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Seth Horwitz

Solex
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About Seth Horwitz

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  1. The rockers all around the car. (Basically anywhere water can pool, inside a panel, and cause rust. Look for bubbles in the paint that hint at rust.) Wheel arches. Pull out the spare tire and take a pic of the well and try to get as much of the gas tank as you can.) If you can get under the car to get the frame rails, that’ll help, too. I assume you’re not going to pull up the carpet, but footwells have been known to rust, on occasion. Actually, I’m sure there’s a post on here, somewhere, listing all of the sweet spots.
  2. If that car cleans up the way it looks like it should, the drivetrain is good, minimal rust, and he puts on new tires, I don’t think $10K would be a problem if someone can drive it away. (That’s a handful of assumptions.) $15K wouldn’t surprise me. Add rust or drivetrain issues and you’ve got a big variable.
  3. Wasnt Clardy a future duplication of the older Frigiking? I believe the engineers started a new company, or something. Either way, I think the Clardy was an aftermarket unit, a few years later, whereas the other two were available, installed, when the car got to you at your dealer. By saying “he’s good,” I was saying that if someone needs air conditioning, they’re unlikely to look at a nonfunctional compressor and have a problem with that. The evaporater is there, which is the hardest thing to retrofit with a whole new console. (It’s not hard, but requires you to find one [the hardest part], mount it, and drill into the firewall. If the original stuff is all there, with the other parts inside the engine bay broken, it’s easier to source and replace those parts with newer, upgraded, equipment.
  4. A/C was a dealer/port installed option, and was either a Behr or a Frigiking. You have the Behr unit in there. That center console is actually all that most people are looking for. Downstream they’ll substitute in some newer components. (Or, some will yank it all from the car. Even at its best, in California, the car won’t get chilly at any point.) If you turn the heat off, and the fan blows on the A/C, you’re good.
  5. I’ll leave it to others for a good price. I had a unique situation where one car just really worked out for me, so I’m pretty sure I overpaid, but willingly. Are those seats blue? My car could be it’s fraternal twin, with the exception of the tranny and wheels.
  6. Just make sure you know what YOU will be getting saddled with if you list it on BaT for him. Right or wrong, buyers over there expect a very responsive seller to answer any questions, some reasonable, most unreasonable, but expected. Nice cars do nice money over there, but make sure you don’t put in a ton of effort to have the car not meet some ridiculous reserve that he’s set. Good luck.
  7. I can’t help beyond recommending buying one in CA, before you leave, based on my last year of looking until I found something local. I’m in NY, but all of the cars of interest were on the West Coast. (I’ll be the first to say that I overpaid by at least 3K, but it was easier than traveling to find the right car. Of course, a month after I bought mine, they started popping up locally.) Take your time and find the right car, as so many seem to have wound up in that area. I think you’ll do better than you think with $10K. You won’t be going to car shows, but I think you can find a daily driver that needs a lot of TLC, but should be pretty mechanically sound.
  8. That reputation has carried all of the way to New York.
  9. I believe someone got some from Turner relatively recently, but they, and it seems everyone else, are backordered. Any leads? Thanks.
  10. I’ll bite. What’s a ballpark price to Turbo an ordinary, carb’d, M10?
  11. As anyone who’s seen my asinine seeming questions, there is a rhyme and reason behind them. (I’m not crazy, well at least not here. See below.) I actually have a multipart question, as all of the variables are important. When swapping to an M20, which (specific) engine mounts did you use, did you do any cutting of the front sheet metal, how far did that move the output shaft from the engine backward toward the firewall, which tranny did you then use, and how much/where did you have to hammer the tranny tunnel? I’m planning on a custom driveshaft, and whatnot, behind there, so it’s not too important to me. Thank you, much. Seth Why I ask: ”Why didn’t you just search, stupid?” I have. A lot. For months. Well, a search doesn’t give me what I need. I need to put an automatic transmission back into my 2002, which means I’ll need a ZF3HP22 or ZF4HP22, for various reasons. I don’t know of anyone who’s ever done that. I can, hopefully, find a way to get someone to compare the dimensions of a G240 or G245 5-Speed (or a 4-Speed if anyone went that route) to either slushbox, to get an idea of how much massaging will be needed based on which mounts, or if it’s not even possible. I can take a long drive to a parts dismantler, if necessary. (That will be considerably cheaper than going in blind, after buying parts, for a mock-up on the car.) Different mounts, from different vendors, seem to lead to different positioning of the engine, and I’m just looking for the sweetest spot. Bonus: “Why would you put in an Automatic? That’s dumb.” I agree, but ask one of the two surgeons that screwed up a “simple” surgery in 2001. The award winning surgeon is now dead (May he Rest In Peace, as I’ve moved on), and his lackey resident who did the surgery is now doing much less complex surgery at a garbage hospital, so I think the answer can be assumed as “umm, whoops.”
  12. Thanks, Toby. I can never make it easy. I was hoping that there was a better option but, if you’re the one telling me that there probably isn’t, I’m pretty sure there isn’t.


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