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  1. I had another one from a previous build and the threads were better on that one. I was able to get it bolted on with (barely) enough threads engaged. That combined with some red loctite should hold until I can find a better solution. The adapter is by Glow Shift. What's nice about it is it had the oil-cooler line outlets as well as two ports for my oil temp and pressure senders. I talked to Glow Shift's tech department and they do not have a longer "through-bolt" (gold in the first image below). I'm going to see if I can buy a longer one from another manufacturer. Last-case scenario is to check with a local machine shop and see what it would cost to machine off half of the hex flange or make me another to my specs. The second pic shows my setup.
  2. The nipple/through-bolt is a separate piece so, theoretically the sandwich plate could be reversible. However, the surfaces are different. The top has a groove-set gasket to seal to the housing, the bottom is smooth to mate with the filter gasket.
  3. Does anyone know if the threaded nipple on the oil filter housing is removable/replaceable? If so, is it 3/4"-16 thread where is screws into the housing? I need a longer one to install a sandwich plate. I'm not getting enough threads engaged.
  4. Does the E30 driveshaft still need to be shortened? Would I need the front section, rear section or both?
  5. I've searched for the last 45 minutes but can not find the answer. Will the 4-bolt flange from my '76 stock 4-speed bolt onto a Getrag 240? Is this the preferred route to install the 240 since I have a spare 2002 driveshaft that I can shorten. TIA
  6. That's great news. Why? I've been paying attention to the race 2002s I've seen in the last 2 years and many (most?) had added some additional venting. Just looking for some input and feedback.
  7. Yes, I'll use a 90* bend up to the hose coming from the OEM vent and then to the catch can. If I get too much oil in the can I will re-think.
  8. I found a partial solution to the issue - a fuel pump block-off with a breather fitting. It's a VW part but should fit the head. I'll combine this with the OEM breather, plumb to the catch can and see how it goes.
  9. Yes, preemptive. Getting ready to run the catch can plumbing and rather than reinvent the wheel I thought I'd check and see if thee was a proven solution.
  10. Thanks for the responses. The dipstick idea is a good one, but It'd be a hassle to disconnect every time you check the oil. As far as staying with the OEM breather on the valve cover, I read somewhere on here, while researching this, that a race engine vents quite a bit of oil through that location at high RPM. Does the timing chain throw a lot of oil? It seems like there would be less oil mist in behind the timing covers than the valve/cam space, hence my thought about adding a vent to the upper cover.
  11. I suspect this has been covered before, but much searching has yielded nothing for me. For those of you that have added venting to the engine, what did you do? I do not weld aluminum, so I have considered a bolt-through -AN fitting on the valve cover but I worry that without a baffle of some sort it will pull too much oil. I've also considered the same setup on the upper timing cover (to get it away from the cam/rocker spray). Does anyone have a functional solution that does not involve welding aluminum? TIA
  12. Yeah, just tried bending mine and it worked, thanks.
  13. I bought the cable linkage kit from Redline with the idea I would utilize the linkage that connected the two carb throttle shafts in the center. However, when I mocked it up the tab on the actuator of the left carb is not long enough to properly interface with the sync adjuster on the right carb. Does anyone have a solution for this? Is there an actuator with a longer tab to accommodate the 2002 carb spacing?
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