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vacca rabite

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About vacca rabite

  • Birthday June 13

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  1. I’m friends with the son of the prior owner of my home. He said the slab on the original side of my garage is 8-10 inches thick, and the restoration side is 4-5 inches thick. So that won’t be an issue. I measured my ceiling. I only have 112 inches to the rafters and 10ft if I go between the rafters. I should probably call it 110 inches as I eventually want to drywall the ceiling to keep a little more heat in the restoration bay. the little Max Jax still seems like a great option. I like that it can be unbolted and moved out of the way. I’d have to change my garage door and opener to add a larger “Real” lift. Certainly possible, but I don’t know if going up another foot is worth the added costs. The old side of the garage has an 8+ inch slab. Same ceiling height though. I may have familial issues though if I tried to put a lift on that side. Eventually I want to put a 4 post there so I could park the 2002 and 914 in the same spot. Zach
  2. I may need to cut and pour as well. I’m not sure how thick the pad is in my garage. zach
  3. Does anyone here have experience with the 6000lbs MaxJax "portable" lift? I'm thinking hard about bringing my 2002 home this winter to try and push through the rust repair. And I'm thinking I want a lift. 10Ft ceilings in my garage so I can't put in a standard. I don't really want a scissor lift. The last car I restored like this I stripped down to a shell and built a rotisserie. I don't want to do that with the 2002. I think I can get everything I need to get done done with a lift (and then I still have a lift for doing oil changes, etc with my small fleet of cars. Likewise, for maintenance - has anyone had issues with using the MaxJax on larger vehicles like a 5th Gen 4Runner? Thanks! Zach
  4. Thanks! I think I should be able to modify the stock rails to use these seats. I grew up bouncing between Dallas and Lake Texoma. I do not miss that heat and humidity! To this day I'll visit in the winter, spring and fall - but NEVER in the summer. Zach
  5. Porsche prices have jumped. But so have 2002 prices. I suspect that 2002 prices will continue to rise for the next several years. I really don't get the "Porsche guys are A-holes" attitude that I've seen in this thread. In my experience the guys that own 2002s also tend to own 914s, 912s, 944s, etc. Zach (who also owns a 914-4)
  6. This past weekend I got epoxy down on the trunk. I think I can cross this off the list until its time for final paint. Thee are a few small areas that yet need to be addressed that will be addressed when the car is in PA and I can take the rear glass out, but structurally the trunk is now sound. This makes me very happy. And today, something showed up in the mail for me! Really excited about these. There is also a rear seat cover that I have not unpacked yet. I ordered them from a small shop in Thailand that restores them, and was nervous about it being a scam. But after 8 weeks in a container they showed up at my door today! The tracking site the guy sent me had not even updated yet (as of Sunday) so I did not even know they had landed and gone through customs and been delivered to the US Post for delivery. Zach
  7. I just did mine over the spring. I waited a long time for the W/N parts to come back in stock, and then found a different trunk kit from Wolf Steel/Alfa Parts. It worked great. If anything, their kit was easier to manage due to it not being one big panel. It was easier to use the parts I needed, and the shapes were well fitted to my trunk. Zach
  8. This past weekend was another work weekend on the BMW down in Virginia. As usual, it poured. There was thunder and lightning and flood warnings. Almost every time I go to work on the car during the spring summer and fall, it has been pouring, and I'm driving 200 miles from York PA to Charles City VA. Regardless, considerable work got completed. Previously I had cut out and welded in a new spare tire well. This past weekend I was working on the other side, taking care of the gas tank surround. I found lots of thick bondo where someone had gooped it in hoping to hide the rust issues this car has. Lots of drilled out spot welds later, the rusty panel was cut free and I could start cleaning up the remaining flanges. My plan was to use the original spot weld locations for rosette welds. Test fitting the new panel from Wolf could now start. This panel needed less fitting then others I have done, but it still took me several hours to get it fitting tight like it should be. This pic is from early in the process, and you can see just how much further the panel needs to come up. The next few pics show fitment getting much closer! I was very happy with how exact I was able to get my butts to line up where I retained the original sheet metal and cut away from the new panel. Where the shipping tie down was cut away, I also welded a patch there after the new panel was in, but I think I forgot to get pics of that, so there is still a rectangle on the fender that is open in these pics. Now I've sprayed down some 3M weld through primer and