vacca rabite

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About vacca rabite

  • Birthday June 13

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Dallastown PA
  • Interests Cars, Guns, Women

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  1. vacca rabite

    A quickie update

    Its only been a solid year since i have updated this blog. Bad Zach, no cookie for you! Over the past year I have: Bought a rusty parts car to harvest parts for my slightly less rusty car. Bought all the stuff required to redo the trunk metal floors. Cut out and welded up a LOT of rust all over the car. Cut out all the rotten trunk metal, and making my plan for welding in the good stuff. Redid my engine mounts, and a bunch of other smaller jobs around the engine bay. Got new tires put on an mounted. At this point there are basically three issue spots that remain. Both rockers still need love. The drivers side rocker is cleaned out, and still needs to be welded up. The pass side rocker is in much better shape, but still needs rot cut out. The trunk. I've cut out 90% of the rust out of the trunk. The trunk floor kit I have is modular, its not the big single stamped piece. Which is nice as its going to let me do this in stages. I want to finish up the trunk before I finish the rockers. My thinking here is that when the trunk is done, I can put back in the gas tank that I sealed 2 years ago, run fuel lines and START THE CAR. This will be a big moral victory, as it means no more pushing the car around when I want to work on it. I can just drive that bitch! I also toyed with the idea of buying a rolling shell in good shape and moving all the parts I have over. Saving me the joy of a lot more welding. This idea nearly came to fruition a week ago, when I came across an estate auction for a guy nearish to me that built 2002s. "Well hey there" I thought to myself. Up for auction were two rolling shells, both of which had the rust work done, one of which was painted and the other wasn't. I decided I would make a go for the unpainted body. As it was still more or less bare metal, and had no title I was hoping that I could pick it up for a few grand. I was wrong. The painted body sold for $14K. Absolutely stupid money for a car that had brand new paint already failing in places. The untitled, unpainted body sold for $4K. I was in the auction until $3K but was not going to go any higher then that. The guy that wont the auction was the guy that was bidding (but ultimately lost the auction for) the painted body. He had cash and was determined to come home with a car. IMO, this is crazy money. This is "buy a nice running and driving car" money for a car that had mediocre paint at best. The rolling shell was also somewhat crazy IMO. I guess you can chalk it up to "east coast premium," but again it was approaching driver car money for a shell that still needed several grand worth of work before it was actually a car again. The whole thing left me feeling pretty good about my little green 2002 that I paid 2002 for in June of 2016. I've been keeping track of my costs, and I'm going to be way under 4K once my rust remediation is complete - and my car has a clean title. Cheers all! Zach
  2. vacca rabite

    2002 trunk floor?

    Wolf has their version of the trunk floors. I got email from them this morning and may go that route. However, a friend that restores cars professionally said not to use Wolf, as they have a rep for making substandard parts (he quoted thin metal and poor stampings). Which I am bummed to hear as I was ready to pull the trigger. Since the cost is the same, he is advising me to wait until RD or W&N or BMW had them back in stock. I don't suppose anyone had used the Wolf panel and could advise me on the fit and quality? Zach
  3. vacca rabite

    2002 trunk floor?

    BavAuto does not have them. Zach
  4. vacca rabite

    2002 trunk floor?

    Sorry, yes i meant the metal, not the carpet. My tire well and the area around the gas tank is SHOT. Alex at Restoration Design was supposed to get them back in stock in June. But when I called last week he said his supplier still has them on a 3 month backorder. I've checked with W&N and BMW Classic. I've not checke with BavAuto. I'll call them next. If I can find someone with a good tire well, I COULD make the panel myself out of sheet. Zach
  5. vacca rabite

    2002 trunk floor?

