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02Pilot

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  1. 02Pilot
    Lots of variables to consider: displacement, cam profile, rev limit, and desired RPM for peak power, to name a few. As noted, 40 DCOEs use venturis in the throats to dial in air flow. They are easily tuned for a wide variety of engines and usages. The big advantage of sidedrafts is that the air flow path is short and direct, both ideal when you want high RPM peak power. Far better IMO to use two sidedraft carbs with smaller venturis than one with an intake that significantly reduces the advantage of that direct path into the cylinders.
  2. 02Pilot
    This. If the condition of the water pump is unknown I'd suggest you simply replace it.
  3. 02Pilot
    I can't speak for "some guys," but it works better than anything I've ever used, and I've used a few things over the years. Maybe their stuff wasn't sufficiently rusted.
  4. 02Pilot
    Alternatively, try soaking it in what's sometimes known as weasel piss: 50% ATF, 50% acetone. Greatest penetrating fluid I've ever encountered.
  5. 02Pilot
    Well, as long as it's a decent 20w50 you should be OK on that count. "With added zinc" suggests it's either one of the motorcycle or racing oils, or perhaps the Lubro-Moly Classic 20w50. FWIW, I use the latter, and noticed immediately that oil pressures were up ~0.5bar from the previous 20w50 (what it was escapes me at the moment).
  6. 02Pilot
    If we're talking about a viscosity range in which the upper limit is 125% of the lower limit, I feel that's a bit beyond splitting hairs. Maintaining that viscosity over time, of course, is very important. But in the context of oil pressure when hot, it is a point of secondary interest unless the OP's oil has a significant amount of mileage on it and is of a sort that has allowed degradation out of grade over that time. Hopefully he will add that information to the discussion.
  7. 02Pilot
    So an SAE 50 that's 16cSt@100C is the same as one that's 20cSt@100C? My point was that there's a range - as you indicated - that means that, within a given grade, actual viscosity may vary.
  8. 02Pilot
    It is heat-related. Spec is 4bar (57psi) @ 4k RPM. If you're not getting to spec, there may be an issue (more likely wear in the reciprocating parts than the oil pump), but if you drive somewhat carefully you're not likely to do any real damage. Also, not all 20w50 (or any grade, for that matter) are the same in terms of actual viscosity. Changing to a heavier-in-grade oil may see some increase in operating pressure.
  9. 02Pilot
    That place gets packed in the summer, at least the times I've driven by it; September might be a little better. Nonetheless, if you want to plan a meet there people should think about getting in early, as the lot around DD is fairly small.
  10. 02Pilot
    Drill a small hole in the lower portion of the tube, apply compressed air, weld up hole. Then clean the inside of the tube with a stiff wire brush so this doesn't happen again.
  11. 02Pilot
    That cone filter is tiny. Dump it. Doesn't the Alpina box have provision for an internal filter? That's the best option, but if you insist on a cone filter go as big as you have room for.
  12. 02Pilot
    It's an interesting thought for sure. I'd like to hear more about the particulars of the issues you had with your M20 adaptation in order to better understand what else would need modifying to make it work with an M10.
  13. 02Pilot
    I refuse to own something called a "tweel" on general principle.
  14. 02Pilot
    Yeah, there's a lot more to crankcase ventilation than just adding a vent. You need to consider where you're drawing your vacuum from (pre-throttle plate/post-throttle plate/exhaust), whether you're planning to seal the crankcase or create a draw-through system, and what your target crankcase vacuum is going to be under specific operating conditions. If you go to a sealed crankcase with a high target vacuum, I suggest you give some consideration to the transition between on- and off-throttle conditions; you generally don't want it to slam up and down. Personally, I have found that I prefer high vacuum setups in engines that can handle them, but if you have significant blow-by this won't work well. In a race motor, it may be hard to properly vent the motor fully, as you will have limited time at closed and light throttle conditions, and big cams are lousy for producing vacuum; I'm certain this is why you've seen lots of race motors with extra venting provisions. But it's hardly the only thing to consider. For anyone interested in the inner workings of crankcase venting (albeit in a more modern application), look up the "02Pilot Mod" for M54 engines - I developed it after extensive research as documented in this Bimmerforums thread.
  15. 02Pilot
    Do you have a problem, or are you to to anticipate one and deal with it preemptively? If it's the latter, given how easy it will be to add an additional vent later (pulling the cam cover and upper timing cover is minutes of work), I'd send it and wait to see if it's an issue.
  16. 02Pilot
    Octane is just a measure of the fuel's resistance to ignition. Higher ratings are less prone to ignition, which sounds like a bad thing but isn't once you consider all the things that might cause it to ignite other than the spark plugs. Pre-ignition is bad, and higher compression, high operating temps, and hot spots in the cylinder can cause it. Modern EFI systems will adapt to basically whatever you pump in; I've run my 128i on everything from 87 to 94 and it's fine. Engines without the capability to manage these variations simply require that you figure out what they need to operate properly under a given set of conditions, or you can just pump in high octane fuel and call it done. GRM recently ran a piece wherein a petrochemical engineer (IIRC) noted that high octane fuels have greater stability and higher additive concentrations, making them more suitable for long-term storage. While not a primary consideration, this is something to be aware of if you store a car for longer periods.
  17. 02Pilot
    Not that it's the easiest way to do it, but I've put my large frame Bianchi road bike in the trunk with both wheels removed, and that's with the TEP rear stress bar/battery relocation in place.
  18. 02Pilot
    You need the whole system flowing to make sure there's no air in there. Open the valve to the heater core, elevate the nose as much as you can, and bleed. It may take a few iterations, but it will bleed. These cooling systems are pretty simple compared with modern ones, which are often a real pain.
  19. 02Pilot
    Do you mean these tires in particular, or are you generalizing?
  20. 02Pilot
    You may have multiple issues. First thing I would do is try to localize the problem with a mechanic's stethoscope. If that doesn't produce a clear diagnosis, go over the top end. Look at the valvetrain first. Inspect everything closely, then adjust the valves to proper spec. Next, pull the spark plugs, inspect them, gap as necessary, then reinstall. Gap the points and set the timing. Now check the eight nuts holding the header in place - loose nuts here can lead to exhaust leaks. If you have the tools, compression and leakdown tests would be a good idea. Now start the engine. Any change? If not, your problem may indeed be deeper in the engine. But it makes sense to check the easier-to-access bits first.
  21. 02Pilot
    I'm curious about those Barum tires shown above. As I understand it, Barum is owned by Continental, so it's theoretically not as sketchy as some Chinese producer that no one had heard of five years ago. Has anyone actually used them?
  22. 02Pilot
    Heat plus impact should take those out faster than you expect. Make sure the hole is clean and as Toby said, use a good bit.
  23. 02Pilot
    Mine's a 900S (16v NA). Turbos are fun, but also can be considerably more troublesome. I wanted to stick to simple.
  24. 02Pilot
    Parts for my Saab C900 have been surprisingly cheap for the most part. Sure, there's a fair bit that's NLA, but what's out there is quite reasonable. Of course, you need to be a little sick in the head to actually want a Saab.
  25. 02Pilot
    Yeah, the stock front brakes are pretty inadequate for any sort of demanding driving. Relative to the drum-braked behemoths surrounding them in the early 70s I'm sure they were considered more than acceptable, but today's traffic is playing by different rules. If you're having trouble with heat building up and don't intend to go the full upgrade route to larger vented rotors, ducting may be a quick and dirty option. But as Einspritz noted, there are certainly specific pads that will likely offer improved performance (albeit at a price).
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