gotten the new panel all clamped in. This was as far as I got the first day, but I was very content with it! It takes me 7 hours what my friend does in 3-4, but its fitting well and ready to get burned in. Next day I broke out the MIG and went to town. I welded in the panel using mostly rosettes as planned, but also a few seam welds where it made sense. I learned again (and again) that retired running shoes, while comfortable, don't stop weld splatter. Usually I remember to bring boots, but I forgot them this weekend. Such is life. Then I had to go and do more panel fitment to get the new panel to line up with all the old spot welds behind the rear bumper. This took more effort then I anticipated, but my favorite sheet metal tools (a large ball peen hammer and a rail-road spike) worked wonders here. Yes, at my friends shop I have access to all his fancy metal working hammers and dollies and I use a ball peen and a RR spike. Don't judge me. Hit them with the 3M Weld through, burned in some rosettes and ground them down. I also went back over the spare tire well and added some weld to close all the gaps I found when I looked closely at it. I was rushing last time and the work showed. Now it looks MUCH nicer. Finally, I laid in the gas tank for test fitting and it fit perfect, just as it should. At this point I ran out of time. The welding and cleanup was done, but wanted to do metal prep and spray some epoxy over all the new clean sheet metal. That did not happen. Which only means I'll have some surface rust to clean off the next time I get down there, and I'll spray it then. At this point all the structural rust in the trunk has been resolved. I only have 2 more structural areas to fix, as well as some cosmetic issues, and then all the rust repair will be complete. I'm hoping to do the drivers side rocker the next time I'm down there (july?) which will be the big task. The pass side rocker is the other structural fix, but it will be a much easier cut and weld job. Thanks for reading, and until next time... Zach
  9. I have not converted my 2002 to EFI (yet), but I have done it with my 914. My suggestion would be to use as many of the stock parts as you can. The M10 was used for decades, and you can find an EFI intake plenum and the other parts you need fairly easily.for piping and hard parts, don't reinvent the wheel where you don't have to. If you use Megasquirt (which was the route I went) you will want to use GM sensors both for cheapness and also for compatibility. Almost any EFI route you take will be able to run spark. DON'T do spark and fuel at the same time. Get fuel running first, and then do spark. Keep your variables manageable. I learned this the hard way... GET YOUR CAR DYNO TUNED. All the different EFI systems will claim you can tune it with a laptop while you drive. Which is technically possible. But its is not easy, and you will have better results on a dyno. EFI on its own won't make you car run any faster. It will allow you to dial in the best tune possible for almost any given running situation. Which means much easier cold starts, much better response up and down the rev range, and a lot more tolerance as air pressure shifts (ie - driving up and down mountains). Zach
  10. I spent the weekend finally getting some work done on my car. Previously I had ordered a trunk kit to replace the rusty metal in the tire well and around the gas tank. This weekend I got the well replaced. The new well was long and designed to be fit to size. I did some initial fitting and cut the lip off where it would be in the way. Next up was cutting out the old well. Fun times in cramped working conditions. Well is out and fitting the new well continues. There was a radius on the old well where it blended with the trunk floor, I removed it with a hammer and dolly to make a better connection when the new well went in. Everything is flat and a LIGHT coating of zinc primer has been sprayed on. You can see holes in the trunk floor where I have been using cleco clips to hold the new well in for fitting. fitted and clamped in place. Ready to be welded. This was as far as I got the first day. Cutting and fitting took about 7 hours of work. Next morning... Zap zap zap zap all the way around. I found a few placed where the zinc had gone on a little thick and was getting contaminated welds from it. So I took it down a bit and my welds got good again. Also welding up the holes from the cleco clips while I go. Well is in and I had plenty of time left to fit the well floor. it was close, but there were lots of gaps I'd need to close with hammer and dolly while welding it in. No room for clecos here, so I just layed in a couple tacks and went for it. Working around the well floor.The copper strip is used as a heat sink that weld won't stick to. The RR Spike is and dolly are both used to move the metal to cloe the gaps. You can see the gaps closing up where while I work around the well. This was a good bit of work. And its in, with literal minutes to spare before I had to stop work, clean up, and make the 3 hour drive back home. I scrubbed it with some ospho to remove the surface rust that had formed, and then sprayed on some more ospho to keep new rust from forming until the next time I could get to it. Next step will be the gas tank surround. Once that's done I can put the gas tank back in, run fuel lines, and no longer have to push the car around to work on it! Zach
