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cdn97986

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About cdn97986

  • Birthday 02/12/1976

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    Male
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    Pennsylvania

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  1. I tried to dicker a bit on this yesterday, and between the seller and his father, there was a lot of "we know what we got" posturing and absolutely no movement on price. Kind of weird since I asked why the black car was partially parked in a woodpile and the response was his dad needed room and pushed it there with a front loader. Not exactly "knowing what we got" kind of behavior to me. Anyways, not planning on talking to the seller for at least a couple of days, one to get some advice here on what's there, and second to let him stew on maybe knocking some $$$ off of the price.
  2. I do believe the 15" wheels on the silver car did have one with a black center cap remaining, others were missing. On the black car, there are 2 sets of 13" wheels included. One is the std E21 Mahle basketweave, and the second is the Vial type w/ the ET13 offset that have the gold centers. The car currently has Mahle's up front and Vials in the rear that have been Plasti-dipped white.
  3. Unfortunately the shifter linkage was not connected, so couldn't verify the shift pattern. But I agree with you, probably just a 240. Wasn't sure if that tab could be repaired or not, sounds like a good welder can do it, good to know. As for the rear diffs, only the black car has a LSD, the silver is a std open unit. Your price estimates are pretty spot on to slightly conservative for what I was tallying as well. I really only have room for one parts car, so that is the bigger issue for me, two will make things kind of difficult. Decisions, decisions. Thanks, Craig
  4. I've found 2 '82 320s for sale relatively close to me, definitely parts cars from what I can see. The black one (was black at one time!) was the one of most interest for me for parts for my 02, 5 sp, LSD, Recaros and sport wheel. The Recaros will need recovered, but looked OK foam-wise, and the sport wheel was in OK shape. The issue I was not made aware of until I looked at the car is it was taken off of the road because of a shredded guibo while driving, so the back of the tranny is beat up. I was only able to shoot a couple of photos under the car to see the damage (below), and at least the trans mount tab is broken. Guy claims it is not an OD 5 spd, but a close ratio from what he remembers when he was driving it. The LSD looks in OK shape from what I can see, the rear piece of the driveshaft was still attached from the guibo incident, but the front piece of the drive shaft is missing. Of course "ran when parked," and engine looked complete. Second silver car has a better visible body, but floors in cabin and trunk had some rust holes (passenger front floor removed and steel plate laying in place!). This one had an OD 5 sp that looked OK, engine has bad head gasket, but had 15" Mahle basketweaves in decent shape. Guy is firm at $1k for each car, I was planning on buying the black one for the "is" parts for my 02, but now with the damaged tranny, no so sure what to do. Damage like pictured to that tranny pretty much reduces it to parts status from what I've read. Thoughts? Thanks, Craig
  5. Yup...as others had said, someone used fuel hose. Happened to my '75 a couple of months ago, bought a meter length of the official BMW 21521163714 now black braided cloth hose for ~$10. Replaced the MC grommets and plastic inserts as well at the same time. All dry now.
  6. Before setting the toe, I ensured the lever from the steering box was straight, which caused the steering wheel to be off. I corrected the wheel afterwards, and know I had adjusted it last fall, so suspecting why it was off. Will get an alignment at some point, just wanted to drive it a bit more on the old tires to see if anything shows up. I literally trashed my old tires in less than 500 miles! Thanks, Craig
  7. Good news after about a 75 mile ride yesterday. The low speed squealing is gone, and the car tracks much better than before. Will pull slightly to the right on certain road conditions, but almost nothing under others. Positive camber is much improved, to the point of almost an illusion as many had mentioned. So the combo of the positive camber and massive toe in is what I suspect ruined the outer edge of my old tires, Will continue to drive on my old 13's w/ 165 80's for the next few trips to see how tire wear is looking, and then switch back to the 14's w/ new tires if all is OK. Thanks again, looks like a "positive" outcome, and fix didn't require a trip to the alignment shop.
  8. Correct, the steering wheel is not centered now. I had adjusted it last fall because it was not straight (now I know why!), so when re-adjusting will probably wind up in the old spot I suspect. One thing I didn't mention before is that the two bolts to clamp / lock in the ball joints threads seemed a little loose on the driver side, but not so on the passenger side. Wondering if the PO didn't snug these up and its been slowly unscrewing? There were still plenty of threads left, but glad I caught / adjusted.
  9. So I checked my front toe using some cut PVC pipe and 2 tape measures today. Initial - Front of tire (driver) Initial - Rear of tire (driver) I was out over an inch, so massive toe in as many mentioned. When I checked the adjusters for the tie rods on each side, the driver side had several more threads showing than the passenger side both on the inner and outer ball joint, so I only adjusted the driver side one. Adjusted - Front of tire (driver) Adjusted - Rear of tire (driver) When getting within a 1/16 of an inch by just adjusting the driver side tie rod, both sides now had approximately the same amount of threads showing on the ball joints. Did not get a chance to drive the car this evening, just ran out of time. Visually, the camber looks a little better, but will reserve judgement until after a drive. Will report back what I find tomorrow. Thanks again for all of the help. Craig
