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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  


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About Hodgepodge

  • Birthday November 18

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Western Pennsylvania
  • Interests Car restoration, boating, robotics and animatronics, 3d printing,
  1. Removing the Reactor/Manifold in a '75

    I got all the sheilds off and discovered that the PO had attempted this removal before. The top nuts came off easily (They were actually loose). The bottom ones are stripped. Now I have to remove a bunch of other stuff (A/C) to get enough room to remove them.
  2. How to eliminate hard start/fumes in trunk

    It's probably not the Weber. I have two other cars with Webers (but with electric fuel pumps) and they crank right up after sitting forever. I do not have a check valve at all in my set up and my 2002 starts in less than 10 seconds. That's probably about how long it takes to fil the bowl. I'm going to keep fiddling with this but right now the car is on jack stands and the battery is out as I do other things.
  3. Fix the nose or...

    Buy a couple of small flexible magnetic pick up tools and a flexible claw tool. Magnetic pick-up Flexible claw I have a bunch of the flexible magnets, some flexible but rigid like a coat hanger and some that will snake around when pushed. I just used the claw yesterday to retrieve the thumbscrews from the grill that consistently drop down into that cavity. And that little screw or nut you dropped from the engine compartment down onto the chassis crossmember? Using one of these things is way easier than crawling under the car. As for the dirt and stuff, the only thing I can think of is to blow it out.
  4. 1968 Road & Track Road Test of the BMW 2002

    Have you guys seen the current issue (December, 2017) of Car and Driver? There is a good article on page 14 in that issue where they call the 2002 "The birth of the sports sedan". Scott
  5. Where Can An M10 Turbo Kit Be Found?

    Dude, I would not even attempt to do that and I'm a pretty experienced restorer. This is not something you can do cheaply or as a DIY as one wrong setting or adjustment can cook your engine or blow it up if you over-rev. Personally, I think you would be far better off buying a later turbo engine that already has the electronics and adapting it or at least finding a later engine that is more commonly turbocharged. We are on a site with a whole lot of BMW 2002 experience. Let's wait to see if anyone has done what you want to do. Maybe somebody has. :-)
  6. Probably one of the 4 or 5 best colors for a 2002. Nice conservative color that does not scream "I'm a car from the 70's!!" like some of the lighter colors. (Nothing wrong with that if that is what you want.) Not too flashy but it is still an unusual color by past or current standards. Beautiful tone, but when you look at an Agave car, you look at the CAR, not the PAINT. Translation: the color is dark enough that the body has to be straight and ripple free. However, it is much better at hiding dirt than a light color or black....if you ever think you will let it get dirty.
  7. Trim delete logic?

    You may recall that I have said a few times that I'd like to get some opinions on some of the restoration items on my '75 from the gang here. I've been seeing a lot of cars with the belt line trim or the door bumper trim or in some cases both deleted. I get that some people think it makes the car look more up-to-date, but the door guard trim at least serves a very important function. Is there any other reason to remove the trim other than aesthetics? Are any of the trim pieces no longer available? Is it jut too expensive to replace? Are they difficult to reinstall correctly? Does removing the trim eliminate visual alignment issues? (my guess is that filling the body holes is probably about the same as or maybe more than the cost of the trim pieces, right?) I am about 99% sure I'll be reinstalling or replacing all the trim on my car, but if there is a significant reason other than personal reference, I'll reconsider. So if you removed trim, why did you do it? Thanks, Scott
  8. Where Can An M10 Turbo Kit Be Found?

