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vacca rabite

Solex
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About vacca rabite

  • Birthday June 13

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  1. I see no reason why that would not work, but I think an IAC would probably work better and be somewhat easier to implement. Reason being is that the butterflies in the TB are large flaps, and you only want them cracked at startup, where as that IAC will have a small valve and you have many more degrees of freedom moving it to get a smooth idle and strong cold starting. But so long as your stepper motor can accurately move at very small increments, should work fine. You would have to engineer a way that operating the throttle while the "choke" was working would not strip it out or push it out of calibration, but I have to think that is a also a solvable problem (though the industry solution to this problem was the IAC valve. 🙂 ) Zach
  2. Trying to wrap my head around this. What would be the benefit? Just want to try something new (I totally get that!)? Loosing idle control could end up being a serious issue for you. I know I tried and tried to get my 914 to run without idle control, and either had a car that would not start when cold, or would have a monstrous idle when warm. Gave in and got the IAC in. If you have any access to a mill or did some creative welding I bet you could make a 12mm (or thinner) base plate with two bungs to allow air in to each throttle body from your existing 4 wire IAC. From there it would be a simple Y to join a pair of hoses to the port on IAC. You would need a stand alone IAC valve, if you are currently using the plunger type. VW has a 2 wire stand alone unit I have used, but its on the large side. I'm currently using a Hyundai 3 wire unit and a 3D printed plate that allows some hoses to be run. Pretty simple. Plus the Hyundai valve is only $11 off Amazon. Of course you could just get a slightly larger throttle body that would allow you to tap or weld some bungs in. Either way, the IAC is a solvable issue. Zach
  3. That’s really cool. I live how you can look at logs and see what your engine wants. Have you had the car on a dyno? Would be interesting to see before and after pulls to see what the new larger injectors get you (after tuning) Zach
  4. So I bought a MaxJax from Best Buy Automotive Equipment on Black Friday for just under $1800 shipped with liftgate to my home. My garage did not have the ceiling to support a larger lift. I have not gotten it yet, and THOUGHT I had posted here about it in case someone else wanted in on the deal. I guess my post was lost into the ether... :-/ I'm super excited about it! Though my 914 gets first crack on the lift as I need to do some sprucing up before I take it to Amelia Island in March, the 2002 restoration is going to be dragged home at some point this winter or spring and hopefully I'll be able to get the doors off, stip the car down and really make some progress on my restoration efforts. Zach
  5. Keep in mind the brine MD (and most of the MidA states) now use is worse then salt, and it stays on the roadway for weeks after. As soon as they spray for the first storm, keep your 2002 off the roads until the spring rains wash that crap away. The brine will weep and wick into every seam in the car and start rusting happily away - out of sight until the rust is so bad that the rot is a hole and compromising the panel. A good friend of mine had a really nice 914 that he loved driving daily around Baltimore where he worked and York PA where he lived. The car lasted 2 years before a more or less rust free car had bubbles forming around every leading edge and seam. Seriously heart breaking. Zach
  6. I’m friends with the son of the prior owner of my home. He said the slab on the original side of my garage is 8-10 inches thick, and the restoration side is 4-5 inches thick. So that won’t be an issue. I measured my ceiling. I only have 112 inches to the rafters and 10ft if I go between the rafters. I should probably call it 110 inches as I eventually want to drywall the ceiling to keep a little more heat in the restoration bay. the little Max Jax still seems like a great option. I like that it can be unbolted and moved out of the way. I’d have to change my garage door and opener to add a larger “Real” lift. Certainly possible, but I don’t know if going up another foot is worth the added costs. The old side of the garage has an 8+ inch slab. Same ceiling height though. I may have familial issues though if I tried to put a lift on that side. Eventually I want to put a 4 post there so I could park the 2002 and 914 in the same spot. Zach
  7. I may need to cut and pour as well. I’m not sure how thick the pad is in my garage. zach
