Jump to content

Seth Horwitz

Solex
  • Content Count

    139
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    N/A

Community Reputation

25 Excellent

About Seth Horwitz

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Also interested, shipped to 10065. Please send price and payment instructions. Thanks. Seth
  2. Did you have an ICE/Clardy, or a Behr? It LOOKS like a Behr unit, but I don’t know if it needs the Clardy parts to work. (That’s what he mentions on his page.) Thanks. Edit: Also, what about the AC intake vents and sides of the console? Koogle, too?
  3. Sorry for the threadcrap, but where’d you get that console? (Custom, or DTek?) Looks great. I’ve got an original Behr AC and don’t love the look.
  4. You're being generous. The E9 forum has some opinions about BHCC. The consensus was that no price was cheap enough to buy a car from them, sight unseen.
  5. A dab of Leatherique and that interior will be as good as new.
  6. Where were you when I let the insurance company salvage my 330ci years back? Just kidding. How many more computers would I have to deal with to get an OBDII engine to work? Andrew, always very helpful. The S52 crank has me thinking back to my ‘99 M3. I had an issue with that car, too, and nobody would’ve known if I pulled the whole engine out of that thing. I have some more thinking to do. Does anyone know of a good engine builder in the northeast? Kormann is pretty far south of me, and I’d have to go through Virginia. I’ve sworn off driving through that state, as Highway Patrol just waits for out-of-state idiots like me at the border. Thanks guys.
  7. I don’t really have a set budget, so I’m flexible. Again, I don’t mind paying up, but don’t want to waste money, either. I’ve mentioned in the past that I need an automatic, and the M20s were available with a 4-speed, which is part of the allure. (It’s a ZF 4HP22) I won’t be able to wind out a high revving stroker engine, or wait for a ton of boost to spool up, if the tranny is shifting for me. I’d rather drive a stick, but my ankle is messed up. Long story. With all of those caveats, I’m looking for the smartest engine I can build.
  8. Good call. Two points that I forgot to mention. 1) I don’t mind building an engine, plan to, actually, so not just bolt ons. I’m speaking about the block. 2) It’ll be naturally aspirated. Plumbing a turbo seems to be overkill for the kind of power I’m looking for. (Low to mid 200s, with a usable torque curve.) Thanks.
  9. I’ve researched threads going back years, but I haven’t seen a direct comparison when starting from scratch. Everyone always seems to have one or the other, and people say “sure, you can work with that.” But, which is better to start. It seems: In stock form, the B27 is garbage and to be avoided. You can generally get a B27 cheaper than a B25 for that very reason. I believe the B27 block is a bit heavier. The B27 block has higher displacement. You CAN make a head from a B25 fit onto the B27. You'll probably need a fresh software tune, regardless of what you build. So, if starting from scratch, would anyone choose the B27 block over the B25, because you already have a bit more displacement? I believe there are limits to further boring the B27 more so than the B25, but what if you’re not looking to go crazy and don’t plan on needing the extra metal? I want an engine that gives a bit more oomph, without being a high strung engine that may break. I’m not looking for a budget build, nor looking to spend an extra five grand for five more horsepower. There’s a happy medium. Thanks for any help. Seth
  10. My passenger window has some issues going up when fully down, and I assume it’s the regulator. (It could be out of alignment, but I haven’t cracked the door panel, yet.) I hear they’re good to have as backups, anyway. I only need the passenger side (right) but I’ll take both if they’re in good shape. Thanks. Seth
  11. Good info. Thanks, Chris. I’ll likely be doing your bumpers and trim, but I have some other mechanical and body work to do beforehand. As an aside, are there any issues (legally or with insurance companies) removing 76 D.O.T. bumpers? I know they don’t serve any protective purpose above 5mph, but I’m curious if you have any info, either way, as to the outside world’s acceptance of “structural” mods that aren’t structural. My friend did fiberglass bumpers on a 60 something 911, but I don’t think there were ever any regulations on those. Thanks again for some great looking products.
  12. FYI, site load appears to be noticeably slower, as well. (Reading and posting.) I don’t know if there’s a cache building up, but, if not, maybe it’s something to look into.
  13. I’m curious, too. (In the event that Chris is sending direct messages and not putting up new posts.) I have all of my trim pieces, but they’re dinged and I am ready to send it all out to a specialist for repair and replating for a guaranteed fit (at a higher cost) if I have to. As the new parts from BMW have fitment issues, ignoring anything aftermarket, it’d be awesome if this set didn’t. Also, is there any special care needed for this stainless as opposed to the aluminum from the factory? (Does it require polishing? If so, how often? Does the paint need to be masked off? Etc.)
  14. You think that’s wrong? 😂 Thanks for the good work. EDIT: That was sincere. The work is much appreciated. Right after I posted, I noticed that it looked glib.
  15. The search function has some issues. It may be fully functioning, and things just need to index, but it has problems at the moment.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.