    I've seen several on eBay but can't vouch for them in any way. Here is an earlier discussion on the forum: Complete Turbo kit? And here is a quick scan of eBay: Turbo stuff on eBay. Good luck and let us know what you find! Scott
  9. I've actually been reconsidering pulling the motor because of all the oil sludge. I'm probably going ot drop the whole rear end and pulling the motor would let me deal with the shift-slop, too. Dropping it with the front suspension would make a lot of sense since that would allow me to clean everything. I'd have to build a sled and my wife will be really mad when I tell her she can't park in the garage over the winter. :-) Oh, and I'm probably just going to pull all the A/C stuff. The key item is the vented console. Lot's of options, right? One thing at a time, though. I have to get used to the idea.
  10. I was finally in a position to set an entire day aside to work on the 2002 today. (Well, really about 4 hours.) The first item on the agenda was removing the reactor/exhaust manifold and installing a new header as part of removing the emissions controls. I will try to make an article out of this emissions control removal process. But not today because, you know, gauntlets. Today I discovered 3 things: 1) The Previous owner or his mechanic tried to remove the manifold/reactor before. 2 of the 4 upper bolts were actually loose and all 4 lower bolts that you access from under the car were stripped. I should have known something was up when all of the nuts to the heat shields came off so easily. 2) You can't get a pair of vice-grips onto the nuts under the manifold because there isn't enough room. Why? Because my car has A/C and the huge compressor sits under the manifold. 3) You can't remove the compressor without removing a lot of other components. The compressor bolts are not accessible and the compressor bracket bolts attach immediately behind the fan. A couple of compressor bracket bolts were missing, meaning I'm following in the PO's (or his bad mechanic's) footsteps. 4) Normally, to get to the water pump for example, you can pull the radiator, remove the grill and go through the front of the car with a long ratchet extension. I thought maybe I'd do this since I have to replace the water pump anyway. Nope, the A/C condenser and an auxiliary fan sit in front of the radiator. So one way or another, I'm going to have to pretty much remove the entire A/C system from the car before I can finish with the manifold/reactor/header. Oh, and I think I mentioned earlier how bad the fluid leaks are. I spent a full day cleaning the engine from above, but I completely neglected to get underneath. There is anywhere from 1/8 of an inch to 1/2 of an inch of congealed oil covering the bottom half of the engine and all of the front suspension components. Now it looks like I'm going to have to clean everything by hand and I won't know where the leaks are until I get a few more parts off the car and the block cleaned up. Here's a shot showing the A/C compressor and the lack of space to get anything bigger than a box wrench into the space by the manifold. No way a pair of Vice Grips will fit up there. Note the missing bracket bolt from somebody's prior attempt to remove it. Here are the compressor mounting bolts up by the fan. Here's the A/C condenser and auxiliary fan in front of the radiator. And this image pretty much sums up how far I got today. Heat shields off, a couple of connections off, that's it. I put the plug wires back on to avoid damaging them. So I did not get as far as I had hoped today. That's pretty normal. There is one small silver lining to all this. While I was under the car, I found the Weber air cleaner cover C-clip that the previous owner lost a long time ago. It was embedded in about 1/4 inch of oil sludge. If the engine had been clean, this would have bounced out ages ago.
  11. The OZ wheels I ordered arrived from Budapest. I thought they were coming from Vienna, Austria, but I guess somebody was confused about that whole World War One Austria-Hungary thing. These wheels were packed really really well and they look awesome. I am going to have a hard time deciding which set to use on the car, these or the euro weaves. I still need to take the weaves over to my reconditioning guy. The weaves came with a set of tires, so I'll mount tires on two OZ and two reconditioned weaves to see what they look like. I'm also going to have to spend some time figuring out what spacers I'm going to need, if any. Image of the wheels below.
  12. Header suggestion, if any at all

    Vicleanoardo1, Yes, the IE header looks more like a competition header, but I think they say it isn't a true comp header. Although the tube lengths are longer on the IE, none are equal. The TEP header is more along the lines of stock manifold and there is less overall volume. There are also a few differences with the welds, flanges and internal butts. Although the TEP welds look better, I'm told the difference is negligible. Both send cylinders 1 and 4 into the upper downpipe and 2 and 3 into the lower one. The IE header certainly looks cool, but I don't know if it is twice-as-expensive cool. When I compare these to stock manifolds, these are much better in terms of overall flow.
  13. How to eliminate hard start/fumes in trunk

    I just found another source of air entering the fuel line. It is the point where the hard plastic line from the tank enters the engine compartment and is attached to a flexible rubber hose. It's at about the middle of the firewall. I was able to pull the not-original cloth-covered fuel line right off the hose there. I'll try to get a decent image.
  14. Eurotech, My 49 state '75 has a different reactor/exhaust manifold than yours does as my air-pump connection is in the front of the manifold like Conserv's. I read someplace that some are in front and some are in back but I don't know if that will impact the cold-air diverter routing. The remnants of the hard "warm air" diverter vent pipe to the carburetor starts just below the manifold behind the engine. I had an "extra heat shield" that must have held the flexible pipe. You missed the free give-away of my diverter on this site by about a month. Scott
  15. I'm finally starting on the emissions controls removal on my '75 and....pffft....what's with all these heat shields? I removed two from above the manifold and it looks like there is a third I will need to remove from underneath. I also have an A/C compressor in the way. Is there a more direct path to the lower 4 manifold nuts than manuevering around things from underneath? It does not look possible to get to those nuts from above, but I might be missing something. And since the lower heat shield is attached to the chassis and not the engine, is it worth it to put that one back? Thanks, Scott