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The Kangaroo Man

Solex
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Madison, Wisconsin
  • Interests
    Burning dinosaur juice

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  1. Yeah, most roof tents I've seen come with the ladder attached. Obviously no one is going to be in it while moving. However, when parked with a human in the tent, that could total to 300 lbs (human(s) + tent). Are those specs 165 lbs per rail or for the total car - so 82.5 lbs per rail? Basically, are those load ratings only for dynamic loads (so moving down the road)? Or do they include static loads too (i.e. camping for the night in gear with the handbrake on and a wheel chock for good measure)? If those are just for dynamic loads and 2002's are made to take a little more while stationary, that would make me sleep a little better.
  2. Riddle me this... Could you feasibly run a roof tent (albeit a light and small one - I've seen tents for 1-2 people run in the 90-100 lbs range) on a 2002? I found this picture off a quick google search. Looks like the owner was in some sort of rally event judging by the numbers on the doors. Would running some type of set up like this work for a road trip? Obviously mileage would suffer. And probably wouldn't wanna hold more than 75 mph. But in my opinion, running a roof rack looks better than a tow hitch in back. And a roof tent allows for a bit more flexibility on where you set up over requiring a campsite to pitch a tent. Plus, I don't think 2002's are much for pulling camper trailers (even if they're small). I'm curious to know other's thoughts...
  3. Pulled the swapped engine to... Replace the selector rod seal in the trans Tighten a loose timing belt tensioner bolt Replace the shifter bushing Fix a coolant leak... The proceeded to put the engine back in and do 1-wheel peels as I don't have a limited-slip diff yet but I do have summer tires on cold and wet Wisconsin roads. 🤪
  4. I'm looking to buy some door cards too. Wallothnesch offers complete kits (all 4 door panels - front and rear) for other older BMW models for about $1300 right now. As far as I can tell, they don't offer the rears for 2002's For those who ordered these, do they fit??? Any updates?
  5. Since I've got the interior stripped on my M20 project at the moment. And the Wisconsin winter weather has crept in to the point where the car wont be driven much more this winter. I'm figuring it's time to start with some interior projects. First of which, I would think, would be a roll bar. A rear 4-pt. bar to be precise. This car will see track days in the future, but it's primary use will be on the road. New seats will be coming after the roll bar, so I know they will fit. I'm wondering what people's thoughts are on the various options for us 2002 owners in the rear roll bar category. I know Autoworks makes one. As well as Ireland Engineering and Kirk Racing. Some of those come with an optional removable harness bar. Is that worth it? Or should I just go permanent? Anyone have reviews on fitment and ease of installation? I believe the Kirk bar is the cheapest, financially speaking. So, as of now, I'm leaning that way. Lastly (and this is a fairly large concern), how far are these top bars going to be from the back of head in the cabin? I'm 6' 1", so my head isn't exactly touching the roof liner. I've seen plenty of people street drive with rear roll bars in. I just want someone else that's got one (since there's no one in my area that does) to let me know if there's space enough and my head isn't gonna wallop a steel bar upon acceleration or a rear end collision. As always, I appreciate the input, Matt
  6. Could the ICV simply be bad? It buzzed upon switching the car on and has been cleaned thoroughly.
  7. No, it does not appear to have been opened. This idle surging problem has only shown up in the last couple weeks. For the first several time I ran the car up to temperature after getting everything running after the swap, the engine ran fine. It idled a bit high because I didn't have the AFM connected. But it never surged.
  8. Well, O2 sensor finally arrived and nothing changed. The idle upon warm up was even smoother and a few hundred rpm lower (down in the 1000 rpm range), but once warm the surging returned. I also swapped out the coolant temp sensor (the blue one, correct? Not the brown one. The one closest to the last fuel injector?). Made no difference. I also cleaned out the ICV with brake clean and nothing changed. I did, however, unplug the fuel pressure regulator from the back end (the thin hose than runs from the regulator to the intake manifold) and that didn't make the surging worse. Would that indicate the fuel pressure regulator is bad? Is there a way to bench test a fuel pressure regulator? I mean, what else is there to check? I've changed the injectors, O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor. Cleaned the ICV and there are no vacuum leaks in the intake. Any other ideas on what this could be?
  9. Yeah, the car is currently at the exhaust shop getting an exhaust fabricated (I'm not that good with a welder yet). Thankfully, this new came just in time so I called and had them add a O2 bung. If, for some reason, the O2 sensor isn't the problem, I can just add a plug. But I've gotta feeling that's the case. I know O2 sensors tend to kill a car slowly and since I've had the car running for the last couple months for short periods, this is starting to fit the suspect bill quite well. I'll have the O2 sensor in later this week, so hopefully I can come back with some good news.
  10. I just used this article to retrofit my flasher relay (rather than paying an arm and a leg for an OEM flasher relay). EL-13 is the exact flasher you want. RockAuto has them for $3-$4. I went through 3 other relays to no avail. EL-13 is the one to go with.
  11. And from what I can tell, there isn't a plug in the wiring loom I took from the 325i parts car where an O2 sensor would plug in. I know its a pretty fat plug on the exhaust side of the engine bay, but there aren't any plugs (male or female) that are part of the loom on that side of the engine. Edit: check that, I believe I've got an older 1987 model. Which means that I don't have a fat plug, but rather a smaller one with 4 wires. And I believe I have an empty wiring loom end that's got those 4 plugs. Any way to cleverly bypass an O2 sensor? Or am I gonna have to fork over some cash for a new O2 sensor?
  12. Yeah, oil pick-up tube is stock. Haven't checked the dipstick seal yet.
  13. Trying to troubleshoot a 1976 M20-swapped 2002 (motor from a 1987 325i) that's surging when warmed up. When cold, or upon start-up, the car runs real smooth. But once it gets warmed up the idle starts surging. Usually between 800 and 1500 rpm. I just replaced the fuel injectors (the stock ones were old and dirty) with refurbished M50 17lb injectors. That seemed to help smooth out the idle when cold. I've got the AFM plugged in without an air filter at the moment and there aren't any glaring vacuum leaks in the intake (that I can see - trust me, I've checked everything aside from a smoke test). I haven't checked the fuel pressure regulator yet. I also removed the O2 sensor from the downpipe and plugged the hole because I couldn't find the respective plug in the E30's wiring loom. But I've never heard of an O2 sensor causing surging like this before. ICV is also functioning properly and is plugged in. Just wondering what some other people's takes are on this as I've hit a bit of a stumbling block.
  14. I'm posting this as my expertise on classic BMW exhaust systems is negligible and I'm sure there are others on the forum that know more than I. So, here it goes: I've got a '76 2002 that's been M20 swapped. For the time being, I've got the stock exhaust manifolds to a custom downpipe that was made with leftovers from an E30 donor car. It exits at the passenger's feet with no resonator, cat or muffler. Yes, it is actually that loud! But it's just for the sake of getting the car moving. I've read on a couple pages including the M20 swap for dummies article that 2.25" is a pretty ideal diameter. My end goal will be a crack over 200 bhp. I'm thinking 200 bhp at the wheels. I'm just wondering what header/diameter setup I should be shooting for here? Will MSDS headers help over the stock exhaust manifolds at the power level? Are there any other headers that will fit? Does a power target above 200 bhp merit 2.5" diameter? As for silencing, I was just going to run a resonator and a muffler in the rear with a single exit shooting out center rear. I'm thinking that should make for a tasteful sound that indicative of the straight-6. Just curious what others have done and where others have had success.
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