    Does anyone know who makes the 2002 trunk floor panels? Everyone seems to be out of stock. I'm on the waiting list at Restoration Design, W&N don't have them on the catalog at the moment, and BMW classic has them on the catalog but none in stock. Zach
  6. I would not ever use cloth braided lines for fuel anymore. They degrade from the inside out due to the alcohol. Last year a friends M3 burned up. Use the expensive ethanol rated fuel hose for your car. Fire sucks. Zach
  7. vacca rabite

    V8 1976 2002

    Looks like you have had a few different iterations of the hood. Curious to know what has worked better, the forward facing scoop or the wedge with the pocket facing the windshield? Which are you running now? Zach
  8. vacca rabite

    Rattle can alternatives...tried any?

    I've used the Preval sprayers many many times. They work fine, but as others have mentioned, they spit out a lot of paint pretty quick. Its really easy to get runs with them, as you have to thin the paint a little more then you would in a gun. For small parts, or where you just cant bring a compressor or turbine, they DO work pretty well through. Just be ready to go through several bottles of propellant, and practice first before you start painting your project. Its very, VERY easy to get runs. In my area there are a couple cars that have been given the Rustoleum paint job. IMO, if you put in the care, the job can look really good. BUT! Its no where near as durable as a 2K paint, and the Rustoleum tends to start oxidizing much faster. You also need to put on many more coats then normal. And frankly, there will always be a stigma of "you painted that with RUSTOLEUM?!?" Zach
  9. vacca rabite

    Chrome will turn into Rust

    I do not like POR-15. The prep work is vast. The advertising suggest you can just paint it on. NOPE. You need to de-scale the steel, wash it with their prep product (Metal Ready - mild acid etching degreaser) and wash that with soap and water. When the metal is TOTALLY dry, then you can mix and apply the POR-15. If there is any moisture on the substrate, the POR-15 will not adhere there, and you will get a bubble. And you will get rust under that bubble. Many years ago I painted an tin lantern with POR-15. The lantern was rusty. I cleaned it, and applied the POR-15. The lantern was left outside, and the POR-15 was bubbling within a year and was flaking within 2 years. I did use POR-15 on the floors of my 914. OMG, that has to be 12 years ago now. There is one bubble where a drop of sweat dripped, but other then that it has worked. But I was WAY meticulous with the prep work. For the money, I think there are better products out there. Once you have descaled the rust, I like spray epoxy much better. Zach
  10. vacca rabite

    Shift Knob Thread Insert

    I make shifter knobs for fun as well. What I would do (and have done hundreds of times now) is get round delrin rod (acetal rod from Amazon, Delrin is a trade name) and machine that to fit. The Delrin (acetal) turns very easily on my wood lathe, and it is CHEAP and STRONG, and you can get the rods in almost any diameter. Brass works, but it is heavy. For older cars that do not have cable shifters, I want the shift knob to be a light as is possible. Otherwise, the weight of the knob is always bearing on the linkage. Kinda like leaving your hand on the shifter. For modern cars that want a counterweighted knob, I've used 1 inch brass and carbide tools and could work it on my lathe. No need to C&C. I've also had good luck with Aluminum. Again, I can machine it on my wood lathe. No need to C&C it. But I greatly prefer the acetal. Good luck, and great looking knob. Zach
  11. vacca rabite

    Sandblasting + compressor?

    In my post, 60 gallons referred to the size of the tank. Here in the US, compressors are rated by volume and CFM (cubic feet per minute) of air delvery at a certain PSI (pounds per square inch) pressure. Apologies, but I have no clue how its rated in the rest of the metric world. Probably (like most metric measurements) its a lot easier in metric. For instance, my compressor has a 60 gallon volume tank, and delvers about 7.5CFM at 90psi ( I think, been years since I looked at the data tag). Its on the small side for things like media blasting, but you can do it if you are willing to spend a good deal of time. Its about perfect for painting and running all my air tools. I think, once you have bought a compressor and paid for media and filtration and line driers, you are going to be cheaper paying to get the car blasted. But, I have no idea how expensive blasting is where you live. For me, I know I could get my 2002 vapor blasted for about $900 USD. I have also used mechanical means to strip a car, and chemical. Neither are fun. Mechanical probably takes the longest, but may be the cheapest if you can get the 3M pads cheaply and have a decent drill that won't burn out 1/2 way though the job. I would always choose mechanical over chemical. Chemical just SUCKS, unless you get the car dipped. You end up getting burned. Crap drips everywhere. Its slow and messy and the cleanup is toxic. Dipping is awesome, but its expensive and can be hard on the metal of your car if the dipper isn't paying attention. Cool pics, by the way. Looks like a fun project with a solid start.
  12. vacca rabite

    Sandblasting + compressor?

