Hodgepodge

Kugelfischer
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About Hodgepodge

  • Birthday November 18

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Western Pennsylvania, 15317
  • Interests Car restoration, house restoration, boating, robotics and animatronics, 3d printing,

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  1. My youngest daughter is graduating from high school this year and her grad party is in 2 weeks. My wife has been working on tent rentals, catering, etc. and unfortunately, I promised her that the 2002 would be out of the garage by then. I honestly thought it would be at the paint shop. Well, I explained in a prior posst that my scheduleis way off and I'm not going ot have this car ready for Oktoberfesdt/PVGP, so I had to get the car battened down for a trip to the warehouse where I keep a couple of other cars. Yesterday, I attached a couple of 2x6 boards to the pylons of the dolly to make them sturdier for transport. I also installed a handful of through-bolt eye-bolts into the dolly to use as tie down points. I was unable to secure a regular flat car trailer, so I decided to try to use a U-haul 6x12 trailer with the loading ramp. I knew this would probably be a major challenge, but I thought the experiment was worth the $35 rental fee for the day. I can't use a regular U-haul car hauler because the wheels of my dolly are not wide enough to fit on the ramps or tracks. Winch Solution: I bought a small ATV winch from Harbor Freight for $56 (with the always happening 20% off web-coupon) and mounted it to the front of my car dolly. I'll add some pictures of that when I get a chance as I think it is pretty cool. The thing has a remote key fob, so you don't need wires. I set a car battery in the 2002's battery tray and hooked the winch up directly to the battery with a fuse. Now whatever trailer I use, I will always be able to load and unload the car! There are a couple of major considerations when using a U-haul trailer. 1. The gate is not the full width of the trailer. The gate opening is 58 inches wide and the "fence" at the gate is 27 inches tall (it is taller around the rest of the trailer). The frame rail of a 2002 is about 53 inches wide. but the doors are wider than 58 inches wide. By pure dumb luck I built my dolly to be about 27 inches tall. Even so, with the angled fence and an inclined ramp, I had initially a little over an inch of clearance to the frame rail on both sides when loading and managed to scrape the car slightly where the lower trim would be if it were installed. Once the car was in the trailer, there was moderate clearance on all sides except the back (see below). Raise the tongue more (see below) to get more clearance at the gate. If you have a dolly that sets the car lower than about 27 inches, you will not be able to use this type of U-Haul trailer. 2. The bed of a U-Haul trailer is CORRUGATED STEEL! It is not flat! The disadvantage of this did not fully dawn on me until I was ready to unload the car and could not get the swivel castors to rotate so I could unload it. In the end, I used a floor jack to lift each end of the dolly and turn the wheels around by hand. I would HIGHLY recommend getting some plywod to place on the bed of the trailer if you decide to use one. 3. The tongue jack only jacks the tongue to a little above level. The issue here is that you want the ramp to be as in-line with the trailer bed as possible to avoid bottoming out on the lip of the trailer and you want as much clearance as possible around that gate fence. I happened to have a bunch of 2x8x8 blocks I made as jack-stand extensions and I threw 3 under the tongue jack to make high enough when unloading. 4. The trailer isn't long enough. I thought I measured my car and that it would fit on a 12 foot trailer without bumpes. Apparently not, as there was about 8 inches sticking out the back when I get the car all the way in with about 4 inches of space up front. I did not think to measure the trailer but suspect that it is not really 12 feet. Fortunately, I had some huge sheets of foam insulation and I just tied the (counterbalanced) trailer ramp to the trailer and put the pads behind the rear lower sill of the car. 5. The tongue of the trailer extends 8 feet beyond the trailer to the hitch. With that huge tongue, the whole rig including the truck was nearly 40 feet long. This made maneuvering the truck to my garage at the rear of the house very difficult. I drove on the lawn. ALOT. My wife nearly killed me when she saw the damage I did. Hey, it's grass! And it is growing season! I'm sure it will be fine for the grad partyy in two weeks! :-) The trailer had plenty of tie downs and I was able to secure tiedowns from the eyelets I installed on the dolly to the trailer very easily. Once loaded, the car didn't move an inch. The 2002 is now resting peacefully in the warehouse space where it will probably sit until mid-June when I can start working on it again. I'm already working on other ways to get the car back into my garage that do not involve a U-Haul trailer. Thanks for reading! I hope this was useful for you! Scott
  2. Today I finally got a chance to break down the front subframe that I pulled a couple of months ago. Went fairly smoothly except for a broken bolt in each strut (looks like they have a drain design that traps dirt and moisture inside and promotes corrosion, particularly on one particular bolt closest to the drain/vent....) The front bearing/disc brake design is also a little frustrating, but still easier than changing the inboard rotors on my old Alfa GTV.. Anyway, I've broken everything down except for the driver's side motor mount. This is a square mount but there is still only one bolt holding it to the subframe. The stud just spins inside the rubber mount. Is there a magic way to resolve this or do I just have to cut or grind the mount down to the stud and put a pair of vice-grips on it? Thanks in advance for your insight! Scott
  3. 1558504