  8. Does anyone here have experience with the 6000lbs MaxJax "portable" lift? I'm thinking hard about bringing my 2002 home this winter to try and push through the rust repair. And I'm thinking I want a lift. 10Ft ceilings in my garage so I can't put in a standard. I don't really want a scissor lift. The last car I restored like this I stripped down to a shell and built a rotisserie. I don't want to do that with the 2002. I think I can get everything I need to get done done with a lift (and then I still have a lift for doing oil changes, etc with my small fleet of cars. Likewise, for maintenance - has anyone had issues with using the MaxJax on larger vehicles like a 5th Gen 4Runner? Thanks! Zach
  9. Thanks! I think I should be able to modify the stock rails to use these seats. I grew up bouncing between Dallas and Lake Texoma. I do not miss that heat and humidity! To this day I'll visit in the winter, spring and fall - but NEVER in the summer. Zach
  10. Porsche prices have jumped. But so have 2002 prices. I suspect that 2002 prices will continue to rise for the next several years. I really don't get the "Porsche guys are A-holes" attitude that I've seen in this thread. In my experience the guys that own 2002s also tend to own 914s, 912s, 944s, etc. Zach (who also owns a 914-4)
  11. This past weekend I got epoxy down on the trunk. I think I can cross this off the list until its time for final paint. Thee are a few small areas that yet need to be addressed that will be addressed when the car is in PA and I can take the rear glass out, but structurally the trunk is now sound. This makes me very happy. And today, something showed up in the mail for me! Really excited about these. There is also a rear seat cover that I have not unpacked yet. I ordered them from a small shop in Thailand that restores them, and was nervous about it being a scam. But after 8 weeks in a container they showed up at my door today! The tracking site the guy sent me had not even updated yet (as of Sunday) so I did not even know they had landed and gone through customs and been delivered to the US Post for delivery. Zach
  12. I just did mine over the spring. I waited a long time for the W/N parts to come back in stock, and then found a different trunk kit from Wolf Steel/Alfa Parts. It worked great. If anything, their kit was easier to manage due to it not being one big panel. It was easier to use the parts I needed, and the shapes were well fitted to my trunk. Zach
  13. This past weekend was another work weekend on the BMW down in Virginia. As usual, it poured. There was thunder and lightning and flood warnings. Almost every time I go to work on the car during the spring summer and fall, it has been pouring, and I'm driving 200 miles from York PA to Charles City VA. Regardless, considerable work got completed. Previously I had cut out and welded in a new spare tire well. This past weekend I was working on the other side, taking care of the gas tank surround. I found lots of thick bondo where someone had gooped it in hoping to hide the rust issues this car has. Lots of drilled out spot welds later, the rusty panel was cut free and I could start cleaning up the remaining flanges. My plan was to use the original spot weld locations for rosette welds. Test fitting the new panel from Wolf could now start. This panel needed less fitting then others I have done, but it still took me several hours to get it fitting tight like it should be. This pic is from early in the process, and you can see just how much further the panel needs to come up. The next few pics show fitment getting much closer! I was very happy with how exact I was able to get my butts to line up where I retained the original sheet metal and cut away from the new panel. Where the shipping tie down was cut away, I also welded a patch there after the new panel was in, but I think I forgot to get pics of that, so there is still a rectangle on the fender that is open in these pics. Now I've sprayed down some 3M weld through primer and gotten the new panel all clamped in. This was as far as I got the first day, but I was very content with it! It takes me 7 hours what my friend does in 3-4, but its fitting well and ready to get burned in. Next day I broke out the MIG and went to town. I welded in the panel using mostly rosettes as planned, but also a few seam welds where it made sense. I learned again (and again) that retired running shoes, while comfortable, don't stop weld splatter. Usually I remember to bring boots, but I forgot them this weekend. Such is life. Then I had to go and do more panel fitment to get the new panel to line up with all the old spot welds behind the rear bumper. This took more effort then I anticipated, but my favorite