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  1. Simeon Shazzam!!! I'm living proof of how easy it is to overlook the simplest and easiest solution to a problem. It turns out that the capable guy who installed the M20 engine in my 2002 overlooked the fact that PermaCool, the company which supplied the electric fan, always ships their fans out as puller arrangements expecting that they would be mounted on the engine side of the rad core to pull cool air through the core into the engine compartment. With no space in front of the M20 engine in my 02, the new fan got mounted on the front side of the core but remained in the puller arrangement. So, whenever the fan came on it was immediately pulling hot air out of the engine compartment and through the rad core actually heating the coolant. Further, the force of the air coming out the front prevented much cooler air from entering the core, even at speed thus my overheating. Switched the wiring yesterday, fan rotates the opposite direction, problem solved! Thanks for reminding me of what turned out to be a reasonably simple solution.
  2. Steve Thanks for the award and sorry for my mistake...I'm old (75+), technically illiterate and not very familiar with the protocol for this website. As you suggested, I'll try a new thread for my issue. Regards, Jim
  3. The M20 in my 1976 02 with a 323 radiator and electric fan runs great and can stay cool all day even when hammered...the 6 pulls great, sounds great and has the smoothness common to I6 engines. However, at city speeds in traffic the temp gauge immediately begins to climb until the temp gauge is almost buried...by that time I'm home I unfortunately have to shut it off just before it boils over. My question is should the 323 radiator with an electric fan be enough cooling capacity to keep the M20 cool or do I need more radiator or more fan or both? I'm a bit uncomfortable that there may not be enough space under the hood with this engine for the air from the fan to flow through the radiator properly...since the engine stays cool at highway speeds, perhaps I just need more velocity through the radiator. I know the fan is working and is set to suck air into the rad. What radiator are others using with M20 conversions and does this problem sound unique?
  4. I would also be interested in the trunk panels.
  5. I'm looking for a replacement handle for the handbrake in my 1976 2002. With an M20 engine and 5 speed transmission, the centerline of the shift lever has moved a bit to the rear. I can modify the console to keep the shift lever centered in the shift surround but by then, the button on the end of the handbrake handle contacts the back end of the console...guaranteed to pinch your thumb when you release the brake. The current handle is 16" long from the centerline of the pin holding it in place to the end of the button and the operation of this cable system is fairly simple. But I can't find a cable operated replacement handle in the 10'-12" length range. Any ideas?
  6. Harry Please email pictures. In particular send pics of both sides of all rubber accordion mounting studs. Unless you tell me otherwise, I will assume that the studs are all in good condition and solidly connected to the metal plates inside the accordion and that both of the metal plates are included with all four accordions.. Closeup pictures of bumpers and accordions would be helpful. Jim
  7. Any chance that you have any of the very ugly rubber bumper accordions with the mounting bolts still present for a 1976 2002?
  8. Does anybody still have both a left and a right front rubber accordion for a 1976 2002?
  9. After getting my 1976 2002 with an M30 engine & a 5 speed out of storage with the objective of cleaning it up and having some fun with it, I encountered two electrical glitches which I can't resolve. The headlights work with the turn signal flasher so I know both the bulbs are OK but I can't get them to come on with the headlight switch. With the key on run, the left side parking light and rear taillight come on (see #2) but not the headlights. I replaced the low beam fuse just in case but then checked the fuse holder and discovered that there is no power to the hot side of the fuse holder. Perhaps a related problem but when I pull out the headlight switch with the key on, the 8A fuse for the right side parking and tail light immediately blows. The left side stays on but the right side fuse fails as soon as the light switch is pulled out. I've gone through 4-5 8A fuses trying to locate were this circuit is grounding out but just can't find it. I haven't done anything to car since I drove it last a few years ago and all of the lights worked at that time. It has been stored indoors with absolutely no indication of any critters causing any damage during the storage period...all of the critter traps were still set. I've checked the bulbs in the right side parking light, marker light, tail light and license plate light and they all appear to be OK. The car is fun to drive...in the daylight! It would be fun if I could get it out after dark!
  10. Yes, there is a second set of wires connected to the top of the fuel level sensor which was removed in order to get the pump out of the tank. I connected an external 12V source to the two connectors in the image and got no response from the pump...no noise, no clicking, no nothing! This leads me to believe that my problem is with this pump. But I can't locate a replacement unit. Simeon said to contact Blunt to get a replacement...I'm new to this forum and have no idea how to contact Blunt.
  11. JimK/Simeon I connected a known external 12V source directly to the two contacts on the pump and got no response...wouldn't this confirm that this pump has failed? I'll have a helper later today so I can check to see if there is 12V at the pump when the key is turned. Simeon suggested that this pump is from a later car. But without the pump part numbers providing a source for a replacement, any thoughts on where I can locate a new pump? Any ideas on what model/year this pump is from? I'll worry about the heating issue AFTER i get the darn thing started! Jim
  12. I purchased my 1976 2002 new and a few years ago had a BMW expert install a rebuilt M20 engine from a donor 325. When the car runs, it runs great...sounds good and lots of torque. But it has been in storage for the last few years because I have a cooling issue. The engine remains cool at highway speed but overheats quickly at slow speeds or in traffic. The electric fan seems to be operating correctly but appears to be inadequate to keep things cool at anything other than highway speeds...I'm still searching for a solution for this issue. But, my immediate problem is that the car won't start! It's been in inside storage for 4 years so I first drained the fuel tank, put in fresh fuel, installed a new battery, pulled the spark plugs, put a few drops of oil in each cylinder, turned it over to blow the oil out, replaced the plugs and checked all of the other important items...coolant, oil, belts, etc. I also pulled both hoses off of what I believed to be a fuel transfer pump/fuel level sensor located on top of the fuel tank (see attached images) to drain as much of the old gas from these hoses as possible. Then I tried to start it. It turned over great...oil pressure came up immediately but it wouldn't start. After multiple tries I re-checked the hoses connected to the transfer pump to see if there was any fresh fuel present...there was none. So, right or wrong, I made the assumption that this pump was not operating properly. I removed it from the tank and put 12 volts to the contacts (see red arrows) to see if there was any sound from the pump,,,there was none. I was getting only 5-6 volts at the wire connector which plugged into this pump. I'm not a mechanic so I may have taken some incorrect steps along this diagnosis route but now I have a few questions for the 2002 experts: 1. Does it make sense that this is the root cause of my starting problem? 2. What other obvious issues should I be looking for? 3. Where can I purchase a replacement pump? I've tried to search using the part numbers on this pump and fuel level sensor but nothing shows up. Is there a newer pump which replaces this 42 year old component? Any help will be appreciated. Jim


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