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  1. eurotrash

    Cleaning House. More 02 Parts.

    Is that a full set of rings? I am tentative on those, pending more info..
  2. What's the story on the VAC prepped heads? Know anyone who has used them?
  3. I don't have a dampner for the s14, so I am not sure which is the best route in my situation considering the asking price for even a crappy used one. Plus its got a shit ton of useless pulleys I would be inclined to cut off in a band saw. That being said, cutting the snout is not uncommon in this build.
  4. @Preyupy Interestingly, I decoded that build sheet from Germany. 1. It says that they used an M3 head gasket, and added cooling passages to the head. I asked and he said that he indeed had the head drilled for the cooling holes between the bores. As well as filled the s14 hole at the back of the block with aluminum. 2. I also found that the sheet says that they "drilled the the oil gallery to 2mm"..? I asked, and that was just for more oiling. 3. They also decked the block 3.4mm. I asked, and that was so it would work with the s38 pistons with stock 144mm s14 rods and a 1mm deck height. 4. 121 head was used, I asked. For an off the shelf build, it sounds like: 2.3-2.4L to keep the bore size in the s14 block down. 1.8mm (MLS..?) head gasket for 1mm deck height (guesstimate for now) 1.8 head with mild work including big valves 292 (maybe 300) cam 46mm rods/m10 coated bearings 10.5:1 CR custom pistons, just add dome shape for head of choice. s14 oil pump with m10 pickup 8.5" intake runners tuned for 2.4L, 292 cam and max torque at 6000. Cut the crank snout to accept the m10 crank pulley M10 timing cover Block the coolant passage in the block Drill head for s14 water passages between the bores.
  5. So, @Preyupy, have you ever chased torque vs. HP, for a quick street car? (Not that those numbers are bad.. but those kind of revs are why I sold the s14 top end off to begin with. Well, that, and I wanted a period look as the finished product.) I currently have, and am planning for 45mm carbs, but have been pricing/specing out the Jenvey Heritage TBs and EFI bit for later improvements. I had the e30 and early e21 m10 intakes as well, but sold them off when I decided to stay with carbs.
  6. 121 head and 635 CSI pistons..which are installed at 1mm over the deck due to a 3.4mm cut to the deck.. I was going to go with either a 1.8 or e12 head and custom pistons with 10.5 CR.. hm.
  7. @AceAndrew Ok, I found the man in question. Walter Thomas.. Here is is response to my questions. But I am waiting to hear if the numbers were at the wheels. Hi Jason, my old engine was a 2,3L S14 combo. 206PS and 230 Nm. The actuell engine is a 2,5L S14 combo with 225PS and 255 Nm. The 2,3L had a 304° SCHRICK and 45er WEBER. The 2,5L has a 336/328 SCHRICK and 48er WEBER. I miss my old engine very often. It was the right engine for me. The 2,5L is too rought!! Endless power abouve 4500 rpm.But under 4500 rpm no culture! I sold it last month and in the winter time I built a new engine. It will be a 2,0L with 304° or 300° and 45er WEBER. The 2,3L was the best!!! Sorry for my bad english, I hope you understand what I mean! EDIT: that was crank power numbers, and when asked if it was worth the expense.. ... and YES it is worth!
  8. @AceAndrew I have been asking for anyone who owns one to put up numbers.. no one will step up. I am about to offer to pay for the dyno pulls.. I don't know if you saw it, but it became a spat on Facebook a while back.. when I got jokingly serious about how weird it is that no one will do so. That being said, the wild one over in the EU that put up like 225/175 (IIRC) was posted, I just can't find it. I hate all the lost info on FB..
  9. eurotrash

    1969 BMW 2002

  10. eurotrash

    TDC and the 02again crank trigger wheel

    Not sure.. it was a few years ago.. but I usually buy the top of the line.
  11. @JimK, I was hoping you would ring in here. But I will tell you that there are several of these motors on the streets of LA currently. New builds that Le Tran and I built on paper years ago (by no means implying that we were the first to look at the idea). He has customers with 2.3 and 2.5 evo blocks. Last I heard there was a 2.7 in the works... Jeff Dietch is pretty proud of how his turned out. He started with Dellorto 45s and is now moving to the Jenvey heritage TBs. Point is, via the wide-eyed guys who volunteered their checkbooks to fund the proof of concept, we know it IS possible. As well, a gentleman in Europe has reported numbers of 200+ with a 316 cam and 45s. But he probably did a ton of head work. Right now, I have the s14 block and crank, and I know that.. 1. I need to either turn the crank nose down, or open up the chain cover seal hole. 2. Close up the hole in the left rear corner of the block and maybe a few other tweaks. 3. Custom pistons for the bore/pin height/combustion chamber/CR 4. MLS M10 head gasket for a 94mm bore.
  12. So, I have been pondering all the things. s14 block and crank vs. m10 block with s14 crank vs. m10 block and crank.. all with long 146mm rods, as a theoretical study. When it comes to rod ratios, I understand that anything over 1.6 is I did some online 80mm stroke with 146mm rods renders a 1.82 rod ratio. In a 91mm bore at 2081cc. 84mm stroke with 146mm rods renders a 1.74 rod ratio. In a 91mm bore at 2185cc OR 84mm stroke with 146mm rods renders a 1.74 rod ratio. In a 94mm bore at 2317cc The numbers are quite interesting, but the question becomes more about the weight of the s14 crank, the rod ratios, and the final displacement.. which is the most balanced build? Does the added displacement of option #3 make it the clear choice? Or no? It should be noted that I am not using the 16 valve head if I use the s14 block, but either a built e12 or 1.8 head with a 292 or 300 degree cam.. so as traditional knowledge maintains, I will not be spinning to 7k effectively. Nor do I wish to.. The concept is max torque for a quick car on the street and 3rd gear back roading.
  13. eurotrash

    TDC and the 02again crank trigger wheel

    I was going to comment, but see after reading the whole first page, that you figured it out. I was only going to comment that a dial type, adjustable timing light is handy because you can turn the dial until your marks line up, to see what advance is actually happening at any RPM. (Get the analog dial type adjustable light, I originally had the INNOVA digital version and it crapped out.)