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About VWJake

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  1. I’d take the drivers side frame rail. Some rot is ok as long as it’s straight.
  2. It’ll be interesting to see how they compare. The GM TBI has been around for ages and I suspect it will do everything the Sniper system will do aside from the “auto-tune”.
  3. Yep, Moates.net Burn2 and TunerPro RT v5 and 3 chips to work with. It’s nice to datalog and make changes based on what I see.
  4. I know it’s not quite apples to apples, but my ‘55 International Harvester straight six likes the GM TBI system from an Astro van just fine. Sure I’ve had to modify some parameters (I’m on my 17th chip written and still likely have 5-10 more to go before I’m 100% satisfied ), but it really seems quite happy with the old school TBI. I’ll start gathering the pieces to put a double barrel TBI on an M10 and see where it goes. My ‘73 can be the test mule. It’ll have a 292 cam, header, exhaust. I have a 38/38 for it as well but swapping the two will be easy enough. I think with the right fuel pressure and injectors some tweaks to the maps etc should make for a fine runner.
  5. Is it just me or does that front wheel look too far forward in the well? Those tie downs look like they’re twisting the air dam upwards as well. Cool sighting none the less.
  6. I widened the driver’s side wheel well tonight and replaced the back section of the drivers side quarter panel. Patterning the opening from the pass side didn’t go quite as planned, but in the end everything worked out fine. I’ve got a lot of grinding and pinhole welding to do before flipping the car around to get busy on the frame rails and firewall. Looks like 1-2 more fri nights back here. Fun times. 😄
  7. I will document it when I get there. Probably within the next month.
  8. Since the last update I’ve managed to complete the installation of the replacement trunk floor, the Jaymic spare tire well, a replacement tail panel, a new valence panel for that tail panel, delete the exhaust cutout in said valence panel, hang a trunk lid, replace the RR quarter panel bottom, and welded up the wheel opening on the RR corner. The bulk of the repairs to this point have been pretty straight forward. The only thing that took some creativity was closing up the wheel opening. I’d casually puzzled over this for months now and finally just dove in on Fri night. The solution was remarkably simple. I used a piece of welding rod to form the arc of opening and welded the quarter panel to that. With the shape solidified I then cut slits in the inner wheel housing every half inch or so and folded those flaps out to meet the rod. Then it was a simple task of using a cut off wheel to remove the excess and weld it together. A little work with a flap wheel it’s a solid clean wheel opening ready to be hidden by a turbo flare. I will form another length of welding rod to mimic this opening for the other side so that they match. I’m looking forward to wrapping up the rear of this project in the coming weeks so that I can jump back into the front end. The nose will be coming off, major repairs to the nose that will go in its place, some firewall repairs, and some major frame rail fab work by yours truly.
  9. Chamonix ‘73 tonight - I was tired of looking that RR wheel opening so I finally did something about it. I used a piece of welding rod to create the lip for the new opening. I clipped the inner well at 1/2” intervals and folded them out to meet the quarter panel and the welding rod. I’m happy. I just had to fit a flare and tire. I can’t waut to see this done.
  10. Chamonix ‘73- I tried spot welding the tail panel to the floor pan. I my haste to install the tail panel I neglected to sand the inside where the floor pan flange meets. I ended up drilling and plug welding the tail panel. No biggie, but I was hoping to use a spot welder for speed. The bumper brackets are welded in. I replaced the right rear quarter lower section as well. oh, and I deleted the exhaust cutout. I won’t be needing that where this project is going.
  11. This makes me feel confused and a little funny in my pants.
  12. Chamonix ‘73 Lower portion of the rear panel has been replaced. Next time I get a chance I’m going to try a spot welder to attach the floor pan to the rear panel. If it doesn’t work out I’ll plug weld the two together. I welded in the rib that divides the right and left halves of the trunk. I also mounted The trunk lid. I wanted to be sure that it fit well. There’s an inconsistent overhang at the back corners . I think I see some inconsistencies between the corners of the lid; perhaps the lip is bent. The gap along the sides feels reasonably consistent and balanced side to side. I’ll make some templates to compare things and go from there.
  13. It's been a while since I was into watercooleds, occasionally I catch myself looking for another Mk2 Coupe to tinker with.
  14. VW did it on production Sciroccos in the late 70s early 80s as I recall. I mimic’d the linkages one of my ‘89 GLIs back in the day. I got it near 180* swept area. Too far and you had to worry about over centering the wiper (if that makes any sense). It worked ok, took a bit to get used to the unswept area on the windshield even with a 22” blade. Mercs has mono wipers for a while too (90s?). They operated in a “W” pattern. That seemed much more robust that the single arm VW design. Get rid of the heater box and you could likely adapt any linkage setup you’d care to.

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