inches thick, and the restoration side is 4-5 inches thick. So that won’t be an issue. I measured my ceiling. I only have 112 inches to the rafters and 10ft if I go between the rafters. I should probably call it 110 inches as I eventually want to drywall the ceiling to keep a little more heat in the restoration bay. the little Max Jax still seems like a great option. I like that it can be unbolted and moved out of the way. I’d have to change my garage door and opener to add a larger “Real” lift. Certainly possible, but I don’t know if going up another foot is worth the added costs. The old side of the garage has an 8+ inch slab. Same ceiling height though. I may have familial issues though if I tried to put a lift on that side. Eventually I want to put a 4 post there so I could park the 2002 and 914 in the same spot. Zach
  14. I may need to cut and pour as well. I’m not sure how thick the pad is in my garage. zach
  15. Does anyone here have experience with the 6000lbs MaxJax "portable" lift? I'm thinking hard about bringing my 2002 home this winter to try and push through the rust repair. And I'm thinking I want a lift. 10Ft ceilings in my garage so I can't put in a standard. I don't really want a scissor lift. The last car I restored like this I stripped down to a shell and built a rotisserie. I don't want to do that with the 2002. I think I can get everything I need to get done done with a lift (and then I still have a lift for doing oil changes, etc with my small fleet of cars. Likewise, for maintenance - has anyone had issues with using the MaxJax on larger vehicles like a 5th Gen 4Runner? Thanks! Zach
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