    Couple things. 1) DO NOT USE SAND 2) Seriously, do not use sand. Do a search and use something other then sand. Sand is bad. Ground glass with rust inhibitor works really well. Aluminum oxide. Anything but sand. Silicosis is bad, and the sand is going to get trapped in lots of blind corners where it will trap water and rust you from the inside out, and will also work into the paint. Bad ju-ju. 3) IMO you need at least 60 gallons capacity to blast a car. It is going to take a long time. Its is going to make a huge mess. Consider farming this out. There are a bunch of blasting innovations over the past few years. Dustless. Soda. They work, and almost all of them are gentler to the thin metal on your car, and some of them will place a protective coating on your car that will keep it from rusting if you can't paint it right away. You have to wash it off before you paint, but thats way better then getting to your car the next weekend and seeing a film of orange flash rust all over it. 5) IMO, you need at least 60 gallons to paint, and you need good filtration. OR, you need a HVLP turbine. If you are only getting the compressor to paint, you may want to consider a turbine. If you have never painted a car before, its a lot of fun. But there is also a steep learning curve. Your first car is going to look like an amateur paint job, becasue it will be an amateur paint job. That does not mean its going to look bad, but it does mean that pros are going to spot flaws from 10 feet away. I'm still proud of the first car I painted, and still have it, and plan on repainting it someday. 6) Or another option is for you to do all the prep work. Spray primer and get the car all smooth, but then give the car to a low-priced shop to squirt on the color and clear. Those types of shops usually cut a lot of corners on the body work, but they know how to lay down a coat of paint. If you do the body work and lay down the primer, the paint shop can play to its strengths, and you get a really nice paint job at a fraction of the price. Best of luck! Also:
  13. vacca rabite

    Roof dents...a better way to fix?

    Sectioning that roof should be the last resort. I doubt PDR will get that, but I have been wrong before about what those guys can do. If it were me I'd break out the stud welder and slide hammer. Zach
  14. vacca rabite

    Dog days of summer

    Where in Maryland? I do this as a hobby, and barely have time to work on my own car. I'd be interested in helping you do it, but doing the work myself would be a false economy for you ;-) As for shops - Kahiko Customs in Richmond Virginia is where my car lives right now. The owner is a very good friend of mine, and one of the best body guys on the east coast. He's just had one of his restorations make the cover of Rodder's Journal, and specializes in Porsche and BMWs. Zach
  15. The advice to match the wrist pins to the pistons is a good one. Be sure to include whatever keepers (if used) hold the wrist pin in, and even including the piston rings (and then marking everything to be sure that the unit stays matched). Everything that rotates should be balanced. Some shops offer dynamic balancing which is AWESOME, but you have to give them everything that spins, and you get back everything indexed! Indexed down to which bolt goes into which hole. Overkill? For this application probably. But as others have said, the closer your engine gets to being perfectly balanced, the smoother it will run, the faster you can rev it (at least till you start floating valve springs) and the longer it will last. Most home builders can easily balance the piston assemblies, the rods (balance them big end and small end and overall). balancing the crank, cam, flywheel (with clutch pack included) is harder for the home builder but should be easy for your machinist. Youtube also has ideas for bubble balances for these items for the DIY guy. And absolutely measure bearing clearance using plastigauge. I know that there are other ways to measure squish that some people prefer, but plasitguage will get you into the bearing tolerance that you are looking for very quickly and positively. Also. Clean clean clean. Sounds like you have this one under control. Get that case surgical clean. Clean to the point where you would feel okay serving sunday dinner to your grandmother on it. Zach