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Found 37 results

  1. 1. Basic Description of 02 Charging/electrical System The 02 charging system converts mechanical energy into electrical energy when the motor is running. Your 02 requires electrical energy to (i) start the motor and run the ignition system, and (ii) operate electrical accessories (e.g., lights, wipers, heater blower, and stereo). Whenever output of the alternator exceeds the demand of the system, that output is available to recharge or maintain the battery’s state of charge. The charging system is comprised of the alternator, voltage regulator, battery and associated wiring. The original factory charging system includes a separate voltage regulator and alternator. • The voltage regulator controls the voltage output, and thus the overall power output, of the alternator. • The battery stores and produces electricity by electrochemical means, and supplies power to your electrical system at times when the demand exceeds alternator output, such as when starting the motor, when the motor is not running, or when the operating demand on the system exceeds the output capacity of the alternator. The battery also acts as a buffer to absorb excessive electrical fluctuation in the system, which protects sensitive electrical components (like the diodes in the alternator). Figure 1: High level diagram of 02 charging system (obviously, not to scale…) 2. Basic Electrical Troubleshooting; Use of DMM A. SAFETY FIRST! • Always remember to think of safety first. Before you attempt any electrical system troubleshooting procedure, you should become familiar with basic car repair and use of tools and workshop equipment. If you have any doubt about the meaning of, or your ability to perform, any part of these procedures, seek assistance from and/or have this work done by a qualified mechanic familiar with 02s. • CAUTION: CAR BATTERIES CONTAIN SULFURIC ACID. ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN WORKING ON OR NEAR A BATTERY. BATTERIES PRODUCE HYDROGEN GAS (EVEN “SEALED” BATTERIES); DO NOT CAUSE SPARKS, SMOKE OR OTHERWISE USE A SOURCE OF FLAME OR HEAT THAT MAY IGNITE THE GAS AND CAUSE AN EXPLOSION. Your work area should be well ventilated to disperse any hydrogen gas that might be vented by a battery.. • NOTE: car batteries are source of significant electrical current; some are capable of delivering in excess of 1000 Amps. That's enough current to melt a wrench shorted across the battery terminals, or between a good source of + to ground. With this in mind, you should never wear metal jewelry, watch bands, rings, necklaces, etc. when working on your electrical system; DO NOT USE WRENCHES, SCREWDRIVERS OR OTHER METAL TOOLS (e.g., removing or installing cables on the back of an alternator) ON A LIVE SYSTEM- remove the ground cable from the battery first and secure it away from the battery post. B. Using a Multimeter. • You will need a digital multimeter (DMM) in order to perform automotive electrical troubleshooting procedures. The good ol’ 12V test light is still available, but is really of limited utility and these days, costs a significant portion of the price of a DMM. You should be able to find a DMM for <=$15. Most auto parts suppliers have an inexpensive model in this price range that will be adequate for basic troubleshooting. Make sure to get a high impedance model, at least 10 megaohms- look at the spec sheet- most DMMs supplied for automotive testing purposes should meet this spec. If you can afford it (should be less than $25), get a DMM that is “autoranging.” This means that the DMM will automatically adjust itself to the scale of the measurement you are taking. For purposes of this discussion, you will be most interested in the voltage and resistance (ohmmeter) testing functions of the DMM. Figure 2: DMM and typical testing examples 3. Signs of Trouble – Symptom/Cause Chart Item Symptom Possible Cause Possible Solution 1 Battery won’t maintain charge, but alternator output to battery OK. Battery defective or battery water low • Replace battery • Add battery water as recommended by manufacturer. 