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floatinghead

Solex
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portland,OR
  • Interests
    02's, music, playing the drums, drawing/making, learning to weld/fabricate and being outside with my family

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  1. I think the front are 15mm ( #3 on realeom) and the rear are 16mm (#13 on realeom). The illustration is confusing as both front and rear on the front suspension link.
  2. I also had a vibration/rattle sound and it too turned out to be an exhaust hanger that I could only diagnose when engine was at the right rpms. When I went to tighten it up, it actually was not loose at all to the touch, but i tightened it down anyway and the sound went away....
  3. Well, I dumped the new fluid I put in and replaced with the old fluid and I think i'm back in business. No strange noises and seems to shift well too, for now!
  4. 2007 mazda 5 -automatic. Leaking from pan most likely from being overfilled. Good chance it had been run quite a while with the wrong fluid. I decided to fix the leak, so drained, dropped pan, changed filter and then filled with 3 quarts of correct fluid. Started it up and it started to whine like crazy. not good at all. Thought maybe a pan bolt was loose, but not the case. maybe the filter was loose? probably not. I didn't realize clean fluid in an old, not well kept automatic was a not so good idea.... I'm going to try putting old fluid back as i'm not sure i have to lose by trying that. any ideas on what i can do or try, or am i screwed?
  5. Disclaimer: I realize this is a 2002 forum, but i've seen people part out e21's on here and the e21 board has only gotten me 3 scammers and is not near as active. Figure someone here may have a good lead. I'm in the PNW/Portland,OR if that matters. E21 Front Euro Bumper: looking for dent free/reasonably clean, but not a concous quality by any means as the car is a driver with its share of dents and scratches. E21 Instrument cluster enclosure: The large lens on mine is all crazed up, so would like a clean enclosure to transfer my gauges into. I do not need working gauges. thanks! Baron '73 2002tii - chamonix '82 320is - hennarot
  6. That happened to me a while back on the drivers side. My PO had some crude brackets for the seats which put some unnecessary forces on it. I had someone weld it and with the addition of a proper bracket it's been fine for years. Ironically, my ( new to me) e21 did the same thing last year and I fab'ed up a reinforcement that bolted in and is pretty solid.
  7. UPDATE: Got a new temp sender from Blunt and it looks like that was the culprit. thanks for all the input. Baron
  8. Hi there! I never received any notifications on this, so didn't realize there were posts to the thread. Been traveling and then without power in Portland, so car hasn't been touched in a bit. Ray_ I sent you a dm....:). Officially following up! Baron
  9. if this is the case, is it easier to just replace? New info: So with the wire at sender grounded, i can peg it into the red. I undid that and plugged the wire to sender as normal, I ran the engine till warm and it will move about an 1/8". I only noticed it when i turned it off and it dropped all the way down.
  10. i just tried this. turned ignition key, nothing. then gave the top of the cluster a few taps and it pegged all the way up. thanks for the tip. So must be a ground connection? maybe it was a bit stuck and also not getting a good ground? I will pull the sender and clean the threads then give it another go all connected.
  11. Temp gauge has died so looking to replace with a good working one. thanks, Baron
  12. ok, that sounds about right as i'm around 2250 ohms when cold. So looks like the sender is doing its thing. And the wire looks good, i'm guessing its the gauge. Does anyone repair these? and do the fuel/temp gauge come as a unit or separate? I don't really want an aftermarket, but could get one to at least keep me informed in the near term.
  13. Thanks for the responses. Paul, it sits at the bottom and doesn't move. Does anyone know what the resistance value range the temp gauge needs to read correctly? or at least begin showing movement o the gauge? mine when warmed up was around the 210 ohms ( i believe). If it is the gauge, are they available new or do i need to find one off the classified or other usual location?
  14. I know this topic has be covered in lots of different ways, and i've reviewed a number of posts on the FAQ, but I still don't have this working. So my temp gauge for a while was a bit spotty and would start out dead and then kinda "pop" up after a bit of driving. I recently completed a front subframe rebuild and now the temp gauge does not move. Fuel gauge and all others are fine. Things i've done: 1. Cleaned up ground on VR - sanded connector, screw and fender ( as i had painted wheel wells while subframe was out) 2. Checked Temp Sender: I have continuity from brass connection to aluminum manifold. Also checked resistance from connector to manifold and I get a change in resistance as it heats up and cools down. delta of a few hundred ohms. So it appears to be doing its job? 3. Wire Continuity: removed instrument cluster and wire appears to have continuity. I didn't pull wire from 12 pin socket, but stuck probe inside the pin 11 connector and to the wire end my sender. 4. Instrument grounds: PO installed a long clean lead from 2 nuts on instrument panel to a clean spot on the body. I checked continuity through these wires and they appeared solid. 5. Tried to "mockup" a new wire lead. Ran a wire from the sender and tried to connect to the pin on the instrument panel with a clip. Not sure this was valid or not to test, but didn't get any movement in the temp gauge. Also tried to slide a wire inside the pin on the connector, but didn't feel confident that was effective. Things to check? 1. battery ground: relatively new ( though with some corrosion on braided cable at neg lead) that attaches to block and a spot on battery tray. should this move to the body of the car? wasn't sure if the tray was a good spot. 2. remove sender and clean connection at aluminum to brass interface? 2. Saw a write up by Mike Self to strip the wire back a few inches back from the 12 pin connector and temporarily solder in a wire to see if that works. My "test" as done above may have not been a good enough connection...? Any other thoughts?
  15. Installed the subframe on Thursday and was able to take it for its "maiden" voyage on Sunday! Kind of exhausting but got it done! Connecting the steering column was a task and on my first drive out the driveway, the horn went off on its own with every slight shift the right, so need to get that ironed out. Otherwise, it drove great and happy to have it roadworthy again. Now on to the next little project... Baron
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