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About Henning

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  1. I'm not quite sure what you mean by cat whiskers but here's my suggestion: And here's the clip you're looking for: It's #10. BMW 51 21 6 454 231. Link: http://de.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/114-Sedan/Europe/1502-M10/L-M/browse/bodywork/door_front_2 hen
  2. Thinking about the different levels of input/output shafts of 2002 and E30 diffs. I guess any engineer designs a straight crank-trans-drive-diff-input shaft line. This seems nearly impossible to adjust in an 02. Maybe it's to put distance washers to the rear trans suspension and the center bearing. Probably this doesn't matter when not driving a lot but to me this is not 100% clean. hen
  3. An engine project including LH 2.2 Several years ago I came to this Bosch LH system used in old Volvos. I became curious, got one and checked it out in an 02 parts car. It ran immediately, but the idle was inacceptable and I didn‘t get this under control. My car was running fine with the KF, so the LH fell asleep again. But the KF is no good for short-distance driving. Too rich when cold, too much soot and too much fuel. Hard to trim to different camshafts, 4-throttles and such. So I took the engine out, removed the KF and started to install the LH2.2 system and some more. Cleaning the chain cover for the tensioner cap: There was a kind of groove inside, probably due to corrosion. I don‘t know. But it is the original part to this engine and it had to return to its place. Yes, I should buy a 4-jaw chuck. Lathers like Tom may dispraise me. Then there are these E21-series filter sockets. I don‘t know what this additional sprue in the centeris for, but I found a purpose for it. Lathing again: An oil temp sender. There are these senders instead of the pan plug, but I think this is not very exact. Wire ugly to run. Coming quite directly from the pump, this should give a true value here. Oil pan: Aluminum version from a 1600GT. I had it already being modified to fit the 02 subframe but I didn‘t know it doesn‘t fit the pickup. So I had to switch to the later E21 pickup: Fits good, but only without this tin can. No. I can't weld aluminum. Base finished: 1600 Block bored to 89,25mm, 2002 crank, tii pianos, -head and -dizzy and a 284° Schrick camshaft. I‘ve never heard much about this, but it was sleeping in the shelf for many years- so I put it in. It fits: So from here we go. Block with ignition, starter, alternator, water pump and base wiring. Open for intake ideas. Concerning the LH system I would need: electric injectors, a second water temp sender, a bypass for the idle air control, a different throttle linkage and some more smaller things. The injector port is taken from a 75-77 320i with K-jetronic, the water divider also. Divider maybe 318i what‘s more or less the same. I already wrote in a thread some time ago that I don‘t like this later 318i intake because of the difficulties about the battery and airbox. The bypass is branched off at the front of the throttle body. A short piece of water line from the hardware store, both ends tapped. I cut slots at the sides of one end and got a tapper this way. Flipped, lathed for a hose and inserted: On the lathe for cleaning the inside: With IAC and fuel pressure regulator: There‘s an additional manual idle valve parallel to the IAC. I didn‘t know if I would need it or not, but to have is better than to need. The pictures are taken on a kind of model engine where I‘ve prepared all items before installing them into the car. Pretty tight , hardly light: The lever linkage maybe the best there is but it is a lot of stuff. Let‘s go cable now. First checkout: Later I added a drag spring between the pedal lever and the soul to protect it from overload. Did you know that the inside of a cable sleeve is called ‚soul‘ in german? Nearly complete: Electrics: Harness with combi relais for injectors, oxygen sensor, pump, air mass meter and IAC. And there‘s a voltage limiter to avoid peaks getting into the ECU but it‘s useless. The limiting is too low and the ECU doesn‘t get a solid speed signal so I had to jump it. I‘ve been driving with the car but I‘m not satisfied with the idle. Maybe replacing the IAC will make it better- as far as the covid regulations don‘t restrict me from working on the car. So far til today
  4. So you've been always selling us your 76 as a polaris, Steve. But isn't this the proof that it used to be chamonix from factory? Messaged to you some moments too late in that "Priority Mail"? *crinklingforehead* hen
  5. As I can recall, it's correct towards the tunnel on both sides. 69 owners may chime in here to confirm. But this has nothing to do with the seat's subframe. If the passenger seat rubs the same way, you may think about a side-to-side-swap. hen
  6. Somebody removed the hood with the hinges on. And reinstalled not carefully enough. Blame the PO. hen
  7. These carbs have definitely been to Tom for a service to be mice-proofed. hen
  8. Should we pay some attention that this thread does not get in rivalry to "What did you do to..."? I guess I was lucky to be able to pick up my modified GT oil pan from the radiator shop: Next week the shop may be closed. hen
  9. I'd prefer this one: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17b13/11-3431 Since the intake doesn't interfere with one of the mounting holes. I think one should be careful with later L-jet parts. Sometimes they are 12V, sometimes just 5V. My 2V. hen
  10. Yes, of course. Please consider shipping to Germany. hen
  11. I think it's #15: Links: http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/114-Sedan/Europe/2002tii-M10/L-M/1973/browse/engine/lubrication_system http://de.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/114-Sedan/Europe/2002tii-M10/L-M/1973/browse/engine/lubrication_system (including prices) 50 Bucks, not really chirpy chirpy cheap cheap... hen
  12. This is a very common issue. Check for proper electrical connections wherever you can find, especially grounds. The indicator works in dependence of the load. So if there's a loss of load it won't work. It works once when the signals are activated because the cold bulbs draw more current than warm ones. I remember a 72 roundie I owned some years ago that I converted to square lights because it was rear-ended (I didn't have a roundie tail panel). Before, the indicator worked like yours and after, it worked like it should. I think it is because square lights have better ground connections without this cinc-press-cast housing. My idea. hen
  13. Access to parking light passenger side. Activates the driving light's wiper function if lit. Both sides, of course. hen

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