2 Multiple bulbs in car burn out, and/or battery needs water, frequently Alternator output too high Replace regulator 3 Charge indicator light on while ignition switch is off Current is flowing from the alternator through charge indicator light to ground; alternator no-op (likely, faulty diode) Replace alternator 4 Charge indicator light does not come on when ignition switch is on (drive position) Charge indicator bulb defective, or wiring in D+ circuit defective. Replace charge indicator bulb; check continuity of wiring in D+ circuit (between ignition switch, instrument panel, voltage reg. and alt.) 5 Charge indicator light remains on while motor is running; voltmeter reads low; battery discharges. Battery tests OK. System is drawing more power from battery than from alternator. Alternator, voltage regulator, wiring or drive belt loose/defective. • Tighten or replace drive belt • Check charging system wiring, clean connections and/or replace defective wiring. • Replace voltage regulator • Replace alternator 6 Lights dim at low RPMs; Battery tests OK. Alternator output low; alternator, voltage regulator, wiring or drive belt loose/defective. • Tighten or replace drive belt • Check charging system wiring, clean connections and/or replace defective wiring. • Replace voltage regulator • Replace alternator 8 Repetitive alternator failures Excessive load on system: Battery shorted; or too many accessories (e.g., high wattage headlight bulbs, stereo amps, etc.) • Replace battery • Reduce load on system by not operating all accessories at once • Replace alternator with higher output unit 9 Squealing from front of motor, particularly when accelerating and/or when motor is cold. Loose, defective or contaminated drive belt Tighten belt at alternator, or replace belt 10 Unusual noises or vibration from alternator area (e.g., shrieking, whining, rattling, knocking, etc.) Worn alternator mounting bushing and/or bearing Replace bushing or alternator (if bad bearing) 4. Troubleshooting 02 Charging System Problems. If you have any of the charging system problems described above, take the following steps to isolate the problem(s). Note that a full test of the capacity of the charging system requires load testing of the alternator and battery, which is not possible using only a DMM. Many retail auto parts suppliers and virtually all battery shops will have such testers and will generally test your charging system at no charge. Note: never operate you alternator with the battery disconnected- the battery absorbs current surges caused by sudden changes in system load, and prevents your alternator from self-destructing (keeps the diodes from frying). These tests are basically go no-go in nature, and will help you isolate major problems, some of which may require further investigation. A. Test battery voltage, with ignition switch (“Key”) in off position, all accessories off; use DMM in volt meter setting. Put red probe on positive terminal and black probe on negative terminal. A fully charged, open lead-acid battery will read about +12.6V; a sealed, lead-acid battery should read about +12.9V when fully charged. In any event, if your battery shows <+12.6V when it should be fully charged (e.g.., after you have been driving the car for 15 or 30 mins), either your battery has a problem or your charging system is not up to snuff. – if battery voltage reads OK, but you are having other problems like hard starting, slow cranking, etc., you have other mechanical or electrical problems not related to the charging system. – if battery voltage is below +12.6V, test system voltage as per item 4( B ) below. B. Test system voltage (alternator output), with motor running at least 1000RPM. Use DMM in volt meter setting. Put red probe on positive terminal and black probe on negative terminal of battery. Turn on headlights and heater blower. Unless battery is markedly discharged, reading should be between +13.5V and +14.5V. – If output is lower than this range, test output at alternator. Put red probe on B+ terminal on alternator (see illustration below) and black probe on alternator body. If voltage reads in +14V range, alternator is OK; test resistance of charging circuit wiring per item 4(C.) below. Otherwise, use voltage regulator bypass test per item 4(D) below. If no or low output with voltage regulator bypassed, alternator is likely defective and should be removed and bench tested at a shop, and/or replaced. If output is markedly higher than +14.5V (say, over +14.7V), your voltage regulator is defective and should be replaced. C. Test charging circuit wiring. If voltage at alternator is OK, but system voltage tests low at your battery, you will need to test for continuity and excessive resistance in the charging system circuitry. For resistance testing, polarity is not important- it doesn’t matter which probe is at which test point. The resistance reading in these tests should not exceed 1 or 2 Ohms. THESE TESTS ARE CONDUCTED WITH MOTOR NOT RUNNING, KEY OFF. The B+ terminal on the alternator is connected to the positive terminal on the battery, and the body of the alternator must be well grounded to the car chassis. Typically, the alternator body is grounded by a short, stout wire on the back of the alternator to a bolt on the engine block First, use your DMM in the ohmmeter setting, and put one probe on B+ and the other on the positive terminal of the battery and observe the