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autokunst

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Everything posted by autokunst

  1. Had a long list of things to do to Stuart this winter. So far, only completed one task - replacing the noisy long neck differential. Some of you may have seen a different thread where I replaced the original 4.10 diff with a 3.64 from an early 2002. I loved the gearing, but the unit I bought on ebay was not good. I feel lucky to got about 1,400 miles out of it without incident (save for the noise). I searched high and low for another 3.64 long neck since. I bought one or two spares in recent months with the wrong gearing thinking I'd rebuild the one I had with donor parts. But Ben at 2002AD came through with a good 3.64 unit that I finally put in yesterday. Today was a modest 14 mile test drive to listen for anything. No diff noises so far. The same car noises (other items on that winter list I didn't get to). There's always next year. If anyone needs a known good 4.10 long neck, please reach out. I have a shelf full of them!
  2. Wow, wow! Absolutely beautiful. I am humbled by your good fortune.
  3. Last summer I had my '68 1600-2 out. Stopped at a light, a modern BMW pulled up next to me. The guy was revving his engine, then rolled his window down and started talking: "what year is that, '84? '85?". I replied "'68". He looked at my like I was joking with him, and asked again: "what year?" I replied "1968". He looked away, kept revving his engine. The light turned green and he squealed his tires through the intersection. I still think he doesn't believe me - but I really don't care. And I wave at any BMW E30 or earlier.
  4. Yes, Evaporust does come in a gel version. Do you think the Rustyco is a similar formulation (a chelating agent)?
  5. I have a folding model from Eastwood. A few bucks more than the HF option, but it has worked well for me. The model I have has legs that fold up so it is much easier to store in my overcrowded garage.
  6. It was time to tuck Stuart away for the salty winter. The previous owner provided the cover and this was the first time I pulled it out of the box. To my surprise, I found the original lug wrench! Too bad I hunted one down over the summer. Now I have two. The last drive of the year was a group fall drive through a lot of twisty rural Wisconsin roads. On that drive, the steering wheel felt a little loose, and it clicked/rattled whenever changing direction. It didn't feel right and it was on my list to investigate. I checked the main 19mm nut and it was tight, but something was clicking back and forth. I pulled the wheel off and discovered that the hub is a two piece affair and two of the five allen screws had already fallen out. The other three were loose. This could have been VERY bad. Just a word of caution. I purchased this hub from eBay. I think it is well made and I like it. But if you happen to get one, make sure you check the assembly. I cleaned everything up and used thread locker when I put it back together.
  7. I do not know what the springs you have are for (car, duty level). But I believe L&P were the spring manufacturer for BMW at the time. These are from my 1968 1600, believed to be original to the car. L&P 68114H. You will see two colored stripes on each spring. What appears to be white and brown was likely once white and red, which represent HD rear springs for my 1968 1600 (it was fitted with a factory trailer hitch).
  8. The Chicago '02 group did a fall drive through the colorful and not all that straight roads of SE Wisconsin yesterday. Good turnout with seven '02s and a few other cars to round out the group. Amy and I joined through the lunch stop, clocking 155 miles of smiles. Given this isn't California, we don't see too many 2002s out in the wild. But oddly enough, on our way home from the official drive, we passed another '02. What are the chances... Thanks to the organizers and route masters for a wonderful day.
  9. That looks amazing. I never heard of this product. Is it a coating over the corrosion? Or does it remove/replace the corrosion? Or maybe you wire wheeled the manifold clean before applying? Sorry for so many questions - it looks so good. Thanks for posting the before and after photos.
  10. Hey Steve, Without seeing the car in person, I can't be sure - but what you are describing sounds like it might just be the turn signal cancelation ring/pin being misadjusted or in the wrong position. I had to fix that on my car and now it works every time. Of course, it could be the stalk, but some adjustment may solve everything. As far as the dash light flashing, that could be the flasher unit. I did the EL-13 upgrade and haven't looked back. Stephen
  11. Beautiful, John! Looking forward to more pics.
  12. I found a driveshaft local to me, but it is for a 1969 2002 with automatic transmission. I know this is definitely the wrong part, but how wrong is it? Rebuildable to fit? Perhaps that is too hasty. I will keep looking for the correct one...
  13. Thank you for that confirmation!!! I have posted a WTB for the correct drive shaft. Fingers crossed I can save one from salvage.
  14. Looking for a 1968 +/- 2002 driveshaft that would have been mated to a long neck differential (shorter driveshaft). This should have a 4-bolt pattern on each end for 8-hole guibo. Hoping someone is changing their early 2002 to a short neck diff and is no longer in need of the short driveshaft. Maybe you already did and have this taking up space in your garage. Thanks in advance!
