What did you do to your 2002 today !

[Fortlauderdalian]

Front subframe out and ready to rebuild 

[Leucadian]

Pulled the trigger on some beautiful wheels I've been coveting for some time....

 

 

 

[JohnS]

On 4/19/2023 at 4:13 PM, 0257 said:

 

 First tip I have: use a circlip-type wrench to loosen the collar nut.  That metal is so soft that if you tap it loose with a punch you risk distorting the inner edge.

 

Why not use the awesome special tool that's included in the kit for removing the cap on the WUR?

Edited April 21, 2023 by JohnS

[0257]

17 minutes ago, JohnS said:

Why not use the awesome special tool that's included in the kit for removing the cap on the WUR?

Shows you how far I am into this project!

[joebarthlow]

After a couple months in the body shop, I drove my 2002 home today with a new front panel. Next up: paint and finish the bumpers

[sczapiga]

Installed some vinyl number plate backs to add to my vintage rally feel for the car. Had my dad make them with his plotter and they turned out really good 👍🏼 

[d.hitchcock]

New 02 sensor for the Innovate wideband setup, new fuel filter, replaced heater valve, got downpipe welded up, and ordered parts for the tranny-based exhaust hanger, did a quick wash and ceramic spray n shine. Then I drove and drove and drove ...

Pic added just because ... 🙂

[D.martijn]

Friday I went to the workshop after work to start prepping the right front floor. 

I also test fitted the left outer sill now that the rear shocktower and outer wheel well are fitted.

Fit is pretty good, we'll have to mount the door again first (MVP new doors) and probably also the stainless steel trim? to check fitment.

 

We did have to trim a little bit of the rear side of the inner sill (we did this before we mounted the rear shocktower panel) when checking things out regarding the placement of everything. Is this something other people needed to do as well? Touring specific? as the rear arches are different than the sedans?

 

Inside of the framerail cleaned out, removed the surface rust and some old paint. Decided to use Brunox to treat the bare steel. 

 

Today I went back and started with painting the inside with a coat of corroless as well as the floor got corroless where the framerails sits.

 

 

Before welding in the floor panel, I needed to replace the lower two clips for the firewall insulation pad.

One had broken off and the other was a little rusty/old

 

Then it was time to weld in the floor! Butt welding the new panel to the existing floor. It's not possible to use the spot welder to reach the flange that sits against the firewall so those will need to get plug welded.

 

I decided to use the spotwelder to weld the frame rail to the floor panel. However there was some gap between the frame rail and new floor. I had to get a little inventive to close said gap.

 

 

I still need to do a couple of spotwelds at the front but will need some assistance from my brother to do those.. 

As well as grinding down the welds, that will be for next weekend!

 

Floor ain't going no where, good weld penetration

[autokunst]

Today I was able to fix the window lifter.  I am re-posting the previous photo showing the breaking pot metal spring retainer.  Old:

 

I removed that and installed a machined steel replacement piece made by a very talented friend.  The window now rolls down and back up like new.  Of course, most of the project involved cleaning the guide tracks for the window and lubing them fresh.  

 

I also installed a vapor barrier.  This was missing from the door when I opened it up.  Unfortunately the door card showed evidence of this - it was water stained and floppy.  Although it was difficult to do so, I resisted the urge to replace it.  This isn't a restoration (yet).  So I put everything back together and washed the window of my greasy fingerprints.  On to the next task...

[stephers]

Good trick to stiffen up the cardborad door panel is to use a fibreglass resin/ hardener only and coat the back side.      will get rid of the floppiness and give it just one more layer of protection.

 

Thanks, Rick 

[der Heilerin]

Not much actively going on, as I’m researching which type of garage lift for the garage. Two post vs four. Mostly to help with any underbody maintenance and general work. 
 

Though one question I have is what’s the best way to firm up a loose, or rather slightly wiggly door handle?  I’d rather baby it and firm it up than risk tweaking the sheet metal or chipping the paint. 

[Fortlauderdalian]

After starting to disassemble the front sub frame I’m seeing just how well worn it is. My question is it better to just bite the bullet and buy new tie rods, arms and the odds and ends? 

[2002iii]

3 hours ago, Fortlauderdalian said:

After starting to disassemble the front sub frame I’m seeing just how well worn it is. My question is it better to just bite the bullet and buy new tie rods, arms and the odds and ends? 

Yes! You can buy complete tie rod arms from Meyle from fcpeuro for $60. Rockauto has some good deals on steering parts too.

[zambo]

Nothing special - just did my first fuel tank clean and reseal with KBS product. Turned out OK I think. Will dry overnight. Have the KBS Rust Seal paint in satin black and  just tossing up whether to do the base of the tank in some Sika rubber chip resistant product and just the top in the paint. Decisions, decisions 

[its55]

9 hours ago, der Heilerin said:

Not much actively going on, as I’m researching which type of garage lift for the garage. Two post vs four. Mostly to help with any underbody maintenance and general work. 
 

Though one question I have is what’s the best way to firm up a loose, or rather slightly wiggly door handle?  I’d rather baby it and firm it up than risk tweaking the sheet metal or chipping the paint. 

 

I believe there's a screw for it that you can see when you open the door.  If that's snug then its the little bolt which can only be accessed by removing the door card.  There should be some special washers for each as well.