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The Kangaroo Man

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    Madison, Wisconsin
  • Interests
    Burning dinosaur juice

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  1. Well, pulling the trans will give me time to better under coat the trans tunnel and do the shifter bushings. Thanks for the input, folks!
  2. Update: I re-bled the clutch and adjusted the master cylinder rod down by the clutch pedal (both shortening it a lot and lengthening it equally so). The clutch is still slipping. Could this be a master cylinder problem? Perhaps the cylinder isn't returning immediately as there's some resistance to it returning. As of now it's looking like a new clutch.
  3. What do you mean "bottoming the slave cylinder"?
  4. Finally got the 2002 up and running after the M20 swap. More specifically, driving! I'm pumped. Still a lot to do, but 6 months of work and I can now move the car without pushing. Anyways, turns out the engine is running really well. So went to give it some beans and got some (what I believe to be) clutch slippage and a smell that definitely smells like a bit of clutch. How do you know that the clutch is slipping? Great question! 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear under heavy throttle and the engine jumps to 4-5k but constant speed. I've got a 1987 M20b25 with the matching Getrag 260 that came with the parts car in a 1976 '02. Both engine and trans are stock. Didn't touch the flywheel or clutch while I was assembling the engine. The clutch plate itself looked OK when I inspected it. So I don't think that the clutch would be worn out after seeing just over 125k miles in another car. Maybe though? Would this be due to the clutch going bad, poor bleeding in the new clutch lines, wrongly adjusted 2002 clutch pedal or something completely different? Perhaps the clutch pedal in the 2002 is a longer lever than the getrag 260's clutch pressure arm and when the clutch pedal is completely released, the pressure arm isn't and thus still engaging the clutch a little? I dunno. Would appreciate some input on this as one of these previous guesses could mean a simple bleeding job and another could mean a complete transmission drop (which in an E30 is one thing, but in a 2002 is bit trickier). Thanks!
  5. What are my options for shifting or offsetting the pedals on my 76' 2002 (to the left) after an M20 swap? In banging the transmission tunnel out I shrunk the gap where the gas pedal goes between the brake pedal and transmission tunnel wall to the point where my foot wont really fit. Actually, when lifting off the throttle, my foot will catch both the tunnel wall and the brake pedal. I've read 2 posts here: one where someone re-welded the brake and clutch pedals over by about an inch. The other post was just asking for options and I didn't see many offered. So, just trying to get ideas on how to problem-solve this issue. Right now, it's making the car undriveable. Thanks in advance!
  6. Ended up buying my first car in the UK while I was in grad school. A 2002 Daihatsu Sirion Rally II. Fun little thing. Didn't have a lot of get-up, but it barely weighed a ton. Took it to Scotland and Germany in my downtime. Ran the 'Ring and maxed it on the Autobahn. Tried like mad to import it back, but it wasn't feasible as it was under 25 years old. Had been looking into 2002's for a while as I moved back to the states and found on in the area that I couldn't say no to.
  7. Update to get this bumped up... I've gotten the car to start. But only by bridging the DME relay. ya know, the trick where you connect pin 30 to both pin 87's? Well, it runs a bit rough. Probably a vacuum leak somewhere. But I digress. My main problem is the DME relay. As soon as I plug the relay back in, I go back to all crank and no start. What's worse is that I've tried 2 other brand new relays and I get nada. I'm even getting 12v to pin 86 on the DME relay with the ignition on. Everything in all the forums and troubleshooting guides I'm reading say that it should be a faulty DME relay, but when I put a new one in, I've got nothing. Any input here would be appreciated!
  8. Ok. Still no luck on this. And I'm getting a little frustrated. Here's the scoop: when I jump the car with the wire from Pin 11 to 14 on the diagnostics plug and turn the key in the ignition at the same time, I get spark and 12V to the ECU pin 27. But when I just try and turn the key by itself... nada. No lights, fuel pump, starter, anything. I know that 12v are getting to the ignition plug via the black/white wire. I also know that the ignition plug is wired correctly with black/white on the bottom, 2 green plugs running up the side (15 I believe), a purple wire on the opposite side and 2 red wires on the top 2 connectors. But there appears to be no voltage leaving the ignition switch unless the diagnostics plug is being jumped. Any help in this would be super appreciated right now. I'm so stinkin' close on this. Update: I guess this thread will just be a blog haha. It seems every time I post, I fix something. I was able to isolate the ignition switch fault. No power going to the ignition itself. Another facepalm moment. Still have the no fuel issues.
  9. Next up would be the green wire. Or, more specifically, which green wire? I see on both the car and the wiring diagram in the technical articles here that there are 4 green wires leaving from the ignition switch. I also know I've got power going to the ignition switch via the black/white wire from the C101. I've read that the green wire is supposed to be the wire going to the original ignition coil on the M10, but it's been several months since that was the case. Any help for finding which of the 4 green wires I should be cutting? Update: I now know the green wire is the problem as I can bypass it at the ignition switch and the ignition coil on the M20 gets power.
  10. Here's the current wire setup on the starter... Edit: the starter has 12V to it. I can confirm that with a multimeter. Update again: starter cranks. Stupid me had a bad ground connection. Major facepalm there.
  11. I didn’t post any pictures. I’ve got a “pre-facelift” starter with 3 wire attachment sites (drawing a blank on the actual name of them). 2 longer ones - the left one (closest to the starter) has just the ground to the starter. The right one (closest to the steering box) has both the power wire from the end of the battery wire and the red wire from the wiring loom. The bottom site has the black/yellow wire from the wiring loom.
  12. The task of wiring up the M20 has begun and I've already hit a stumbling block. Thankfully it was further along that I originally anticipated. I've got an E30 female C101 connctor that I just hacked out a parts car and spliced the 7 or so wires required for the swap. The problem is that the starter isn't even turning over. I've got power to the starter and I've got a small spark when I take a wire and connect pin 11 and 14 on the diagnostics plug, but the starter is showing no signs of firing up. I figure get the starter turning, then worry about fuel, spark and everything else. The battery is 2 days old. The M20 engine (including starter) out of a 1987 car ran just fine before I pulled it. I made sure of that. Which leaves the wiring to be the fault. My guess is that it's the green power wire as I can see a few green wires in there and I'm not quite sure which is the correct one. It's been awhile since the M10 was in the car. Plus, all the other wires needing splicing have color combos and are identified easier. It's funny, I started this whole project with electrical gremlins and inquired on this site and now I'm about to finish the project, but am running into (most likely) the same electrical gremlins I started with. Any input/thoughts are appreciated. Feel free to ask clarifying questions as well. Thanks!
  13. I just got the stock rubber mount off RockAuto. A bit less expensive than IE
  14. Currently, no. Never really thought of doing one. But I’m considering a write-up type thing when I’m done.
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