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About Hodgepodge

  • Birthday November 18

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Western Pennsylvania
  • Interests Car restoration, boating, robotics and animatronics, 3d printing,
  1. Pulling the engine...where is the DIY guide?

    Scoob, thanks for the steps. You included several things that were missing from my puzzle. I kind of like the use the engine hoist to lift the enigne/subframe idea instead of jacking from below. I also like the idea of removing the struts to keep things more manageable. Thanks!
  2. Pulling the engine...where is the DIY guide?

    Hi Simeon, Thanks for the info. I have several hard and softcover shop manuals but they are kind of old school, describing some things in detail and others in general, often expecting you to have BMW-specific tools as well as a car lift, transmission lift and engine hoist, with far too few relavant images. (re-installation is the reverse of removal.....) I'm the type to really like the abridged Simeon instructions above: "Just keep disconnecting and undoing stuff until the engine comes out." That is, after all, what many of us do. Here's the kind of stuff I'm looking for: I do not have an engine hoist but will get one if out the top makes the most sense (hoists and levelers are surprisingly cheap at Harbor Freight here). The reason I'm leaning that way is that I want the car to be a roller so I can take it to media blasting and paint. I also need to clean-up and replace parts on the entire suspension system, but had planned to do that one corner, or perhaps one end at a time. Now, if dropping everything out the bottom is really easiest, then I suppose I can do that, pull the engine off the subframe, clean up everything in front, put the subframe/suspension back and work on the engine while the car is at paint. Or, in the whole-lotta-work department, I could build a rolling jig, pull both ends of the car out and send the body to paint on the jig. So many damn choices are creating paralysis. Ha ha, finished by July. Sure..... :-) If I drop everything out of the bottom, there are some pretty nice jigs and jackstand rigs that I see images of here in the forum. This article, for example, is awesome. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/67892-motor-drop-and-plant/ However, as wonderful as Bill's article is, he still has a lot more equipment than I do and a lot more room. Looks like he's using a motorcycle jack to get the motor out and back in, for example. I see other articles showing the engine going back in with just a floor jack but it looks pretty scary. I have a lot more to take out before I even make a decision on removing the engine. But I do have a lot of new parts going into this car and having a less than clean and tidy engine compartment and underside in an otherwise restored car is likely to be something I'll regret. For those who've read this far, if you have seen any interesting lift or drop jigs or configurations, please send me the links. Thanks a bunch for your help. It is much appreciated! Scott
  3. OK, I'm trying to research pulling the engine and transmission and have found a lot of bits and pieces. Engine with gear box, engine without gear box, lift the engine, drop the front subframe, etc. The problem I'm having is that a surprising number of older references, links and a guide or two are simply are no longer available on the site. There was a host change or something around 2011-13 and links to "guides" and other things from before then are "not found" I'll go look through my old school shop manuals, but can anyone point me to a good reference? For now I'm thinking that IF I want to do this, I want to disconnect the tranny (to drop seprately) and pull the engine out of the top. I've already got all the ancillary parts off the engine except for the distributor. Thanks, Scott
  4. Hi, Let me know when those pads are ready. I'll buy one!
  5. Brake booster rebuild