sheet metal tools (a large ball peen hammer and a rail-road spike) worked wonders here. Yes, at my friends shop I have access to all his fancy metal working hammers and dollies and I use a ball peen and a RR spike. Don't judge me. Hit them with the 3M Weld through, burned in some rosettes and ground them down. I also went back over the spare tire well and added some weld to close all the gaps I found when I looked closely at it. I was rushing last time and the work showed. Now it looks MUCH nicer. Finally, I laid in the gas tank for test fitting and it fit perfect, just as it should. At this point I ran out of time. The welding and cleanup was done, but wanted to do metal prep and spray some epoxy over all the new clean sheet metal. That did not happen. Which only means I'll have some surface rust to clean off the next time I get down there, and I'll spray it then. At this point all the structural rust in the trunk has been resolved. I only have 2 more structural areas to fix, as well as some cosmetic issues, and then all the rust repair will be complete. I'm hoping to do the drivers side rocker the next time I'm down there (july?) which will be the big task. The pass side rocker is the other structural fix, but it will be a much easier cut and weld job. Thanks for reading, and until next time... Zach
  14. I have not converted my 2002 to EFI (yet), but I have done it with my 914. My suggestion would be to use as many of the stock parts as you can. The M10 was used for decades, and you can find an EFI intake plenum and the other parts you need fairly easily.for piping and hard parts, don't reinvent the wheel where you don't have to. If you use Megasquirt (which was the route I went) you will want to use GM sensors both for cheapness and also for compatibility. Almost any EFI route you take will be able to run spark. DON'T do spark and fuel at the same time. Get fuel running first, and then do spark. Keep your variables manageable. I learned this the hard way... GET YOUR CAR DYNO TUNED. All the different EFI systems will claim you can tune it with a laptop while you drive. Which is technically possible. But its is not easy, and you will have better results on a dyno. EFI on its own won't make you car run any faster. It will allow you to dial in the best tune possible for almost any given running situation. Which means much easier cold starts, much better response up and down the rev range, and a lot more tolerance as air pressure shifts (ie - driving up and down mountains). Zach
  15. I spent the weekend finally getting some work done on my car. Previously I had ordered a trunk kit to replace the rusty metal in the tire well and around the gas tank. This weekend I got the well replaced. The new well was long and designed to be fit to size. I did some initial fitting and cut the lip off where it would be in the way. Next up was cutting out the old well. Fun times in cramped working conditions. Well is out and fitting the new well continues. There was a radius on the old well where it blended with the trunk floor, I removed it with a hammer and dolly to make a better connection when the new well went in. Everything is flat and a LIGHT coating of zinc primer has been sprayed on. You can see holes in the trunk floor where I have been using cleco clips to hold the new well in for fitting. fitted and clamped in place. Ready to be welded. This was as far as I got the first day. Cutting and fitting took about 7 hours of work. Next morning... Zap zap zap zap all the way around. I found a few placed where the zinc had gone on a little thick and was getting contaminated welds from it. So I took it down a bit and my welds got good again. Also welding up the holes from the cleco clips while I go. Well is in and I had plenty of time left to fit the well floor. it was close, but there were lots of gaps I'd need to close with hammer and dolly while welding it in. No room for clecos here, so I just layed in a couple tacks and went for it. Working around the well floor.The copper strip is used as a heat sink that weld won't stick to. The RR Spike is and dolly are both used to move the metal to cloe the gaps. You can see the gaps closing up where while I work around the well. This was a good bit of work. And its in, with literal minutes to spare before I had to stop work, clean up, and make the 3 hour drive back home. I scrubbed it with some ospho to remove the surface rust that had formed, and then sprayed on some more ospho to keep new rust from forming until the next time I could get to it. Next step will be the gas tank surround. Once that's done I can put the gas tank back in, run fuel lines, and no longer have to push the car around to work on it! Zach


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