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jrhone

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jrhone last won the day on December 16 2018

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About jrhone

  • Birthday March 28

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    www.project2002.com

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    Male
  • Location
    Huntington Beach

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  1. Hello, 

    I saw your post about the paint job. 

    Can I please get the details as I like to get my car repaint as well! 

     

    thank you 

    6462478353

     

  2. Ouch. I always had great luck just calling them. Seemed faster and more reliable than the web orders. Easier than waiting for (hoping?) them to go out of business. The more businesses that keep 02s running the better.
  3. I did lots of research and this system was designed for classic cars...old wiring...all that. From what I read, you could use relays or not. System doesnt care. Lots of old VWs and 60s Porsches and early 02s dont have relays and no need to add them for the lights. Lower voltage drain than the H4 system. Higher light output.
  4. Here are the headlights by the way. They come with 3 lens options. Budget, E Code and Hella. I got the E code lenses. Unplug the light. Remove from the light bucket. Install new light in the light bucket. Plug in the new light. Done. Install was simple. Aimed so not to blind oncoming traffic. Color is white.
  5. OK...guys update.... I checked the grounds...checked voltage everywhere. Everything looked good...then I pulled the CRUSTY relay that ran the low beams...swapped it for a newer relay.... Problem solved. Headlights work like stock...just aloft more light.
  6. So the system i bought was a led bulb with a controller box with the 3 prong connector. Plug that into the socket on the car for the headlights and go. Designed for classic cars. So i had zero wiring to do and it was designed that way. Lots of these lights sold to the vw and porsche community as well as american hot rods. So not just some random bulb but a bulb, lens and it all plugs in into the stock harness. Will check the voltage when then key is but engine off and when the engine is on. When the key is on and the engine is off its perfect. Its just for 5 minutes after first starting the car that its high beam inly and then it starts to operate normally.
  7. yes i have the ground between alt and engine. Will check and clean grounds.
  8. So question. Why does it work normally when the engine isnt running? Why does it work normally after the engine has bern running 5 minutes? these are not just led bulbs plugged in. Its a whole light system designed for classic cars. If that matters.
  9. its a 76 and it has the factory wiring. working fine before. new lights are plug and play and connect directly to the existing connector. will try those things. I guess another basic question.... is it common for the voltage to fluctuate (at idle and various RPM's ) as the car gets warmer? Since the issue only happens when engine is running...maybe check alternator connections...which I did...but check again?
  10. My car is a 76. I have an e21 AL116x Bosch alternator. I got a new set of LED headlights. Install was easy, plug and play. Turned the ignition to the on position and the lights worked perfectly. Started the car and the lights jumped to hi beams. Turn it off and they work normally hi and lo beams. Started the car and played around with the fuses, relays, and after a few minutes, the lights switched to low beams and worked perfectly, low and high worked when switched. Called Vintage Car LEDs where I got the lights and they said while not common, it’s happened a few times and the when the LED controller senses low voltage it fail safes to the high beams. He thought it could be bad grounds. So what happens now is when you start the car, when you turn on the lights, high beams are on no matter what you do with the high beam switch. After the car is on for a few minutes the lights flicker, and then go to low beams then operate normally from then on. If this was a ground issue, I would think it would be constant, not just when the car is first started and for a few minutes. I would also think it would happen when the engine is running or not. When engine isn’t running and it’s on battery, it’s fine...when the engine is running and it’s on alternator, low voltage for a while then the voltage builds? I have a VDO voltmeter and it’s reads about 13-14 volts at all times. Maybe relay? Bad or old relay? Voltage regulator? Alternator? One other thing that’s odd, when driving and it’s in high beam only mode, if I hit a bump it flickers like there is a voltage jump when hitting bumps. Would love some ideas on where to start to diagnose the gremlins.
  11. Still waiting for tracking number and shipping confirmation.
  12. Lemme rephrase as now that I re-read my original post it doesnt sound clear. The heater is now functioning. The valve is fully open. Its only REALLY hot when the car temp gets about halfway up the temp gauge. That only happens at idle for a long period of time. While driving, temps never get above 1/4 the way up the temp gauge. Its an 80 degree t-stat. Will try and burp it again to get the air pockets out if there are any. Will check the cable adjustment. Thanks!
  13. So I swapped my heater valve...yup the old one wasn't working...now the car is blowing hot air all the time..sometimes VERY hot and sometimes just warm. It seems to fluctuate. Good thing is its never cold. I replaced the radiator last year with a 3 core high efficiency radiator from W&N. The car normally runs about 1/4 up on the temp gauge. almost never getting to halfway point unless sitting and idling. Is the car running too cold now? Maybe a Tstat stuck open? Or maybe it is my heater core?
  14. Ok. Update. Went to the garage. Warmed up the car and manually turned the heater valve to the open position. Turn the fan on and NO hot air. Cold. The hose going into the valve was hot. The hose on the other side of the valve is lukewarm at best. So it seems the valve is stuck closed. Also seems to be leaking just a bit from the valve. Not dripping just a bead of moisture under the valve and i could feel some wetness from the back of the valve. So the first step may be to swap the valve and go from there.
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