reading; then put your probes between the alternator ground post and the engine block. If the reading in any of these tests exceeds a couple of Ohms, you will need to remove the wires at the connection points and clean the connectors, or replace the wires. It is not unusual for (i) connectors to be corroded at the connection with the wire (some are poorly crimped on and there will be corrosion inside the connector), (ii) the ground wire between the alternator and block to be too small, or (iii) any of the wires to have partially broken strands, or the like. Just for good measure, also check to make sure you have a good ground between the battery and the chassis and engine block. Correct problems and retest. D. Test voltage regulator. To test the voltage regulator, you will need to first test for the presence of +12V on the D+ circuit (see illustrations). Remove the plug from the regulator, turn your Key to the run position, and use your DMM on the voltage setting, with the red probe on the connector for D+ and the black probe on a chassis ground (you can use the negative terminal on the battery). If you do not have +12V on this circuit, then verify that your charge lamp is working (turn Key on; the red charge indicator in the instrument panel should light; if not, then the bulb likely needs to be replaced. The instrument panel must be removed for this purpose. See other FAQ writeups for instructions. If the reading is ~+12V, then you can proceed with the voltage regulator bypass test. This temporarily eliminates the voltage regulator from the charging circuit. You will need to use a small jumper wire between the D+ and DF connectors in the regulator plug, per the following illustration. If charge indicator light goes out with this jumper in place and system voltage tests OK as per item 4( B ) above, then your regulator is defective. Note: do not operate charging system with regulator bypass in place more than momentarily for testing purposes. Figure 3: alternator bypass test Figure 4: The back of an actual 02 alternator. Questions on any of this material? Send me an email: [email protected]
  2. Started the harness re-taping and battery relocation. Using 1 inch cloth tape rather than attempting to cut down to 1/2 inch. The harness in the car was dry and flaky after 40+ years of heat. Used Simple Green to clean up the wiring as I went. The engine bay was taped using the cloth tape and I transitioned to flex-cover for the cabin and trunk harness which went on with a bit more ease. No concern for whether it is true to original just want it clean and simple. Mounted the AGM battery in the rear seat area, added the battery cutoff switch and ran the + cable down the driver side to exit the firewall left of the booster mount. The terminal block is mounted where the battery tray used to be (Cable kit and terminal block found on ebay). Will roll out the sound deadener once I'm sure the layout is set. I also drilled holes for and mounted the retractable seat belts provided by BlueDevils.
  3. As reported in my first post, I intend to build my 1968 1600 into a full electric conversion while retaining the character of the car that we've all come to know and love. It's a great idea, and one that I owe much credit to my father for planting. My Dad has always been into British cars. He owned Triumphs, MG's, and even a XKE Jaguar when I was young. There were always projects in the garage and you always knew where to find Dad... Fast forward 20+ years, and he's still at it. This time, though, he decided he'd learn more about electric vehicle technology by converting a 1972 MGB-GT, one of his favorite British sports cars. It took about 3 years to complete the restoration and conversion, but in the end, he's got a daily driver that's more powerful than the original and certainly more reliable! He's taken it to the ReFuel races at Laguna Seca in Monterey, CA twice now and while he's not scorching the track with new lap records, he's having a great time with it. He's running a 100hp permanent magnet motor with about 240Nm of torque coupled to the original 4-speed with a racing clutch. The lithium-ion battery back is courtesy of our former employer, Brammo, who got acquired by Cummins (yes, the diesel company) for their electrification strategy. He squeezed about the same size capacity battery pack as a 1st generation Nissan Leaf, and more than a Chevy Volt, all while keeping the curb weight to the original gas car's at ~2,300lbs. So... I guess you could say his car is the proof-of-concept for my conversion and certainly the lessons learned on that car will help keep us out of trouble on this one. As this is a blog about the BMW, I'll not cover much of the development of the MGB-GTe, but hit me up with a PM if you want to know more.
