Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

188 Excellent

1 Follower

About Hodgepodge

  • Birthday November 18

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array
  • Interests Array

Recent Profile Visitors

2,260 profile views
  1. Hello, Do you still have the air cleaner housing? I'm at 15317.
  2. Very nice car. I'm guessing you will get a lot of interest at the PVGP next weekend.
  3. That is an awesome list! Thanks!
  4. Can somebody please translate this into HP?
  5. I do have the leakdown equipment but want to see something decent compression-wise before I do a leakdown test. I'll post here when I take another run at the compression test with a better starter and maybe a little oil in the cylinders, which should be in a few days.
  6. Good points. I was thinking that starter revolution RPMs don't have a big impact but perhaps they do since we are down to, what 150-200 PM with a starter? For this engine, the starter/battery set up is not cranking at "normal" starter speeds even with the plugs out, maybe 100 RPM. I have a new starter in a box and can find a new battery. That should resolve that issue. It sounds like a little oil in the cylinders will also help. I didn't sdo that initially because that's usually how you tell if the issue is rings or valves. I will try it though since the cyinder wals only saw oil today for the first time in over a year. Thanks! I'm really not optimistic that the engine does not have issues, though and it seems sacriligous to put an un-rebuilt engine back into a completely stripped and rebuilt car. I'll take small steps on this... I'm several months away from putting the engine back into the car.
  7. My Polaris project car is coming along slowly and I am finally beginning to address the engine and drivetrain. I am planning to at least partially rebuild the engine, but I did not do compression or leakdown tests before pulling the motor out of the car. The engine has been sitting on a stand for about a year and it turns over reasonably well, but I'm not sure if running compression tests on a cold engine that has been sitting for so long even makes sense. I gave it a shot anyway. After letting the engine turn over for a minute or so to let oil go where it needed to, I tested all four cylinders and got 75 pounds or so from 3 cylinders, 60 from number 1. I'm using an old battery and an old starter, but I don't think crank speed should have an impact on compression. Again, this is from a cold, dead, out-of-car engine. My other 2002 has to be warm for compression to reach peak numbers, but they are not this low when the car is cold. I can do a leakdown test but I don't think it makes sense to try until I'm sure the numbers would be marginally accurate. The car ran OK when I took it apart but every gasket and seal on it was shot after 10 years of only being run once a month or so (as you can see from the gunk that remains on the engine...). Does anyone have any suggestions on an optimal compression/leakdown testing process with the engine out of the car? ....or should I just pull the head and try to assess everything visually? All reasonable ideas are welcome. Thanks, Scott
  8. OMG I googled it. Here is something I can't unsee. Not a perfect solution for BMW 2002 dashboards but compared to the rest of the car, this does not look impossibly difficult.
  9. It arrived 2 days ago and will be a while before it is installed. It is going in this....
  10. +1 on the dash restoration sequence. It would make an exellent tutorial considering how many cracked dashes there are out there....
  11. Yes, but not really my point. I'm really just trying to figure out what a "good number" is for a reasonably well built M10. Most people don't have a stock, single solex M10 anymore. I like your stacks, BTW. Hoping to build a garage soon so I can have 1 working bay and 4 or 5 stacking bays. Then the driveway can be for cars that can get wet. :-)
  12. I just bit the bullet and bought a 5-speed for the Polaris. I already have one in the Chamonix and it does make a difference on the highway. I almost don't want to do this since both of these companies do a LOT to support the 2002 community, but inquiring minds want to know.... When it comes to instlaling a Getrag 245 5-speed in your 2002, there are a few things that need to be fabricated or purchased. Purchasing kits is the easiest way. Blunttech has had a 5-speed conversion kit for a little while and now they have the "ultimate 5-speed conversion kit" that includes the shifter assembly, a transmission mount and a longer speedometer cable. Ireland Engineering also has a kit but they sell the transmission mount and speed cable seperately as well as other components. The Blunttech unit has some creative design behind it while the IE version looks like it is based on a shortened stock shifter extension. Blunttech Ultimate 5-speed conversion kit IE shift plate for 5-speed conversion. IE rear crossmember for 5-speed conversion Simple question: Who has useed these and what is your impression?

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.