    Beautiful car and absolutely amazing build!
  4. 2367660

    Vehicle is currently in the process of a complete restoration. I purchased it from the daughter of the original owner.
  5. First, the good news. I shipped my brake booster off to Power Brake Exchange in San Jose/Bell Gardens and Louis turned it around in about a week. (http://www.pwrbrake.com/ ) I have not had a chance to test it yet, of course, but oit looks great! Here is a before image. BRake fluid had stripped a lot of the paint off and there was a layer of crud, of course. And here is an after shot. They dismantled, soda blasted and repainted the unit. The only things they did not do is mask off the studs and replace the bellows, which is OK since I can't even find a number for the bellows and am assuming it is NLA. The price for this service was somewhat less than the other vendors I found. The site mentions a core, but you have to send them your core to rebuild. I am certain this is the unit I sent them. http://www.pwrbrake.com/inventory/search/yr/1975/make/bmw/mdl/2002/smdl/base/l/2.0/cyl/4/ OK, now the bad news. I have had a few setbacks including an odd medical one (called Fever of unknown origin) that put me out for about 3 weeks, as well as a delay on one of my larger revenue generating projects. I had expected to have this car out of paint by now and be working to rebuild it almost full time. Clearly, that hasn't happened and I'm dedicating about 110% to the other project so I can get it done. As a result, there is no way I'll be bringing this car to The Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix/Oktoberfest in July. I will have at least one other non-BMW there and I will probably bring a different BMW, but I was really hoping to have a 2002 there for the 50th anniversary, especially since I signed up and committed to having a 2002. I'm half-tempted to buy another "before" 2002 to bring and am actually looking for another car, but am not optimistic. I'll be wrapped up with that other project by early June, so I'll be back on this project then. Who knows, this may be a good thing. My engine rebuilder told me it would be 3-months before he could get my engine back so I was only going to have the head done and had planned to do all the gaskets myself. This might be an opportunity to get the engine rebuilt properly and brought up to the standard of the rest of rest of the car. Take care and thanks for reading!
  6. First, the good news. I shipped my brake booster off to Power Brake Exchange in San Jose/Bell Gardens and Louis turned it around in about a week. (http://www.pwrbrake.com/ ) I have not had a chance to test it yet, of course, but oit looks great! Here is a before image. BRake fluid had stripped a lot of the paint off and there was a layer of crud, of course. And here is an after shot. They dismantled, soda blasted and repainted the unit. The only things they did not do is mask off the studs and replace the bellows and vacuum nipple, which is OK since they are in good shape and I can't even find a number for them and am assuming they is NLA. The price for this service was somewhat less than the other vendors I found. The site mentions a core, but you have to send them your core to rebuild. I am certain this is the unit I sent them. http://www.pwrbrake.com/inventory/search/yr/1975/make/bmw/mdl/2002/smdl/base/l/2.0/cyl/4/ OK, now the bad news. I have had a few setbacks including an odd medical one (called Fever of unknown origin) that put me out for about 3 weeks, as well as a delay on one of my larger revenue generating projects. I had expected to have this car out of paint by now and be working to rebuild it almost full time. Clearly, that hasn't happened and I'm dedicating about 110% to the other project so I can get it done. As a result, there is no way I'll be bringing this car to The Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix/Oktoberfest in July. I will have at least one other non-BMW there and I will probably bring a different BMW, but I was really hoping to have a 2002 there for the 50th anniversary, especially since I signed up and committed to having a 2002. I'm half-tempted to buy another "before" 2002 to bring and am actually looking for another car, but am not optimistic. I'll be wrapped up with that other project by early June, so I'll be back on this project then. Who knows, this may be a good thing. My engine rebuilder told me it would be 3-months before he could get my engine back so I was only going to have the head done and had planned to do all the gaskets myself. This might be an opportunity to get the engine rebuilt properly and brought up to the standard of the rest of rest of the car. Take care and thanks for reading!
  7. Want to replace my momo steering wheel

