xr4tic

Those are the choke flaps and it looks to me like you have an electric choke, there should be an ignition powered wire going to the choke (spade terminal that slides on, grounded through the carb/engine) The ignition power slowly heats the coil and opens the choke over a certain period of time You have to loosen the 3 Philips screws and twist it to adjust it, but I'm personally still trying to figure out how to adjust it correctly.

One in the front, one in the rear, AWD!

Sounds like a vacuum leak. You could try disconnecting/plugging the brake booster vacuum line and see if it still happens, just be ready to stand on the brakes when you go to stop. Otherwise, check and re-check every vacuum hose, you can try spraying starting fluid around the hoses/base of the carb and see if the idle changes. Keep a fire extinguisher close by though.

If you got the woodgrain, now's a good time to vinyl wrap it with something not so 70's-ish.

Are those the IE window crank/knobs? How do you like them? Do they fit good?

That is going to need a LOT of work, most likely: floorpans, rockers, fenders, frame rails, strut/shock towers, trunk floor I'd say $2-$3K as it sits, but the rust repair will be $$$

I seriously looked into the Retroject: https://www.webcon.co.uk/products/15299-retroject-3838-throttle-body/ But my heart was set on ITBs, so that's the route I'm going (with Microsquirt EFI)

If the bolts aren't broken/rounded off/super rusty, then the only reason to replace them is if you want it to look pretty. Locknuts should probably be replaced, but normal nuts should be fine for re-use. https://www.belmetric.com/ has a good selection of yellow zinc plated metric hardware if you only want to replace what you need vs. buying a whole kit.

Couple days ago I patched up a couple holes in the passenger floorpan and seam sealed it up Today I started putting down some Dynamat Extreme, followed by Noico 150mil insulation.

Started cutting out rusty spots on the passenger side floorpan (pics later), installed a new handbrake, and my RHD ITBs were delivered today. I forget what model BMW this came from: ITBeeeeeeeeeeez:

EFI parts collecting has officially begun. Microsquirt, LS truck coils, 440cc Injectors, 02Again trigger wheel (already installed)

Yes, as long as you get an appropriately rated one for your climate. The upside of the Lithium batteries is that you can pack a big punch in a small package, the downside is cost. You also need a maintainer made for Lithium batteries.

Looks like Gran Turismo game, the X1 was a made-up car just for that game.

3 lbs, stock location (ish), no current loss issues due to long cables, lots of room.

Don't forget reduced friction! I did the same on my rebuild, but it was mainly about cost lol.

I did epoxy in my last garage, I'm leaving the new garage bare. Here in Michigan, in the spring and fall, condensation is an issue. There were several times my floor was wet and slippery (I had the anti-slip clear coat on it) and if I had any cardboard boxes on the floor, they would get soaked.

From Amazon, I've got 3 of them on that wall: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I2CHTEW/ There are a few reviews that complained that the lag bolts broke, so I would recommend buying some quality bolts to attach it to the wall.

I know a few people who swear by Marvel Mystery Oil. Put some in the gas and some in the oil roughly 500 miles before an oil change. Although I think a quality oil and proper oil change schedule from the start would be best.

Welp, almost 2 years since my last blog post. High-level overview of what's happened since then: 2019: Bought a property to build a new house (and more importantly, a bigger garage) Pulled the motor back out (couldn't get the 5-speed trans in no matter how much I cursed at it) Reinstalled motor/trans Fab'd a new trans mount Installed IE gas pedal Completely re-wired engine bay and fuse box Built battery holder and installed AntiGravity Lithium Battery in stock location Installed a fuel cell Installed a Tanks Inc fuel pump Installed aftermarket gas cap (3D printed an adapter) 2020: Ran new fuel lines Installed adjustable FPR (3-60 psi range, good for carb and efi) R&R'd intake and exhaust manifolds so I could replace SEVEN leaky freeze plugs (somehow messed that up while building the motor) Reinstalled dash Finished wiring Got car running New house finished/sold old house/moved (I don't recommend doing this during a pandemic) Drove car to new place Pulled car out to do insulation/drywall in new garage Drove car back in 2019 was a much more productive year than 2020 Picture time! RHD Lightweight Flywheel Engine/Trans going back in Patching floorboard Home made 5 speed mount IE gas pedal AntiGravity Lithium Battery Fusebox/wiring Fuel Cell Install Fuel Lines Garage Done (But still messy)

Any updates on this ITB kit?

Finished the insulation/drywall in my new garage (24W x 30D x 12H) and pulled the '02 in Still got some unpacking to do, but I at least have space to work on the car again.

A few people on the board are running a turbo setup from Midnight Motorsports, got some pics of the manifold on IG, looks really nice, no idea of cost though. https://www.instagram.com/p/BuvSOLgg2Uv/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

I have #3 and they are trashed, so I would be good with any aftermarket option that was similar looking, assuming price isn't outrageous. I would also say that #3 begs for some sort of design in the middle, maybe a replaceable plate so people have options - BMW, 2002, ///M, ///M2, etc.

Already done, NiCopp lines w/EFI pump, FPR is adjustable from 3 - 60psi, running carb now and with a spring change, can run EFI

It's comparable because whenever someone asks about an F20 swap, a lot of the replies are "just rebuild your M10" and usually followed up with "turbo it" Plus, most M10s are well used and probably in need of a rebuild (mine was), whereas an F20 has lots of life left and doesn't need a rebuild, it would be a waste of money. My point is the cost issue, it's not as cheap as people seem to think, and if you want more performance, you'll be adding thousands to the cost. If, however, you have a nice running M10 with some light mods and are looking for more, then EFI+turbo is probably the best cost to performance ratio, but not everyone is starting there.