  11. Curious to know how this story turned out? Is everything running smooth? Zach
  12. I've got my daily driver WRX, 2002, 914, another 914, and a Forrester I use during hunting season. Plus the GF's Highlander and Civic. The 2002 is still being restored. One of the 914s will never see the road again in my ownership of it (caged racer with severe rust issues). The Civic will go to her daughter when she gets her license. I'm at a point where probably something has to get sold, but I have no interest in selling anything. Its good to have options, but its too much. And I still look at things and say "ohhhh. I could buy that car." Zach
  13. My experience is apples and oranges for your application (MSII, different injectors, etc etc) but 60+PSI seems excessive for fuel pressure. I would have suspected a fuel pressure in the range of 30-40 PSI for a relatively tame 4 banger. I wonder if the pressure is part of the reason you have fuel dripping? You had mentioned that it was over the recommended max pressure. Zach
  14. I have Microsquirt set up on my 914. In your write-up you mentioned needing an additional module for running idle control. This is not correct (well at elast not for Microsquirt II, which is all my experience is with) You can run a two or three wire IAC through Microsquirt without an additional module. I did it with a 3 wire unit out of a Hyundia. The wiring is pretty simple. Power goes to your fuse block (I'm using the same 6 port panel you are, a solid choice!), one of the opener wires goes to ground through a 40 ohm resistor, and the other goes to the Microsqurt ECU (off hand I cant remember the position on the AMPSeal plug). It works like a charm and is very easy to fine tune through TunerStudio. While the Microsquirt is great for the "open" engine bay in a 914, I tend to think a MS2 box is better suited for a more traditional car like the 2002, since you can locate the ECU in the cabin or in a dry space in the engine bay. That said, I have a second Microsquirt ECU and will eventually put it in my 2002. Its AMAZING how much nicer the 914 is to drive then it was when I had carbs on it. Just turn the key and drive. Zach
  15. Its only been a solid year since i have updated this blog. Bad Zach, no cookie for you! Over the past year I have: Bought a rusty parts car to harvest parts for my slightly less rusty car. Bought all the stuff required to redo the trunk metal floors. Cut out and welded up a LOT of rust all over the car. Cut out all the rotten trunk metal, and making my plan for welding in the good stuff. Redid my engine mounts, and a bunch of other smaller jobs around the engine bay. Got new tires put on an mounted. At this point there are basically three issue spots that remain. Both rockers still need love. The drivers side rocker is cleaned out, and still needs to be welded up. The pass side rocker is in much better shape, but still needs rot cut out. The trunk. I've cut out 90% of the rust out of the trunk. The trunk floor kit I have is modular, its not the big single stamped piece. Which is nice as its going to let me do this in stages. I want to finish up the trunk before I finish the rockers. My thinking here is that when the trunk is done, I can put back in the gas tank that I sealed 2 years ago, run fuel lines and START THE CAR. This will be a big moral victory, as it means no more pushing the car around when I want to work on it. I can just drive that bitch! I also toyed with the idea of buying a rolling shell in good shape and moving all the parts I have over. Saving me the joy of a lot more welding. This idea nearly came to fruition a week ago, when I came across an estate auction for a guy nearish to me that built 2002s. "Well hey there" I thought to myself. Up for auction were two rolling shells, both of which had the rust work done, one of which was painted and the other wasn't. I decided I would make a go for the unpainted body. As it was still more or less bare metal, and had no title I was hoping that I could pick it up for a few grand. I was wrong. The painted body sold for $14K. Absolutely stupid money for a car that had brand new paint already failing in places. The untitled, unpainted body sold for $4K. I was in the auction until $3K but was not going to go any higher then that. The guy that wont the auction was the guy that was bidding (but ultimately lost the auction for) the painted body. He had cash and was determined to come home with a car. IMO, this is crazy money. This is "buy a nice running and driving car" money for a car that had mediocre paint at best. The rolling shell was also somewhat crazy IMO. I guess you can chalk it up to "east coast premium," but again it was approaching driver car money for a shell that still needed several grand worth of work before it was actually a car again. The whole thing left me feeling pretty good about my little green 2002 that I paid 2002 for in June of 2016. I've been keeping track of my costs, and I'm going to be way under 4K once my rust remediation is complete - and my car has a clean title. Cheers all! Zach

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