bluehills2002

Yes, I can scan it in next week (I do not have a scanner at home). As I look at it more closely, it’s actually in seven languages (being mono lingual I can only use one.). So it runs 38 pages, before you get to the actual first part page, 11-1.

Mike, I have a paper catalog that dates to 1973 that has a more detailed index. A couple of sample pages are showing below. It also has some interesting features like an explanation of the three subdivisions of a typical 11 digit part number, and what abbreviations mean. (It is also in three languages.). I can scan it in next week if someone does not come up with something better in the meantime. Tom

Might Behr have been the supplier or one of the suppliers? My ‘72 project has that style. It has not been on the road in many years, but has a partial sticker.

How are your alternator bushings and belt? My ‘74 (no AC) ran consistently hot, I replaced those plus new thermostat (all from Steve at Blunt), and now I am solidly in the 3 o’clock club, even on 90 degree days. With the new bushings, you can easily achieve the 10 mm play in the belt as recommended.

Longer than I would have guessed, Enoz. The antenna on my ‘72 project extends to 4’. The second topmost section is frozen, though, that would add another 10-12”. I am sure someone will have a more specific measurement. Tom

Sounds to me like you had a valid contract, which can be written or oral, so long as there is a “meeting of the minds”. The sale was not completed, so one side must have breached the agreement. Generally, as a matter of basic contract law, the nonbreaching party would be entitled to the deposit. E.g., You were unable to deliver the car or he was unable to come up with the cash. But if it is as you described, you would be entitled to keep the deposit. (You gave up something of value when you took the deposit, namely not to suddenly sell to a higher bidder who came down the road after him). Most states have special rules with respect to real estate security deposits, and there might be something in your state regarding used car sales, but unlikely to apply to you as a private party. Tom

Here’s how they look in my ‘74, Mike. Given the general dinginess and the fact that my car was off the road for about 30 years leads me to believe they are original.

Thank you all. I am going to take a closer look and see what kind of shape my gaskets are in. I might have been too generous grading them a seven. I do not want them to fall apart on me.

The chrome strips on my front and rear windows have sort of a faux rust look. The gaskets themselves are OK, probably a 7 out of 10, but it’s largely a fair weather car so I do not want to replace those at the moment. I see that the chrome strips are still available for about $60, can I remove and replace those without removing the gaskets, or will both have to come out? I suspect they are both original.

That is so realistic! Looks like a craigslist ad, “good candidate for restoration”!

Who else misses baseball? It’s going to be a long summer if the MLB and the players cannot agree on a deal. (I suppose it’s going to be a long summer even if they do agree on a deal.). Fenway Park replica scoreboard in Norwood, Massachusetts.

My first 2002, ‘74 Arktisblau. I remember taking this photo in the late 80s on Nahant Beach, MA, with my Canon AE-1 35mm (remember those?) I used to have it serviced at a place in Lynn called Bavarian Motorsport, long since gone.

Excellent advice as always thank you all. As I am doing this I noticed that the only markings on my alternator of unknown vintage are “reman 446” so I might have to repeat this process before long. Ricanbeemer, I did confirm with Steve at Blunt that the two machined bushings in the package are for the lower part of the adjustment bracket (where it attaches to the block). See photo. Tom