vacca rabite

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About vacca rabite

  • Birthday June 13

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Dallastown PA
  • Interests Cars, Guns, Women

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  1. vacca rabite

    Looking for opinions...EFI talk

    I have not converted my 2002 to EFI (yet), but I have done it with my 914. My suggestion would be to use as many of the stock parts as you can. The M10 was used for decades, and you can find an EFI intake plenum and the other parts you need fairly easily.for piping and hard parts, don't reinvent the wheel where you don't have to. If you use Megasquirt (which was the route I went) you will want to use GM sensors both for cheapness and also for compatibility. Almost any EFI route you take will be able to run spark. DON'T do spark and fuel at the same time. Get fuel running first, and then do spark. Keep your variables manageable. I learned this the hard way... GET YOUR CAR DYNO TUNED. All the different EFI systems will claim you can tune it with a laptop while you drive. Which is technically possible. But its is not easy, and you will have better results on a dyno. EFI on its own won't make you car run any faster. It will allow you to dial in the best tune possible for almost any given running situation. Which means much easier cold starts, much better response up and down the rev range, and a lot more tolerance as air pressure shifts (ie - driving up and down mountains). Zach
  2. I spent the weekend finally getting some work done on my car. Previously I had ordered a trunk kit to replace the rusty metal in the tire well and around the gas tank. This weekend I got the well replaced. The new well was long and designed to be fit to size. I did some initial fitting and cut the lip off where it would be in the way. Next up was cutting out the old well. Fun times in cramped working conditions. Well is out and fitting the new well continues. There was a radius on the old well where it blended with the trunk floor, I removed it with a hammer and dolly to make a better connection when the new well went in. Everything is flat and a LIGHT coating of zinc primer has been sprayed on. You can see holes in the trunk floor where I have been using cleco clips to hold the new well in for fitting. fitted and clamped in place. Ready to be welded. This was as far as I got the first day. Cutting and fitting took about 7 hours of work. Next morning... Zap zap zap zap all the way around. I found a few placed where the zinc had gone on a little thick and was getting contaminated welds from it. So I took it down a bit and my welds got good again. Also welding up the holes from the cleco clips while I go. Well is in and I had plenty of time left to fit the well floor. it was close, but there were lots of gaps I'd need to close with hammer and dolly while welding it in. No room for clecos here, so I just layed in a couple tacks and went for it. Working around the well floor.The copper strip is used as a heat sink that weld won't stick to. The RR Spike is and dolly are both used to move the metal to cloe the gaps. You can see the gaps closing up where while I work around the well. This was a good bit of work. And its in, with literal minutes to spare before I had to stop work, clean up, and make the 3 hour drive back home. I scrubbed it with some ospho to remove the surface rust that had formed, and then sprayed on some more ospho to keep new rust from forming until the next time I could get to it. Next step will be the gas tank surround. Once that's done I can put the gas tank back in, run fuel lines, and no longer have to push the car around to work on it! Zach
  3. vacca rabite

    It Works? !!!!

    Curious to know how this story turned out? Is everything running smooth? Zach
  4. vacca rabite

    Too many cars?

    I've got my daily driver WRX, 2002, 914, another 914, and a Forrester I use during hunting season. Plus the GF's Highlander and Civic. The 2002 is still being restored. One of the 914s will never see the road again in my ownership of it (caged racer with severe rust issues). The Civic will go to her daughter when she gets her license. I'm at a point where probably something has to get sold, but I have no interest in selling anything. Its good to have options, but its too much. And I still look at things and say "ohhhh. I could buy that car." Zach
  5. vacca rabite

    It Works? !!!!

    My experience is apples and oranges for your application (MSII, different injectors, etc etc) but 60+PSI seems excessive for fuel pressure. I would have suspected a fuel pressure in the range of 30-40 PSI for a relatively tame 4 banger. I wonder if the pressure is part of the reason you have fuel dripping? You had mentioned that it was over the recommended max pressure. Zach
  6. vacca rabite

    Megasquirt EFI (and EDIS) for the BMW 2002 - Part 1

    I have Microsquirt set up on my 914. In your write-up you mentioned needing an additional module for running idle control. This is not correct (well at elast not for Microsquirt II, which is all my experience is with) You can run a two or three wire IAC through Microsquirt without an additional module. I did it with a 3 wire unit out of a Hyundia. The wiring is pretty simple. Power goes to your fuse block (I'm using the same 6 port panel you are, a solid choice!), one of the opener wires goes to ground through a 40 ohm resistor, and the other goes to the Microsqurt ECU (off hand I cant remember the position on the AMPSeal plug). It works like a charm and is very easy to fine tune through TunerStudio. While the Microsquirt is great for the "open" engine bay in a 914, I tend to think a MS2 box is better suited for a more traditional car like the 2002, since you can locate the ECU in the cabin or in a dry space in the engine bay. That said, I have a second Microsquirt ECU and will eventually put it in my 2002. Its AMAZING how much nicer the 914 is to drive then it was when I had carbs on it. Just turn the key and drive. Zach
  7. vacca rabite

