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02Pilot

Solex
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Everything posted by 02Pilot

  1. The front end is the best of it. The rear, well, let's just say they lost the plot somewhere along the line. Really need to see a hardtop version of it, but I suspect no such beast exists.
  2. The approach I took for the driving lights was to tap power to energize their relay off the out from the high beam relay; this way the driving lights only work with the highs, and are automatically switched on or off with them, provided their dedicated interior switch is on. You do the same for the fogs with the low beams if you wish, though this eliminates the possibility of use the fog lights exclusively. There are unused connections in the fuse box that you can tap for primary power, or you can pull directly off the starter and use a modern relay with an integral blade fuse. No reason to go all the way back to the trunk for the battery. Work out a plan of exactly how you want the lights to function, then use that to figure out the wiring. Relay everything.
  3. Couple of 2x4s to spread the load on the oil pan as much as you can, jack it up carefully, and go.
  4. "Right" is an interesting term with a rather broad range of meanings. Assuming you mean "finished to a personally satisfactory standard," I'd suggest you take your time and money estimates, whatever they are, and double them. My car is not right, will never be right, and I don't care. I deal with whatever needs to be dealt with, and other stuff gets worked on when I feel like it. If I get it too right I'll never drive it. As to how much money I've thrown into it, well, those records are permanently sealed.
  5. Mine were purchased many, many years ago, and failed many years ago, so perhaps the foam has been upgraded since then. I cleaned and oiled mine as part of normal maintenance - that's when I discovered the failing foam (it was on the underside). Not sure how long I had them for, but they went in the garbage. I never really liked them as a proper solution, but as an expedient they're OK, I guess.
  6. I replied to this earlier but my words seem not to have made it through the ether... In any case, what I said was that those Uni filters tend to disintegrate over time. If you go that route, make sure you check them often to ensure that the foam hasn't started falling apart.
  7. IIRC I used brake cleaner and a stiff brush for the stubborn stuff.
  8. Yeah, I only use power for disassembly, with a couple of exceptions. The little right-angle ratchets only do up to around 30 ft-lbs, so if I'm going much higher than that there's no harm in cinching it down before hand-tightening. A nice feature of the new Milwaukee M12 stubby impact is that it has a mode that spins a nut on to 10 ft-lbs and stops, which is really handy for things like lug nuts.
  9. Makes me miss my 533i. Whenever you get around to swapping in the manual, consider dropping in a 3.73LSD from an E30 325is. I did that on my car - it really woke it up, and the increased RPM wasn't obtrusive.
  10. They are entertaining cars. A buddy had a couple of them. Given the condition of that one, if it were me I'd do shocks/struts, new suspension bushings all around, poly stiffeners in the rear subframe bushings, and 15" wheels, nothing more (except basic maintenance, of course - don't forget about the timing belt). If you absolutely have to lower it, don't go crazy.
  11. I've been tempted by these more than once for a (very low) budget rebuild on the spare block that's been sitting in my garage forever. Interested in hearing more reports.
  12. Doesn't exactly qualify as a "beauty shot" but here's mine on the move this summer, courtesy of our all-seeing overlords at Google.
  13. Oh yeah, forgot one thing: flashlights. I carry two, a Petzl headlamp and a Nebo Big Larry work light. The latter is nice and bright, has a magnetic base that actually holds it in place (within reason - gravity is a harsh mistress), and has a flashing red emergency mode that's reassuring when you're stuck on a dark road with traffic flowing by.
  14. That's cheap (if it holds up). I have the Milwaukee unit as well, and I agree that it's a great tool. The biggest issue with cordless tools is the batteries, so it makes a lot of sense to stay with one system. Does Husky offer other useful stuff that uses the same batteries? Oh, and for those in the Milwaukee universe, the new M12 3/8" stubby impact is fantastic. 250 ft-lbs on a 12v battery.
  15. Going to take a measurement in the morning and see if I can use these. Stand by.
  16. I just went through a major tool reorganization (both garage and car) this summer, and arrived at most of the same conclusions regarding the trunk essentials that you did, Paul. I will offer one additional development with which I am particularly pleased: tool rolls. After struggling with several box arrangements, I decided to search for alternate solutions and came upon a near-perfectly sized tool roll (I'm still using a small box for spares). I filled mine with a mixture of old German and American tools, most of which became available as a result of the garage reorganization and some new tool purchases. I went with 3/8" sockets (they're in a dedicated set of pockets on the right side of the roll), but otherwise it's pretty close to what you've got. Rolled up it tucks nicely into the corner of the trunk where the jack used to reside (I carry a scissor jack I scavenged out of an old VW). Here's the link in case anyone's interested: https://www.amazon.com/1173-Pocket-Socket-Tool-Pouch/dp/B000KKUTCY
  17. I suspect we may define "fun to drive" differently. I've driven a few of the X-models over the years, and none have impressed me. I found them universally too heavy and too tall, and the interiors are less Teutonic and more Toyota. I'm sure yours is capable, especially with the manual, and I hope you continue to enjoy it. But I won't be looking for one.
  18. There's no amount of prep that will save a 2002 from rapidly disintegrating from the massive amounts of salt they dump on the roads in NY. By February it looks like Bonneville around here. And the less said about the X3 (or the X1, or the X5, or...) the better.
  19. Yes. So would the 135i. You really don't want to deal with the headaches of the turbos (especially on the earlier N54), direct injection (it takes how many hours to remove the valve cover?), and various other complications, and the 3.0l NA engine in the 128i is plenty powerful. Also consider that 1Ms are currently selling for prices usually associated with world-class Fabrege egg collections and AB- compatible kidneys - not exactly what you want in a winter car, methinks.
  20. I'm happy to find myself ahead of the curve on this one. I got mine last year (M Sport 6MT). I'll just leave this here: https://view.imirus.com/290/document/3406/page/45
  21. The 2 - as I understand it - is heavier, softer, and has no naturally aspirated engine options in this country. The 1, and specially the 128i, has pretty much the last unfussy interior (no screen), the last NA I6 engine, no silly driver assists (auto rev matching) or fake engine sounds piped through the speakers. I'm not saying it's as simple as a 2002, but it's the last car BMW made that could even be considered part of the same lineage.
  22. If after the first of the year you still haven't decided on something and you want to get eyes on my 128i to see if an E82 is an option we can probably work something out - I can't be far off your route between Albany and the city.
  23. As soon as it starts snowing I happily turn off the stability control (yes, it's more than just traction control now) in my 128i. BMW's programming on the DSC is notoriously intrusive. I was invited to an intro event for the X5 when it first came out that included a mini-autox in the snow. Trying to drive it normally led to it pushing off into the bank every time as the computers cut power when I tried to rotate the rear with the throttle. Only when I told the instructor (minder, really) that I was either turning the DSC off or I was going to get it so stuck that they'd need a crane to get it out that he relented and let me turn it off. After that it was fine. My car has an intermediate "DTC" setting that allows a little slipping and sliding before it clamps down, but it's still annoying. Four good snows and rock on. I really like Toby's 318ti suggestion - those cars are very 02-like in handling, if not appearance. I even know of a pretty solid one for sale - probably not a clean enough example for the OP, but would make a great snow/rallyx car (and don't think I'm not tempted to buy it for myself, but I just can't swing it right now).
  24. I get the rust thing, but snow? In NYC? It's not Plattsburgh or Buffalo. Put four snow tires on it and drive on. I live north of the city and have driven nothing but RWD BMWs 365 days a year for the last decade and a half at least. Not only is it doable, it's fun.
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