  4. In preparation for an upcoming event on the central California coast, Ali Javidan brought his car up to the KoogleWerks facility for some special requests. Bouncing back and forth between filling production parts orders and working on Rick's pig cheek car (another story) in a little over a month we got a lot done. Here are some of the details (all items on Ali's "to-do list" 1: cut out existing seat mount sheet metal structure and fabricate a lower system to mount aftermarket Recaro seat 2: front (engine sump) skid pan 3: in-trunk "spill-proof" fuel filler system 4: cover LED tail lamps for protection and cosmetics 5: swap out external fuel pump for in-tank unit 6:driving light tie-in brackets to eliminate vibration 7: under dash panel to accommodate electric power steering 8: center console cup holder 9: better trunk mounted battery tray/rack ...and a dozen other little things associated or otherwise! (the reality of a "simple list" can often be complicated) the result was, we got a lot done and had a good time doing it. Some new production parts were birthed as a side effect as well!
  5. Selling my battery relocation/brace. Sold my 02 before I got a chance to use it. Purchased off of the forums.Price is 150 shipped obo
  6. I have an e30 battery cable for sale if you are thinking about relocating your battery to either the trunk or the under the back seat. Positive cable measures approx 11-1/2' and the negative is about 6". Local sale has preference as I'd rather not ship. Thanks for looking!
  7. Hi all - down to the truly perplexing problems on my rebuild. I have a ‘75 and I cannot figure out the battery tie down bracket. A bit hung over this morn, but still... 😊 As pix show, tray hole is on alt side but is threaded. And this thread matches the thread on the rod. Seems then that bent part of rod goes topside through bracket that presses on battery top. But can’t quite figure how to turn/tighten the rod and get bracket situated Thanks and feel free to use “moron” in your replies. Send a pix of yours if easy to get to Thanks. Randy
  8. Does anyone know if the battery trays were painted black, or the same color as the engine bay? My 2002 is an early 1968. Thanks
  9. I searched the forum and found a couple of threads on tii batteries but I can't seem to find a part number for a battery to use for 1972 tii with the factory hold down in the US - does it exist? I see that many people are using a 26R but I can't find one that will work with the factory hold down on the ends instead of the side. I really hate to have to make one but will if I have to. Thanks in advance!
  10. Friends, need your help trying a problem with my 2002's charging system. Last weekend, when I was out with the local '02 group, the car would not start after a rest stop on my way home. Looked like a dead battery, so I push-started it and got home. When I went to park it in the garage, it refused to start again, so I jump started it. I pulled out the positive terminal, and the engine did not die, which tells me that the alternator is alternatin'. However, I noticed this cable coming out from the alternator. It was not connected to anything. Upon checking my Prospero's Garage electrical diagram, it seems that juice from the alternator goes back direct to the battery. Could this loose cable be a kluge by the PO to make up for a split cable inside the wiring sleeve coming from the alternator? Your thoughts are appreciated.
  11. Hello guys! I am doing a m44 with m42 injection swap on my oh2. All is done (almost)! The only thing I have to do is wire all this thing and it seems a big job for me. I need to know everything and all the steps to wire this. I saw the swap notes from jake but it seems like Chinese to me. Also, Ive got the harness of the m42 PLUS the harness of the m44. On the m44 harness, I dont have the coil wires. I dont see any cut wires tho. Can someone help me ? I would really like to drive this beast before the end of summer Thank you for your future answers !
