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The Kangaroo Man

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  1. I know there are kits for regular door cards. Or at least kits to repair/replace old or worn out door cards. Just wondering if anyone has ever done carbon fiber door cards? Are there kits that people know of? Perhaps pictures if they are a thing...?
  2. Appreciate the input, guys! I should probably mention I will be doing a full modern restoration on this car (brakes, suspension, chassis, the works). Those are things I have definitely budgeted/planned for as well.
  3. Alright! I'm looking for some input here from people who have probably done this before or know more than I do... I just picked up a '76 2002 with rod knock. Was planning on simply fixing the rod knock and getting it moving again with the hope of building it up to the traditional "hot-rod" car build (292 cam, 38/38 carb, intake, build head, exhaust, raised CR and forged internals, etc.) after driving it stock for a little while. Then when pulling the engine apart, I realized it was going to need more work and more parts as I found a fair bit of metal shards in the oil pan along with a shot connecting rod, cracked piston, a crankshaft needing re-machining, several (if not all) bolts improperly torqued and the rocker arms weren't tight. You know, the typical project car can of worms that gets opened. So, in my mind I was just going to save up for the parts to start the "hot rod" engine build right away when a friend mentioned an engine swap. I was budgeting just over $3,000 for the parts. I'd be doing all the work. After some initial research, the cheaper end of a stock M20 swap looks to be significantly cheaper than a rebuilt M10 and it yields 40ish more bhp (over the 140ish I was shooting for originally). Here's where I'm looking for advice... Are the parts, engine and trans for an M20 swap cheaper (still within the $3k-ish budget) than rebuilding the original engine? I'm not looking for purity here. I'm looking to build a weekend warrior/track day car. If it's cheaper and results in more power, in my mind it's a green light. Just wondering if there's anything that I'm missing that could rule out the engine swap option. Thanks in advance, Matt
  4. Alright, so my recently purchased '76 2002 has been under some deconstruction lately as it was a project to begin with. I've already removed the door cards and decided that I'll be re-doing them shortly with new material. Then today pulled the PO's dash cap off to reveal a cracked and faded dash. To be honest, I was pretty bummed as I know they're not exactly a dime a dozen. My second thought was this though... What if I could wrap the dash trim pieces to match the new interior door cards? I've just been toying with the idea in my head and figured I'd throw the idea out there for some feedback. So, what materials would be best suited for a dash/door card trim piece? I know the traditional fabrics such as leather, vinyl or suede. Is alcantara worth it (I know it's not great on steering wheels because they get used so much, but a dash doesn't get a lot of wear)? I also saw a couple previous forums with properly re-upholstered and stitched fabrics. I assume those aren't cheap either though? Has anyone wrapped a 2002 dash by themselves (DIY) before? Or is it worth it to get it professionally done? Is it even worth just looking for a new dash and not wrapping it? Lots of questions in there so any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
  5. Thanks for the replies. Regarding the engine speed, I know the current redline is about 6400 rpm. I've also heard that people raise the rev limit. With the upgraded valvetrain and internals, how hard is it to raise the redline to 7500 or 8000? Is that a common thing to do? If so, what kind of work is required. That way you've got more rpms to enjoy that power.
  6. Need some opinions... Working out the details of what will be required of my '76 2002 that's currently in project condition. I found this link featured on another forum post entitled "perfect engine build"... https://adamsautosport.com/information/tutorials/bmw-m10-street-hotrod-engine-checklist/ Just wondering what people's opinions are of the checklist? How comprehensive is it? Does it still hold up? My end goal for the car is to have that 135-145 bhp (at the crank), so I see this checklist and want to get started right away. Just wanna get a second opinion from folks who are probably more knowledgeable than myself. Thanks!
  7. Pulled the oil pan off and tried wiggling each connecting rod. Cylinder 1 was sufficiently lose.
  8. So, I'm currently taking apart my (recently purchased) 2002 (M10) engine from the oil pan as I've encountered some bad rod knock. Started by removing the rod bolt on the bad connecting rod (with bad rod knock), but the bottom of the connecting rod wont slide off. Is there any trick to getting the bottom half off to access the rod bearing? I figure it should just slide right off. Haven't tried the other con rods yet (with no rod knock), so it could just be that single con rod. Secondly, I'm seeing mixed responses to requiring new rod bolts/nuts. With an engine rebuild (which this build is stacking up to be a good one), are new rod bolts required or not? Thanks
  9. First post here. Haven't read a whole lot yet, so I'm assuming this has probably been covered before. Currently working on replacing the door cards on my '76 2002. Was able to get everything off except the window knobs (not the window cranks). I don't see any bolts, screws or latches surrounding it, so I'm kind of stumped on how to get it off. Any solutions to this problem? Thanks.

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