    A quickie update

    Its only been a solid year since i have updated this blog. Bad Zach, no cookie for you! Over the past year I have: Bought a rusty parts car to harvest parts for my slightly less rusty car. Bought all the stuff required to redo the trunk metal floors. Cut out and welded up a LOT of rust all over the car. Cut out all the rotten trunk metal, and making my plan for welding in the good stuff. Redid my engine mounts, and a bunch of other smaller jobs around the engine bay. Got new tires put on an mounted. At this point there are basically three issue spots that remain. Both rockers still need love. The drivers side rocker is cleaned out, and still needs to be welded up. The pass side rocker is in much better shape, but still needs rot cut out. The trunk. I've cut out 90% of the rust out of the trunk. The trunk floor kit I have is modular, its not the big single stamped piece. Which is nice as its going to let me do this in stages. I want to finish up the trunk before I finish the rockers. My thinking here is that when the trunk is done, I can put back in the gas tank that I sealed 2 years ago, run fuel lines and START THE CAR. This will be a big moral victory, as it means no more pushing the car around when I want to work on it. I can just drive that bitch! I also toyed with the idea of buying a rolling shell in good shape and moving all the parts I have over. Saving me the joy of a lot more welding. This idea nearly came to fruition a week ago, when I came across an estate auction for a guy nearish to me that built 2002s. "Well hey there" I thought to myself. Up for auction were two rolling shells, both of which had the rust work done, one of which was painted and the other wasn't. I decided I would make a go for the unpainted body. As it was still more or less bare metal, and had no title I was hoping that I could pick it up for a few grand. I was wrong. The painted body sold for $14K. Absolutely stupid money for a car that had brand new paint already failing in places. The untitled, unpainted body sold for $4K. I was in the auction until $3K but was not going to go any higher then that. The guy that wont the auction was the guy that was bidding (but ultimately lost the auction for) the painted body. He had cash and was determined to come home with a car. IMO, this is crazy money. This is "buy a nice running and driving car" money for a car that had mediocre paint at best. The rolling shell was also somewhat crazy IMO. I guess you can chalk it up to "east coast premium," but again it was approaching driver car money for a shell that still needed several grand worth of work before it was actually a car again. The whole thing left me feeling pretty good about my little green 2002 that I paid 2002 for in June of 2016. I've been keeping track of my costs, and I'm going to be way under 4K once my rust remediation is complete - and my car has a clean title. Cheers all! Zach
  8. vacca rabite

    2002 trunk floor?

    Wolf has their version of the trunk floors. I got email from them this morning and may go that route. However, a friend that restores cars professionally said not to use Wolf, as they have a rep for making substandard parts (he quoted thin metal and poor stampings). Which I am bummed to hear as I was ready to pull the trigger. Since the cost is the same, he is advising me to wait until RD or W&N or BMW had them back in stock. I don't suppose anyone had used the Wolf panel and could advise me on the fit and quality? Zach
  9. vacca rabite

    2002 trunk floor?

    BavAuto does not have them. Zach
  10. vacca rabite

    2002 trunk floor?

    Sorry, yes i meant the metal, not the carpet. My tire well and the area around the gas tank is SHOT. Alex at Restoration Design was supposed to get them back in stock in June. But when I called last week he said his supplier still has them on a 3 month backorder. I've checked with W&N and BMW Classic. I've not checke with BavAuto. I'll call them next. If I can find someone with a good tire well, I COULD make the panel myself out of sheet. Zach
  11. vacca rabite

    2002 trunk floor?

    Does anyone know who makes the 2002 trunk floor panels? Everyone seems to be out of stock. I'm on the waiting list at Restoration Design, W&N don't have them on the catalog at the moment, and BMW classic has them on the catalog but none in stock. Zach
  12. I would not ever use cloth braided lines for fuel anymore. They degrade from the inside out due to the alcohol. Last year a friends M3 burned up. Use the expensive ethanol rated fuel hose for your car. Fire sucks. Zach
  13. vacca rabite

    V8 1976 2002

    Looks like you have had a few different iterations of the hood. Curious to know what has worked better, the forward facing scoop or the wedge with the pocket facing the windshield? Which are you running now? Zach
  14. vacca rabite

    Rattle can alternatives...tried any?

    I've used the Preval sprayers many many times. They work fine, but as others have mentioned, they spit out a lot of paint pretty quick. Its really easy to get runs with them, as you have to thin the paint a little more then you would in a gun. For small parts, or where you just cant bring a compressor or turbine, they DO work pretty well through. Just be ready to go through several bottles of propellant, and practice first before you start painting your project. Its very, VERY easy to get runs. In my area there are a couple cars that have been given the Rustoleum paint job. IMO, if you put in the care, the job can look really good. BUT! Its no where near as durable as a 2K paint, and the Rustoleum tends to start oxidizing much faster. You also need to put on many more coats then normal. And frankly, there will always be a stigma of "you painted that with RUSTOLEUM?!?" Zach
  15. vacca rabite

    Chrome will turn into Rust

    I do not like POR-15. The prep work is vast. The advertising suggest you can just paint it on. NOPE. You need to de-scale the steel, wash it with their prep product (Metal Ready - mild acid etching degreaser) and wash that with soap and water. When the metal is TOTALLY dry, then you can mix and apply the POR-15. If there is any moisture on the substrate, the POR-15 will not adhere there, and you will get a bubble. And you will get rust under that bubble. Many years ago I painted an tin lantern with POR-15. The lantern was rusty. I cleaned it, and applied the POR-15. The lantern was left outside, and the POR-15 was bubbling within a year and was flaking within 2 years. I did use POR-15 on the floors of my 914. OMG, that has to be 12 years ago now. There is one bubble where a drop of sweat dripped, but other then that it has worked. But I was WAY meticulous with the prep work. For the money, I think there are better products out there. Once you have descaled the rust, I like spray epoxy much better. Zach