  12. Hello guys! I am doing a m44 with m42 injection swap on my oh2. All is done (almost)! The only thing I have to do is wire all this thing and it seems a big job for me. I need to know everything and all the steps to wire this. I saw the swap notes from jake but it seems like Chinese to me. Also, Ive got the harness of the m42 PLUS the harness of the m44. On the m44 harness, I dont have the coil wires. I dont see any cut wires tho. Can someone help me ? I would really like to drive this beast before the end of summer Thank you for your future answers !
  13. Having been abroad for some time, I can't recall what are the best new battery options for my NK 2000. My son killed the current battery last week and my first stop in Seattle will be at an auto parts store to buy a new one. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks, Kit
  14. Price:: 145.00 Location: : fort walton beach, FL ​I have for sale a racetep rear shock tower brace. It's in good condition, and I recently took it off my car. I do not have the mounting bolts for it, but you can source them at any local hardware store... if you're interested feel free to PM me or send me a text 850-240-0402 Price is $145 shipped 20150422_192043 by bluebelt00, on Flickr 20150422_192106 by bluebelt00, on Flickr
  15. So I just met two of the founders of Ohm battery at a startup event. They're launching an indiegogo campaign today for their new 6lb lithium iron phosphate battery (LiFePO4). There is an early bird option to get the units for $179 - $40 off the retail price - so I figured I'd give y'all a heads up if this does it for you. For me this is cheaper than doing the trunk conversion so I went for it. The gist is they are a new company with experienced founders; they have a functional prototypes fielded; and they are launching a campaign today to take their prototypes to mass production. The actual units won't be shipping for a year (August, 2016). I'm reserving mine now because I want to see the guys succeed and believe in the inevitability of this idea. That said, there is risk of delay or failure so buyer beware. It is a new-ish technology which like all new things will have some teething issues. I don't have any affiliation with these guys but based on the prototype I saw today, there's nothing in my experience they can't work through over the next 9 months. It's a simple circuit with some unusual requirements (high amperage) - but nothing that looks too complicated for a new company with financing and smart founders to tackle. If you decide you don't want to reserve one, just let this post serve as a heads up. I think it's a better deal than going with a fancy AGM kit. I've wanted to do this myself but now that a commercial product nearly exists I'll devote my attention to other endeavors. The batteries are a lightweight combination of off-the-shelf LiFePO4 (safer storage than regualr LiPo's) and super capacitors (to dump enough current to the starter) with custom electronics and smart features such as an 'auto shutoff'. The downside is the battery has 1/2-to-1/4 as much capacity as regular lead acid batteries. The auto-shutoff feature will reserve enough juice in the event that you left your lights on. (I.e. if you left your lights on all night, it'll kill the supply, your radio will reset, but when you come back in the morning you'll still be able to startup the car if you can usually it going on 3 or 4 crank attempts.) We were discussing battery placement in another thread and I just wanted to post a follow up over here.
  16. I am planning an upgrade / rewire of my battery cables, B+ to my alternator and starter. I am also going to add a circuit breaker and feed to an amplifier under my rear seat. What I intended to do is replace the 'solder point' shown at No 10 with a circuit breaker with 8mm stud terminals mounted on the inner wing above the battery. The 4sq mm wire to the alternator will be replaced with something like 10 sq mm and wired to the breaker input side along. The 6 sq mm will be replaced by whatever size I eventually pick for the feed to the amplifier. This won't be massive (my amp is not that powerful) maybe 16 sq mm. The breaker will be sized based on protecting the amp feed wire. This will provide little protection for the smaller circuits since they would fry before the breaker operates. This is no worse than the existing arrangement of unfused feeds at this point. I will also be tidying up any other wiring in the area, body grounds, alternator ground etc. The existing 6 sq mm wire to the ignition switch and 2 x 2.5 sq mm wires would all be terminated on the outgoing side of the breaker. I would also terminate my amp feed here. This brings me back to my query - who can show me their wiring in this area? Neat ideas for running and insulating these heavy current, unfused wires? How does your battery + cable run to your starter? Where is it all secured? Most cars seem to have pretty untidy wiring in this area. How did it come from the factory, bone stock? Who has done a similar mod as my proposal? Over to you.
