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    Lexington, MA USA

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  1. I have one. The black portion of the face and the numbers are in good condition. The center silver dollar portion has spotty rust. Make an offer if you are interested.
  2. Yeah, this has me puzzled too. If it's not pulling vacuum on both rear cylinders then it's not the vacuum tap that's causing the issue.
  3. I just got a pair of B8's from Jaymic. They are out of stock everywhere in the US. You might try them for B6s.
  4. How do you ID an "early" rail? I have some extras that fit my '73. mm
  5. I was recently told by Keith Frank on the Weber Side Draft [email protected] group that the two screws adjacent to the cold start block off plate in your photo are indeed vacuum takeoffs. I just received a Carbtune that comes with the 4 ports that thread into these 5mm holes to connect to the Carbtune. I was surprised to discover the vacuum ports existed as I have read nearly everywhere "DCOEs don't have vacuum takeoff ports". Apparently (someone please correct me if I'm wrong) if your carbs have the air flow mix screws they will also have these vacuum takeoff ports. Some people have used them as a takeoff for vacuum distributor advance.
  6. Very nice! Are there any other mods to the motor? Where did you end up for jetting? I recently installed DCOE 40s on my otherwise stock (except for IE header and stainless exhaust) '73. I have been going back and forth between 50f8 and 55f8 idle jets. Here's where I am now. I still run richer than I'd like throughout the RPM range though.
  7. Oh right - you said Korman in the first line of your post if I had paid attention. They look remarkably similar. On the IE manifold the ports don't connect with each other. I can't imagine that they would connect on the Korman either so i don't know why both of your rear cylinders would be pulling less. If the vacuum leak is from the brake booster line only the very rearmost cylinder should be showing less vacuum.
  8. I have to say, I just installed the IE manifold w/ my DCOE 40s and was very puzzled by the way this fitting didn't want to fit very well. I was worried it was going to bottom out and not seal. My solution was a 2" long 1/4 NPT male-male extension into a T. I was able to thread it in until it seated quite firmly. I actually emailed IE who initially told me the fitting was 1/4 NPT, then emailed back saying it was actually 3/8 NPT. It is in fact 1/4 NPT (I think). I'm wondering if there were some issues w/ tapping @ IE. I also preferred the way the T allowed me to point the vacuum line at the brake booster versus straight back at the firewall. Good luck. Let us know how things turn out.
  9. Interesting. I'm not a body so I'm curious about epoxy coating before finishing the metal repair. Will it get re-epoxy-coated once body repair is complete?
  10. I have just made sure my aux venturis are securely held in by the screw & lock nut w/ my dual pancake filter setup and I haven't had any issues with them coming loose.
  11. Was his name Steve Sidwell by any chance? This is what a Google of "Eurokitsch" turned up: https://www.discogs.com/Steve-Sidwell-Eurokitsch/release/10989800 Good luck.
  12. Maybe the moderators can access an email for eurokitsch and, in these extremely important circumstances, reach out to them off the forum?
  13. I slapped this rig together rather quickly. I needed to get the car inspected before the end of Dec. and had to squeeze in the inspection between snowstorms with salt on the roads! Too much going on in this small area. I need to fix the fuel line / heater hose contact but for now it's streetable. Pic of coupling in heater plenum (with way too long hose clamps) follows.
  14. True - that's why I ended up installing and flaring new line. I considered just scoring some deep grooves into the existing line w/ a dremel, but ended up replacing the whole line.
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