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  1. Now it gets complicated! This built M20 engine is installed in a 1976 2002 so some troubleshooting steps may be unique to the original host vehicle, a 1990 325i.
  2. Could a faulty fuel pump relay for an M20 engine cause the engine to start easily when cold, idle smoothly for less than two minutes, quit abruptly, and not start again until it sits for 5 minutes. Then the cycle repeats...starts easily, idles smoothly now for 50-60 seconds, then quits abruptly and won't start again. Any thoughts???
  3. Blunt Thanks for you work on this. I'd like to buy 4 (four) of them from you so that I have a spare or two. I assume that the cleanest way to buy these is on your online site...correct? Thanks again... Jim
  4. Blunt I'm still waiting to hear back from him...I sent him the same image I sent you to assure that he and I are talking about the same part. I agree with you that it doesn't look precisely the same. When I hear back from him I will inquire about the set screw. Thanks Jim
  5. Blunt Thanks for the info. I've spoken with the man who originally did the work on my car and he says that the part he installed and that I need to solve the problem I currently have is a "Shift Lever-Lower Part #2511 1 2202 13". If you can source this item, I'd like to buy it from you but if not they appear to be available from a number of online sources. Sounds like your system may be an option for me to pursue next spring when the car comes back out of winter storage and I'm ready for an upgrade. Thanks
  6. Blunt Thanks for your response I dug through the paperwork I was provided when the M20/5 speed was originally installed and you are correct...the list of components includes a "1983 European 323i bellhousing". Also a "custom length greaseable driveshaft" and a "1980 320i rubber coupling donut". There is no other info in the paperwork regarding which shift linkage was installed. What is a DSSR, where would I measure center to center and can this mod be done without removing the transmission? I'm not a mechanic, never have been and wouldn't be a good one so I'll need to hire this work done. Any idea how big a job? I'm in Colorado...you're in Minnesota. Do you do this kind of shop work or are you a "parts only'" operation? Thanks
  7. Thanks to all for thoughts. Once the 2002 was up on a lift it appeared that the bushing in the attached image is shot and that is where at least most of the play is coming from. The transmission is a 5 speed overdrive from a 1980 320i...the 245 transmission config is visible on the case. My problem now is that I'm having a hard time locating the joint with the missing bushing. I assume that when the M20 engine and 5 speed were installed by a very capable BMW guy that he used the 320i platform so I further assume that this is a 320i part rather than an original 2002 part. Any ideas on whether this looks like a 2002 or 320i part and where can I find one? Thanks
  8. Can these bushings be replaced from underneath the car on a lift or does the trans need to come out?
  9. The 5 speed trans from a 325i in my 2002 has been working fine...no funny noises and shifting just fine. However, today I discovered that the shift lever is now free to move from side to side as though it was in neutral but it moves this way in all gears. Since I'm the only one who drives this car it really isn't a major issue UNLESS this is an indication of something going wrong inside the transmission. Any thoughts from those with more technical sense than me?
  10. Simeon Shazzam!!! I'm living proof of how easy it is to overlook the simplest and easiest solution to a problem. It turns out that the capable guy who installed the M20 engine in my 2002 overlooked the fact that PermaCool, the company which supplied the electric fan, always ships their fans out as puller arrangements expecting that they would be mounted on the engine side of the rad core to pull cool air through the core into the engine compartment. With no space in front of the M20 engine in my 02, the new fan got mounted on the front side of the core but remained in the puller arrangement. So, whenever the fan came on it was immediately pulling hot air out of the engine compartment and through the rad core actually heating the coolant. Further, the force of the air coming out the front prevented much cooler air from entering the core, even at speed thus my overheating. Switched the wiring yesterday, fan rotates the opposite direction, problem solved! Thanks for reminding me of what turned out to be a reasonably simple solution.
  11. Steve Thanks for the award and sorry for my mistake...I'm old (75+), technically illiterate and not very familiar with the protocol for this website. As you suggested, I'll try a new thread for my issue. Regards, Jim
  12. The M20 in my 1976 02 with a 323 radiator and electric fan runs great and can stay cool all day even when hammered...the 6 pulls great, sounds great and has the smoothness common to I6 engines. However, at city speeds in traffic the temp gauge immediately begins to climb until the temp gauge is almost buried...by that time I'm home I unfortunately have to shut it off just before it boils over. My question is should the 323 radiator with an electric fan be enough cooling capacity to keep the M20 cool or do I need more radiator or more fan or both? I'm a bit uncomfortable that there may not be enough space under the hood with this engine for the air from the fan to flow through the radiator properly...since the engine stays cool at highway speeds, perhaps I just need more velocity through the radiator. I know the fan is working and is set to suck air into the rad. What radiator are others using with M20 conversions and does this problem sound unique?
  13. I would also be interested in the trunk panels.
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