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JohnS

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  1. Same story here Paul. Car ran fine for years with Blue coil + resister. The red coils (especially the old ones that were red) just look cooler 😉
  2. This on Fuel Injection Corp's online store: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-Fuel-Pump-0-580-464-011-18-Month-Warranty-Core-Credit-of-100-Offered/301036242487?epid=1023566439&hash=item4617288637:g:pC4AAOxy3NBSoQS-
  3. Good thread on the topic from Jim Gerock way back when: You can retrofit the bottom section of your old style shift lever with the newer style lower parts. I just rebuilt a lever from a '76, but the idea is the same for an older style shift lever. The upper threaded piece where the knob attaches are the same. Also note that I've found that the common "short shift BMW Z3 lever" is a little wide to fit in the IE dual shear thingy, you would probably have to sand down the sides of the bushing a little to get a nice tight fit. Stock lever fits fine. Good luck
  4. That's a pretty clear picture. + 2780517 + Respect! 🤐
  5. Sounds to me like the thieves have some knowledge about these weird 40 something year old cars... Was going to say that I'll keep an eye out at the Santa Cruz flea market, but now I see it happened in Tahoe. Good luck
  6. This thread is timely as I'll be replacing the guibo and driveshaft on my '74 over this upcoming "holiday" weekend. Thanks for all of the great tips guys. Luckily I already sprung for the proper BMW bolts and locknuts and also for a BMW branded guibo (which wasn't cheap). I just hope that the output flange on my transmission didn't get buggered up during the guibo explosion. I know the flange on my driveshaft is toast. 😣
  7. I happen to have both a new clutch master and some of the 34311103205 grommets on hand. I just verified that the grommets are the same as what came in the new clutch master... But what do I know?
  8. I believe it uses the same grommet as the older style brake master that used the smaller grommets (17mm outer diameter, 8mm inner diameter). That part number is: 34311103205 The trick to installing the line is to have the clutch master out of the car when you install the pipe. That's probably not what you want to hear. Hopefully someone else knows a "better" trick. Good luck
  9. Barney, you might want to either ditch the ballast resister with the blue coil, or else keep the resister and get a red coil... unless I'm mistaken and that blue coil isn't the kind I'm familiar with which have an internal resistance of 3.3 ohms and don't require an external resister. Car looks awesome! Great job!
  10. I use that same type of double spade connector on the input side of my '73's ballast resister to provide clean power to my Pertronix.
  11. I actually broke a plastic nipple off of a new fluid reservoir trying to get some new blue hose on it. I had it lubed up pretty good with brake fluid too. That's when I switched. Even the black hose isn't "easy" to get on, but at least it isn't impossible. There's probably a trick that I'm missing...
  12. Belmetric has it: https://www.belmetric.com/brake-hose-oem-c-14_844/ I actually prefer the black Continental brand hose. I've found it easier to get onto the plastic nipples on the fluid reservoir and on the plastic elbows on the brake master. But some folks like the blue for the original look.
  13. I have one here part # 64-21-1-353-368 small end (input heater valve) ID = 17mm large end (connects to block) ID = 20mm


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