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About JohnS

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  1. Looks beautiful. So, this is not OEM trim from BMW? The rear corners appear to fit well. I know that this was a problem area for many with later production trim from BMW. That's awesome. Good job Blunt and nice job on your car. Now throw some Pirelli CN36's on that baby... Just kidding 😀
  2. I paid $4500 for my '74 Fjord tii back in 1986. It was advertised in the San Jose Mercury newspaper. I remember that there were a couple of tiis for sale in that paper and also a black 2002ti. Those were the days...
  3. They also sell adjustable internal regulators. What I did was convert a high AMP alternator that was internally regulated by replacing the brush module with the plug type so I could use the external regulator and not change the wiring harness. Plus the adjustable external regulator was easier to adjust when it's on the side of the engine bay instead of on the alternator.
  4. I miss my coupe. Sold to a friend. I know it's in good hands though... Miss the smooth power of the M30 and the growl of it. '74 3.0 csi (all stock D-Jetronic Injection) Hardy & Beck Suspension (which was perfectly balanced for the car). Those two cars (Named Orange & MarshMellow) were good buddies for a long while 😊
  5. The last new OEM green windshield that I saw was made by Pilkington. Only difference is the little BMW logo on the OEM one when compared with generic Pilkington.
  6. If you're still using an alternator with the original external type of voltage regulator. You can buy adjustable external regulators too. I had one on a '74 3.0 csi that I used to own. They work great. You hook up a volt meter on your battery and then turn a little screw on the bottom of the external voltage regulator to either increase or decrease the voltage until it's reading around 14 volts at the battery while the car is idling. https://www.240turbo.com/AdjustableVoltage.html#external
  7. That video made my day. Your excitement is contagious! Thanks for sharing 😊
  8. I 2nd the Pete's Gearshop recommendation. Had a 4-speed rebuilt by them about 10 years ago. No issues since.
  9. Toward the bottom of the thread in this link, I explain the size of the heater valve O-rings and the place where I purchased them from in case you're interested. Good luck, John Link:
  10. That looks fricken awesome. I want to have a couple of valve covers done now.
  11. The main point I was trying to get across is that the coil is what requires the matching resistor. Otherwise the coil is receiving more voltage than it's designed to be supplied with. So you're overloading the coil (boosting it) and therefore "it might" burn out prematurely. That's all. I understand that the coil is designed to handle the "boosting" for short periods of time (like during starting), but not ALL the time. Otherwise, why did BMW include the ballast and circuit to bypass it during starting in their design? As one of our friends here always says, "but what do I know". 😉 My red coil is red and Made in Germany, but I'm older than the coil 🙂
  12. Yes, I understand that the Pertronix requires 3 ohms (or more) resistance and that the 123 doesn't. But, these coils have been around long before these electronic ignitions/triggers even existed. They (the coils) are designed to run with less than 12 volts and the resistor had nothing to do with whether or not a given electronic ignition required a certain amount of resistance. The whole idea was that they could run at a lower voltage and then be boosted with more voltage during the starting cycle. They didn't have Pertronix or 123 in 1973. I'm done. Good luck, John
  13. Weird. The whole idea behind the external resistor is to drop down the voltage for the coil while the car is running. That way when starting, the ballast gets bypassed and the coil gets boosted with the full 12 volts during starting. I still contend that the "red" coil is designed to run continuously with less than 12 volts. You've probably already seen this, but... Glad it's working for you without the resistor. I'll keep the 1.8 resistor with my red coil and Pertronix. It's been working great for over 20 years now. Good luck, John
  14. Did you also bypass the 0.9 ohm resistance wire that's built into the wiring harness on the later square tail regular (non-tii) 2002 cars? Running a "red" coil without the 1.8 ohm resistor isn't recommended. You're essentially overloading your coil with more voltage that's it's designed to run with. This will lead to premature coil failure. The "red" coil is designed to run continuously with less than 12 volts (hence the resistor). Does your coil get hot after you drive for a while?
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