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joebarthlow

Kugelfischer
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About joebarthlow

  • Birthday September 18

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  1. Quarantine therapy at 100mph
  2. LOL FFS people. Be smart about your purchases.
  3. those use to be in my car. the PO sold them off and left the rear seat. I eventually sold the rear, after hoping these would show back up. too late... bummer. A guy in Eugene has the rear seat. I might have his name still...
  4. Mystery solved! It was the ground to the block. the connection at the block was rusty and greasy. I cleaned it up and reattached it. Fired right up with lights. I have the new ground cable ordered. Thanks everyone for your input! Quite helpful!
  5. I just attached a jumper cable from the negative terminal to the body. I was able to get the lights to come on. I'm wondering if perhaps the lone ground failed and damaged the starter on startup yesterday. I'm guessing there is something wrong with my negative cable. I'm going to disconnect it, clean up the end and reconnect to see it it makes a difference.
  6. I pulled the battery, performed a load test. cleaned and tightened the terminal connections. Nothing. no power what so ever, turn key or no turn key. fuses 1 and 2 get power, but none of the lights come on. the only thing I get is a low rumble when I push the hazard button, but no lights. I checked with the voltmeter and there is power from the battery to the starter. so maybe a ground or lack or ground somewhere?
  7. in December I replaced the cable between the starter and battery as that cable broke at the battery. cleaned up the connections. I drive the car 3-4 times/week during winter and did fine. then last week, while out, on start-up, it slowly turned over a couple times with no start. then nothing. Towed home. put the battery on the charger all night. nothing, no start. Took it to my local shop I trust with older BMWs. They diagnosed the starter and determined it was toast. The starter was old, possibly original. It seemed to also turn a little slow (to the ear). We installed the new starter and it immediately sounded good on startup, like what I would expect, until this morning, when it turned over and died. Now I am wondering if the lack of proper ground (one to the block, none to the body) actually zapped the starter with the new connection? Killed both starters? Hmmm. Not sure if that explains why I have no power.
  8. Sounds like a plan, I shall do that in the morning. I have the battery on the charger over night. I'll also check connections to starter and alternator. clean battery terminals. I'm a little suspicious since most of that was just disconnected. I'll order a nw braided ground cable too. I'll report back. thanks
  9. 46 months on a 60 month battery. The battery checked OK on Wednesday when the starter was installed.
  10. I'm going to clean the battery terminals and recheck all the wires leading to the starter and see it helps. Before replacing the the lead from the battery to the starter and eventually replacing the starter itself, I experienced a couple of times where my battery needed a charge. I chalked it up to freezing temps. not so sure now. Perhaps I should check my alternator to see if it's charging the battery. not sure how to do that. I'll order a new braided grounding cable, but I've been running like this for a few years. here's the reading I got. sorry, not a digital multimeter. my battery charger says 2 amp
  11. Battery is dead, no lights at all. I put it on the charger for a few hours. turn the key and the ignition lights came on. turned to crank it and it began to crank then completely shut off, no power again, no lights. battery charger said less than 1 amp. The big ground looks good (not braided type), but there is no ground to the body from the black terminal.
  12. Installed a new starter on Wednesday. Started it 5-6 times since. This morning got a half crank, then nothing. all power gone. no lights, no crank. fuses looked OK. Obvious connections (battery, starter) look fine. Put a charger on the battery and it said 3 amps. Bad ground to the battery?


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