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02Pilot

Solex
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Everything posted by 02Pilot

  1. Depends on the film. Portra has a lot of DR and tremendous latitude for overexposure. Digital has gotten better over the years, but in my experience most negative film exceeds digital in both DR and latitude. I find I have to shoot digital almost like slide film to get decent results without endless manipulation.
  2. Nice shots. Film is where it's at. I don't have a lot of photos of my car, but plenty of car photos. My car: A few others: Let me know if you're looking for any tips or advice on particular techniques.
  3. Yeah, this. Either full cage and harnesses or forget it. Half-assed unpadded roll bars are a whole collection of bad ideas.
  4. Almost anything you do to make it more of a track car will make it less of a road car and almost certainly cause you to drive it less, not more. Climbing over door bars and sitting in fixed-back racing seats gets old fast. If you want a track car that's fine, but don't delude yourself into thinking you'll get more seat time (unless you sleep on a Scrooge McDuck-scale pile of money, in which case this whole discussion is moot). Do anything that needs to be done, and anything that will add to the reliability of the car, and drive the damn thing whenever you can.
  5. Clear communication and methodical diagnostics will go a long way to making this simple. Do you have spark? What is the battery voltage? Is there fuel in the carburetors? Is the engine trying to catch and failing or just spinning? First establish which system is failing, then work on what part is at fault.
  6. Fuel, air, and spark. You say plenty of fuel, but where? In the tank or in the float bowls? Assuming air, since you don't need much to start and idle, and it would be unlikely for rodents to fill all four throats in a couple months. Voltage? Are you using a jump box or charger? If so, have you verified spark?
  7. I've seen them cracked like that before. Not sure what causes it, but it's not unheard of. I've welded a couple without issues.
  8. Yeah, it's me - I took a little break. Still driving the same car, though it looks a bit different these days: I like the name you've given it - too bad it won't fit on a vanity plate. Good to see you around too, and back at Max. Just like old times.
  9. I knew it wasn't 100%, but I didn't realize it was that bad. I guess I haven't been bitten by the inaccuracies yet. I'll have to crawl under my car and see which muffler is on there. In the event I only wanted the resonator, what's the going rate? Either way any exhaust upgrade is going to be contingent on how my money my suspension demands be spent on it....
  10. What are the part numbers on these? Realoem seems to show the same p/ns for tii and non-tii as far as I can tell. Is there a difference I'm missing? I've got a factory muffler (got the check the p/n on it to know exactly which version) and have considered replacing the muffler shop intermediate pipe and resonator with the OE piece.
  11. Mine's been safely tucked in the garage since the beginning of December. Winter is time to work on the car, unheated garage and ~20F temps be damned. Just finished some maintenance, reworking some wiring, throwing in a new starter, rebuilding the carbs, and port-matching the intake. Probably rip the interior out next to clean up a few things, then once it starts to warm up a little go over the suspension - it's been in there for 20+ years, so it's probably due for some work. Hopefully it's ready to go when the roads clear in the spring.
  12. The front end is the best of it. The rear, well, let's just say they lost the plot somewhere along the line. Really need to see a hardtop version of it, but I suspect no such beast exists.
  13. The approach I took for the driving lights was to tap power to energize their relay off the out from the high beam relay; this way the driving lights only work with the highs, and are automatically switched on or off with them, provided their dedicated interior switch is on. You do the same for the fogs with the low beams if you wish, though this eliminates the possibility of use the fog lights exclusively. There are unused connections in the fuse box that you can tap for primary power, or you can pull directly off the starter and use a modern relay with an integral blade fuse. No reason to go all the way back to the trunk for the battery. Work out a plan of exactly how you want the lights to function, then use that to figure out the wiring. Relay everything.
  14. Couple of 2x4s to spread the load on the oil pan as much as you can, jack it up carefully, and go.
  15. "Right" is an interesting term with a rather broad range of meanings. Assuming you mean "finished to a personally satisfactory standard," I'd suggest you take your time and money estimates, whatever they are, and double them. My car is not right, will never be right, and I don't care. I deal with whatever needs to be dealt with, and other stuff gets worked on when I feel like it. If I get it too right I'll never drive it. As to how much money I've thrown into it, well, those records are permanently sealed.
  16. Mine were purchased many, many years ago, and failed many years ago, so perhaps the foam has been upgraded since then. I cleaned and oiled mine as part of normal maintenance - that's when I discovered the failing foam (it was on the underside). Not sure how long I had them for, but they went in the garbage. I never really liked them as a proper solution, but as an expedient they're OK, I guess.
  17. I replied to this earlier but my words seem not to have made it through the ether... In any case, what I said was that those Uni filters tend to disintegrate over time. If you go that route, make sure you check them often to ensure that the foam hasn't started falling apart.
  18. IIRC I used brake cleaner and a stiff brush for the stubborn stuff.
  19. Yeah, I only use power for disassembly, with a couple of exceptions. The little right-angle ratchets only do up to around 30 ft-lbs, so if I'm going much higher than that there's no harm in cinching it down before hand-tightening. A nice feature of the new Milwaukee M12 stubby impact is that it has a mode that spins a nut on to 10 ft-lbs and stops, which is really handy for things like lug nuts.
  20. Makes me miss my 533i. Whenever you get around to swapping in the manual, consider dropping in a 3.73LSD from an E30 325is. I did that on my car - it really woke it up, and the increased RPM wasn't obtrusive.
  21. They are entertaining cars. A buddy had a couple of them. Given the condition of that one, if it were me I'd do shocks/struts, new suspension bushings all around, poly stiffeners in the rear subframe bushings, and 15" wheels, nothing more (except basic maintenance, of course - don't forget about the timing belt). If you absolutely have to lower it, don't go crazy.
  22. I've been tempted by these more than once for a (very low) budget rebuild on the spare block that's been sitting in my garage forever. Interested in hearing more reports.
  23. Doesn't exactly qualify as a "beauty shot" but here's mine on the move this summer, courtesy of our all-seeing overlords at Google.
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