man_mark_7

Sign me up for that new Thread! I installed a 123 a few months ago and love it for my stock '73 with a 32/36 Weber. My curve is below. I picked up 3 nice Weber DCOE 40's (I know I only need two, but it's nice to have a spare!) and I'm dying to install them, but obviously need to redo cam and compression to get the most out of them.

What cam / compression setup are you running with those Weber 40(?)'s? Looks beautiful. M

Same reason I removed mine. I ended up going with carter electric. Works great.

Definitely an easy to do thing that I should check more often.

I am appalled, ashamed and embarrassed to state my findings: loose lug nuts on the left rear. Should have been the first thing I checked, but the car wasn't shimmying or anything of the sort. It also had a distinctly hard rubber feel to it. It must have been as the rim shifted from lug to lug that some of the shock was being taken up by the tire. At least Gertrude won't be off the road waiting for parts. Live & learn, with the focus on live. M

Drove ~30 miles mostly highway driving to a 4th of July bash today. Car ran and sounded great. Drove ~28 miles home and car was perfect UNTIL: pulled off the highway and slowed down to about 30 mph. Started to hear and feel a thwap, thwap, thwap almost hard rubber on metal sound. As long as I was accelerating there was no noise. As soon as as I let off the throttle I would hear the sound again. I made it home the last couple miles by slowwwwly accelerating until I hit a bit over the speed limit, rapidly braking (while hearing the noise), then sloooowly accelerating up to speed again. It's past 11 pm here so I will put the car up on stands in the morning and report what I find. I thought it would be interesting to see what everyone's guess is? I'm thinking guibo or u-joint? M

Picked up a set of 3 DCOE 40s. Two will someday go on the car. One for a spare! I think i'll end up with a 292 cam and some headers. What are opinions on whether I need to bump up compression to really notice an improvement? I'd rather defer digging into the bottom end if possible. M

Thanks for all the great info AlfaBMWGuy. The metal tabs that stick out also serve as the stops to keep the seat from reclining too far. One of my tabs broke off and that side of the seat reclined much too far, until I replace the whole seat bottom.

Are you doing this on your own, or is this @ Moment Motors?! Looks great!

I had a weird experience once, as a young hot rodder, when I added an electric fan to my '76 Camaro. As long as the fan was still spinning down, the motor kept running. I obviously had wired it into the ignition circuit and the fan was acting as a generator. M

Sorry for your loss. Was the car totaled, or will you repair? I have 2587443, which is also Agave. Mark

Not sure exactly what this is called, but it's the bottom part of the seat from my '73 base model. You can see in the picture that one of the ears that support the back of the seat has broken off. The frame may be able to be welded, but I thought I would try to find one that is less rusty before investing in this one. Thanks in advance for any leads! You can see from the pic that the driver's seat bottom will have a "bump out" on the transmission side - assuming you're not driving in the UK!! Of course I'd be interested in a whole seat that's in good condition too, but I thought just a seat bottom without the padding might be a lot easier to ship. Regards, Mark

Very interested in the electric future - who/what are you watching for inspiration? Have you found any kits that help convert a 2002 from ICE to electric? M