  17. Hey guys, i am troubled and frustrated - I replaced my battery and voltage regulator (a nice Beru regulator and fitted autozone battery (Duralast?)) because initially it popped both my headlights and the same time whilst driving in the dark (fortunately my high-beams worked enough to get me home). i noticed my battery was puffy so that's when I replaced the reg. and bat. And headlights. This worked for 2 months and then my new battery literally exploded. Terrible egg smell, battery adic instantly corroded my battery tray and radiator. Once I got the battery out I gave my engine bay a baking soda scrub down and rinsed - fortunately autozone has excellent warranty coverage so I got a free battery and drove my car over to them to check the system- they said my 2 month old beru V-reg was dead and in the 1mi drive over to them it also killed the new battery the just gave me. So I replaced both again (oh yes, my headlights popped again...) anyways, all said and done, they have me the green light and said all systems were working properly and no over charge was occurring. I drove it for 3 days and low and behold my battery broke AGAIN. So so now I need help. Wtf is going on? I had my alternator rebuilt 3 years ago and it has never given me this trouble... and you'd think the v-reg would be doing its job but instead it just breaks. (Also, the atlatik automatic sunroof 73 as seen in pics is for sale. $3500 BaT -after rebuilding calipers and replacing master break cylinder I haven't bled the brakes... and some dummy pushed my break peddle and sucked a bunch of air in the lines. More pics if re-quested)
  18. Quick question (hopefully) regarding the dual-connection ground strap from negative terminal to intake manifold. The current ground strap I've got is split to attach to two ground points - the thicker one is to the intake manifold and the thinner one is to the side of the engine bay. I also have a third smaller ground strap going from the negative connection to the engine bay. I bought a replacement woven strap because the current is chewed up and filthy, but the replacement has only one connection. Is it necessary to have the dual-connection type strap? Even with the third cable I mentioned? Pics attached. My car is really hard to start when cold, so I'm hoping this helps/solves my issue. (If anyone has other suggestions or ways to diagnose the starting problem, please let me know. WUR functions properly, linkages are to spec, plugs are new-ish, new spark cables, new dizzy rotor and cap, and I followed the tune-up procedure in the Tii manual. Another thought is it could be the starter?)
  19. hey guys, I've been a lurker for a few years now on here and usually fix all my problems by research and reading. So i appreciate all the info and activity. However, I am having an issue that is troubling me. My car will not start and has no power to anything. So obviously I thought it was the battery. I jumped it and it started. Let it run for about 10 minutes, drove it a few hundred feet, killed it and again, absolutely no power from the battery. So i went and got a new battery, again, absolutely no power from the battery unless I jump it. WHAT IN THE WORLD!?!? i don't understand. any input or troubleshooting advice is much appreciated. thanks! Jeremy.
  20. Hey guys, this is my first trouble shoot topic I've posted (I've been extremely lucky so far since purchase in July). My issue is electrical related . Went to start the car the other day (morning, chilly 45F) turn the key and nothing. No dash lights, no head lights, no starter clicking. Had a neighbor come over for a jump and once we hooked up, turned the key and still no juice (head lamps, dash lights, starter, everything) after a few minutes just thinking it through I tried a last ditch attempt while the cars are still hooked up and the car fired up. Made it to work but that evening when i came back out again; same deal with no juice. I took the battery out (re-located to trunk by PO) and took it to Advance Auto for a health check. That battery proved OK. Wasnt a full charge, more like 75% but all cells were good. I had them put it on a slow charge until full and I'm going to hook it up to the car tomorrow to see what happens. If it turns out to not be battery related, any thoughts on what this could be? Fuse? Wiring? I don't mind hunting down the problem but, outside of the battery, I'm not sure where to start. Feel free to ask questions if I'm leaving anything out. Any help is appreciated. Joe
  21. I've researched the site and found that the Optima Redtop 34R is the way to go. I'm going that way, but the Optima battery site does not list it for the 1976 02 and the Autozone site says it won't fit the 2002? I've tried Advance Auto, Costco, and the Pepboys site, and they don't have the 34R. Advance Auto Parts had the 34, but not the 34R. Will the 34 fit? I hate ordering batteries online. My mechanic told me I should get an Optima Redtop for this new Motor. Any suggestions for a Optima Redtop 34R in San Antonio Texas?
