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About floatinghead

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  1. So I worked on bending them back last night and they look pretty decent. The 3 mounting holes for the ball joint are all planar and seem to be parallel with the main line of the control arm which they were from the start. The outer edge of where the balljoint sits isn’t perfect but I didn’t want to over rev on bending to avoid stressing the metal. I’ll fit it up to a balljoint to see how it looks. I’ll also take the paint down at the bend line to look for cracks and hope it’s in good shape.
  2. No, my cars just a bit lowered on H&R springs. 14" wheels. I met with gracer today and he thought that maybe they got twisted while someone was changing the springs out at some point and let the struts lever them over. the fact that both sides were consistent made me think thats how they were supposed to be, but symmetrical it is. I'm trying to see if I can bend them back to straight before pulling the trigger on new ones. I'm getting close...
  3. this bums me out. just about to put this thing together. now need to hunt some down. new ones aren't cheap and I'm hoping i don't trash my bushings pushing them out.... I see that you're near Stuttgart. I might be south of there this winter. it was supposed to be this month, but well, not much traveling these days. Beautiful area!
  4. Hmm. Really? So they should look like the red lines? They awfully consistent. Why would they be bent like that? They’ve been on there for 18+ years... so should I order new ones? Damn if I didn’t put so much time into cleaning these things up...
  5. Thanks for the link. I used that as a resource when I started to take things apart. As the control arms aren't symmetrical, it's still hard to tell from the photos if I have the plane of the ball joint mounting surface correct. Is what I have shown ( as looking from the drivers seat) the correct control arm orientation or is it the wrong way and do i have the passenger side shown incorrectly on the drivers side? does that make sense? I'd hate to get things set up and mounted and then have it all wrong... thanks
  6. I lost the label for my control arms after painting and want to make sure they are installed correctly on the subframe. Pics are of what i thoughts was drivers side. My question is in the second pic the direction of the ball joint mount area. Is it "pointing " the right way? Just checking as its hard to see in diagrams or other people pics. thanks!
  7. Nope, it’s regular. I was curious of that as well when I got into it.
  8. I connected with "gracer" ( thank you!) over the weekend and put in a 0.3 & 0.1shim and the chain is not floppin around like it was. Also replaced the O ring. here's what its looking like now. Better? Now to get oil pan on and start getting the subframe back in! thanks for all you help, B 2002-oilpumpchain-improved.mov
  9. I might take you up on it! I cut up some soda cans and did a trial fit with 3 and the chain slack is much improved. I don’t have my calipers, so don’t know what the official stack up is. I’ll DM you later and we can go from there. thanks, baron
  10. Got it and I'll likely purchase a legit shim. It looks like I have one shim in there ( surprised that it doesn't sit flush with the pump and is kinda bowed in place), but as I've never been this close to the inside of the engine, its all I kind of new. Any tricks to getting the sprocket off (single nut)? I just start to spin the engine. It's not reverse thread is it?? Looked through threads but didn't see anything. Didn't want to take an impact wrench to it. thanks, B
  11. I’ll try and pull the pump tomorrow morning and see if it has a shim to trace or if I can make one. I like the beer can support!
  12. And at around $9 a shim, the beer equivalent will make a lot more shims
  13. Thanks for the replies. Paul, my chain does hit, so looks like I’m shimming. Can I loosen up the bolts and put a feeler gauge to see how many I’ll need? I’ve only seen the 0.1mm thickness online, not the 0.3mm. I’ll see what I can get through BMW as well. thanks, b
  14. 2002tii-oilpumpchain-052220.mov
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