  15. Thanks to everyone for the great and consistent feedback. I know that I have a mechanical clutch in the car, and I understand that the '73 would have had a hydraulic clutch setup. I want to stay with the mechanical system - but have not researched what any of that means yet. I had assumed that my mechanical pedal and cable setup, along with the clutch (or a replacement while I'm in there) would simply transfer over to the newer transmission. Is that a correct assumption, or are there factors that make that difficult/undoable (frankenclutch)? If I am deciphering the comments correctly, and exclusive of the clutch situation which I have yet to understand, I feel my two viable options are: Option 1 - Just rebuild my transmission at cost, and use the current driveshaft. Live happily ever after. Option 2 - Try to find a 1968 2002 driveshaft and use that along with the '73 transmission. I am assuming that the 4-bolt flange pattern is the same at the front of the '68 drive shaft and the back of the '73 trans. Yes? I assume this may involve a new, later center bearing? Or a rare '68 2002 center bearing? I will begin a search on the clutch topic so I can learn more about what I don't know on that. Thank you!
  16. The problem with my question is that I'm not entirely sure what I am asking. But I trust that folks on the forum will read between the lines and hopefully steer me in the right direction. My 1968 1600-2 falls into the top secret, voodoo category of "early 1600 cars", and has those funky bits and pieces that all the rest of the 02s do not have. I love this, but it makes for difficult searches when looking for info sometimes. I recently swapped my original 4.11 long neck diff with a 3.64 long neck diff from a 1968 2002. Despite the higher gearing and lower torque/power of the 1600 engine, I love the combination. When I did that swap, I needed to use the 3-bolt flange from my 4.11 diff on the 3.64 diff because came to me with a 4-bolt flange. I was surprised at this given they were both '68,but that's what I have. My 4-speed transmission is in need of work. It does not like going into 1st gear, and 2nd isn't a picnic either. I was preparing to send it out for work when I learned a friend has a 4-speed transmission and driveshaft from their '73 2002. Relatively low mileage, no noises, easy shifting. This would be a much more cost effective "solution" to my transmission issues than rebuilding the original. I can put the 4-bolt flange back on the diff to mate with his 4-bolt driveshaft. However, the driveshaft will still be too long because the '73 had the short neck diff. So my question: is the solution to use his driveshaft but have it shortened (and balanced) to fit with the long neck diff? Or do the drive shaft halves work such that I can use the front piece from one DS and the rear piece from the other, thus creating a 4-bolt/3-bolt Frankenstein shaft? Is that even a thing? I don't have the parts here in front of me, so I can't try fitting the square pegs into the round holes yet. Any other bogies I should look out for? I appreciate your input!
  17. If I'm not mistaken, I believe a 1973 would have come with a trapezoid mirror, but it seems that about 99% of cars replaced their trap mirrors with flag mirrors almost immediately. My guess is that the dealers were giving them away like candy from a dish back then. Can anyone confirm this (the first part, not the candy dish)?
  18. I had this Momo Prototipo wheel just sitting on the shelf as a display, so I decided to install it on Stuart. The wheel represents the direction I am gently trying to take this car - period correct sport mods. The wheel is not in great shape, but that is part of the charm. It looks like it could have been on the car since 1972. 😀 This wheel was on my coupe when I bought it eight years ago. Perhaps it was on that car nearly that long.
  19. Hi John, I'm watching this closely as I need the same for my 1600. Looking forward to learning what you find. Stephen
  20. Thank you @Pramono and @Buckeye for the suggestions. I'll give that document a good study and then open the door up to have a look see. Will report back what I learn.
  21. Thank you for the dimension. It gives me a data point to work towards. I purchased these from Maximillian Importing Company several months ago.
  22. Ah yes, that was a thought I had as well. I don't know much about the history of this car, but I do know the doors were missing the vapor barrier when it came to us (therefore, fussed with). If in fact the tops of the door halves are "spread apart", I wonder if I can cinch them back together. Regarding adjusting the glass tracks. My concern is that it won't seal at the top anymore. Plus, it does touch the inner felt strip so the alignment appears reasonably correct. Anyone else ever experienced this?
  23. The rubber seals on my doors were cracked and some sections missing. Realizing that rain would just wash down the glass and into the doors, I endeavored to replace the "squeegee" seal. I ended up getting all new door trim pieces with the outer seal in place. It was a quick install, but the new rubber squeegee is is about 2mm from the glass. That is as useless as the original cracked seals (maybe worse!). Did I install this incorrectly (is there a trick)? Or do the new seals just not work well? Any advice appreciated! Here is the part I replaced. Here is the wide open gap with the new part.
  24. One quick update. Last night I picked up a Novita EL-13 flasher and did the 4-pin to 3-pin conversion. This is working great (including the dash indicator bulb). With this more modern technology flashing unit, I trust my blinker woes are behind me. Special thanks to Don Lawrence for pointing me to the solution. I'd read about this before, but evidently I need to be led to the water directly. 😀
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