  22. so with my car cold, i was checking on some electronics. and it looks like my alt ground might be compromised. also i attached a multimeter to my battery (car has not been driven in a few weeks). with my multimeter set to 200ACV it was reading 26.2. is that 26.2 volts?! if so. what is going on. could my alt ground be the culprit.
  23. Car has been running great this summer but while out for 2 hour drive last weekend it wouldn't start after a 10 minute stop. When I turned the key, it turned over once then stopped. I tried again but it just went click. Luckily I was on a flat piece of road so I was able to bump start it. As soon as I got home I grabbed my voltmeter and measured the voltage at the battery terminals while still running. I got 12.0 V at idle and 12.4 V when I revved the engine. I parked it then boosted it directly to the starter and block and then to the battery terminals. No difference, started right up which eliminated the starter. I then removed the battery and hooked it up to my Optimate 6 charger for 24 hours. Battery measured 12.56 V after charging. I put it back in the car and it started just fine. The voltage then measured 13.45 V at idle and dropped to 13.14 V at any RPM over idle then back up to 13.45 V at idle. It's a 2 year old Interstate Battery. I plan on taking it to my friend's shop Thursday morning. He'll poke around to see if he can sort it out.
  24. Howdy - so my car running a Weber 32/36 with sync link, 320i alternator and a new radiator with a fan. It keeps dying when I stop or turn slowly using the brakes - which started happening after my mechanic installed the new altealternar, radiator and fan last week. I've checked the float bowl level today, cleared the idle jets, swapped the fuel filter and synched the battery down. The engine doesn't stumble - it just clicks off and my alternator and oil lights come on. If I stop slowly enough it's fine, but any regular braking and boop she's off. No stumble. No violent lurch. It doesn't matter if I'm on a hill or not (live in San Francisco). The engine idles fine, and will easily sit all day happily idling. The engine also starts up fine when it dies, maybe it takes two quick cranks, but I'm always a little flustered by it. My thoughts are electrical related to the brake booster or possibly the fuel pump? But I don't starve the car at speed and the other day I had some very spirited hill climbing with no issue at all. I have a suspicion it's related to using the headlights - but that doesn't make since as it still happens when they're off. I just notice more at night. I let the engine warm up before heading out usually. Very curious.
  25. So I opened up a can of worms that the PO of my 74 Tii left me, It all stated with the alternator squeeling. I removed the battery to check out all the bushings and I found an alt that looked like the 318i upgrade but there was no PN/labels. It was cocked at least a good 5deg towards the engine because of the bushing he used to fill the space on the bracket. For my own sanity I decided to buy a new one from BRN that fit the Tii with no spacer: I cut the battery tray out and grabbed the stuff for battery relocation from an e30. However after they tray was out I could see a rats nest of wires the PO had added. I cut away all the junk that I could trace back, mostly to aftermarket mods. Now im left with stuff that im not quite sure about, if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be a huge help. First off, I have the old plug to my external voltage regulator which has the two blue wires cut and attached to a new plug: I assume this is safe to ditch? Secondly, the new plug: I assume I can just cut those blue wires off the crimp, solder a spade on and connect directly to my new alt D+ terminal? Lastly I have a ground that was bundled into this set of 3 black wires that goes into the harness down by the oil filter, any clue what they go to? Red and yellow are +/- for my alt, not in the same bundle.


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