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02Pilot

Solex
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Everything posted by 02Pilot

  1. It's not really any more problematic than any other modern BMW engine. You just have to be aware of the weak points and address them. I ran mine out to 200k, and buddy took it up over 225k before he sold it. That said, just rebuild your M10 and dial back the boost. Or better yet, build a NA screamer.
  2. If it were me, at a minimum I'd replace every seal, including the valve guide seals and the VANOS seals, starter, lower coolant tubes (along the block under the intake), CCV system, and clutch no matter what. Age is a factor as well as mileage, and BMW rubber seals are not known for their longevity. As to the rings, well, as noted a leakdown test might help you decide whether it's worth the cost and effort. They don't wear out, they break, so it's not just a matter of mileage. Again, the M54 would not be my first choice. Frankly, I'm not a fan of engine swaps in these cars period, but that's just me. No matter what you do with the M54, just be aware of its weaknesses.
  3. You don't. In the course of developing a mod/hack for the oil consumption issue, I pulled mine at least half a dozen times. I got to where I could do it by feel in 45 minutes. Air filter housing and elbow, junction box, throttle body, and out. It's a lousy system, though at least they came up with an updated the dipstick guide tube to one that doesn't instantly clog the CCV drain with emulsion, letting it back up into the valve. If you run a search for "02Pilot mod" you'll find the CCV hack I came up with. Started in a thread on Bimmerforums, but it's repeated elsewhere.
  4. M54 would not be my first choice for a few reasons, but since you have it already I assume that's what you're going to use. I strongly suggest you tear the engine down and replace the rings before you install it. The M54 uses low-tension rings which are problematic and can lead to very significant oil consumption. I believe the fix is to use M52 rings, but you should look further into it before proceeding. Be careful with the head bolts, which like to break off in the aluminum block. If head bolt threads are damaged a Time-Sert is the only thing that works to repair the hole. Once you've got it apart, you're basically doing a full rebuild, but you don't want to go to the trouble of having the thing pouring blue smoke once you start it up. If you decide not to do any of this, I can at least point to you a simple mod I developed that will mitigate the oil consumption.
  5. Pull the crankcase vent line off the valve cover before you proceed (assuming you've replaced the oil filler cap). After that, I'll add my vote for crank it over and see what happens. If something significant broke you'll know quickly.
  6. A chain is only as good as its weakest link. By rebuilding the cylinder head you improved sealing of the combustion chamber, and thus increased vacuum therein under closed throttle conditions. The increased vacuum will exacerbate any leakage past the rings due to the pressure differential between the crankcase and the combustion chamber under deceleration. If you can increase crankcase vacuum by introducing a post-throttle plate vacuum source (not so easy on the carbureted M10), you will reduce your oil consumption.
  7. Graham at Bimmers Only, Bedford Hills, NY. Been dealing with 02s for more than the 25 years since I bought my first one from him.
  8. I am certainly to blame for offending Finnish sensibilities. I've heard both Swedish and Scandinavian used in this context; I tend to default to the shorter because I'm fundamentally lazy.
  9. There are probably better examples, but watch the Saab 96 at 6:36 in this video to see an instance of the Swedish flick I mentioned, the whole point of which is to unsettle the rear end before turning in. Note how the car rolls a bit, and the rapid back-and-forth of the front wheels before entering the corner.
  10. I'm no expert, but I've been fooling around with a Saab 900 for the last year or so, and I've started to wrap my head around going quickly in it. In a nutshell, in FWD you steer the rear axle with the brakes. With RWD you're able to balance with the throttle in the corner to get the car pointed; with FWD, it's more about balancing with the brakes while using the throttle to pull the car through. For me, it usually boils down to pitching the car in to get the rear end moving (the Swedish flick is a real thing), getting into the throttle early, and hauling the car through (with left foot or handbrake as necessary, surface-dependent). It's very different than my autox experience in BMWs, but it can be quite entertaining, especially on loose surfaces.
  11. Oh, I know. I've been driving that road several times a week for more decades than I care to relate. Trooper barracks located right near the road in several places make it easy for them.
  12. Spotted a nice burgundy squarelight on the southbound Taconic just north of Rt.82. Whoever it was honked and waved at me - I was in my 900S. Was it one you you guys?
  13. Dorman 03411: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-03411-Exhaust-Manifold-Stud/dp/B0063RHGFG
  14. I used it. The rear is nice and simple, no complaints. The front uses undersize box tubing and much smaller than stock bolts for whatever reason, which I'm not crazy about. I would like it better if it was a snug slip fit into the stock box section and used the stock bumper bolts. It's a good setup, a little pricey for what it is IMO (but I don't know what the costs are, so that's purely subjective), but definitely easy.
  15. +5 horsepower. +10 if it's red. Prove me wrong.
  16. Any chance you have a part number for these? I've got a head stripped down with good old-style guides, and I'd be much happier doing seals than guides.
  17. I've wondered about those. I'm thinking about going back to 13" tires after many years on 15s, and those seemed like they might be a decent option.
  18. Yes and yes. No point trying to diagnose and tune without a proper baseline.
  19. Assuming your E46 has an M54 in it, I may be able to help you significantly reduce your oil consumption with a simple mod I developed when I had my E39. PM me for details, or just Google "02Pilot Mod" and you'll find plenty of info.
  20. Check float levels in the carbs. I'm guessing they're too high. Also possible you've got too much fuel pressure. Still sounds to me like you may have a timing issue as well, but check the fuel supply first.
  21. Excellent. Can you make me a set of six for my dining room? And a guillotine to slice the standing rib roast?
  22. There are a couple of ways to do it, but keep it simple. Fused main power (30) and ground (85) direct to the relay. Switching power (86) from the pigtail, through the switch, to the relay, so as to minimize the current through the switch. Power out to the lights (87).
  23. The chart ONLY applies to individual runner carbs, for the reasons others have mentioned above. Carbs that feed a common plenum before the runners are not the same. Note also that the RPM shown is the power peak, not the rev limit. Unless you're building a race engine, you probably don't want 38mm venturis, as this will significantly reduce driveability at lower engine speeds.
  24. There's a chart in Pat Braden's Weber book that at least gives a starting point. It will vary somewhat depending on the application, but it's at least a rough guide. FWIW, I've run 32 and 34mm venturis on the street, and I've driven cars with 30 and 36mm. They can all work, but have very different characteristics at the extremes. For bike carbs with fixed venturis I suspect you'd just have to do some experimenting to find the best arrangement.
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