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About d.hitchcock

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  1. I have Electromotive TECs in my car, running EFI with a 318 manifold, wideband 02, etc. So far, it has been fine! I did not do my own tuning https://electromotive.com/our-products/tecs/
  2. Today, I got the car out first thing, pulled the TRW pads from the problem brakes, and discovered the Mintexs are in fact a 32-plus thinner than the TRWs. Remembering from yesterday's inspection that the driver side had about a 32nd more clearance and no issues, I was willing to gamble that the real problem was just available space within the caliper. I tossed in the Mintexs and went out for a drive. No progression of weird, off-pedal squeals, no heat buildup. All braking felt normal. I did not hammer the new pads, but I did use them and there were no signs of the caliper seizing. I'm still curious why the two calipers fit slightly differently, but I'm thrilled the car works right now.
  3. I am using a stock 2002 master cylinder. I installed a rebuilt one last April. Flex lines are braided stainless steel ones, and do not appear to be pinched or twisted. They were installed new during the car's reassembly during the past three years or so.
  4. SO ... here's what I discovered. The caliper is not centered over the rotor. The outer surface of the rotor almost touches the caliper on what I would describe as its inner faces. Driver side is offset in the same manner, but has a tiny bit more clearance and no issues. So I took pass side apart, reset the hub nut to be sure all was good there, wire brushed the caliper mounting points, cleaned the hub face and the inner face of the rotor, reassembled. Problem was alleviated a bit, but not eliminated. Tomorrow I'll pop some Mintex reds in to see if they fit better than the TRWs I slapped on for expedience sake. Cheers!
  5. Hi all: While rebuilding my struts recently, I discovered my passenger side caliper had been partially seized for awhile. There was extreme rotor wear and pad damage, especially on the outside pad/rotor surface. The car has e12 four-piston ATE calipers, e21 vented rotors, tii struts, a tii booster, a stock 2002 master cylinder (rebuilt, installed in April), braided steel soft lines and hard lines bent by the previous owner. So, I replaced the seized caliper with a rebuilt one, (many, many thanks to IE!!!), along with new pads and rotors. The passenger side brake is still acting like its seized. Squealing and loud resonant hum after a mile or so, and a lot of heat from the brakes/wheel compared to the driver side. I rebled the caliper and checked my work. Everything seemed OK. My assistant did some pedal pumping while I watched. The both pads moved and seemed to release. So I drove a bit more and the problem reoccurred. What am I missing? What could be causing this symptom, assuming the caliper is actually good.?
  6. Replaced Bilstein sport strut inserts with Koni yellows due to a blown Bilstein. Konis were all I could find, and that's fine by me. I'm a fan. Had 'em on a couple of autoX cars, including DA "race" Konis. Anyway, it took me about two hours, and the transformation to the car is incredible! Thanks to mlytle for his "how-to" notes found on FAQ thread about strut-housing replacement. The blown Billie will be rebuilt. Here it is. It came out of the strut housing in pieces.
  7. Thanks for that info, Toby B and mlytle. When my time comes for DAs, I will reach out to you for info on how to accomplish this. Double-adjustables, once you get the setup straightened out, are flat-out amazing. BTW, mlytle, your strut replacement instructions on the FAQ were my go-to today. Thanks for that as well. VS-Sat: Howdy, I have Ireland "Stage II" springs, so lower and stiffer, with Ireland's swaybars.
  8. Sadly, I have been unable to locate the bill of sale. I'm still looking. At any rate, I will get this one rebuilt one way or another, then I'll have them as spares, which will be fine! Frankly, I hope to convert to double-adjustable koni coilovers within a year or two, like I've had on my autocross cars. I'm spoiled like that, but my current budget says NO WAY! 🙂
  9. I installed The new Koni yellows today. They feel great. I adjusted them to about 2/3rds of full stiffness, per Jeff Ireland's advice. Haven't gotten to drive the car hard yet to feel the handling now, but the ride is very nice. With the blown shock, we were bouncing around a lot, as well as being dismayed at the knocking/banging from the front end.
  10. For some reason, I am unable to load the image with the original post ...
  11. " 'E's not dead. 'E's just sleeping!" With apologies to Monty Python ...
  12. My car has the e21 vented rotors and four--piston calipers from an e12 ///M5. I'm not sure you could fit 13s over them, though. Also e21 drums/cylinders in the rear. The brakes are fantastic! Balance seems excellent.
  13. I recently replaced my master cylinder, asked the same question, and wound up with the same input. Pressure bleeder makes it simple, no muss no fuss no bench bleeding. I did go back and manually bleed the calipers afterwards. I never trust a pressure bleeder to get all the air out.

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