    There are some really functional wheels out there and some really beautiful ones and sometimes they are both! Personally, I love the Nardi wheels and have one on my Alfa. Ultra classic. But if you already have a Momo hub, just pull the ugly wheel off and put a Momo Retro for a classic look or something like a Prototypo for a more aggresive wheel. Somebody already did the hard part, which is make the hub work. Just change the wheel! I know a lot of people have put later BMW wheels on their 2002s, and that's fine, but that's not something I would want to do.
  8. Front and Rear Suspension Rebuild

    Niiiiiiiice! I can't wait to get mine done.
  9. I also received the complete set of brake lines you sent me but have not yet had a chance to open the box. I'll throw a note out there on those when I do! Thanks, Scott
  10. Hi John, I have been watching your restoration. Pretty much ground up but I'm trying to do as much of the work as I can myself. I started with a bretty good car but there are still plenty of challenges! https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/300-this-should-be-fun-a-1975-2002-restoration-diary/ Still very much in the "before" stages.
  11. Conkitchen, the price includes shipping.
  12. Well, I've been a little under the weather here AND the weather has been absolutely horrible so I have not been able to get much done. However, I thought I'd provide an update on the firewall pad I ordered from Afton Design. The thing arrived really well packaged and it looks TERRIFIC! It appears to be made out of some kind of high temp silicone and includes the shielding that I think is intended to reduce exhaust heat from the later thermal reactors. The original reactor shielding was a stamped piece of metal, but my reactor is gone anyway, so this is fine. (That old shielding from my pad is the only piece that came off of my car intact). Since the pad is silicone, it is very flexible, so I re-wrapped my new firewall pad and put it right back into the box until I can fit it on the painted car. I want to warn you this thing isn't cheap, but it is a very high quality piece and the price includes terrific packaging plus shipping! Just click the "Shop now" button on Facebook and don't freak out when it takes you to a Paypal page. Afton Design on Facebook Take care! Scott
  13. 289 +51 front?? The reference was related to the front wheels. NYNick, I was not referring to these cars. I've done a lot of trailer bearings, especially pressurized boat trailer bearings. You have to pull and repack them every so often just in case they lose pressure and get wet (especially wet with salt water). Most of those, once you get the bearing buddies and covers off, are the screw-down and back-off kind. That's what I was referring to. I haven't done bearings on any of my newer BMWs, but I just looked in my bentley books and see the the E90-E93 rear axle torque is 184-310 ft-lbs and the E60-61 rear torque is 310 ft lbs. I still have an E39 book and it says 300 ft-lbs for the rear. Front is 110 on the E9x and 85 on the E6x. I have the Haynes and Chilton and a couple of other service manuals for the 2002 that I kep by my bed and just ordered the workshop manual. (Sadly, nothing like the Bentley manuals for 2002s so far...). I was just too stupid to think about it and look before I went to remove the rear outer axle. This 2002 is showing 129k miles, TMU. Given that I'm restoring/replacing almost everything on this car and am refinishing/powdercoating all the subframe parts, I don't think it makes sense to skip the bearings. It is possible, though, that these bearings might beat me. We'll see.
  14. So I'm in the process of taking my rear subframe apart and, of course, tripped over the torque thing on th erear crown nuts. I've got some beefier tools on th eway to tackle this, but I'm looking beyond that to the front end and am a little troubled. The last time I took a front end completley apart was on a Triumph TR-3 30 years ago and I borrowed the tools from a then-mentor. I don't remember much about the tools he loaned me. So in other words...I'm pretty close to clueless on this. In terms of tools to pull and reassemble the rear and front suspension and steering, what am I going to need and where should I get it? I see the 3-jaw puller set from HF appears to be a dud and I don't know what else I should ot should not get from them. ....or should I just try to borrow/rent the stuff from my local auto parts store? I do not know if I will be pulling another front suspension completley apart any time soon, so I'm looking for the most cost effective solutions, but probably not home made pipe, big washer, big bolts and nuts solutions. If someobody could outline the tools needed to dismantle and reassemble axles, bearings, links, bushings, and seals (or point me to another thread if it already exists), I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Scott
  15. This tighten and then back-off (usually by one cotter-pin hole in my experience) is what I'm used to. Done a lot of trailer and other axles that way. 200 foot pounds....still trying to comprehend that....