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02Pilot

Solex
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Everything posted by 02Pilot

  1. 02Pilot
    It's all about heat. In general terms, organics work from cold, but have less tolerance for heat; ceramics need some heat to work their best, and can tolerate heat better than organics. Ceramics last longer and will also dust less, which is are no small part of the reason they became popular, I suspect. For street driving organics are usually best, at least if stopping is your first priority for evaluating suitability. On a track or for other extended high-speed use, ceramics will generally be preferable.
  2. 02Pilot
    It's nothing without the slot mags, heart-shaped window, and mismatched half-whitewall tires. And I'm willing to bet actual money that you did not opt for the two-tone brown shag interior. Hell, you don't even have a rotating disco ball in there, do you? Fail, fail, fail....
  3. 02Pilot
    You sir have missed an opportunity: You and your family are now condemned to a life of being less awesome than you could have been.
  4. 02Pilot
    It's been a very long time, and my brain is addled beyond recognition at this point, but I seem to recall an interchange with a Saturn (L-series?) exhaust stud that had an internal hex recess on it that made installation and removal much easier. I'll certainly be trying to track them down when I have occasion to replace mine - I hate fussing with stud removers.
  5. 02Pilot
    Probably nothing, but have you confirmed consistent operating voltage at idle? EFI systems can be finicky about voltage, and if it's dropping at idle it might be affecting something down the line. Also highly unlikely, as it would probably produce much more severe symptoms, but do you have a vacuum-operated FPR? I had a diaphragm in one develop a pinhole that sent extra fuel to the intake at idle.
  6. 02Pilot
    I asked above but didn't see an answer: how are you controlling air at idle? Is there an idle control valve or some other arrangement?
  7. 02Pilot
    How is air controlled at idle? Is it via the primary venturis or do you have a separate idle control valve?
  8. 02Pilot
    If the AFR is going rich when you lift off and come to a stop, you've got some sort of fuel delivery issue. Too much fuel entering when at closed throttle and not at idle. Not saying it's the issue, but it's an issue. You shouldn't be going rich when the throttle is closed; the EFI should cut fuel when the TPS says the plates are at the idle position.
  9. 02Pilot
    Failing the brake booster that seems to be the leading contender, can you give a little more detail on how it wants to stall? Is it a rough stumble, or is it cutting out, or a smooth drop in RPM? With EFI I'm guessing you have an oxygen sensor in play - do you have an AFM? If so, what is it showing when it wants to stall?
  10. 02Pilot
    It's always nice to resolve a problem, especially an electrical one, without too much of a fight.
  11. 02Pilot
    It's almost certainly electrical. Check your wiring first, as that's the most likely cause. Also be sure the sender is grounding properly.
  12. 02Pilot
    Given that all proper drone launches are immediately preceded by the call of "Pull!" and, if all goes well, punctuated shortly thereafter by the sharp report of a 12ga. shotgun and the subsequent rapid return to the earth of said drone, I would say this is probably not the idea sort of place to see them used. But then I suppose others may view drone use rather differently than I do.
  13. 02Pilot
    Given that the original maintenance schedule for M10s included checking and, if necessary, retorquing the head bolts before every valve adjustment, I don't really think it's much of an issue unless BMW has changed the head bolts to some sort of single-use design.