    Thanks Dionk and Einspritz. I called pwrbrake and spoke to Louis. They can rebuild my original booster in house for the relatively low price on their site plus shipping. I think I'll try them.
  6. Question. Is there a breakaway point on a 2002 mirror? At the adjustment ball perhaps? I was going to suggest That looks terrific. I was just getting ready to ask if there is a breakaway point on these mirrors in case it were to get smashed so damage to the door is minimized. I think the rivets solution probably creates a pretty good breakaway point!
  7. I think nutserts have their place, but I've encountered a problem or two where they have been used and they don;t allow for any movement. The PO for my Alfa used several dozen nutserts, often in places where a simple clip-style speednut should have gone. He put them in places that were pretty dumb, like the oval gas-tank hold-down slots and a couple of places on the transmission cover. No idea why he used these instead of speednuts there. The risk with nutserts is that if they are mounted near a lip and they tear out, they may take a piece of the lip with them. 4 of the 8 nutserts on the gas tank tore out and I had to have the lip welded (with the tank out) so I could go back to speed nuts and re-secure the tank. Again, I'm not opposed to them and think they work great in certain situations, but they should not be used wherever tear-out is a risk.
  8. So....if the firewall pad is backordered, there are a LOT of parts that attach on top of it. Not good!
  9. Thanks! I ordered the high temp version of this on Amazon.
  10. Nomad, Yes, quite a bit. I renovate houses and cars as long time hobbies. Both have their headaches and triumphs. Trying to get this one ready for tyhe Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix in July. One of the issues with pulling the engine is that I am truly doing all this work myself and I do not have the heavy lifting (or dropping) components that would make it easy, just a lot of jackstands and a floor jack. I also only have one spot in the house garage for this car and there is a nearly infinite amount of other stuff to do (plus a couple of other cars I'm working on...). Still, I do realize that right now, with the engine and tranny only attached to the car at the mount points and the guibo, would probably be the best time to pull it if I do decide to. The front subframe is a greasy mess too and having it all out would make lide a lot easier. I'm just going to keep cleaning and see what kind of success I have not pulling it, and if I'm not happy, I'll go ahead and pull it.
  11. All, thanks for the great responses! I menat to put "factory" in quotes since what I really meant was "original". Same with the Mercedes of the timeframe. This is/was the Behr system, I think. OK, AC hoses go but cap-off the evaporator. The whole mechanism inside the car looks pristine so I will likely be reusing it. Any suggestions on where to get the caps, or is this just a put-a-balloon-over-it thing. Simple Green or similar and unwrap the harness to clean it. OK. I've got plenty of Simple Green. What color was that wrap originally? Blue? Black? Suggestions on where to get a suitable replacement wrap? The heater hoses terminate under what would be the wiper valance on most cars (between inner and outer firewalls) and not in the passenger compartment. OK. I just went out and moved the protective covers I've got up there and confirmed. Excellent. Easy to replace without messing with the heater box. Sounds like replacing the brake lines is a good idea and in the grand scheme of things, just one more fairly involved step. Is that IE set a good way to go or are there better alternatives? The firewall padding can be removed and replaced with the engine in place. I've replaced this stuff on other cars, but it was up higher on the firewall. I see an original part number 51487450110 that is still available with a best price of $193.34. Is this what others have used? I want to keep it looking as original as possible. Other suggestions? I'll check the other padding/insulation as I get further along. Thanks again for the responses. Please feel free to add more!
  12. Hi All, I'm in the process of cleaning years of oil and fluid sludge from the engine and engine compartment and have a couple of what might be pretty basic questions. I mentioned before that this was the grimiest engine compartment I've ever had, worse than any of the british cars I have restored. I am still trying to keep the engine in the car during this process and am also trying to do pretty much everything except media blasting, powdercoating and body paint myself. So here are the questions: 1. This car had an original "factory" A/C system installed that was in working condition. I am not planning on reinstalling the original system because of the boat anchor compressor, but I'm not sure about the hoses that run along the right fender through the firewall to the evaporator. I have not yet started to dismantle the inside of the car. I just need to figure out what to do with these hoses. Cap them? Cut them? They are sealed pretty nicely against the firewall. Here's the actual question. If I install a more modern A/C in this car, will there ever be a need for these, or should I just cut them and remove them? Image below. 2. The wiring harness on the passenger side is thoroughly soaked with oil/brake fluid. In addition, I will need to detach the harness from everywhere in order to clean/paint, and I need figure out a best place for it while doing the cleaning and painting. Questions: What is the best stuff to use to clean/degrease the harness (or do I need to unwrap and re-wrap it) and where is the best place to coil the harness as I am cleaning and painting? It does not look like I can push it all through the fender well hole under the fuse box, but that would be my first guess. Image below. 3. I've got all new cooling system hoses and will be installing those later as I put everything back together, but those hoses don't include the heater hoses that feed through the firewall to the heater box. Seems kind of dumb to replace all of the hoses except the ones going to the heater box, but I am not quite sure what's involved in getting to them under the dash. The heater on this car worked fine when I tested it so no rebuild is needed. Are the hoses easy to get to/replace or is this a major effort? (Hose replacement and valve repair was a nightmare on my E12, E28 and E34 BMWs.) Doesd it make sense to just cut them at the firewall and replace them once I get under the dash? Again, I have not yet started to take the interior apart and it's been 20 years since my last 2002 so I thought I would ask. Image of those hoses below. (note original fuel line and brake booster vacuum line....) 4. I am going to replace all of the moving components in the brake system so the system is as-new. I have a new master cylinder to replace the one that is leaking, and am planning to have the booster rebuilt. I also have all new calipers, pistons, discs and drums and new stainless-wrapped flexible lines from Ireland Engineering. But I originally was going to keep all of the hard brake lines unless I find something broken or crushed. But now I'm reconsidering that. Ireland Engineering sells a complete cunifer hardline replacement kit that looks pretty interesting. Two questions here. Since I'm replacing everything else, does replacing all the lines make sense, or does my orignal assumption that the hardlines are not likely to fail hold true? And if I decide to replace them, how difficult is it to do with the engine in the car? 5. OK, last question. The insulating foam on the firewall is in pretty bad shape. Can I get it off and replace it with the engine still in the car, or should i just leave it alone? Sorry hat was so long. More questions than I thought..... As always, I appreciate your thoughts and suggestions. Scott
  13. Brake booster rebuild

    Doink, old post but I see you are still active on the site....where did you get your brake booster rebuilt?
  14. Searching around the Internet, I see a lot of other classic car part suppliers that have horsehar pads and many are as large as, or larger than BMW seats. Mercedes, for example. So it might be possible to buy a set for another car and have the pads reworked. I am not yet at the interior portion of my restoration program, but I will probably experiment a little whan that time comes. I've got new covers so it will have to happen.
  15. 1970 2002 Dearborn, MI

    Won the bid! Holy crap it looks like you got a great deal! Please keep us posted. Where are you? I use a very reputable trucking company if you are interested. I also use a good inspection company. (I buy a lot of cars....) PM me if you want that info.