  10. I did do a quick finger check on the clearance of the front wheels to the fender. Two on the driver side / three for the passenger, so there is a difference. I spent some time looking at some previous BAT auction 2002s for wheel placement pics since there are a ton of close-up high res photos there, and I do see similar deviation on some of those as well. Not saying mine is right, but I've seen others that are different. I'll take another measurement after I do the toe measurement / adjustment this weekend. Thanks again to all with the replies!
  11. Interesting point on the bushing orientation. The thick one was stamped “front,” which I took to mean front position. Maybe it meant the stamp side should be facing front? Minimal instructions were in the package unfortunately. If someone could confirm, that would be great.
  12. The '75 I bought last summer has always had some positive camber on both front wheels. The passenger side was always a bit more pronounced, and after only putting 500 or so miles on the car, the passenger side tire is badly worn on the outside (driver side is not much better). In the past week, due to ripped ball joints (riveted - probably original), cracked bushings (control arm, subframe, sway bar mounts / links) and unknown condition wheel bearings, I swapped all of these parts out. Now have new urethane bushings, fresh ball joints, and wheel bearings / seals up front. The steering arms / ball joints were all new when I got the car, so I didn't touch them. Also left the springs / struts / strut mounts as well, all seemed serviceable, and do not appear to be lowering springs. Control arms had some nicks and bumps, but when I laid them side by side, flipped over, etc, could not see any bends (I did see some pics while searching of bent arms, mine don't look like that), so I re-used and just did bushings and ball joints. So after all of this, still have the exact positive camber as before. I did tighten all bushings with the car on the ground / after a short drive to make sure they had a chance to settle. Car does squeal pretty good on turns even at low speed with this camber. I included some after pics below of the car. I have old OEM 13x5" wheels on the car now as "rollers" until I figure this out (165 80 R13 snow tires...old), and had 14" wheels on before with 175 65 14's, no rubbing or any issues with those. So my searches came up with the following as possible issues: Bent strut housings - I did measure between the tube and rim lip around where the brake hose bracket is, and the driver side was ~2mm less than the passenger side. So a difference, not sure if there is a better place to measure to compare to what a factory new one would be? Bent control arms - I doubt this is it, but includes some pics below. Bent subframe - the passenger side looks a little tweaked where the radius arm attaches to the subframe, but driver side looks good but also has the camber issue (albeit less). Wrong springs - rears used up front is what I have been reading about, mine seem to have the same number of coils as other pics I've seen of stock springs, so not sure there. Could not find the painted rings on them anywhere to ID unfortunately. I have not measured the toe yet, the amount of camber I am seeing looks pretty significant, so don't think that is the answer. Might want to take the car to an alignment shop to get some toe, camber, caster numbers to see what I'm working with. Tough to find a place around here that will even look at an older car for alignment (Pittsburgh area). Any other thoughts / suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Craig
  13. Thanks for the tips Mike. Again, lots of great info here, going to do the grease trick to keep the rust at bay in that cavity (mine was surprisingly free of rust / easy to remove for a PA / MD car), and have new "special" bolts and safety wire ready to go. Don't want any surprises when driving spiritedly! Looking at the set-up, is there a good way to get a torque wrench on those special bolts? Seems like it will be too tight when the ball joint / control arm are there. Don't want to bump / knick the boots on the new ball joints! Craig
  14. The boots on the ball joints on my '75 were torn, so am replacing along with front bushings since they look original (riveted to the control arms). Some searching here showed many chose to not pay the $250-300 for the OEM BMW parts, but went with Meyle, Moog, Delphi, OCAP, etc as replacements with good success. I happened to come across some AC Delco Professional ones for sale on RockAuto, CARID, other vendors, and they looked identical to the BMW ones I removed from the pics online. For $60 shipped for a pair, I took a chance, and sure enough, they are the OEM TRW ones identical to the originals. Made in Germany, also have the castle nut / cotter pin set-up versus nyloc nut that most others have. Just feel a little better with a physical pin keeping that nut in place in an area that won't see the light of day hopefully for many years to inspect. Basically OEM parts for 1/10 the cost of BMW. No affiliation, just passing along.
  15. No takers on these thus far, I'll hold onto them for s couple of more weeks before sending them to the landfill. Need the space in my garage!
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