  14. 02Pilot
    I'm on board with everything posted so far. Milwaukee also makes an M12 stubby impact that's good for 250 ft-lbs that's very handy. For both tools, nano impact sockets have proven surprisingly useful: https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-78314-Profile/dp/B01JBK1FHG In addition to the heat shrink crimp connectors, I've also fallen in love with heat shrink self-soldering butt connectors like these: https://www.amazon.com/Sopoby-Connectors-Electrical-Waterproof-Automotive/dp/B01DPS8DPM But the best money I've spent in a while has been on upgrading basic hand tools. I bought full sets of Wera wrenches and sockets, and it's shocking how much better they are to use than my old mostly Craftsman stuff (and that's old Made in USA Craftsman, not the modern Chinese stuff). The tilting ratchet head is especially useful. https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Zyklop-Metric-Ratchet-Piece/dp/B0024LOT6Y https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05020013001-Combination-Wrench-Set-Pieces/dp/B00BT0AYG0
  15. 02Pilot
    Oh, I agree - there are some very useful features included. The floor ignition, the corner lights that come on when you reverse, the big buttons that are easy to work with gloves on - all nice ideas. The extradimensional space under the hatch is pretty special too. It's going to take some time before I'm mentally prepared to open the hood and see that kooky backwards engine layout, though. I'm sure I'll be thankful for it the first time I need to do work on the clutch.
  16. 02Pilot
    I worked on an 1800 as a side project for a friend of a friend some time back. Not a pleasant car to work on - it's built like a 1950s truck, so everything is massive and requires brute force, except for the few irreplaceable bits, which are impossibly delicate and fragile. And 6v. I hate 6v. I still have some freshly rebuilt gauges from that project on my shelf - if anybody needs them I'll make you good deal.
  17. 02Pilot
    I will be the fly in the Swedish ointment. I just bought this: It is hands-down the strangest car I've ever owned, and one of the strangest I've ever encountered. But it was cheap and came with studded Hakkas. Just need to add some rally lights.
  18. 02Pilot
    Perhaps this will shed a bit of light on which oils still have significant zinc content. It's not as comprehensive as I might like, especially for 20w50, but this site offers the most extensive documentation of virgin oil analyses I've been able to find thus far: https://pqia.org/
  19. 02Pilot
    Tool rolls are probably the most efficient way to carry whatever you want (or think you might need). I threw this together out of duplicates, leftovers, and stuff scavenged out of various cars over the years. There's a 3/8" socket set tucked in the right side (including a plug socket), ratchet, extensions, box ends, a set of Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutters, and feeler gauges. Small plastic box has ignition components, multimeter, fuel filter, electrical tape, 100MPH tape, zip ties, crimp-on connectors, and a few various nuts, bolts, and screws. All fits on the left side of the trunk, bungee-corded in place. If I can't fix it with this, something has gone seriously awry.
  20. 02Pilot
    For normal street use the particular brand of fluid, and even the boiling points, are far less important than changing it frequently.
  21. 02Pilot
    DOT 4. Flush every couple of years and you likely won't be doing other brake work again for some time.
  22. 02Pilot
    I mentioned it in the carb dip thread a few days ago, but it's worth repeating. Simple Green Pro HD, which in spite of the name is purple (not original Simple Green, which is actually green), is safe for all metals, cheap, and easily available. Not as fast as the old toxic carb dips, but it does work. An ultrasonic is going to be faster and ultimately more thorough, but failing that this stuff is decent.
  23. 02Pilot
    I find the newer carb dips are a pale imitation of the old toxic stuff that killed brain cells just by looking at the can for too long. Last carbs I dipped I used Simple Green Pro HD (not the original stuff) - it's cheap, safe for all metals, and works at least as well as the modern carb dips.
  24. 02Pilot
    More likely, after a hearing before a people's tribunal of course, he'd be subjected to endless hours of peer counseling (i.e. public shaming), followed by an extended stay in a reeducation camp where he could learn the error of his ways through hard labor and electroshock. California über alles....
  25. 02Pilot
    Static and dynamic compression are different things. Do you have a stock cam? If not, know that a larger cam, especially one with a lot of duration and overlap, will lower static compression readings. Adding oil and seeing an increased static reading can be a little deceptive too. If you added enough oil and it was viscous enough for some to remain in the cylinder when you tested, you may have reduced the volume of the cylinder and created a false reading. If you really want to know what's going on in there, do a leakdown test. It will be much easier to control and provide more useful data. For now, as others have said, it's fine. Send it.
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